Charles Neal

Beyond Bordeaux Satellites: From Bergerac to Gascony

Charles Neal — Fri, 27 Nov 2015 12:49:00 GMT

A couple of years ago I was asked by the Guild of Sommeliers to write an article about the wines from Southwest France. I enthusiastically agreed, but said that I could not write just one article because the region was too vast. Instead, I decided to break it down into three articles, to be researched in the three regions over three successive summers. The first installment dealt with the wines from Irouléguy, Jurançon and Madiran, whose influence from the Pyrénées and Atlantic are highly felt. The second part of the article focused on those wines grown where climate balances both Atlantic and Mediterranean influences: the highly eclectic Marcillac, Gaillac and Fronton, and the more mainstream Cahors. This third and final installment throws light on the wines that lie on the periphery of Bordeaux: Bergerac, Côtes de Duras, Côtes de Marmandais, Côtes de Brulhois, Buzet, and the Côtes de Gascogne.

The research for this article took place in the Summer of 2015 after visiting over one-dozen producers and tasting scores of wines in the region. This area of the southwest offers crisp, textural whites and awesome sweet wines often based around Muscadelle rather than Sémillon. And the red wines, often featuring Merlot, had deep color, rich fruit and round texture—the product of a warm climate and a high clay content in their soils. What’s more, the wines showed excellent value! Following each section are a number of producers whose wines are worth seeking out.

The Bergerac Region

Bergerac is the name of a city lying along the Dordogne River in the Dordogne département. Traveling from Bordeaux to Bergerac takes about an hour and a half by car, and during the 110-km trip east you pass through suburbs, St-Émilion, and fields filled with sunflowers, wheat, corn and vines. As the landscape changes, so does the character of its inhabitants. Bordeaux has the image of old-school bourgeois in BMWs and Mercedes, but Bergerac is decidedly middle class, with beat-up Renault and Peugeot cars lining the city’s somber, narrow streets. Bergerac is the capital of the Dordogne (pronounced “door-doan-ya”) département and has a population of about 28,000. The Dordogne is part of the larger Périgord region, home to the famous caves of Lascaux, with their Paleolithic cave paintings. Like Gascony, the region is also known for its culinary delicacies; in addition to southwestern duck staples (confit, foie gras, magret) it is renowned for black truffles and walnut oil. Cyrano of Bergerac comes to mind—the French novelist and playright commonly recognized by his outrageously long nose. The Dordogne is also known as a bastion of Englishness; the area contains thousands of homes owned by ex-pat Brits. In fact, some villages have a British population that outnumbers the French, while other towns have even elected a British mayor! There are direct flights from the Bergerac airport to numerous locations in Britain, which greatly facilitates travel between the two countries. Given Britain’s thirst for inexpensive yet good quality wines, Bergerac falls right in their comfort zone.

When speaking about Bergerac, it is very easy to succumb to the widely held stereotype of the region as Bordeaux’s brother from another mother. While it’s true that the regions border each other, they use the same grapes, and that Bergerac is generally less expensive, there are soil and climatic differences that set the two apart and make each unique. But to even generalize within Bergerac itself is difficult, as seven separate zones make many different wines—all with utterly different character. What makes each distinctive in its own right?

Bergerac AOP
Excellent quality, everyday wines of all colors

Apart from Bordeaux, Bergerac is the largest appellation-controlled growing region in Southwest France, and 11,500 hectares are planted with vines. Annual production is approximately 530,000 hectoliters of wine (just over 6.6 million bottles); grapes are grown by 1,000 farmers and sold by 150 négoçiants. Bergerac, as we have learned, is also the name of its capital city. Surrounding the city are 13 appellations that are concentrated in specific areas. However, a producer in a sweet wine appellation like Saussignac may release a red wine as Bergerac, while a producer in Montravel might also release their red wine as a Bergerac, simply because the name Bergerac has more resonance with wine buyers in France and abroad.

About 55% of the region’s production is red—the wine some Brits call Périgord Purple. The climate of the region has less of the Atlantic influence that Bordeaux experiences, with less rainfall and slightly higher temperatures. Such a large area makes soils difficult to generalize, but clay and limestone with varying amounts of iron are usually in abundance. A number of pockets are made up of tertiary limestone lying above streams that make their way toward the Dordogne and Dropt Rivers south of Monbazillac. And southeast of Bergerac one encounters plateaus of sedimentary limestone as well as marl and clay soils with fossilized oyster deposits within white limestone—surfaces which tend to accentuate the power of certain wines.

For red and rosé wines, Bergerac regulations permit Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Cot (Malbec), Fer Servadou and Mérille (also known as Périgord). The last two are rarely seen, and most wines are dominated by Merlot. For white wines, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle and Sauvignon Gris are the most common. Ondenc, Ugni Blanc and Chenin Blanc are also permitted—usually to provide heightened acidity—but must not comprise more than 10% of the blend.

The Bergerac appellation covers ninety communes. Bergerac Sec (white wines) has a 60 hl/ha limit, while Bergerac Rouge and Bergerac Rosé are limited to 55 hl/ha. If released as a Côtes de Bergerac Blanc (in which the whites are usually moelleux or even liquoreux while the Côtes de Bergerac Rouge have a bit more concentration than their generic Bergerac Red brethren), yields are limited to 50 hl/ha.

Vignobles les Verdots: David Fourtout has created one of the more dynamic estates in Bergerac, covering 45 hectares. As the fourth generation to farm the property, David sustainably works vineyards planted on clay, limestone, gravel and loam along the Verdot River, part of which flows through his recently constructed, state-of-the-art winery. In this new facility, he practices modern winemaking techniques like cold-soaking, skin contact, micro-oxygenation, etc. As in other large Bergerac wineries, three different categories of wines are released: entry-level, fruity wines aged in tank (Clos des Verdots), slightly more concentrated wines with a percentage of oak aging (Château les Tours des Verdots), and more structured wines with more new oak and meant to age over the course of a decade (Grand Vin). I particularly liked the mid-range wines; the white is made with about half Sémillon and a quarter each of Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle, aged 10 months in barrel on fine lees. While plenty round due to the high Sémillon content, the wine never felt heavy, and it would make a great partner to grilled fish. The red version was mostly Merlot with about a quarter each of Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon. While the 2012 was still showing its oak, the 2008 was drinking beautifully and paired well with leg of lamb. A new white wine that will be interesting to follow was Le Vin, made with 65% Muscadelle and 35% Sémillon, harvested from a number of different terroirs, with whole-cluster fermentation, aged in rolling Tronçais barrels. The 2012 was still youthful but showed notes of exotic fruit, citrus, vanilla and toast on the nose, with a full-bodied palate that in several years will make a killer accompaniment to grilled swordfish. No known US importer.

Château Tour des Gendres: Over the past 20 years, Luc de Conti has established himself as one of Bergerac’s references—an inspiration to other vignerons in the southwest, a darling in the French press, and an important presence on restaurant wine lists. Having grown up nearby, Luc purchased the domaine in 1981 and set about to restructure its largely neglected vineyards. Along with the help of his cousin Francis, they converted to organic viticulture in 1994 and their 52 hectares are now farmed biodynamically. The winery is located in the southern part of Bergerac, about ten minutes south of Montbazillac. “Maybe Montravel has the soil to make better red wines,” Luc stated when I met with him late one summer afternoon. ”But this part of Bergerac is the land of white wines!” Indeed the soil here is comprised mainly of limestone, which runs very close to the surface, helping to create racy wines that retain plenty of elegance. Luc has continually experimented throughout his career, trying organic and high-density plantations, and incorporating new oak, micro-oxygenation and Stockinger foudres into the winemaking process. “I started out contradicting my dad and following my own ideas with how wine should be made,” Luc remembers. “But it all comes back to the quality of grapes in the vineyard, something my father always preached. Call it maturity or whatever you like, but now I realize my dad was often right.” The quality across the board at this domaine is excellent. The Cuvée de Conti white, made with 50% Sémillon, has tons of fruit that balanced by Sauvignon acidity and Muscadelle complexity. The classic red, made with a 50-50 blend of de-stemmed Merlot and Malbec grown on limestone and loam soils, is deep in color and round on the palate, a good choice for uncomplicated meals. Contine Périgourdine comes from a small parcel of Muscat à Petit Grains and is aged in 30-hl foudres. Loads of fruit—clementine, exotic citrus—never become cloying and help make this a good accompaniment to tandoori dishes. Le Petit Bois is made with pure Cabernet Sauvignon planted in the ‘40s and aged in foudre. This drank like classy Bordeaux without the awkward oak or tannin often found further west. But perhaps the most exciting wine was a geeky project that Luc is aging in both foudre and cement amphora in a dual experiment with Michel Riouspeyrous in Iroulèguy. Les Vignes d’Albert is made with red grapes like Périgord and Fer, which have largely disappeared from the region, and vinified without sulfur. The wine had great texture, red and black berry fruit, and well-integrated tannins on the finish. Imported by Martine’s Wines, CA, Paul Young Wines, CA, Baron Francois, NY

Luc de Conti.

Domaine du Jonc Blanc: Between 2000 and 2006, Franck Pascal was an administrator on the Bergerac wine council. But he left his post when his wines were refused the Bergerac appellation because of their lack of typicity and natural qualities. Originally from Paris, he bought Jonc Blanc in 2000 with his partner Isabelle Carles and immediately began farming his vineyards organically. In 2004, he converted to biodynamic farming. His 19 hectares of vines are principally planted on clay and limestone within Montravel (although he releases his wines as Vin de France), just 4 kilometers from the Côtes de Castillon border. In between the vines he further promotes biodiversity by planting various cereals and vegetables. After hand-harvesting his fruit, fermentation begins with indigenous yeasts and, depending on the wine, he ages in tank, foudre or 600-liter barrels with minimal usage of sulfur. Franck is keen to talk about a wine’s natural acidity: “Natural acidity persists on the palate and has length, just like the wine itself,” he states. “Wines that have been acidified are much shorter, they just have less power to their punch.” Franck admits that Bergerac is not easy to categorize, and not simply because of the numerous appellations. “Even in my vineyard, if the white has less than 3 grams of RS, it is Bergerac Sec,” he proclaims. “Between 3 and 9, Vin de France; 9-20 is Haut-Montravel and more than 20 grams becomes Cotes de Bergerac!” Particularly impressive was the domaine’s rosé, made with pure Merlot, partially directly pressed and partially saignée, replete with plummy and cherry notes—not unlike a version from Fronton. Also tasty was his 2011 Classik, which spent 12 months in barrel and 12 further months in foudre. Made with half Cabernet Sauvignon and half Cabernet Franc, it showed a ripe nose of blackberry, some leafy complexity and velvety tannins. This wine would be perfect with grilled leg of lamb. No known US importer.

Montravel AOP(s)
Historically classy whites, but also rich, full-bodied reds

As you drive from Bordeaux toward Bergerac, Montravel is the first appellation you cross, not far from the Côtes de Castillon border. Montravel has a number of different terroirs, as the appellation is spread over rolling sand and iron-rich clay soils, while more concentrated limestone and clay compose the steeper slopes. Montravel has long been known to produce some of the finest dry whites in the region from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle. The region also produces fine sweet wines as Côtes de Montravel (normally moelleux, like Rosette) or under the Haut-Montravel appellation, which is generally reserved for sweeter liquoreux wines. In 2001 a new appellation was granted to Montravel Rouge, with obligatory high-density plantings (5,000 vines per hectare minimum), a minimum of 50% merlot planted on limestone, and AOP status granted only after the bottled wine is tasted and approved by a committee—unique along with Champagne AOP in this regard.

Château Puy Servain: Daniel Hecquet is the third generation to occupy Puy Servain, the “windy hilltop.”

Hecquet studied enology in Bordeaux, wrote a thesis on Château d’Yquem, and worked for the Chamber of Agriculture in the Loire before returning to his home turf to take over the family farm. He worked as a consultant for numerous Bergerac producers and became the chief technical advisor for the interprofessional committee of Bergerac wines. Along with Serge Dubard, Hecquet was the driving force in creating a red appellation for the red Montravel appellation. He owns

62 hectares of vines grown sustainably on two properties: Puy Servain is the property in which his oaked Montravel and Haut Montravel cuvées are produced. At Chateau Calabre, a neighboring property, he releases fresh, tank-raised reds as Bergerac AOP. In addition, Hecquet has a 6-ha property in Pécharment called Domaine de Bertanoux. His unoaked Calabre blanc stands out: 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Sémillon and 10% Muscadelle. It’s crisp and lively and perfect with seafood or white fish. The Puy Servain Montravel rouge Vieilles Vignes 2012 comes from clay and limestone soils. Made with 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc and aged in 60% new oak over the course of 15 months, this was a worthy competitor to many Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux, exuding elegant oak, deep blackcurrant and plum flavors, and silky tannins. His Haut-Montravel Terrement, made with 100% Sémillon wrapped in 125 g/l of residual sugar and some botrytis, was unctuous on the palate, exploding with aromas of dried apricot, pineapple and quince. It was superb with a slice of foie gras on a warm piece of toast. Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, The Wine House, CA and Vigneron Imports, CA

Château Laulerie: This large property in Saint-Méard-de-Gurcon is owned by the Dubard family. From 85 hectares on clay and limestone slopes, they produce a full range of wines including reds, whites and rosés aged in tank and/or barrel, and one sweet wine. The family settled in Montravel in 1977 and quickly established themselves as one of the larger, more consistent producers of technically fashioned wines, full of bright fruit and gentle acids. While all of their vineyards are in Montravel, they prefer releasing these wines in the United States as Bergerac, simply because the name is better known and more saleable. The Bergerac Sec 2014 (85% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Sémillon) is aged in tank and shows fresh Sauvignon-esque aromas and a round palate feel. A foudre-aged Montravel 2013, made with 90% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Sémillon, was Graves-like, with citrus fruit dominating the integrated oak aromas. Imported by Skurnik Wines and Fruit of the Vines, NY

Château Moulin Caresse: This 42-ha property owned by Sylvie and François Deffarge overlooks the Dordogne valley and makes solid, commercially sound wines. The reds, coming from clay and limestone soils along the gentle slopes, favor Merlot, supported by Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon and a bit of Malbec. Wines for youthful drinking are aged in tank, while the vins de garde are aged in various percentages of new oak. The château’s white wines come from the plateau’s sandier soils riddled with limestone and iron deposits—something that helps express the wines’ fine minerality. The Magie d’Automne is Sauvignon Blanc with a bit of Sémillon, Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle, aged in a judicious amount of oak. This has flavors reminiscent of Graves yet with lots of freshness. No known US importer.

