Pisco. Two countries lay claim to it. One claims exclusive rights to the name. But as that country’s biggest competitor is also its biggest customer, everything gets a little more complicated...
I moved to Santiago, Chile in early 2015 and got curious about an old battle between Chile and Peru over a brandy made in the driest desert in the world, on both sides of the border, before the border even existed. What differentiates the two? Why is Peru entitled to a geographic designation in European markets while Chile is not? While the differences in the specific regulations and production processes are plentiful, it's in the meaning of the drink itself where the distinctions are sharpest. For Peru, Pisco is a symbol of national pride; for Chile, it is a national drink. Maybe this is best expressed in the way each country prefers to drink it. In Peru, the traditional drink is a Pisco Sour: a combination of Pisco Puro or Pisco Acholado, the juice of limón de pica (a small citrus fruit similar to a key lime), egg white, and simple syrup. The ingredients are shaken with ice and served with a few dashes of Angostura bitters. Chile has its own version of the Pisco Sour—sans bitters and egg white and typically served in a flute—but the most common way to drink it here is in a Piscola, which is exactly what it sounds like: Pisco + Coke.
Chilean producers are seeking the right to share the use of the name Pisco as a denomination of origin in the European Union, but Peruvian producers insist they should have exclusive rights to the name as the originators of the spirit. History shows they have a good argument.
Origins
After conquering the Aztec and Inca empires in the 1500s, the Spanish established the Viceroyalty of Peru, which spanned the west coast of South America from Panama to the Tierra del Fuego. Missionaries brought Vitis vinfera to the region early on to produce sacramental wines. As it was expensive to bring wine from Spain (and it was usually spoiled by the time it arrived anyway) the Viceroyalty’s administrators looked for suitable areas for vineyards near Lima and further south near Arequipa and Moquegua to meet the increasing demand for wine in the region, especially among the growing population of miners in Bolivia’s massive silver mine at Potosí. A similar set of circumstances were in place further south in the Captaincy of Chile, near Concepción. Wine production in the region expanded rapidly after 1555 to meet the constant demand for drink among Spanish soldiers and gold and copper miners.
By the end of the 16th century, Arequipa and Moquegua were producing some 80 million liters of wine a year—more than any other region in the Viceroyalty. This did not sit well back in Spain. In 1595 King Philip II attempted to protect the Spanish wine industry by banning plantings of any new commercial vineyards in the colonies. Unsurprisingly, the law was ignored. The distance and isolation made it impossible for Spain to enforce any of its directives, and the local administrators were reluctant to limit such an important part of their economy.
In February 1600, however, nature stepped in to help the monarchy out as the Huaynaputina volcano near Moquegua erupted in one of the largest explosions in history. Ultimately the disaster pushed Peru’s wine production further northwest to regions that would become Pisco, Ica and Nazca. It would be many years before Arequipa and Moquegua would begin to rebuild their industries, and they would never again match their pre-1600 volume. Meanwhile, Spain continued to subject the Peruvian wine trade to additional taxes and restricted its exports of wine completely in 1641, leading many to turn to distillation. An Ica landowner's will from 1613 mentions jars of "Pisco," and by the mid-17th century Peru's distilled wines from the Ica region had become a valuable commodity. And producers of wine and brandy in the Peruvian town of Pisco, established in 1640, were not deterred by the 1641 ban on exports thanks to its close proximity to the wealthy capitol of Lima and the rich mining industry in Potosí.
The rise of the sugar-cane industry in South America and the eventual desire for rum created new markets for a cheaper spirit with a short production time that could retain its quality after long voyages. The vineyard owners of southern Peru and Coquimbo in northern Chile found that shifting to grape brandy production thus allowed them to access to new markets across South America and to circumvent Spanish taxes on wine.
