Mascarello's By The Number

Matt Stamp had originally joined my tasting group and wrote an article where we compared Giuseppe Mascarello Monprivato to Bartolo Mascarello Barolo with laboratory data. That article can be found here: Mascarello vs. Mascarello Since that original tasting we have done two more verticals of Monprivato and B. Mascarello.  I had put the results of the second tasting in the comment section of Matt's article.  Here are the results from all three tastings we did in one chart for each winery.

 

  

  • Directed here by the Chablis post. Really interesting to see the numbers here. The chemistry all looks fairly similar, but the phenolics look like the deciding factor for me. I always consider Bartolo being the more erratic performer, but reaching greater heights than Giuseppe. Bartolo really extracts a ton more from his fruit. I feel like that is the key here. In order to do that, Bartolo gambles on the longer and wilder fermentation-just speculating here. This chart shows his wines having more VA, more abv and less FSO2. I feel like this really speaks to Giuseppe's consistency and Bartolo's sometimes unpredictable greatness. Love the proof in the numbers. Thanks Jason, exciting to have the opportunity to look at wines like this.

  • In reply to Jonathan Ross:

    Hey, Jonathan.

    One other thing about extraction of phenolics (i.e. color and tannins) is alcohol. The higher the potential alcohol and the longer you leave the alcohol in contact with the must (skins and seeds) the more you will extract. You will be surprised with just a couple more points (+0.2-0.3 ABV) and a couple more days on the skins how you will change the character of the wine - and as you note, expose your self to more potential volatility.

    Also, regarding your comments about being erratic; my theory is that Maria-Teresa was more erratic during the transition, if you look at the chemistry (and the wines themselves) post-2004 (when Bartolo passed), the wines are higher in alcohol, hold more residual sugar, more VA. I think that M-T is just now finding her grove and and we will start to see better and better and more consistent wines. The one issue we can tackle in another post is climate change in Piemonte. In the last 20 years, only two really bad vintages ('02-'03) ?!?