Pécharment AOP
Classy red wines with elegant tannins

Pécharment is the smallest appellation within the Bergerac network, and the AOP only produces red wine. Granted in 1936, Pécharmant takes its name from the word pech (hill) and charmant (charming): the “charming hill.” Spread across four communes with south-facing slopes, its soils are largely composed of sand and gravel above tran, the local name for iron-rich clay. This terroir tends to give the wines ripe, round and concentrated fruit framed by velvety tannins, while the iron in the soil yields additional acidity that enables the wines to age gracefully. Four grapes are grown in Pécharment: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Maximum for any one variety is 65%, and at least three varieties must be used in the wines. Maximum yields are slightly lower than in Bergerac (45 hl/ha), and the wines must not be bottled until the September following the harvest. Pécharment has long been viewed as the most noble red wine in the region, and it is sometimes compared to Pomerol. About 2 million bottles are produced annually.

Domaine des Costes: Well-known and respected enologist Jean-Marc Dournel makes wine at this nearly 13-ha estate once owned by his wife’s family. Located adjacent to an industrial complex on the outskirts of Bergerac, it is not a very attractive winery; fortunately the wine is excellent! Dournel likens his wines to those of Pessac-Léognan and echoes that Pécharment, in general, has the finest tannins of the Bergerac wines and the most potential to age gracefully. Dournel’s vineyards have been certified organic since 2007 and farmed biodynamically since 2008. While his 2011 Cuvée Tradition, made with a tank-aged blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, showed pleasing notes of cherry, cassis and finished with light tannins, the 2010 flagship wine is composed of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with about 20% Cabernet Franc. The nose is classy, combining blackcurrant and cherry with a touch of lead pencil, vanilla and tobacco. The palate was well-balanced and exhibited plenty of finesse, finishing with fine tannins. This was one of the more elegant wines I tasted while in the region. Imported by Chambers Street Wine Merchants, NY

Rosette AOP
Semi-sweet wines that are perfect with light snacks

Rosette borders Pécharment and is historically closely linked, sharing a history that dates back to the 13th century. Unlike Pécharment, Rosette is an appellation of moelleux white wine; the AOP permits a semi-sweet wine that contains 25-51 g/l of residual sugar (as opposed to 80-150 g/l liquoreux wines in Monbazillac and Saussignac). Established in 1946, the AOP covers the communes of Bergerac, Creysse, Lembras, Ginestet, Maurens and Prigonrieux. Soils include clay and a little limestone, but above all light sand. Vineyards face south—opposite those of Monbazillac—and have more exposure to the sun. Permitted grape varieties are Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc (15% minimum) and Muscadelle. Yields are limited to 40 hl/ha. Not many producers exist in Rosette, and most began their domaines within the past 20 years. These are vins de l’apres-midi, or wines for the afternoon: slightly sweet, uncomplicated wines bursting with fruit and just enough acid to permit continued drinking. I hesitate to say that this could be the White Zinfandel of the region but—oops—I guess I just said it!

Chateau de Rooy: Gilles Gérault has 8 hectares of vines in Rosette and 10 in neighboring Pécharment, both of which were purchased in 1998. From his winery overlooking the Dordogne River and the hills of Monbazillac, he makes a delightful Rosette that has aromas of pear and grapefruit. Delightful on its own, this would also be tasty with a fruit tart. No known American importer.

Monbazillac AOP
Sauternes’ country cousin

Apart from Bergerac, Monbazillac is the most known appellation in the region.

Wines have been made here since the 14th century, and they achieved particular acclaim in the 1700s when nearly the entire production was exported to Holland, where it was considered an absolute rival to Sauternes. In the second half of the 20th century, destructive frosts, the emergence of low-density planting, machine-harvesting, and excessive chaptalization caused the quality and reputation of the wines to plummet. In the 21st century, thanks to more conscientious work in the vineyards and the winery, a return to the region’s former glory has begun.

Located several kilometers south of the city of Bergerac, the appellation is spread over five communes, with vineyards typically occupying northern-facing slopes. The autumn mists that rise from the Dordogne River, together with sunny afternoons, provide wonderful conditions for development of Botrytis cinerea, more commonly known as noble rot. If the mists are missing, the botrytis doesn’t develop. If the warm weather stops, the humidity becomes too high and the noble rot becomes grey rot.

Soils combine molasse (marine sediments) and limestone, covered with a thin layer of clay. Closer to the river, increased clay and gravel provide good footholds for vines that will produce lighter, more rapidly maturing sweet wines. Two types of Monbazillac exist: the Classique with about 70 g/l of residual sugar per liter, and the Selection de Grains Nobles, with more than 85 g/l of residual sugar from some shriveled grapes. Then there are the Grand Cuvées, which are made only in specific years from mostly botrytized fruit, with residual sugar levels exceeding 150 g/l.

Noble rot in Monbazillac.

Château Tirecul La Gravière: Virtually unknown 20 years ago, Tirecul la Gravière has become the most lauded domaine in Monbazillac. Bruno Bilancini was an enologist at the cooperative until the early ‘90s, when he and his wife Claudie rented a few vines on a north-facing slope where the limestone soils drained well, the clay content helped maintain moisture essential for the autumn mists, and the warm winds homogenously concentrated their grapes. In 1997 they bought the 9-ha property and slowly transformed the farm to organic viticulture; they were certified in 2012. Vines average 35 years of age (although many are over 80) and, when new plantings are necessary, massale selections are favored over clones. 54% of the vineyard is planted to Sémillon, with only 1% Sauvignon Blanc and 45% Muscadelle—a high value for the latter. “Muscadelle is almost the opposite of Sémillon in terms of structure,” Bruno states. “While Sémillon brings richness, creaminess and honey notes, Muscadelle brings balance and freshness to wines containing noble rot, and a complex nose that mixes dried fruits—especially orange zest and spices like saffron.” Harvest is manual and takes place over the course of several weeks, with only the botrytized grapes making their way to the press. Yields for the liquoreux wines are in the 5 to 18 hl/ha range. Due to their vineyard’s exposure and microclimate, the Bilancinis normally get a very high percentage of pourriture noble, and in 2009 they were able to harvest all of their grapes the same week. No chaptalization is employed, and the grapes are pressed for several hours before flowing by gravity into oak barrels where fermentation begins with indigenous yeast. Aging in barrel lasts from 1-3 years, depending on the vintage and the cuvée. A dry white is made on the property, as well as three sweet wines. The sweet wines are some of the best in the entire Southwest—Sauternes included! Very impressive is the flagship Chateau Tirecul la Gravière 2010, which shows heavy, preserved orange and white fruit notes lightened by a fine ray of acidity. The Cuvée Madame 2009 had a deep golden color from which notes of roasted apricot, honey, mocha, toast and graphite arose. The palate was unctuous and creamy, perfectly balanced by acids that will preserve this wine for the next 30 or 40 years. Imported by European Cellars, NC

Domaine de l’Ancienne Cure: This attractive hillside domaine is owned by Christian Roche, a fifth-generation wine grower who inherited part of the property from his parents, who had sold their grapes to the cooperative for years. At the end of the 1980s, Roche began bottling his own wine, giving his domaine the name of an old cure (a presbytery, or home for Catholic priests) that stands above the winery. Roche converted his 47-ha property to organic viticulture in 2010—not an easy endeavor on such a varied and large terrain. While he makes good dry whites and reds, his forté is Monbazillac. The soil here is full of minerals as well as organic matter, and it drains easily, forcing the roots to descend deeply. His 2010 L’Abbaye Monbazillac, made with 80% Muscadelle and 20% Sémillon, showed a wonderful deep golden color, aromas of dried apricot, vanilla and quince, and tremendous glycerin on the palate. The 2005 Extase is totally botrytized and made with 90% Sémillon and 10% Sauvignon Blanc; it showed an explosive nose that included caramel, nuts, dried apricot and honey, and it carried its 180 g/l of sugar with grace. Imported by Charles Neal Selections, CA

Vineyards in Monbazillac.

Saussignac AOP
The richest, sweetest wines of the region

While most people in the wine business have heard of the sweet wine Monbazillac, not many have heard of Saussignac, an appellation also devoted solely to sweet wines. Located about 10 kilometers southwest of the city of Bergerac, grapes in Saussignac must come from only four communes: Monestier, Gageac-et-Rouillac, Saussignac and Razac-de-Saussignac. Like Monbazillac, most of the vineyards are north-facing in a climate that encourages noble rot. Clay and brown silt soils sit atop clay and limestone that is often rich in iron. Permitted grape varieties are Sémillon, Muscadelle and Sauvignon Blanc, all of which legally must be harvested by hand. Chaptalization is not permitted, and the wines must have a residual sugar content of at least 68 g/l—but they usually contain upwards of 130. In good years, most of the grapes are affected by noble rot, and the harvest is conducted in numerous passes through the vineyards, during which only the botrytis-affected grapes are selected. Sweet wines from Saussignac are always liquoreux (very concentrated sweet wines) while Monbazillac runs the gamut from semi-sweet (moelleux) to liquoreux. Sweet wines from Saussignac are fantastic alternatives to sweet wines from Sauternes and must be viewed as the most noble liquoreux of the region. As in Monbazillac, most producers also have older vintages for sale, usually at very affordable prices.

Domaine Richard: Richard Doughty worked as an oceanographer before moving from his native Britain to study winemaking at La Tour Blanches in Sauternes. In 1988 he purchased a property in Saussignac which he has since expanded to 13 hectares. From the start Richard worked organically—preferring to invest in manpower rather than machines—and he has been a vocal supporter of the importance of Muscadelle, preferring to use older oak barrels and decrease reliance on added sulfur. “Saussignac has few producers with business sense,” he states when confronted with the general ignorance of his prized appellation. “We do, however, have more consistent wines than the other sweet regions in Bergerac. Stricter rules guarantee a particular richness here that you won’t find elsewhere.” His Coup de Coeur 2009, picked after several passes through the vines from small bunches of grapes, hits 230 g/l of residual sugar and is rich, concentrated and long, with notes of preserved fruit and brown sugar remarkably well-balanced by subtle acids. No known US importer.

Chateau La Payral: Thierry Daulhiac assumed control of his father’s vines in 1992; with his wife Isabelle he converted the estate to organic viticulture in 2005 and has been working biodynamically since 2010. The château makes an excellent, oak-aged dry white wine called Petite Fugue that incorporates a high proportion of Sauvignon Gris (60%). Additionally, there are several reds that showed rich, concentrated fruit (one of which had no added sulfur), and a a few of vintages of Saussignac are currently on offer. The 2006, harvested at 15 hl/ha, was aged in new oak for 18 months and showed notes of honey and golden raisins, dried apricots, and marzipan. A creamy, buttery richness and a lovely line of acidity helped tie everything together. Imported by Savio Soares Selections, NY

Côtes de Duras AOP

The Côtes de Duras is located about 30 minutes southwest of Bergerac and borders the eastern outreaches of Bordeaux. A handful of producers lie within the Gironde département (33), only a few miles from the Bordeaux border. Vines have been grown in the area since Gallo-Roman times, and there are references to its wines in records from the 12th century onward.

Duras itself is a highly visited town dominated by the Château de Duras, newly renovated and now a visible tourist attraction. First constructed during the 1100s and remade into an impenetrable stronghold in the 14th century, the château passed hands during the Hundred Years’ War between French dukes and English kings. During the English possession of Bordeaux and the Aquitaine, wines from the area were considered to be part of the Haut Pays Bordelais and were sold under that name by merchants in Bordeaux. Côtes de Duras was among the first wines to achieve appellation status in France in 1937.

Marguerite Donnadieu, the French novelist and filmmaker best known for Hiroshima Mon Amour, changed her name to Duras, the town where her father also owned a house. (And hey nerds: in Star Trek the House of Duras was one of the Great Houses of the Klingon Empire.)

The vineyards of Duras cover 1,524 hectares. This land is worked by 118 farmers, who sell their grapes to three cooperatives, and 72 independent producers who sell their wines in bottle. Duras was once especially known for its white wines; today, almost half of the wine produced is red, made from four permitted varieties: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. About one-third of the vineyards are planted with white grapes (Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle, Mauzac, Chenin Blanc, Ondenc and Ugni Blanc are permitted). And about 15% of the wines sold in the region are either rosé (normally deeply colored and hearty), or sweet (normally lighter-styled moelleux wines).

The climate in Duras is similar to that of Bordeaux, albeit with slightly less influence from the ocean and marginally higher temperatures due to its more interior location. Soils throughout the region contain white limestone covered by layers of clay, sand and, occasionally, gravel. Maximum yields for the white wines are 60 hl/ha, with 55 hl/ha allowed for the reds and 50 hl/ha allowed for the sweet wines.