In 1684, Juan Facundo Caravedo Roque established Hacienda La Caravedo in Ica to produce both wine and brandy. (It has been under the ownership of Pisco Portón since 2009, and it is one of the longest continuously operating distilleries in the Americas.) But just three years later a massive earthquake destroyed the vineyard areas around Pisco and Ica.The earthquake was a turning point for the Peruvian wine industry—a huge amount of stock was lost as most clay storage containers were destroyed, and the resulting tsunami washed away the local shipping port. With no way to ship what little wine was left on hand, producers in the area distilled what they could. Ultimately Chilean producers of wine and grape brandy stepped into the gap and gained a foothold and a good reputation with international trade partners.
Wine remained one of Peru’s major exports for a time, but the aftermath of the 1687 earthquake, punitive taxes, and internal upheavals all took a toll on local production. Vineyards were steadily converted to other fruits or sold and consolidated. And Jesuit missionaries—who were major landowners in Peru—were expelled from the Viceroyalty by a Spanish king fearful of their rising political influence. Many of the Jesuits’ prime vineyards were sold to farmers eager for the profits distilled spirits could bring. By the 1760s, the majority of grapes grown in Peru were being turned into grape brandy.
The 19th century brought massive changes to both countries when they both gained their independence from Spain—Chile in 1818 and Peru in 1824. By the 1820s, Chile’s wine and brandy production was steadily increasing, thanks to strong partnerships with Europe and growing local wealth from mining. Chile’s wine and brandy industry evolved and modernized quickly. Wealthy estate owners adopted French grape varieties and winemaking techniques, and the quality of wines from Chile's Central Valley improved significantly. Brandy from northern Chile found strong markets abroad. In 1877 a Chilean grape brandy bearing the name Pisco was exported to Europe; five years later a Chilean Pisco won an award at the Bordeaux Exposition.
Within the same period, Peru’s industry went in a different direction. Massive earthquakes in 1868 and 1877 killed many and destroyed a vast area from Arequipa to Iquique (now part of northern Chile). And farmers were starting to replace vineyards with more lucrative crops such as cotton and corn. The War of the Pacific (1879-1883) brought Chile to blows with Bolivia and Peru over a mining tax, and Chile emerged as victor, further straining the Peruvian Pisco industry. The arrival of phylloxera in Peru in 1888 dealt a final blow, while Chile’s geographic isolation saved it from the blight.
In 1931, the President of Chile designated Coquimbo and Atacama as denominations of origin for Pisco production, with six production zones. The region of Atacama includes the areas of Copiapó, Huasco, and St. Felix (within Huasco ), while Coquimbo encompasses the valleys of Elqui, Limarí and Choapa. At the time, the center for Pisco production in Coquimbo was the town of La Union. To support the denomination of origin, the President changed its name in 1936 to Pisco Elqui.
Sixty years later—in 1991—Peru finally set up their own Pisco denomination of origin for the regions of Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua and Tacna. And in 2013, the European Union recognized Peru as the birthplace for Pisco. While Chile is not barred from selling "pisco" in Europe, the decision leaves the Chileans without any claim to geographical origin. History and rivalry aside, for Peruvians the designation is a show of support for their very clearly defined articles regulating the production process.
Varieties
Peruvian Pisco can be made from a short list of black and white grapes. There are four aromatic varieties—Italia, Albilla, Moscatel and Torontel—and four non-aromatic varieties: Quebranta, Negra Criolla, Mollar and Uvina. Italia and Quebranta are the two most popular varieties used in Pisco Puro and as the base of most Pisco Acholado. Quebranta is praised for its subtle earthy and herbal flavor characteristics, while Italia contributes floral, citrus fruit, and sweet spice aromas. Uvina is only allowed in the tiny Cañete Valley and the surrounding areas of Pacarán, Zúñiga and Lunahuaná. (The Cañete Valley, located 130 km north of Ica, produces Pisco primarily for local consumption.)
