Merci beaucoup Jeremy Eubanks, Joe Billesbach and CHRISTOPHER WILLIAMS for the Bolli breakdown last week.
This week: Climats of Montmains
What are they, what are the differences and who makes which one?
There are three 1er Cru vineyards in Chablis that can claim to the name Montmains on a bottle. Montmains itself, plus the neighboring plots of Butteaux and Forets (both Premier Cru vineyards in their own right, but allowed to use the name of the more famous Montmains). Like most of the right bank vineyards, Montmains is all southeast facing with very shallow kimmeridgian soils. Of the three, Forets has the shallowest, rockiest soil. Butteaux is the farthest west, with Forets sandwiched in the middle and Montmains sitting on the eastern side of the trio. Forets is sometimes described as the most mineral driven of the three, with Montmains being the most overall concentrated (if it is truly Montmains and not a blend of the three climats). One of the best studies of Montmains comes from Louis Michel, who produces a two Montmains (one old vine), a Butteaux, and a Forets. The house style is so pure that each shows the individual character. On the other side of the stylistic universe is Francois Raveneau, who also produces a Forets, Butteaux, and Montmains. A side by side tasting of their 7 Montmains wines from the same vintage would be an incredible experience in understanding these climats. I'd love to try that some day!Other top producers of Montmains: (not going to list them...pretty much throw a dart at a top Chablis producer that you love, or even one you hate...)Forets: Dauvissat-Camus, Patrick Puize, Moreau, Collet, and ServinButteaux: Jean Marc Brocard, Collet and Servin.