Château Haut-Lavigne: Intriguing story of a brave, young Bordelaise woman, Nadia Lusseau, who studied wine near home and bought a 7½ hectares property planted on clay and limestone soils, then began converting to organic viticulture in 2005. Nadia works the property with only one part-time person, and is literally married to her vines. Although unsure what the image of Duras is, Nadia is content that at least more people seem to have at least heard of it nowadays—something which wasn’t the case when she began. While she makes a white wine, I was especially enamored by her reds, based around cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and a little malbec. They show great color and depth of fruit, and well-integrated, round tannins. The La Miss 2012, partially aged in tank and partially in barrel, would be a perfect match for steak-frites, while Mister 2010, aged for a year in barrel, was a big, thick cabernet sauvignon-scented wine which was, for all its extraction, very silky on the palate. Imported by Jenny and François, NY

Domaine Mouthes Le Bihan: Jean-Mary and Catherine Le Bihan (le petit or “small” in Breton) purchased this property in Saint-Jean-de Duras in 1998, not far from where Jean-Mary grew up. After accumulating some other vineyards, they now have 25 hectares of vines, all of which are worked biodynamically. Their first vintage was in 2000; over time they have become better winemakers, even as their original ideal—wine is made in the vineyard and not the cave—has remained as strong as ever. Fertilizer is limited to horse manure (from the 30 horses they also raise on the property) and yeasts are always indigenous. Wines are aged in fiberglass tanks and barrels, and sulfur is kept to a minimum. A wide range of wines are made at the property—with and without oak, dry, sweet and pink. In an appellation where much of the production is standardized by the cooperative’s expectations, Le Bihan is the most progressive producer in the area. And Jean-Mary still believes in the potential of Duras; he just wishes most of the other producers made better wines that heightened the image of the appellation. Some highlights from a tasting in his kitchen include the full-bodied Vieillefont 2012 (60% Sémillon, 20% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Muscadelle, aged in both tank and barrel), which showed exotic notes of pear, pineapple and vanilla, and Pierrette et les Noisetieres 2009 (100% Sémillon, vinified dry), which showed round, exotic and buttery fruit and a slight hint of petrol—like Burgundy meeting Alsace, with substantial glycerin balanced nicely by crisp citrus acidity on the finish. La Pie Colette 2013 (Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon) is aged in tank and meant to be drunk young. The color is a lovely ruby, the tannins soft and the fruit generous—a rare example of a regional red wine that can be enjoyed on hot summer days, especially with a chill. Les Apprentis 2009 (60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 18 months in barrel without racking) showed deep, dark fruit on the nose and palate, followed by a lovely suave texture and well-integrated tannins on the finish. This would be a great accompaniment to duck breast or a rare entrecôte. Imported by Avant-Garde Wine and Spirits, NY

The Le Bihan family.

Côtes de Marmandais AOP

About 20 kilometers south of Duras, one descends a long, gradual hill to arrive in Marmande, a city with a population of around 20,000, slightly less than that of Bergerac. Located just above the north bank of the Garonne River (which will eventually meet the Dordogne in Bodeaux), Marmande, like Bergerac, is not a very attractive city. Most of the facades of buildings could use a facelift, with plenty of peeling paint on otherwise gray streets. The city was founded in 1195 by Richard the Lionheart. During the 15^th and 16^th centuries, it passed between English and French hands a number of times. Historically not much of note has happened here, but the region is a hotbed of vegetable and fruit production. Pruneau d’Agen, a famous prune controlled by an appellation, is grown around Marmande, but the region is also famous for its tomatoes, renowned throughout Gascony for their intensely deep, natural flavors. A festival every August celebrates their deliciousness whether eaten raw or cooked.

Marmande has a continental climate tempered by its proximity to the ocean (it’s a 90-minute drive away). The great majority of wine made in Marmande is red or rosé (97%) made from Merlot (comprising 40% of the appellation), Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. But Syrah, Fer Servadou, Malbec and Gamay are also permitted, in addition to a grape Marmande can call its own—Abouriou. Pronounced a-boar-e-o, it is a grape native to the Lot-et-Garonne département and was first cited in the 18th century. The grape almost disappeared between 1970 and 1980 as producers shifted toward more well-known varieties, but a conservatory was established in the region in 2004 with the sole aim of protecting it. Abouriou gives high yields and is resistant to many maladies, making it relatively easy to grow. It has high tannin levels and low acidity, and it is prone to oxidation, making its élévage a bit tricky. It is usually blended with other grapes, although a few versions of pure Abouriou have surfaced. The red wines tend to have deep color with forthcoming fruit that evokes cassis and blackberry, along with a certain rusticity that works well with the heavy Gascon cuisine of duck, game and stews. With rosé wines, a note of red currant is often detected.

White wines make up only 3% of the production in Marmande, incorporating Sauvignon Blanc and up to 30% of Sémillon, Muscadelle and/or Ugni Blanc. The whites have considerably less character than the reds yet are generally well-made and provide good-value drinking.

Vines are grown on both sides of the Garonne River on the fertile hillsides of 27 different communes. The appellation totals about 850 hectares (half the size of the Côtes de Duras). South of the Garonne, known locally as the “left bank,” sand, clay and gravel soils with a good deal of sea sediment abound and resemble the terroir of more famous upriver communes including Sauternes and Graves. Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc and Abouriou grow well here. To the north of the Garonne—the “right bank”—the clay and limestone soils resemble those of nearby Entre-deux-Mers, and the area is especially accommodating to Merlot, Malbec and Abouriou.

Most of the producers in Marmande, which gained appellation status as recently as 1990, belong to the cooperative. Only seven independent producers exist in the region—a small handful that converted to organic viticulture over the past few years. A total of 6.5 million bottles of wine are produced annually.

Cave Coopérative du Cocumont: There were once two cooperatives in Marmande, but in 2004 the once-rival facilities in Beaupuy and Cocumont merged. Several years later Beaupuy on the right bank closed and all production moved to Cocumont, on the left. This cooperative, with its 122 members, now represents 95% of the appellation’s production. Wines from the cooperative are widely available at supermarkets around the southwest. I particularly enjoyed a 2012 wine called Just Abouriou which, despite its name, is made with 70% Abouriou and 30% Merlot. From its deep color came aromas of red and black fruits, a full-bodied round texture, and well-integrated tannins on the finish. It made a perfect accompaniment to duck hearts grilled over coals. No known US importer.

Domaine du Chante Coucou: Elian da Ros, a Gascon with Italian heritage, grew up on his family farm in Cocumont and always wanted to work with wine. In fact, he remembers coming up with the name Chante Coucou (the coucou sings) as an adolescent—he would later give the moniker to one of his wines. But in his early 20s, Elian left the area to work at Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace for five years, becoming committed to biodynamic farming and single-parcel vinification. Upon his return to Cocumont in 1998, he began putting the ideas he had acquired into practice with the grapes he had grown up with—new methods totally foreign to Marmande and the Southwest in general. He has gone on to become one of the most acclaimed producers from an unknown appellation.

Located on the left bank, Elian’s vineyards contain gravel, limestone and silt, and certain releases always come from certain parcels. “The soil gives, I follow,” Elian states. “I am not going to try to make a wine from a parcel that can’t produce it.” He works his 16 hectares of massale selection vines biodynamically; harvest is by hand and yeasts are indigenous. In his humid cellar, Elian uses open-top fermenters or more reductive barrels; he de-stems some grapes and ferments others with their entire clusters intact; he may or may not perform pigeage; and he always bottles without filtration. It all depends on the progression of each wine.

During my visit, Elian pulled a number of wines, starting with Le Vin Est Une Fete! (“Wine is a party!”), his everyday wine made with 40% Abouriou, 40% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot. Deeply colored, it showed blackberry and creamy licorice (reminiscent of Malbec) as well as some floral aromas. Le Vinoble d’Elian (50% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot and 20% Syrah) had, like most of the domaine’s wines, a tremendously suave texture in which the Cabernet Franc aromas dominated. Chante Coucou (50% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Malbec and 10% Syrah), grown on clay and gravel soils, had firm yet fine tannins and notes of blackcurrant and dark berries. Clos Baquey is grown on limestone and is made with one-third each of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Abouriou. The grapes are completely de-stemmed, aged in open-top fermenters with manual pigeage, and raised in barrels for 22 months. The 2010 is finally in bottle; Elian described as “a bomb” and it exploded with Cabernet Franc aromas, demonstrating little of the reduction some of this other barrel-aged wines showed. “With this wine I’m looking to raise it like Barolo,” he states, “and age it like Clos Rougeard.” Da Ros also makes a little rosé from Abouriou; its deep color was reminiscent of Irouléguy. “Sometimes I bottle early, sometimes late,” he claims, “and the color changes every year—which isn’t always easy for my clients.” In addition, a Chante Coucou Blanc is produced, made with 60% Sémillon and 40% Sauvignon Blanc. The 2013 had a rich palate and exuded notes of applesauce and nuts. The 2008 had finer, more exotic aromas, with plenty of finesse. Imported by Jolivin, CA; Oz Wine Company, MA, MFW, NY, Vin de Garde, OR

Buzet AOP

Buzet lies west of Agen in the Lot-et-Garonne département. Achieving appellation status in 1973 as Côtes de Buzet, the AOP’s name was abbreviated to Buzet in 1988. Buzet’s vineyards run along the Baïse River which, 20 kilometers further downstream, flows into the Garonne. As in Bergerac, the climate here is a tempered blend of maritime and continental, with less rain and slightly warmer temperatures than Bordeaux. Grape plantings are similar to those in Bordeaux and Bergerac, with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc dominating the red wines. Yet Malbec can also be planted, as can Abouriou and Petit Verdot (although the latter two cannot be combined for more than 10% of the blend and are, frankly, rarely seen).

Production of reds grossly outweighs that of whites (only 5,000 of the nearly 13 million bottles sold from the region are white). This tiny production of white grapes is dominated by Bordeaux varieties, with Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle comprising the majority of plantings, although a 10% maximum blend of Petit Manseng, Colombard and/or Gros Manseng is also allowed. Rosé wine is also produced and is usually made with Cabernet Franc. These deeply colored pink wines have adequate structure to work with rich foods, not unlike clairet rosé in Bordeaux.

Buzet’s 2,000 hectares of vineyards are planted on limestone and clay, gravel, and sandy soils with small pieces of limestone (boulbénes), which help Cabernet Franc to express its more floral perfume.

While there are about one-dozen independent producers in the region, the Buzet appellation is dominated by the cooperative known as the Vignerons de Buzet, which was formed in 1953. Most of the independent producers belonged to the co-op before they bought out their contracts to pursue their own winemaking goals. While most independent producers still show respect for the coop, many displayed frustration with their ability to be reviewed by the national press: it seems some of the large French magazines ask producers to consolidate their samples at a central source—in this case the Vignerons de Buzet headquarters. Oddly, wines from the smaller producers rarely get mentioned in the reviews. It’s as if their samples, for one reason or another, never made their way to the reviewers…

Fill 'er up in Buzet.

Les Vignerons de Buzet: This cooperative, long thought to be one of the best run in France, has 198 members who farm 1,870 hectares of vines, or roughly 94% of the appellation’s production. Their charter disallows the use of synthetic fertilizers and chemical weed killers, and it encourages biodiversity. The production facility is located in Buzet-sur-Baïse and, between bulk wines, bag-in-the-box and bottles, the co-op sells over 12 million bottles a year. 18% is exported. The co-op used to have its own cooperage across the street, but this closed several years ago. Now, their aging cellars contain some 2,000 barrels; some are new, but the majority are old barrels, carrying wines whose oak flavor comes through wood chips. Together, their two bottling lines ready over 20,000 bottles an hour. Inside their boutique (akin to a small supermarket for their wines), over thirty different bottlings are available, broken down into categories like light and fruity or aromatic and structured or powerful and elegant. Some of these bear the name of an actual property from where they come, while others are simply proprietary names. As a co-op, they are also willing to please every potential client, so they do have some wines that are organic and some without any additional sulfur. They have pale rosés and deeply colored rosés. Their wines are widely available in supermarket chains across France, as well as the lists of many regional restaurants. I particularly like the Baron d’Ardeuil, made with nearly equal parts of the Bordelaise varieties. Its aromatic nose and soft texture made it ideal with a blanquette de veau. Château de Gueyze, made with lower yields and aged in more new oak, is a wine that will benefit from several years aging, to be eventually enjoyed with rare duck breast or Tournedos Rossini, for example. Imported by Baron Francois, NY

Château de Pech: Like most producers in this small appellation, Daniel Tissot was not from the area—his surname and family belong to the Jura. He moved to Buzet in the 1980s but died in 1997, when his daughter Magali and partner Ludovic took over. By 2003 they began working their vineyards biodynamically. Today they farm 17 hectares of vineyards planted on gravel, limestone and clay soils in Sainte-Colombe-en-Brulhois. Seven hectares are planted with Merlot, five with Cabernet Franc, and four with Cabernet Sauvignon.