Pisco in Chile must be made from white wine. There are thirteen total varieties authorized, but production is focused on the top five: Muscat of Alexandria, Pink Muscat, Torontel, Muscat of Austria (Torrontés Sanjuanino), and Pedro Jiménez. The remaining eight—White Muscat, Chasselas Muscat, Yellow Muscat, Muscat Canelli, Muscat of Frontignan, Muscat of Hamburg, Black Muscat and Orange Muscat—are of lesser importance to the industry. Muscat of Alexandra and Pink Muscat are the two most popular varieties, largely due to the abundance available in the country.
Vinification
Harvest occurs from the end of February through April. There are no regulations governing harvesting methods in either country. Some producers hand-harvest for practicality; others maintain the practice for tradition. Peruvian and Chilean vineyards employ similar pergola-style trellising systems which make harvesting easy and limit exposure of the fruiting zone to sunlight, allowing for even ripeness in such low latitudes. High yield is more important than flavor, so vines beyond 11 years old are of little use to the distiller. Most Peruvian distilleries still control a portion of their own vineyards, while the majority of Chilean distillers buy finished wine for production. The arid conditions which exist in the production areas of both countries keep fungal and bacteria diseases at bay. The greatest threats to a successful harvest are the flocks of birds that arrive at harvest to eat the ripe fruit.
In Peru, ambient yeasts must be used for base wine fermentation, which can last for up to 14 days depending on the variety, desired style, and method of fermentation. There are still a few producers in Ica and Moquegua who ferment a portion of the wines destined for Pisco Puro in traditional stone fementation tanks called puntayas. Puntayas allow for extended fermentation times in ambient air temperatures. In the past these containers were buried in the ground in outdoor sheds to keep their contents cool, and they are connected by a series of canals and pipes to aid filling and emptying. Ambient yeast fermentation is not required for Chilean Pisco, but some distillers, like Horcón Quemado of San Félix in Huasco, maintain the tradition.
As Chilean wine producers and distillers adopted French wine- and spirit-making techniques by the late 1850s, fermenting and aging in cement or wooden vessels was adopted throughout Chile. Today, distillers in both countries are shifting toward stainless steel fermentation as more producers seek to maximize aromatics in the finished Pisco by maintaining lower temperatures during fermentation.
Typical pisco vineyard in Limarí.
Distillation and Aging
All wines are immediately distilled after fermentation, but the method of distillation is a key differentiator between the two styles. Peru’s Pisco regulations require the finished wine to be distilled only once in copper pot stills. In Chile distillers may use alembic-style copper pot stills and column stills. Both countries follow traditional distillation techniques—the heads and tails are discarded and only the heart of the run is used in the final product. Peruvian regulations forbid the alcoholic strength of the final spirit to be reduced with water. Again, producers from Chile harken back to French techniques and believe that there is a real art to cutting the spirit with water, and that oak aging enhances and mellows the final flavor.
Prior to bottling, Peruvian Pisco must be held for a minimum of three months in a neutral vessel, but in practice producers tend to exceed this minimum requirement. Pisco Tres Generaciones and Pisco Portón routinely rest their Pisco Puros for one year, while holding some brandies back for three years or more prior to release.
In Chile, there is a minimum of sixty days of resting but no restrictions on the type of storage vessels used. (While oak is the classic vessel, more and more modern Chilean Pisco is kept in stainless steel tanks to preserve its inherent flavors and aromas. )
While not a requirement, many Peruvian distillers will indicate the vintage on the bottle. This is becoming more common with premium Chilean brands as well.
Pisco Waqar copper pot still atop a clay oven, in Limarí.
Copper pot still at Pisco Portón in Ica.
