Was this comment meant to appease a specific group of people at a Sauv Blanc Convention or is he trying to start a revolution?
I guess I understand some of what he's saying about generalizations not necessarily matching people and specific dishes, but then he goes off topics and starts talking about arrogant categorization, so I'm having trouble following his entire argument. Having spent hours finding the best pairing for a dish at times, I think I can comfortably say I disagree with this type of sentiment.
It also seems he wants more same-ness. The Riesling argument at the end of the article blows my little brain to shreds. I enjoy the diversity that grapes and regions can offer.
I'm also having difficulty with that argument. Yes, to an extent there are no "food and wine pairings" exclusive to France, or Italy, or Spain for that matter, but if you look at the wine they produce in a specific area, and then look at the food that is produced in the same area, there is something to be said about those "Pairings" If you are in Alsace and ordering any local specialties at a restaurant, say any pork dishes like Choucroute Alascienne, or one of their lovely savory tarts, the wines that are made there represent a traditional pairing. If I'm in Alsace and ordering these dishes, I'm not looking for Cote Rotie or Super Tuscan bottle. So to flat out say there is literally no wine pairing happening there I feel is absurd. The food and wine by their very nature are a Pairing. Same goes with Italy and Spain, and any regions with a long, long growing history. I'm not visiting Sicily and while eating locally caught and prepared seafood ordering a wine from Alsace.
Some foods and wines just pair together much, much better than others. If a guest wants a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc with a steak, I'm not going to say no. But do I think that there is something better to enhance the experience for the guest, absolutely.
"Cheval Blanc used to be sweet so pair Cab Sauv with Oysters"- paraphrased
Also kicking us somms while we're down with that random unrelated Riesling jab. Is he just trolling us?
Although something I can wholeheartedly stand behind is the idea with pairing wine to the guest first, to the food second. Over half of my guests feel self conscious about drinking the wine they want because they think it's technically wrong. That's a bummer. Also this article is absurdly short and disjointed. Maybe we should look further into his larger message. I'm suspicious of most publications after recent events. This reeks of clickbait.
The article is not put together very well :/ It seems more like a few angry statements vomited onto a page to ruffle feathers rather than a piece defending/ presenting any cohesive opinion or statement- regardless of the validity of said opinions. Being an MW and coming from an educational path of writing endless amounts of essays I would think that there would simply be more content to back up this very bold statement... but then there's just more eyebrow-raising statements bringing up entirely different conversations... I would like to hear more supporting statements on why he has reached this conclusion. Although I can assure you that no amount of opinion on this matter will ever take away my love for my favorite wine and food pairings... so there's that.
I agree that the consumer shouldn’t have to feel any extra stress or pressure when making the difficult decision on what wine to buy and what food to buy. But, I also feel that wine pairing is one of my favorite parts about wine. Taking the time to try something classic or taking the time and doing research and finding your own, that can make your experience not two times better but 10x 100x better. I also think that’s what keeps many people interested in wine, even the casual drinkers, cause everyone has a wine pairing story of their favorite wine whether it is paired with their favorite dish, vacation spot or group of friends.
I watched his video on this awhile ago. It's more in depth, about peoples' different physiological reactions to different taste sensations. Like, some people get pleasure from heightened spiciness so telling someone they can't have a tannic wine with a curry is taking away from their pleasure. If you drank pickle juice as a child you likely prefer high acid wines because you are ultra sensitive to bitterness. So it really is about matching the wine to the person and not necessarily the food.
There is no Hanni revolution coming... People can drink what they like with whatever food they wish. I was going to personally ban him from enjoying food and wine together but forgot that he is an MW who has been SOBER for over 2 decades. What do you do when you are an MW who doesn't drink??? You write a piece called: Food & Wine Pairings are Bullshit. Honestly, I feel bad for the guy. Can you imagine becoming a world famous wine professional and then choosing to give up what has made you an expert. He has clearly forgotten what makes for a great experience on the palate.
I think that's the point really stood out for me Anthony. I very much understand Tim's reasons for not drinking and they're something everyone in hospitality should take heed of. But, if you're not drinking wine with the food you're eating, it's impossible to really make such a statement. The only way I found out that Carignan and blue cheese are horrible together is the same way I found out that Fino and nearly everything are great together; pairing food with wine.
Miquel, did we just become best friends? Let's stop talking about Tim and go drink some sherry!
This conversation has been fermenting in my mind the past few days, but I've finally had a chance to sit down and put down some coherent thoughts. This Forbes article does a great job of expanding on some of the concepts that Hanni is talking about.
The article is a small selection of quotations that are taken out of context but I can personally attest to the fact that there are TERRIBLE food and wine pairings, such as Amarone and king crab, that will scar you for life.
Thank you Anthony for having the balls to call out this ridiculous article and publicly state
the facts. I want to drink some Fino with you and Miguel.
Special K! I am writing an article to post on our website, soon. Stay Tuned!
While I can't find any more context in regards to what was actually said in the full presentation, it does sound like it was a much longer presentation and the article in question literally took one line from it out of context and wrote a full article. I'm not sure our problem here really lies with Tim Hanni or with bad reporting/ misquoting? His words for it in the podcast above were that the reporter took one line out of context from a 90 minute presentation and ran with it.
If you listen to or read much of his work on the subject, yes he does say most of it is BS, but for very different reasons than are discussed in the article. Not saying he's right or wrong but the article is a serious misrepresentation and I think it's important to understand that.