Only organic products are used to nourish the vines. Medicinal plants are favored over copper and sulfur. The soil is tilled by a horse and plow. Harvest is by hand. Permitted yields within the appellation are 55 hl/ha, but Pech usually works with less than 35 hl/ha. After a careful sorting, the wines begin fermenting with only indigenous yeast. Some lots are crushed by foot! Some are aged in demi-muids and others in large foudres, for 3-5 years. Minimal amounts of sulfur are used at bottling. I tasted a number of wines with Ludovic and particularly liked Le Pech Abusé, aged in ancient foudres for 4 years. This deeply colored red had rich texture and intense notes of earthy blackcurrant. While the Badinerie du Pech was still closed on the nose, the palate opened up to show ripe red and black fruit, round tannin, and the wine proved to be a wonderful partner for daube des cèpes (porcini mushroom stew) later that evening. I also tried a dry white made with Sauvignon Blanc, aged for 14 months in older demi-muids. This wine has impressive texture, but it lacked some of the varietal character one expects from pure Sauvignon. Magali and Ludovic are certainly warriors in an appellation not known for its originality, but their wines sometimes exhibit notes often seen in natural wines, like severe reduction or dominant animal qualities. No known US importer.

Domaine Courège-Longue: After studying winemaking in Bordeaux ,working at Château Barbanau in Provence, and Château de Mirail in the Côtes de Gascogne, David Sazi returned home in 2010 and took over his father’s vines while renting a few additional parcels. He now organically farms 5.5 hectares in Fuegarolles, from which he makes five wines. Soils blend clay, limestone, and sand with small limestone pieces and gravel—elements he feels give his wines finer tannin. In his small winery he runs two basket presses and then ages in stainless steel and cement tanks along with wooden barrels. For summer pleasure, Sazi makes a white moelleux with Gros Manseng purchased in the Côtes de Gascogne, and a rosé from Cabernet Sauvignon. But the reds are his most interesting wines: I tasted a couple of vintages of the oak-aged Vieilles Vignes, made from 45-year-old vines (50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot). The 2012 had a ripe nose combining plums, red fruit and a medium- to full-bodied structure that showed fine tannins. The 2010 had a deeper inner core of red fruits and a classy musk note that also showed floral overtones. Family Tradition is aged in tank and provides more immediate but less compelling drinking. A Thomas Calder Selection. Imported by Free Run Wines, WA and Sacred Thirst, CA

Brulhois AOP

Brulhois lies about 20 kilometers east of Buzet, just below the city of Agen. Once the Côtes de Brulhois VDQS, Brulhois achieved appellation status (and a shortened name) in 2011. Brulhois is equidistant from the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, and both bodies of water influence its climate. There is a decent amount of annual rainfall, but warm winds from the Mediterranean help grapes to achieve optimum ripeness late in the season.

Brulhois only makes red and rosé wines, from Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and (unlike the other regions in this installment) Tannat. Fer Servadou and Malbec are also permitted, although they are less frequently employed. The wines, as one might imagine, are deeply colored and hearty; they make great pairings with regional specialties like duck and prunes, or a rare steak with cèpes.

Located not far from the Garonne River, the appellation straddles the Lot-et-Garonne, Gers and Tarn-et-Garonne départements. Merlot is fond of the limestone and clay soils scattered around the region, while Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon favor the clay and gravel soils found in its ancient riverbeds. Cabernet Franc prefers what people here call boulbénes—sandy soils with small limestone pebbles.

This is another appellation where production is dominated by the cooperative. While focused on wine, most of the handful of independent producers supplement their income with additional crops, including sunflowers, grains and fruit. Very few wines from Brulhois are exported; most is sold either at the cooperative or in local supermarkets.

Côtes de Gascogne

The Côtes de Gascogne is a vast expanse of vines that covers nearly 13,000 hectares within the Gers department of Southwest France, a region considered by most to be the heart of Gascony. Unlike the Dordogne, the Gers isn’t highly trafficked by those from abroad, and most tourists come to enjoy the peacefulness of the area’s rolling hills that are covered by a patchwork of green, gold and yellow fields. Its unspoiled natural beauty, medieval towns, sunny skies, and distant views of the Pyrenees Mountains leads some to describe the Côtes de Gascogne as the Tuscany of France.

The Côtes de Gascogne is now the largest white wine producing in France and the largest wine-producing area in Southwest France. 1,200 producers grow grapes and about a tenth of those bottle wines at their domaines. While a great deal of these wines are consumed in the region, 75% of Côtes de Gascogne wine is exported. White wine makes up 80% of production (65% dry and 15% medium sweet), while

10% of the production is red and 10% rosé.

This region, however, has not always been so well known for its wines. In fact, until 1980, very little of the wine produced in the region was ever consumed; instead, it was distilled into region’s famous brandy, Armagnac. In addition to the stalwart Baco 22-A, Armagnac’s principal grapes are Ugni Blanc and Colombard. In the Ténarèze and eastern part of the Bas-Armagnac where the soils are clay and limestone as opposed to sand, growers discovered that the latter two, when they were cropped lower, given a little more time in the vineyard, and fermented under temperature control, produced wines that were highly aromatic and full of grapefruit-scented fruit, especially when the acidity was balanced by a little residual sugar. What’s more, because the yields were high, the wines could be produced for a song—even now, most Côtes de Gascogne whites retail for less than ten bucks a bottle.

In addition to the Armagnac grapes, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are also planted; these are occasionally blended with other grapes but usually released on their own for those looking for recognizable, single-varietal wines.

Over the past ten years, white wines from the area have evolved. Gros Manseng, a grape most frequently seen in Jurançon Sec wines, is growing in popularity, giving wines that have higher alcohol, longer-lived acidity and notes of exotic citrus fruits. The region also permits Chenin Blanc in the vineyards, although few producers have planted it. Côtes de Gascogne wines are delicious on their own or with seafood, composed salads and light-bodied fish.

The region also makes red wines (after all, the regional cuisine is based around duck, game birds, pork and other rich foods), but they have not yet caught the attention of the international public. Based on Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Tannat, the wines have a rusticity that doesn’t resonate with consumers looking for “easy” wines in the $12 price point, especially when compared to reds from Spain or New World countries. This might change in the future, however, as Syrah is now permitted and may help to create softer, more approachable wines.

Ugni Blanc hanging on the vine in Gascony.

Producteurs du Plaimont: In 1973, Andre Duboscq traveled to Germany, drank Riesling, and had a vision that the high-acid white grapes of his region could be vinified in tank and bottled with a little residual sugar to create highly enjoyable quaffers. When the Armagnac market began to wane at the end of the 1970s, he organized hundreds of growers and formed a well-run cooperative called Plaimont, whose name came from the abbreviations of the towns where the three production facilities were located: “Pl” for Plaisance, “ai” for Aignan and “mont” for St. Mont. Since that time, the Plaimont Producers have purchased Madiran’s co-op in Crouseilles and a Côtes de Gascogne co-op in Condom, and the business has collected over 1,000 members and controls 5,300 hectares of grapes. Most known for their Côtes de Gascogne (they produce nearly 50% of the IGPs output), they also make wines from Madiran and Pacherenc du Vic Bilh (actually 48% of those appellation’s productions), and a staggering 98% of the production in Saint-Mont AOP. Despite such large production, the wines are correctly made, pleasurable, and packaged according to market trends. While not deep or complex, it is possible that their 25 export countries would have never heard of the region had it not been for this highly professional and pioneering cooperative.

Château de Tariquet: If the Plaimont coopérative controls the most vines in the region, Château de Tariquet owns the most vines. Their dominance of the market began in the 1980s when Yves Grassa began replanting his father’s Armagnac vines and purchasing vineyards from neighboring proprietors in and around Eauze. The Grassa empire has grown to cover over 1,200 hectares, and Grassa also buys grapes. They are, by far, the largest independent producer in the region. In Normandy, Savoie, Paris, Provence and the Loire, Tariquet is seen on multiple wine lists. (And in about forty different countries, too!) They are, both at home and abroad, the independent leader and largely responsible for waving the Côtes de Gascogne flag in quality establishments. Never resting on their laurels, they continue to make consistent wines that give a lot of pleasure, especially if you like rich textures. While they have cut down on the number of labels in their arsenal, their wines are most commonly seen as Domaine de Pouy, Domaine la Hitaire and, of course, Château de Tariquet. It is not true to say that the popularity of the Côtes de Gascogne wouldn’t have hit such heights without the existence of Tariquet, but it is not difficult to make that argument either. In short, they did for this IGP what Alain Brumont did for Madiran. Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, with various US distributers.

Domaine Duffour: These wines are produced at the Domaine de Saint Lannes, named after the 12th-century church whose ruins stand next to the property and from which they also release wines under the name Domaine de Salettes. From their 70 hectares of vines, Michel and his son Nicolas vinify their white wines primarily with Colombard, which is usually present in at least 80% of their white blends. They recently modernized their winery, lining its floor with more efficient temperature-controlled tanks. While also releasing red, off-dry and sweet wines, their forté is in the dry white. It shows grapefruit, citrus fruit and a floral component in its explosive bouquet, and its bright acidity beckons tasters to partake in a second or third glass. Imported by Skurnik Wines, NY and Charles Neal Selections, CA

Domaine Chiroulet: Chiroulet, local patois for the whistling sound the wind makes as it sails over the rolling hills, has enjoyed equal acclaim for reds and white wines. Son Philippe Fezas, a long-time representative at cooper Seguin-Moreau, is largely responsible for these Merlot-based wines at this 45-ha property. (He always includes a bit of tannat to retain regional typicity.) But his whites are some of the best in the region too, including perhaps the most complex Côtes de Gasconge on the market: Terres Blanches, made with 50% Gros Manseng, 40% Sauvignon Blanc and a little Ugni Blanc. La Côte d’Heux, a pure Gros Manseng, has more texture and exotic fruit notes enclosed by tender acids. Imported by Charles Neal Selections, CA and Thomas Meunier Selections, NC and MD

Château de Pellehaut: Brothers Martin and Mathieu Beraut direct this 250-ha property in Montreal-du-Gers, the canton that has the highest output of wine in the entire Côtes de Gascogne. The Harmonie blanc often includes a little Folle Blanche and exudes notes of citrus fruit. Their reds are also excellent; the star is Les Marcottes, a barrel-aged blend of Merlot and Tannat that shows more roundness than you would expect in a wine with so much regional character. Pellehaut is perhaps the top producer of Armagnac from the Armagnac-Ténarèze AOC, where their vineyards are located. Imported by Chambers and Chambers, California, Martin Scott, New York, Connoisseur Wines, Chicago

Domaine de Pajot: This is a 60-ha domaine in Eauze that makes all colors of dry wine, a sweet wine, Floc de Gascogne and Armagnac. One of the few organic producers in the region, Pajot began its environmentally respectful journey in 2001. The domaine’s Les 4 Cepages incorporates four grapes—Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc and Gros Manseng—and delivers plenty of zippy fruit and freshness, especially when consumed in its first two years of life. Imported by Grape Expectations, CA, OR, WA, Polaner Selections, NY, Cream Wine, IL

Where the Ocean Meets the Sea: Wines of Fronton, Gaillac, Marcillac, and Cahors

Charles Neal — Fri, 21 Nov 2014 14:19:00 GMT

In my first installment on the wines of Southwest France I covered wines from the Pyrénées, including Jurançon, Madiran and Irouleguy. In this second installment, we are moving from the western edge of the Southwest to its eastern border. Here the wines are influenced by the intersection of two bodies of water: the Atlantic Ocean to the west and the Mediterranean Sea to the south.

The Atlantic climate is damp, with plenty of rain throughout the year. Spring always carries the risk of mildew and rot, while relatively late picking dates and fogs encourage noble rot in autumn. Bordeaux is a perfect example of a region that has an Atlantic climate. The Mediterranean climate (think Provence and the Languedoc-Roussillon) is dryer and experiences warm winds that originate in North Africa, cross the sea, and head north. On the continent, these winds help to provide conditions for earlier ripening.

The wines from the regions profiled in this article are the fruitiest and most forwardly aromatic of the Southwest. That is not to say that they are light and easy to drink. (They are, after all, from the area whose cuisine revolves around duck and pork!) But unlike Madiran—which is challenging to consume on its own—many of these wines can be served by the glass and enjoyed with or without food.

Fronton AOP

Fronton is the name of a town located in the Tarn-et-Garonne département (31), a twenty-minute drive north of Toulouse and a half-hour south of Montauban. Vineyards in the region were initially planted around the time of the first millennium, when the Crusades arrived in Southern France and the Knights of Saint Jean de Jerusalem settled in the area and built churches and abbeys. (The Knights had been dislodged from Jerusalem and settled briefly in Cyprus before moving onto the European continent, brining vine stock with them.) Many centuries later the area held two winegrowing zones, surrounding the towns of Villaudric (which achieved VDQS status in 1945) and Fronton, which became a VDQS in 1947. In the 1960s and 1970s cooperatives in both zones differentiated themselves with their bottles: Villaudric used a Burgundy-shaped bottle and Fronton used the Bordeaux bottle. In 1975, the two regions joined together to achieve appellation status as Côtes du Frontonnais AOC. Its name was abbreviated to Fronton in 2008.

The Fronton region is not what one would necessarily call pretty. Many vineyards lie alongside fields of sunflowers and barley, but scores of suburban houses, built over the last 30 years, are also scattered about the mostly flat and arid terrain. A road with passing cars and trucks is rarely out of sight, and highways can often be seen in the distance. Some vineyards can be found next to shopping centers or abandoned fields. Unlike many wine regions in France, there is not much to write home about regarding the Fronton landscape. Wineries are normally found next to (or attached to) their owners’ houses. Fermentation vessels are typically made of fiberglass or cement, or occasionally stainless steel. If barrels are to be found, they are usually not new. The wines of Fronton are value-priced, usually retailing for between $12 and $18 per bottle.