Classifications and Designations of Quality
Traditionally, Chilean Pisco producers have valued higher alcohol levels and long aging periods over clarity, brightness, and retention of the aromatic characteristics of the base grape varieties used. The Peruvian approach continues to place a high value on clarity and the retention of the aromatic characteristics of the base grape variety in the final spirit. (Chilean brands such as Pisco Kappa and Pisco Waqar are moving away from the traditional Chilean approach to create a more Peruvian-style spirit.) Each country's classification system echoes this divide. Peru has three legal designations, and all grape varieties used in production must be listed on the label—although they rarely do for exports leaving South America, for fear of confusing the market. Many premium brands of Chilean Pisco (e.g., Pisco Waqar and Pisco Kappa) now list the varieties used, but there is no legal requirement in Chile mandating that they do so.
There are three classifications in Peru:
Peruvian Pisco must contain a minimum alcohol by volume of 38° and may not exceed 48°.
There are also four classifications in Chile based on finished alcohol content:
Chilean Pisco Reservado and Gran Pisco must be aged in wood. Another label term, Pisco Guarda, indicates a minimum of 180 days aging in new French or American oak. Pisco Envejecido indicates at least one year in new oak aging. These are rarer today as most producing barrel-aged styles will submit the spirit to at least two years in oak before release. All unoaked Chilean Pisco can be referred to as Transparente or Pisco Blanco.
In both Chile and Peru, 40-43° abv is considered the sweet spot for premium Pisco. (However, Johnny Schuler, master distiller at Pisco Portón, would like to raise the maximum abv for Peruvian Pisco to 50º as he believes it would be bring more balance to the product.)
The terms Premium, Standard, Gran Pisco, and Souvenir have no legal definition within Peruvian Pisco regulations. In Chile, Reserva, Privada, Nobel and Gran Nobel are equally meaningless. Nonetheless, all of these terms commonly appear on labels.
What's in a Name, and Recommendations from Both Sides of the Border
There are a lot of conflicting reports about the consumption volumes of Pisco in both countries. According to a report in the Santiago Times, Chile produced 20 million liters in 2011 and Peru produced 7 million liters in 2012. And in 2014, the Gobierno de Chile reported that Chile was the top importer of Peruvian Pisco, overtaking the US! It seems ironic that Peru’s great rival and competitor for Pisco is also its biggest customer. It is impossible to enter into a discussion about Pisco in either country without being asked to choose between them. But in Peru there isn’t even any room for debate—as noted on Peru's customs cards, among the list of items prohibited to enter the country: ”Beverages manufactured abroad which are named 'Pisco' will be seized.” During a recent trip to Ica, a Peruvian distiller told me, “I don’t care what they (in Chile) produce, they just can’t call it Pisco.” Just what is the value of the name? Historical records easily prove that the town of Pisco has existed in within in what is now called Peru for almost 400 years, and that a grape brandy of the same name has been shipped from its port. Yet there is an ongoing history of distillation and production of a spirit of the same name in Huasco and Limarí since at least the mid-1850s. Jaime Camposano, the master distiller at Pisco Waqar, is a fifth-generation distiller. Surely the history and tradition behind the work of his family and others like it have some sort of claim on the word "Pisco." With beer and other spirits gaining strong footholds in both markets, from the outsider's perspective it seems that the best move for Peru and Chile may be to stop directing its future by defining and locking it within its history.
Amazing article on Pisco. Bolivia also produces a brandy made from wine grapes called Singani, thought it is much more narrowly defined as 1) Muscat of Alexandria grapes, 2) High altitude vineyards, winemaking and distillation 3) and from specific regions defined by the DO. I laid out a lot more detailed information similar to this article on my website at www.strongsomm.com/.../
Good article, the date of independence of Peru is 1821. The character that you mention with date 1613, called Pedro Manuel Bofia, inhabitant in Pisco is known as "Greek" and relates in his testament brandy and pots that contained it, is a benchmark of our history with Pisco, it is worth mentioning that the date that is data the document is from 1613, but from very before his death is already produced grape brandy in Peru.
If it is a requirement to Establish the vintage year on the label . Regards
Fantastic article and great detail. Thanks
Absolutely terrific, and my restaurant just started featuring a couple of Pisco's so timing couldn't have been better. Thank you so much for your work!
Just superb...