So I did a thing at a late night La Paulée after party...
A lot of us, especially Sommeliers who have decided to focus their studies and career on the wines of Burgundy, talk about the need to put boots on the ground in the region but few of us ever do.
Now I've made plenty of questionable decisions in my life, I did once single handedly try and bring disco back in 2003, and that night I made a decision that turned out to be only slightly less out there. I cornered one of the best winemakers of our generation Pierre Yves Colin, who (in full disclosure I've known PY for a few years now) allowed me to not only drunkenly accost him all full of 60's Taragona Chartreuse and wide-eyed enthusiasm, but is allowing me to come and live and work with him in Burgundy for the 2018 harvest at Domaine Pierre Yves Colin-Morey.
I reached out to Geoff Kruth about the best way to document this and provide the community with a direct line to Burgundy as well as hopefully some inside information on the 2018 harvest and Burgundy in general.
I'm going to try and check in at least 1-2 times a week with updates and to answer questions. There will be a lot to see on my instagram instagram.com/maxcoane, I promise it won't just be ridiculous bottle shots and food pics.
Let me know what questions you guys have for PY and I'll do my best to get them answered.
Just would hope to know perspective on variation of fruit quality depending on site (lieu-dit, village, Premier Cru, Grand Cru)...evenness of cluster in ripening and if full maturation is achieved for each wine. Any insight would be great to understand this vintage.
So excited for you and this truly inspiring experience. Cheers.
When I see anything other than village and Chassagne lieu dit I’ll have some comparison. I didn’t take many pictures on the triage line because the pace is fact and you don’t want th old French ladies clucking at you. I’ll get some comparison shots today
So I can give a more nuanced answer now having had my hands on all the fruit from hautes cotes all the way up to the grand cru.
The basic difference is in ripeness obviously but also purity of flavor of the juice. The GC’s are generally the oldest vines so they give the best fruit. The Santenay VV 100 year old Pinot from PY was maybe the nicest Pinot I’ve ever seen but we don’t have any GC reds.
The other difference is quality. This is an incredible vintage for Côte de Beaune wines. In the GC’s I think we had a few bunches in the trash but not a lot. Mostly removing leaves. In the lesser St. Aubin stuff and HCB you are all sorts of things from millerands to botrytis and sun strike as well. Absolutely none of that in the better 1er and GC but it was there in the Bourgogne as well. We sort it out by It’s a tiny percentage less than 5% of the overall fruit gets tossed out because the terroir is that good