Stats: Fronton has about 1,600 hectares (3,950 acres) of vineyards, making it slightly larger than Madiran. Annual production averages 70,000 hectoliters (just under 9 million bottles of wine). Fronton is the closest wine appellation to France’s fourth-largest city, Toulouse, but its sales are still dwarfed by those of both Bordeaux and the Languedoc.

The Soil: Fronton has three distinctive soil types that rise in terraces from the left bank of the Tarn river, most of which are rich in clay with varying amounts of iron, flint, quartz, and limestone pieces. The first terrace, not far from the river, is composed of boulbènes: chunks of limestone and crushed quartz ranging in size from marbles to golf balls, often surrounded by sandy clay. These stones originated in the Massif Central mountain range in the middle of France and were carried to the region by the Tarn millions of years ago. Rougets, found on the second terrace to the south, are soils composed of clay and silt and are, because of their higher iron content, redder in color. Gravel is commonly found on the third terrace in the western part of the appellation, which is higher in elevation. Beneath the gravel are larger chunks of limestone that sit atop deep clay. This type of soil helps produce grapes with more concentration and structure.

boulbènes

The Grapes: Only red grapes are allowed in the Fronton appellation. Over half of the Fronton vineyards are planted with Négrette, a descendant of a grape from Cyprus called Mavro (meaning “black” in Cypriot) that was brought by the Knights of Saint Jean of Jerusalem to the continent centuries ago. More recent studies place Négrette within the Cot family of grapes, which also includes Tannat and Malbec. Alternatively, other research suggests that Négrette was brought to the region from Spain during the Middle Ages, first arriving in Gaillac before moving west to Fronton. Négrette is still a permitted (yet rarely found) variety in Gaillac, but its undisputed home now is in Fronton. Négrette, the “little black grape,” has relatively low acid but is deeply colored and loaded with fruit flavors that include blackcurrant, blackberry, raspberry, licorice, pepper, game and an effusive floral note that suggests violet and peony. Many tasters have found similarities between certain aromas of Négrette and those of Syrah from the Northern Rhone.

Négrette can be found in North America, where it goes under the name Pinot Saint George. Only a handful of wineries today make wine from the grape in California, but it was once widely planted and frequently used in jug wines several decades ago. The DeRose Winery in Hollister considers it to be one of their specialties and still releases Pinot Saint George as a varietal wine.

Négrette must be planted in at least 50% of a producer’s vineyards and must make up at least 40% of the wine; however, about a dozen producers also make cuvées with 100% Négrette. Other varieties permitted in the appellation include Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and—to a much smaller extent—Gamay, Malbec, Cinsault, Fer Servadou and Merille. Unlike red wines from the Pyrénées, wines from Fronton are softer, fruitier and easier to consume in a wider variety of situations due to their lower acid and tannin structures.

Just under a third of the region’s production is rosé; Fronton is one of the few appellations in the Southwest that takes its pink production seriously! These rosés are normally deeply colored and medium- to full-bodied, with earthy aromas and flavors that combine red cherry and plum.

What to eat while drinking Fronton: A classic local pairing with Négrette is grilled Toulouse sausage, but any thick pork sausage works. Couple this with some cannellini beans and you have a fine meal on your hands. Another common pairing is cassoulet, a delicious stew made with pieces of duck, pork and beans that is slow-cooked at low heat until a crust forms on top. A final suggestion: spicy North African couscous stew, with lamb and Merguez sausages, boiled vegetables and semolina. In short, Fronton wines work well with rustic, hearty plates with rich flavors.

Aging Fronton: As Négrette is a grape with relatively low acid, pure Négrette wines will age gracefully over the course of six or seven years. Fronton wines made with the addition of Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah will have a longer lifespan, perhaps lasting ten years before going into decline. The more Cabernet in the blend, the more they begin to resemble Bordeaux wines. Understandably, additional Syrah brings the Northern Rhône to mind.

Recommended producers in Fronton
Domaine Le Roc: After studying winemaking in Toulouse, Frédéric “Fredo” Ribes returned to join his brother Jean-Luc in running the family domaine. Since the early ‘90s, Fredo has been viewed as the appellation’s most serious winemaker and a qualitative counterpoint to the region’s largest independent producer, Bellevue la Fôret. Ribes makes a concentrated, pure Négrette called “Folle Noire d’Ambat,” an excellent rosé, and and a long-term cellaring candidate composed of 50% Négrette and 50% Syrah called “Don Quichote” (Don Quixote).
-Imported by Charles Neal Selections and Langdon-Shiverick Imports

La Colombière: A 17-hectare domaine located on the Villaudric side of the appellation, La Colombière is run by husband and wife Philippe and Diane Cauvin. Their property has clay soils with plenty of pebbles, and they are now farming their vineyards biodynamically. “Vinum,” made with 100% Négrette grown on sand and clay soils, sees a short fermentation period in order to preserve its fresh fruit flavors and notes of spice. The wine gives lots of pleasure on hot days. Another warm weather favorite is the “Vin Gris” rosé—the wine was once nearly too pale to achieve appellation status but is now firmly in line with the hue of popular Provencal pink wines.
-Vin de Froggy Imports

Château Bouissel: Domaine Bouissel is located on the third terrace, at about 140 meters elevation. Their vineyards have more limestone than many in the appellation, lending their wines a richer, rounder mouth feel. “Le Négrette de Bouissel” has blackberry and cassis fruit oozing from its silky texture. Also of note is a tasty IGP Comté Tolosane called “Peiruda,” a white made with a highly original blend: one-third Petit Manseng, one-third Viognier and one-third Colombard. It shows plenty of pineapple and apricot flavors buttressed by bright acidity.
–Imported by the Wine Company (St. Paul, MN)

Château Plaisance: Marc Penavayre expanded his father’s property to 30 hectares after returning home in 1991. In 2000 he began working his vineyards sustainably and converted to organic viticulture in 2012. The vineyards are located on the second and third terraces of Fronton on rougets and stony soils. Today he works with only indigenous yeasts, bottling his wines without filtration. His “Grain de Folie” is a blend of Négrette and Gamay and is a simple, fruity and highly enjoyable quaffer that is ideal with a light chill. More serious is his “Tradition,” made with Négrette, Syrah and a touch of Cabernet Franc. His “Alabets,” made with pure Négrette and bursting with black fruits and violets, finishes with fine, dusty tannins.
–Imported by VOS Selections

Gaillac AOP

Gaillac is in the Tarn département (81); the town lies east of Fronton and about forty-five minutes northeast of Toulouse. Archaeological discoveries show that vines have been cultivated in the area since the first century—the area was then part of a Roman province, Narbonnensis, linking Provence and Spain. Like most of Europe, grapes were grown primarily under the watchful eye of the church, and viticulture was interrupted by numerous invasions and wars. In the 19th century, the importation of wines from outside the region was prohibited, helping to boost local production. Sparkling wines from Gaillac developed a reputation. Vignerons began fermentation in the fall, bottled their wines during cold winter months after fermentation naturally stalled, and watched fermentation continue in the bottle once the weather began to warm. This process became known as the méthode Gaillacoise.

Before the arrival of phylloxera most still wine from Gaillac was red, but increasing competition from the Languedoc following post-phylloxera replanting forced the Gaillacois to concentrate on white wine production. Sweet whites came into vogue in the 1930s and Gaillac, an area whose climate provided favorable conditions for such wines, became so renowned that it achieved appellation status for white wines in 1938. Unfortunately, red grapes became secondary and suffered in quality, with rustic varieties like Jurançon Noir and Portugais Bleu (Blauer Portugieser) capable of little more than producing high-acid table wines.

With the rise of co-ops in the 1960s and 1970s, more international varieties were introduced to the region, including Syrah, Gamay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. These better-known varieties created a larger market for Gaillac reds (resulting in the addition of red wines to the region’s AOC in 1970), while obviously removing some of the region’s typicity. A few new wines were also added to the appellation’s arsenal, including bubbly made by the méthode Champenoise and primeur wines made with Gamay.

Today, Gaillac is the most wide-ranging appellation in the Southwest with over a dozen permitted varieties and many different types and colors of wine. “Our force is that we have many different wines to offer people,” claims Bernard Plageoles of the Domaine des Très Cantous. “If you go to a tasting and there are other producers from Cahors, Fronton or Madiran, most are standing behind their tables with a few red wines and, perhaps, a rosé. In Gaillac, all the producers have tables full of different kinds of wines to offer customers.” Indeed, Gaillac makes red wine, white wine, rosé, nouveau wine, pétillant wine, sparkling wine, sweet wine, demi-sec wine and semi-oxidized wine—it is one of the most diverse appellations in France. Permitted red varieties include Duras, Braucol (Fer Servadou), Mauzac Noir, Prunelard, Gamay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah. White varieties include Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle, Len de l’El, Ondenc, and four different types of Mauzac.

The Stats: With over 4,200 hectares under vine, Gaillac is the second largest appellation in Southwest France behind Bergerac. The production is between 110-150,000 hectoliters of red wine (64%), 45-60,000 hectoliters of white wine (26%), and 20,000 hectoliters of rosé (10%). The area’s 100 independent wine producers and three cooperative cellars produce about 20 million bottles of wine annually. Most Gaillac wine is best when consumed in its first five years of life, when the fruit, spice and tannin are most in harmony.

White Grapes of Gaillac
Mauzac Blanc: Another ancient variety used for still wines but often found in sparkling Gaillac made by the méthode Gaillacoise, Mauzac has good acidity and usually gives wines that have a distinctive apple skin flavor. It is more regularly encountered in Limoux (part of the Languedoc), where it must make up 90% of the blend in Blanquette de Limoux.

Len de l’El: A grape also known by its French (rather than Occitan) name Loin de l’Oeil, its name means "far from the eye"—supposedly in reference to the length of the stems between the eye (bud) and the grape. This grape can be used for both dry and sweet wines, and it usually has more acidity than Mauzac. Its aromas contain floral notes accompanied by lemon-drop and orange.

Ondenc: An old southwestern variety first mentioned in the late 18th century, Ondenc has nearly disappeared because of its tendency to ripen early and its susceptibility to various maladies. In 1958, 1,589 hectares were planted in France—there are fewer than 20 today. It produces both dry and sweet wines, usually with low acid and honeyed notes that often evoke quince.

Muscadelle: While often used in a supporting capacity in the dry wines of Entre-Deux-Mers, Muscadelle also has a home in Gaillac, where it is usually used for sweet wines that have aromas of fig, honey, apricot and quince. Small percentages of this wine can also be found in Sauternes and Monbazillac.

Red Grapes of Gaillac
Braucol: This grape is also found in Marcillac, where it goes under the name Mansois. In Madiran it is Pinenc de Pinet. In wine literature, it goes under the name Fer Servadou. Braucol, as it is known in Gaillac, has solid rootstock and can be grown on trellises or in gobelet; it gives notes of black fruit, cassis, licorice and spice. Braucol reaches higher alcohol in Gaillac (because of the Mediterranean influence) than in Marcillac.

Duras: A grape found almost exclusively in Gaillac, its name is derived from its solid or dur rootstock. It is part of the Pinot family and produces wines of deep color with good alcohol levels, moderate structure and notes of dark fruit and pepper.

Prunelard: Sometimes spelled Prunelart, this grape’s name comes from local patois for plum, because of the grape’s shape and color. DNA studies have shown that Prunelard is one of the parents of Malbec. Its deeply colored wines emit flavors of Mirabelle plum, cherry, gunflint, spice, stone and herbs.

Mauzac Noir: This red grape is somewhat difficult to find in the region but produces spicy wines that are light in color, body and alcohol.

The Soil: Historically, the Romans shipped goods along the Tarn River, which flowed into the Garonne and eventually led to Bordeaux, a major shipping point. Today, Gaillac still uses the Tarn to divide its three terroirs. In the southern part of the appellation (referred to as la rive gauche, the left bank), soils are comprised of gravel, small stones and clay—a base conducive to red wine production. On la rive doite (right bank) of the river, clay and limestone soils permit white wines to have equal importance. The northern part of the appellation is at higher altitude and the soils also contain much more limestone. It is truly an area where the adage “white soils make white wines” rings true. This varied terroir and multitude of permitted grapes have caused some to complain that Gaillac is too diverse to categorize. Bernard Plageoles disagrees: “Twenty years ago, some journalists thought that Gaillac was too diverse to have an identity and many other writers followed suit. But we basically have three soil types in the appellation and six or seven varieties that everyone uses. It’s no more complex here than in the Loire Valley or Bordeaux.”

What to eat while drinking Gaillac: With all the wines that are produced in Gaillac, one can always find a wine for any plate they decide to consume. The region itself lies at the crossroads of several regions and is influenced by their cuisines: Gascony with its duck and pork, the Massif Central with its charcuterie and cheese, and the Languedoc with its garlic and spices. Gaillac whites might be used as a replacement for Arneis or Orvieto, lighter reds made with Mauzac or Braucol could be substituted for mineral-driven Gamay from around France, while Duras, Prunelard or more serious blends of several grapes would make an excellent accompaniment to grilled meats or hearty vegetarian dishes. The sparkling wines often have yeasty, apple-cider notes that would be ideal with mushroom canapés.

Recommended producers in Gaillac
Domaine des Causse Marines: This small domaine is located in the northernmost section of Gaillac above the town of Vieux, along a gentle limestone-rich slope. Patrice Lescarret acquired eight hectares of vines in 1993 and was soon joined by his now-partner Virginie Maignien, a Jura native who had met Patrice at school in Beaune and worked at Domaine Jean Thévenet in Beaujolais. Together the couple began farming their vines organically, then biodynamically. Their 55,000-bottle annual production comes from a total of 13 different grapes, most of which are planted on their original rootstock. Causse Marines is in the natural wine camp, using only indigenous yeasts, rejecting the use of enhancers, and incorporating low levels of sulfur at bottling time. The white “Les Greilles,” a blend of Mauzac, Ondenc, Muscadelle, Semillon and Chenin Blanc, is aged in fiberglass and has a lovely texture with forward fruit and well-integrated acidity. “Dencon,” made with Ondenc and 10% Petit Manseng, is aged in older oak, and shows notes of exotic citrus fruit and a touch of honey, vanilla and anise. Reds like “Peyrouzelles,” made with a blend of Duras, Braucol and Syrah and aged in tank, have great forward fruit kissed by spice, a sense of purity, and high drinkability. Their sparkling “Raides Bulles,” made by the méthode Gaillacoise, incorporates a little Mauzac along with Syrah, Duras, Braucol and Jurançon Noir. It has gentle bubbles that help carry the fruit’s tender sweetness. The couple also has some vines in Marcillac that they have started to cultivate.
-Imported by Louis/Dressner

Virgine Maignien

Domaine des Très Cantous: Robert Plageoles once headed the growers’ association that advised people to plant international varieties. Quickly disillusioned, he abandoned ship and instead focused on the indigenous varieties of the region, becoming so obsessed with them that he wrote a landmark book on the subject. Tres Cantous (“three chimneys” in the local dialect) is now run by his son Bernard and grandsons Romain and Florent. The domaine covers 20 hectares, split between two properties in neighboring communes in the northern part of the appellation, where a thin layer of clay sits atop a solid core of limestone. Duras, Prunelard, Mauzac Noir, Syrah, Len de l’El, Muscadelle, Mauzac Roux, Mauzac Vert, Ondenc and Verdanel are always vinified on their own—no blending. The red wines see no oak. Having worked organically for 20 years, this domaine stands as a reference point for most in the region. Especially strong are their sweet wines that are always rich in texture and ooze notes of citrus and stone fruits. The domaine’s “Vin d’Autan,” made with 100% Ondenc cropped at half a ton an acre, has long been on the lists of many three star restaurants in France. A quarter of the family’s production comes from their “Mauzac Nature”—made by the méthode Gaillacoise—but they also produce an excellent “Vin de Voile”: pure Mauzac raised for seven years under a yeast film in 600-liter barrels. It gives many Vin Jaune wines a run for their money.
-Imported by Charles Neal Selections and Jenny and Francois Selections

Domaine Rotier: Domaine Rotier is located in the Gaillac’s rive gauche, south of the Tarn River. Here the soil is composed of gravel pieces and alluvial sediment that are particularly suited to red grapes. Understandably Alain Rotier makes a number of excellent organic reds that combine Braucol, Duras and/or Syrah. “Esquisse” is made with a third of each grape and aged solely in tank with a low dose of sulfur. Checking in at 12% alcohol, its red and black berry fruit along with a hefty dollop of spice makes it an excellent hot weather quaffer. “L’Ame,” made with 80% Duras and 20% Braucol, has much more volume and stains the palate with cassis, mint and coconut flavors, elements that make it a great partner with rich meat dishes. The “Rennaisance” blanc is made with 100% Len de l’El, harvested with noble rot and finishing at about 230 grams of residual sugar. Chock full of quince, fig and apricot notes, yet retaining impressive acid for its weight, this sweet wine also finishes with admirable length.
–Imported by Oz Wines, Roanoke Valley Wine Company, Tru Wines

Domaine de la Ramaye: Michel Issaly, president of the Association of Independent Winegrowers in France (Vignerons Independents), has a small six-hectares domaine about a five-minute drive west of Gaillac in Sainte Cécile d'Avès. Most of this eccentric producer’s wines are red, and only about 20,000 bottles are produced a year. A great experimenter, he investigates various trellising systems (growing grapes vertically on stakes rather than horizontally on wires) and the planting of vines at random rather than in rows to see if less standardization allows more inspiring personality. He works his chalk and clay-based vines organically, keeps yields low, and harvests entirely by hand. His wines are aged in fiberglass and cement tanks and fermentations are conducted with indigenous yeasts. He bottles with minimal sulfur levels. Highlights here include a number of sweet wines made with Mauzac and Len de l’El (especially “Le Sous-Bois de Rayssac” and “Quintessence Grains par Grains”) and a red made with equal parts Prunelart and Braucol called “Le Grand Tertre,” which has deeply concentrated red fruits that hint at cherry and plum with a nice touch of spice on the finish.
-No known American importer

Marcillac AOP

Marcillac is the name of a town in the Aveyron département (12) from which the appellation takes its name. It lies due east of Cahors, equidistant from Bordeaux and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is not a common destination for tourists—it is nearly an hour and a half northeast of Gaillac and about two and a half hours from Montpellier. While Aveyron is the fifth-largest département in France, it is also one of the least visited; for most people, it is simply too far off the grid. Much of the land is covered by fenced-off acreage on which sheep graze; their milk will be used for Roquefort cheese, Aveyron’s most famous export. Other famous products from Aveyron are Laguiole knives and cutlery. Michel Bras has an amazing three-star Michelin restaurant just over an hour northeast of Marcillac, in Laguiole itself.

About ten kilometers west of the département’s capital Rodez, you make a turn off the route nationale and head north. A few kilometers later, the road begins to descend and an amazing red rock canyon unfolds before you. As you stare across the canyon at the slopes, you gradually realize that much of it is etched with empty terraces, remnants of a much more populated area a century ago.

Records indicate that wine has been produced in the region since the 9th century, likely brought by monks from Burgundy to the abbey at Conques, one of the towns along the Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle route. During the early 19th century, many of the region’s vineyards were owned by the upper class in nearby Rodez, who shared their harvests with their workers. Production in Marcillac soared during the later 19th century, when coal-mining became an important industry in nearby towns. But phylloxera ended up destroying the vineyards. Anxious to supply the thirsty mine and steel workers, vines were afterward grafted and planted in areas that produced plenty of grapes and wine, albeit of mediocre quality.

The mid-20th century saw mine closures and relocation of industries, heavy losses during the Second World War, and a ruinous frost in 1956—events that caused the population and wine production to dwindle. Many locals moved north to Paris where, it is said, more café owners have roots in the Aveyron than in the capital itself. Vineyards were abandoned or ripped up: the total dropped from over 870 hectares of vines in 1956 to a mere 23 hectares in the early 1960s. In the mid-1960s, the remaining producers joined forces and formed a cooperative, whose success was aided as Marcillac achieved VDQS status in 1965. In 1990, it was awarded appellation status.

The Stats: With 210 hectares of vines today, Marcillac is about the size of Volnay. Only red and rosé wines are allowed. Annual production averages 8,000 hectoliters per year or 1,000,000 bottles—also similar to Volnay. Maximum yield is 50 hl/ha. Manual harvesting of grapes is mandatory. Most vines are planted between 300 and 400 meters (to avoid the cool air and frosts of the valley) and face south for maximum sun exposure. The climate of the region is influenced by the Atlantic (bringing a good amount of rain in the spring) and the Mediterranean (which brings warm winds during the late summer months). The nearby Massif Central mountain range also plays a role, creating cold winters and adding a risk of early spring frosts.

The Soil: Underneath the vines lies intensely red soil, rich in color like Georgia clay, which helps imbue Marcillac with an earthy intensity. This iron-rich limestone is locally called rougiers and it will permanently stain your trousers. The iron also lends a blood-like note to vine’s grapes, adding to Marcillac’s complexity and intrigue.

The Grapes: In addition to its special soil, Marcillac’s originality comes from its primary grape, known locally as Mansois, in Gaillac as Braucol, in Madiran as Pinenc—and universally as Fer Servadou. It is part of the Cabernet family, and its name (Fer, meaning “iron”) refers to its sturdy rootstock. The grape gives wines that have deep purple color, with notes of red berries (raspberry, cranberry and strawberry), cherry, a spicy complexity that recalls paprika and black pepper and, at times, a green vegetal note, akin to Cabernet Franc. Underlying it all is an earthy intensity that could be referred to as bloody. With bottle age (5 or 6 years), its beautiful color remains but the red fruit evolves into cassis while retaining its spice. Truly a wine worth putting away for a half decade, it will provide gustatory dividends with minimal financial investment. Legally, Marcillac vineyards must contain at least 90% Mansois. Rarely used complementary grapes include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Presently the cooperative produces 55% of the wine, with 45% divided between about a dozen independent producers.

What to eat while drinking Marcillac: Marcillac wines go well with charcuterie, particularly saucisson and pork or rabbit rillettes. But it also pairs well with pork tenderloin, veal chops and grilled beef. A typical regional dish, Aligot Aveyronnais, is a potato puree with cream into which grated tomme cheese is stirred until the entire mixture stretches and is slapped down onto plates—a peasant’s version of raclette, if you like. Often served with sausages, this is a highly enjoyable winter dish.

Recommended producers in Marcillac
Domaine du Cros: With 24 hectares under vines, Philippe Teulier is the best known producer in Marcillac with more export sales than most of the other independent producers put together. “Lo Sang del Païs” is an excellent entry-level red aged in stainless-steel tanks, with plenty of cassis and black fruits along with spice and licorice. Well-integrated tannin makes this an excellent by-the-glass choice. His “Vieilles Vignes” cuvée is made with vines over 50 years old planted near the top of the slopes. This wine sees a long, 35-day maceration that includes pigeage. It is then aged in old foudres for nearly two years before being bottled. On a cold winter night at the domaine a couple of years ago, I had the fantastic opportunity to taste through nearly 20 different vintages of this wine, most of which were still alive and whose evolutionary pattern showed consistent aromas of cassis, musk, undergrowth, mint and licorice.
-Imported by Wine Traditions Ltd.

Domaine Matha: Jean-Luc Matha is certainly the producer with the most personality in Marcillac. While his mother insisted he study for the priesthood, Matha instead became a clown before returning home several years later to work with his dad in the family vineyard. Plots are scattered around the town of Bruejouls; some are on extremely steep slopes whose only access by four-wheel-drive vehicle is not for the faint-hearted. His vines are massale selections rather than reproductions of single clones, and he ferments in cement and fiberglass tanks with natural yeasts. His cuvée “Lairis” has plenty of red fruit and spices that include paprika and pepper. “Peirafi,” sourced from stonier soils and aged for two years in foudre, is built for the long haul, still showing life ten to fifteen years after being bottled. Matha treats his vintages as if they were his children, recognizing the differences between them and appreciating them all for different reasons. Speaking of children, his son Hugo is making a name for himself as a designer in Paris.
-Imported by Charles Neal Selections

Domaine des Costes Rouges: This small, six-hectare domaine is run by husband and wife Eric and Claudine Vinas, who took over management from her father in 1998. Certified organic since 2009 and proponents of only indigenous yeasts, the couple vinifies their wines in open-topped tanks before aging them in underground cement vessels. Their entry-level wine “Tandem” shows ripe cassis, a touch of herbs and a juicy, peppery finish. “Clos de la Ferrière” comes from a 50-year-old plot with limestone close to the surface. This wine has more structure and benefits from several years aging, after which it is most pleasant with grilled leg of lamb.
-Imported by Charles Neal Selections

Domaine Laurens: This father-son team makes both rosé and a few red wines from their large 21-hectare property. A one-time president of the Cave Cooperative and president of the Marcillac Grower’s Association, Michel Laurens is a grand defender of this small appellation. Working their vineyards sustainably, they make a light Marcillac rouge whose fruit and gentle spice would work well with a light chill. Their “Cuvée de Flars,” aged in oak barrels, has more concentration but less immediate appeal. Their rosés, made by saignée, are deliciously fruity with added spicy complexity.
-No known American importer

Domaine du Mioula: A more recent domaine in Marcillac purchased by businessman Bernard Angles in the mid-1990s, Mioula’s initial wine was produced in 2003. The majority of the 5.5 hectares of vines are massale selections, and some date before phylloxera. Grapes are harvested by hand, fermented in steel and fiberglass tanks, and aged in oak barrels. Production is largely overseen by Patrice Lescaret of Causse Marines in Gaillac. Although these wines have plenty of berry flavors, the oak dominates many of the releases—something that unfortunately cut into much of the wine’s potential pleasure.
-No known American importer

Cahors AOP

While Marcillac, Fronton and Gaillac specialize in eclectic grapes that are rarely seen outside the region, Cahors focuses on Malbec, a grape that has become well known to mainstream consumers. Twenty-five years ago, however, very few Argentinian wines were exported and Malbec was viewed as either a regional southwest grape or one of the permitted varieties in Bordeaux whose importance had declined (much like Petit Verdot) to the point that it was difficult to find even in the Gironde amidst the ocean of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

Cahors is a large town in the Lot département (46). Its white stone buildings stand above the Lot River, which twists its way through the Quercy, a region that combines an austere, stony landscape with wooded areas famous for the growth of black truffles. Like other parts of the Southwest, Cahors also has a strong culinary heritage: duck and game are common, and lamb from Quercy has its own appellation. The local cheese, Rocamadour, is made from goats’ milk.

Unlike Fronton, Gaillac or Marcillac, Cahors is more connected to Bordeaux; châteaux dot the landscape and hint at the region’s important past. Historically, Cahors shipped a large part of its production westward along the river; the Lot connects to the Garonne and leads to Bordeaux. In the 14th century, half the wine shipped out of Bordeaux originated in the Quercy. Russia was a big customer of Cahors—the wines become a favorite of the Orthodox Church and later Tsars. In the 18th century, Bordeaux claret was painfully pale, and the addition of Malbec from Cahors helped concentrate its color, flavor, and ability to age. By the end of the 19th century, wine shipments from the Quercy to Bordeaux drastically declined. While some wine from Cahors was considered black—dark, rough, tannic, and best suited for blending—others were boiled or baked to remove water, fermented and then muted with grape distillate so that they could later be reduced to whatever alcohol level was desired. For the most part, the lofty reputation Cahors once experienced became a memory. As elsewhere in France, phylloxera reared its ugly head here in the late 1800s. But when producers grafted their vines to American rootstock (as was the norm in the country), the vines failed—Malbec was too vigorous for the graft, something that also accentuated its weakness to coulure. The solution was to plant low-quality varieties from other parts of the world; they flourished, but sadly produced non-descript wines.

Cahors was awarded VDQS status in 1951. After the devastating frost of 1956 destroyed countless vineyards, new clones replaced mediocre varieties. It became an AOC in 1971. Producers moved from polyculture to monoculture. Demand at supermarkets around France followed and Cahors became once again significant in the marketplace. The 1980s-1990s saw investment in the region from outside sources, including the former head of Cartier Jewelers, Alain Dominique Perrin, who purchased and restored Château Lagrézette (and used Michel Rolland’s team as enologists). Philippe Lejeune, a tech millionaire, purchased the Château de Chambert and used Stéphane Derenoncourt’s team to consult.

Of course, one cannot overlook the screaming success of Malbec in Argentina when speaking about Cahors today. Most people have never heard of Tannat, Négrette or Braucol, but most stores now have Malbec sections and many restaurants consistently have a Malbec by the glass. Those in Cahors have done their most to capitalize on the grape’s recognition, even coining slogans like “The French Malbec”—something that has undeniably increased sales. This association with Argentina has easily made Cahors the most recognizable wine appellation in Southwest France today. In fact, 30% of Cahors exports go to the United States; we are their second-largest export market behind Canada.

The Stats: Cahors is a red wine-only appellation. 4,000 hectares of red grapes are planted in Cahors, with a maximum yield of 50 hectoliters/hectare. 30 million bottles are produced by 240 independent growers who either sell directly or to négociants (80% of the production) and 20% who are members of local cooperatives. Cahors is responsible for 10% of the world’s production of Malbec.

The Climate: Cahors lies 130 miles from both the Atlantic coast (to the west) and the Mediterranean coast (to the southeast). Summer days are warm and sunny in Cahors and rainfall is significantly lower than in Bordeaux (700 mm annually as opposed to 950 mm in Bordeaux). The climate makes it easier for winemakers to achieve full phenolic ripeness in their grapes but limits the risks of humidity-related vineyard problems.

The Grapes: Legally, a wine from Cahors must contain 70% Malbec, locally known as Cot (or Auxerrois, historically). A member of the Cotoides family of grapes (along with Prunelard, Tannat and Negrette), Malbec is low yielding and relatively low in acid, but its thick skin insures good color and a goodly amount of tannin. The vigorous vine is prone to coulure. Common flavors of young Malbec include blackberry, raspberry, licorice and anise. With some bottle age additional notes of plums, cherry, herbs and wet leaves will emerge. Other permitted varieties in Cahors include Merlot and Tannat. Merlot has less tannin than Malbec and more forward fruit, and it is frequently used to soften entry-level wines so that they are accessible when young. Tannat, the grape of Madiran, is deeper in color and higher in acidity and tannin than Malbec, two factors that limit its use to perhaps 10% of a blend—usually it is saved for wines that are meant to be cellared for several years.

The Soil: Nine different terroirs are divided into four general areas or terraces in Cahors. Vineyards next to the river, perhaps the least esteemed, comprise the first terrace and are composed of alluvial soils that tend to produce simple, fruity wines. Mid-slope vines along the second terrace contain older pieces of limestone within the clay, helping to produce wines with more body. The third terrace, which lies along steeper slopes, contains limestone gravel that covers the clay entirely. Vines from here can undergo hydric stress, which increases the sugar content while retaining acid structure and creates wines with a bit more elegance. The fourth growing area is the plateau, on the flatter ground some 300 meters above the river. While most plots combine and limestone with clay, a few also contain iron-rich soils. The climate is drier on the plateau and a bit cooler, enabling slower ripening and the potential for later harvests than on the other terraces.

Aging Cahors: Cahors, like Madiran, has always been considered and excellent choice for cellaring. Because of Malbec’s thick skin and subsequent tannin, the wine will keep and evolve favorably over the course of 20 years. At Clos de Gamot, former owner Jean Jouffreau hosted a dinner for journalists and friends a couple of decades ago in which he opened bottles of Cahors dating back to the 1920s. Aged in foudre rather than barrel, more than three quarters of the older bottles stood the test of time and retained complex fruit and good acidic balance. Time will tell the if many of the modern cuvées—with their greater extraction, higher alcohol and new oak aging—will be capable of evolving like their more humble predecessors.

Foudre at Clos de Gamot

What to eat while drinking Cahors: Cahors tends to have more finesse than some of the other wines from the Southwest, and the wine pairs more easily with a larger variety of plates. As Cahors can come across like Bordeaux with a bit more grit, the wine can usually be substituted for Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc or Merlot at the table. Leg of lamb, lamb T-bones, hearty dishes that include mushrooms and garlic—all make classic pairings. Thick cuts of beef cooked over a fire are a great match for Cahors. Of course, duck and thick sausages cannot be overlooked, especially when combined with beans in a rich cassoulet.

Differences between Malbec from Argentina and Malbec from Cahors: While the grape is the same, Malbec from Argentina and that from Cahors just don’t taste the same. Soils play a large role: in Mendoza, most soils are alluvial, with a mixture of sand and clay. In Cahors, the soil is more limestone-based and permits the grapes to have more structure. Climate also plays a role in Mendoza, where higher temperatures and customary vine irrigation help to create riper, juicier grapes. In Cahors the grapes tend to be a bit smaller, and they contain more tannin. In comparison with Cahors, the majority of Argentinian Malbec is fruit-forward, less tannic, more alcoholic and shorter on the finish. Cahors, on the other hand, tends to have darker fruit, more grape tannin, less alcohol and a longer finish.

Recommended Producers
Château du Cèdre: Like Le Roc in Gaillac, Pascal and Jean-Marc Verhaeghe rose to prominence in the mid-1990s with highly extracted, heavily oaked blends in the style popularized by other Southwestern producers like Alain Brumont in Madiran. Early pioneers of organic farming in the region and employers of a combination of Bordeaux and Burgundy technology, the brothers now age their wines in larger barrels from Burgundy with lower toast levels, making the wines a little more soave than before. The classic “Château du Cèdre” bottling, made with 90% Malbec and 10% Merlot, is delicious when served alongside grilled lamb chops. “Le Cèdre,” made with 90% Malbec and 5% each of Tannat and Merlot, undergoes an extended maceration with pigeage, malolactic fermentation in barrel, and aging in 225- and 400-liter oak casks for 22 months. This wine, which should be laid down for a decade, has palate-staining fruit that evokes blackberry, mulberry, vanilla and clove, and moderate tannin—it would be an ideal pairing with a thick beef stew or duck confit.
-Imported by Martine’s Wines

Château la Coustarelle: Located just outside the town of Prayssac, Coustarelle is now run by Michel and Nadine Cassot’s daughter Caroline, who makes a couple of good value, finely crafted wines from their 30-hectare estate. The “Tradition,” made with 80% Malbec and 20% Merlot, is aged in tank and explodes with notes of blackberry and licorice. “Grand Cuvée Prestige,” made with 90% Malbec and 10% Tannat, is aged in barrel and is a more serious wine, with deeper, spicier flavors that work perfectly with grilled lamb or roast duck.
-Imported by Charles Neal Selections

Clos la Coutale: This domaine is one of the more widely available Cahors in the States. For years owner Philippe Bernède made just one wine at his large 60-hectare property, aging 80% Malbec and 20% Merlot in a variety of foudres and used barrels. A new wine, “Grand Coutale,” is made with Malbec, Merlot and Tannat, fermented in foudre with pigeage, and aged in new and used barrels for nearly two years. With more structure than the normal bottling, this is built for the long haul. Bernède also has a corkscrew line called “Le Coutale” from which he derives nearly 40% of his income.
-Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant

Domaine Mas del Périé: The domaine is located in Trespoux-Rassiels, the highest-altitude village along the plateau of Cahors. Fabien Jouves took over from his father at this family domaine in 2006 and completely changed its politics, converting to biodynamic viticulture, aging some wines in amphora, minimizing sulfur levels and adopting a more modern, sometimes startling, presentation for his bottlings. Currently at 25 hectares, Jouves is reducing his holdings to 20 hectares and also buys grapes from other agriculturally minded growers. In addition to Malbec, Merlot and Tannat, Jouves has a little of the nearly extinct Jurançon Noir, which he bottles separately. Jouves’ wines often show silky textures not commonly seen within the region. “We’re like a Burgundy domaine in Cahors,” Jouves states. “The most emphasis is on the vines, and we avoid getting too involved in the cellar.” “Les Escures” is made with 100% Malbec, which is half de-stemmed and aged in tank. It has forward notes of black fruits and licorice and is an excellent introduction to the wines of the property. “La Roque” is more serious and sees some barrel aging. Its color is deeper, its texture denser, and its fine tannin more present. “Amphore” comes from grapes grown on iron-rich soils and is aged in amphorae. Its slight volatility gives the fruit a more expansive feel and finer finishing tannins.
-Imported by Return to Terroir and Zev Rovine Selections

Fabien Jouves in Cahors

Château de Haute-Serre (Vigouroux): Owned by the family with the most famous name in Cahors, Vigouroux has been a reputable négociant firm since 1887. Now run by Bertrand Vigouroux, the family vinifies wines from 150 hectares, releasing wines destined for supermarkets along with those from four different estates that show more personality and breed, including Château de Mercuès, Château de Tournelles, Château Leret-Monpezat and Chateau de Haute-Serre. A couple of these have been painstakingly replanted and upgraded, resulting in wines with more purity and focus. Mercuès and Haute Serre also boast hotels and restaurants. Bertrand’s latest project is a collaborative effort with American Paul Hobbs called Crocus (the local name for saffron), which undoubtedly will be directed at a luxury market and bring more American attention to the region. The 60-hectare Haute-Serre now makes a Chardonnay released as IGP Côtes du Lot called “Albesco,” which has notes of flowers, citrus, and honey brittle supported by bright acids—rather Rully-like. The 2011 “Haute-Serre” Cahors shows blackberry, anise and musk flavors wrapped in a velvety texture. The prestige cuvée, named “Géron Dadine” after a 15th-century proprietor of the estate, is fermented and aged in oak barrels. This wine has deeper, thicker fruit and more spice, along with more oak that will need some time to become integrated.
-Imported by Baron Francois

Other Wine-Producing Appellations in the Area

There are about a dozen other growing areas in this part of the Southwest which, apart from a couple, are rarely seen outside the region. They all fill gaps and differ from their more famous neighbors because of their slight variance of permitted varieties and slightly different soils.

Coteaux du Quercy AOP: This red and rosé only-appellation is located south of Cahors as one moves toward Gaillac. The soil is limestone-dominated and the major grape is Cabernet Franc—it must be used in 40% to 60% of the vineyard. Other permitted varieties include Malbec, Tannat, Merlot and Gamay (none of which can exceed 25% of the vineyard or blend). Gamay is being phased out. It obtained VDQS status in 1999 and was granted an AOP in 2011.

Côtes du Lot IGP: This IGP runs along the borders of Cahors and is used for wines of all three colors. Côtes du Lot denominations are most frequently seen on bottles of white or rosé wine made by Cahors producers, or on red wines made with grapes not authorized in Cahors.

Comté Tolosan IGP: Grapes going into these wines can come from ten different départements in the Southwest, ranging from the Pyrénées to the Massif Central. Permitted grapes include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet-Sauvignon, Cot, Duras, Gamay, Merlot, Négrette, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Tannat for reds; and Chardonnay, Chenin, Colombard, Len de l’El, Gros and Petit Manseng, Mauzac, Muscadelle, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Ugni Blanc for whites. Most of the wines bearing this name, however, come from vineyards closer in proximity to Toulouse—often producers in Fronton, Gaillac or Cahors use this IGP to make white wines not authorized by the appellations.

Côtes du Tarn IGP: This former Vin de Pays includes all of Gaillac and 41 other communes to the west, south and east. The IGP permits an inordinate amount of varieties, many of which were abandoned by the Gaillac legislation. Varieties allowed include (for reds) Carignan, Cinsault, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alicante Bouschet, Duras, Egiodola, Fer Servadou, Gamaret, Gamay, Gamay de Bouze, Gamay de Chaudenay, Jurancon Noir, Malbec, Merille, Merlot, Négrette, Tannat, Portugais Bleu, Prunelard and Syrah. Sanctioned varieties for whites include Chardonnay, Chasan, Colombard, Gros Manseng, L’En de l’El, Listan, Mauzac, Mauzac Rose, Ondenc, Muscadelle, Sauvignon, Semillon, Ugni Blanc and Petit Manseng. And you thought Gaillac was difficult to categorize…

Saint-Sardos AOP: This is a red and rosé appellation located on the rolling hillsides just west of Fronton. Syrah must account for at least 40% of the vineyards, accompanied by Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Tannat. The area became a Vin de Pays in 1973, a VDQS in 2005 and AOP in 2011.

Côtes de Millau AOP: This small, easternmost appellation in Southwest France takes its name from the picturesque valley town Millau, whose curve-filled Tarn river crossing has become considerably easier with the opening of the Millau Viaduct. With a tower summit of 1,125 feet above its base, it is the world’s tallest bridge. The vineyards run on each side of the river along terraced, south-facing slopes. Reds (which account for 70% of the region’s production) are made with Gamay and Syrah (each of which must be used in at least 30% of the wine) along with Fer Servadou, Cabernet Sauvignon and Duras. Whites need at least 50% Chenin Blanc, while the rest is composed of Mauzac. The region produces only 250,000 bottles of wine a year.

Entraygues et le Fel AOP: I thought Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh was the winner of the oddest appellation name in France, but this one makes me reconsider. Located about an hour northwest of Marcillac between rivers Truyère and Lot (Entraygues in the local dialect means “between rivers”), the appellation’s vines are planted on a hillside called le Fel within a landscape reminiscent of Marcillac, with its red soils and skeletal terraces once decorated with vines. Red wines and rosés, made with Fer Servadou, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, Jurançon Noir, Pinot Noir and other extremely obscure varieties—several of which are being phased out according to the new cahier des charges—tend to be light and spicy, while the whites, made with Chenin Blanc and Mauzac, are dry and mineral. This tiny appellation includes just 20 hectares.

Wines from the Pyrenees: Going to the Mountaintop to See the Promised Land

Charles Neal — Fri, 20 Dec 2013 18:38:00 GMT

This is the first installment of a three-part series on the wines from Southwest France, a huge area that begins at the Basque border and runs northeast past Toulouse, all the way to Rodez in the Aveyron department. Driving on the autoroute at 70 miles an hour, this west-to-east journey of 360 miles would take approximately 5 hours. To put this into perspective, driving from Chablis to Mâcon in Burgundy takes about half that time on the autoroute, and driving from Strasbourg to Mulhouse in Alsace takes about 2 hours. The only other wine region in France of similar expanse is the Loire Valley.

The Southwest is often erroneously associated with appellations that run along the Mediterranean. While often lumped together, the Southwest has absolutely nothing in common with the Languedoc-Rousillon or Provence and should never be compared to those regions. The soils do not resemble each other, the climate is extremely different, and the varieties of grapes could not be further apart. Attempting to compare the Southwest with the Languedoc or Provence is about as ludicrous as comparing Châteauneuf-du-Pape with the Mosel. Lumping them together is akin to associating Arizona with North Carolina simply because they both lie in the southern part of the United States!

The Southwest can be divided into three distinct regions:

Wines of the East (including Fronton, Gaillac and Marcillac): The wines are generally more fruity and spicy than others in the Southwest.
Wines from the central zone (including Bergerac, Duras, Cotes de Gascogne, Montbazillac, Montravel and a few others): These wines are grown on clay and limestone soils, with grape varieties heavily influenced by Bordeaux.
Wines of the West (including Madiran, Jurançon and Irouléguy, as well as Béarn, Tursan and St. Mont): These appellations see the Pyrénées and are influenced by its mountain climate, and provide a good vantage point from which to begin our exploration of the Southwest.

All told, within the diverse Southwest expanse lie 27 appellations, the majority of which use grapes not found elsewhere. The fact that both the appellations and the grapes are largely unknown is but one of the problems the region experiences. The names of the regions are often hard to pronounce, and the highly acidic and tannic nature of its grapes create other complications. A final difficulty is the remoteness of the region for importers and visitors alike: eight hours from Paris and two hours from Bordeaux, the area is simply isolated from many other wine regions in France.

Yet wines from the Southwest appellations exhibit tremendous personality, distinction and value. There are bottlings from Madiran made from pre-phyllorera Tannat vines and aged in new oak available for under $25 a bottle. Old vine Petit Manseng, harvested in November along impossibly steep slopes, for half the price and twice the interest of Sauternes. Or full-bodied rosés from Irouléguy whose richness makes you consider how frivolous many pink techno wines actually are.

In the interest of full disclosure, I do import many wines from Southwest France into the US, including some of the recommended producers below.

Madiran: The Prince of Darkness, Harvester of Sorrow

All roads lead to Madiran.

Over the past thirty years, Madiran is the appellation of the Pyrénées that has experienced the most worldwide acclaim. Mostly located in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques département (but also spilling into Gers and Hautes-Pyrénées), the landscape is covered with varied polycultural squares, including green cornfields, golden wheat plots, deep green vines and yellow sunflowers spread along the rolling hills. While most grape growers no longer have cows or ducks as a source of income, many still practice polyculture and have parcels of land cultivated for crops other than grapes.

Madiran is the name of a town that lies about 35 miles from the Pyrénées range, and on a clear day the peaks along the chain are clearly visible. Their influence is felt mostly at the end of the growing season when warmer temperatures continue through October and even November. Heading west, the Atlantic Ocean is about 50 miles away, and its proximity attracts a good amount of rainfall during the winter and spring.

Madiran achieved appellation status in 1948, but in the next few ensuing decades, very few producers bottled their own wines and the majority of them were sold in bulk to négociants, who usually blended them with wines from other parts of France. Their deep color and dense structure added body and grip to lighter, over-cropped wines from elsewhere. Locals appreciated the way Madiran worked with the local cuisine—wild pigeons, cèpe (porcini) mushroom stews and, of course, duck.

Madiran experienced a revolution in the 1980s, driven by Alain Brumont at his Château Bouscasse and Château Montus. He employed higher percentages of the local grape Tannat and paid more attention to the raw materials in the vineyard and the winery, managing to produce wines that caught the attention of the worldwide wine press. Before long, many young producers were following suit. New barrels married well with the rustic grape. The molecular chain of Tannat, when exposed to new oak, polymerized its tannins into larger molecules to create a wine that the palate perceived as being softer, more accessible and less rustic.

Micro-oxygenation (micro-ox, micro-bullage), the slow addition of oxygen to either a tank or barrel of wine, was developed in the Madiran region in the early nineties by Patrick Ducournau with help from his cousin Jean-Luc Laplasse. Originally the concept was used to keep the lees fresh, thus avoiding reductive aromas and the need for excessive racking. It later became a method to promote the aging of tannic red wine so that it was more accessible at a younger age. While the technique is now used all over the world, most Madiran producers no longer use it in their barrels, preferring to inject doses of oxygen into their tanks, thus avoiding the risk of prematurely oxidizing their wines.

In the current millenium, health studies have shown that Tannat, because of its exceptionally rich content of polyphenols, plays an essential part in protecting against cardio-vascular disease. The message is clear: drink Madiran! You will live forever!

Stats: The Madiran appellation covers 1,273 hectares, making it about the same size as Pauillac. Maximum yield is 55 hl/ha. All grapes must be destemmed before vinification. Madiran may not be marketed until the first November following the harvest. Annual production is just under 62,000 hectoliters (7,750,000 bottles).

Soil: Clay is the major soil-type in Madiran. Clay retains water well and provides a perfect base for rich, fleshy wines. Three different variations of clay exist in the region: nearly pure clay with very little stone is found in the western part of the appellation; the eastern terrain has clay mixed with iron and magnesium, which often give the wines a more meaty character along with solid tannin; and other areas have sand mixed with clay and small chunks of limestone, which helps give rounder wines that are evolve faster. An impenetrable subsoil called greppe (huge limestone slabs) underlies the entire region.

The Grapes: Four grapes are grown in Madiran, led by Tannat. Once spelled "Tanat," the word means tanned in the Occitan language, in reference to either its deeply-hued leaves or intensely dark grapes. As its name implies, Tannat’s deep skins and small grapes produce wines with high tannins (as well as high acids). Tannat (one of two palindrome grapes!) necessitates careful pruning to limit yields and must be harvested late in order to achieve phenological ripeness (typically during the first couple weeks of October). When mature, red fruit notes may surface but the flavors are normally dominated by brooding black fruits. Tannat must compose at least 50% of a Madiran wine. Cabernet Sauvignon is also widely grown in the region. Part of the Carmenet family and Cabernet Franc x Sauvignon Blanc crossing, Cabernet Sauvignon also produces wines with ample color, tannin and acidity, and a distinctive blackcurrant flavor. Cabernet Franc (which some locals call Bouchy) is also a member of the Carmenet family. Cabernet Franc ripens a little earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat, and usually has a perfume that evokes raspberries—something that adds both lightness and perfume to the beefy Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon. However, many producers now feel that Cab Franc overly dilutes Tannat and have replaced it with Cabernet Sauvignon. The final grape grown in Madiran, although so much in decline that it now makes up just 1% of the plantings, is Fer Servadou, known locally as Pinenc. Fer Servadou was once widely grown around the Southwest but has largely been abandoned everywhere except in Marcillac, where, under the name Mansois, it is the dominant variety. Fer is part of the Carmenet family of grapes and, when ripe, gives aromas of red fruits, cassis, pepper and spice. When under-ripe, its aromas are vegetal, like those of underripe Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc.

The Wines: Madiran wines have a color that is nearly impenetrable and, even with some age, show very little lightening along their rims. A glass filled with a third Madiran and two-thirds water will generally have a darker color than most red wines on their own. The aromas of Madiran are rarely precise: they will display notes of deep, brooding fruit with a nod toward blackcurrant or perhaps blackberry. If we scratch the surface of the dense fruit, an iron- and blood-like richness usually becomes evident. When aged in oak, some vanilla and mocha-like notes will add complexity. Here are some aromas that one might look for when attempting to identify Madiran: Blackcurrant, cocoa, graphite, blackberry, red cherry, prune, blood, iron, menthol, orange peel, sandalwood, tobacco and spice.

Food Pairing: Madiran is not a wine for those interested in elegance and finesse; Madiran is a wine about power, weight and density. Madiran is not a second serve with topspin: Madiran is Novak Djokovic coming at you with a 150-mile-an-hour blast that you attempt to get a racket on. Madiran is not a dancer, it’s a rugby player. I bet that if cavemen drank wine when they were standing around a fire half-naked, ripping raw shards of meat off a freshly killed, prehistoric animal, they would drink wines like Madiran. Madiran attacks, Madiran stains, Madiran takes no prisoners…

Let’s understand that Madiran is not a wine that you have as an apéritif. Madiran might not be the best wine with a chicken breast or veal chop either. But Madiran is a wonderful match for high-protein foods that have a lot of fat around the edges and plenty of flavor. The département in which Madiran lies is the largest producer of duck in France, and the number one producer of foie gras. Foie (liver) is one part of the bird, but the rest is also used: legs for confit, breast for magret and wings in bean preparations like cassoulet. Its cracklings are frequently spread on toast and its carcasses grilled over coals. Because the duck in the Southwest has been force-fed at the end of its life to enlarge its liver, its layer of fat and richness of meat develops more than ducks raised by other means, with a deeper, gamier flavor and chewier texture than duck ordinarily found in the United States.

With a thick, rare slice of duck breast topped with a half inch of crispy fat, wines with a lighter structure (Pinot Noir, etc.) quiver and cry out for mommy. These richly structured proteins require richly structured wines, whose forward tannins converge and allow brooding fruit to surface, bloom and glide across the palate.

Try to think nose-to-tail with Madiran. Serve it with organ meats (liver, tripe, tongue), blood sausage, wild hare, venison, wild boar or game birds. For a bit more mainstream approach, try cuts of lamb that are stronger in taste and fattier, like the leg or shoulder, or cuts of beef like the tri-tip or flank (preferably grass-fed). I think Madiran works extremely well with barbecued brisket or smoked sausage, provided they are not too spicy. Let’s go further: hearty bean dishes like cassoulet, a fatty duck breast or a bubbling lamb moussaka. Just because Madiran is big and mean-looking doesn’t mean you need to be afraid of it. It could become your best friend.

Aging Madiran: Because of the high acidity and tannin of Tannat, Madiran has what it takes to age over the course of a couple of decades. The question remains: “does the wine age gracefully during that period?” My experience is that the wine begins to lighten gradually at the rim and some tannin begins to shed away, leaving us with fruit that is still dark but less brooding. The wines seem to follow the path of a Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux, like an Haut-Médoc, with complex, earthy elements that complement its black fruits. I tend to prefer younger Madiran, that is between three and ten years old—especially when made with riper grapes and a judicious amount of oak. These show dense fruit enveloped by more tamed tannins and sexy vanilla notes. Big wines, yes, but those that can revitalize the senses, awaken the palate and display fruit that is not only rich but also creamy.

Recommended Madiran Producers

Domaine Capmartin: Guy Capmartin had certain ideas that he wanted to pursue during the early 1980s (higher percentages of Tannat in the blend, longer macerations, more new oak) that his father wouldn’t permit, so he decided to create his own domaine just up the road. It now covers 18 hectares and became certified organic in 2010. His Vieilles Vignes cuvée, made with Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon vines between 60 and 150 years of age, and aged in second- and third-use oak, is big and spicy and offers excellent value. The Cuvée de Couvent, named after the old convent next to the winery, is made with pure Tannat and aged entirely in new oak. This is a great wine to put away for ten years to see what will develop. Imported by Charles Neal Selections (various states).

Domaine Labranche-Laffont: Christine Dupuy is one of the few women winemakers in Madiran and she owns the 20-hectare Domaine Labranche-Laffont in Maumusson (Gers). Fresh out of enology school, she took over the domaine in 1992 after the death of her father. As the harvest nears, she continuously tastes grapes and their seeds to get the ripest tannins possible. She makes a couple of red wines and a couple of white Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh as well. The Vieilles Vignes cuvée, made with the oldest vines on the property (including some vines planted before phylloxera), is deep in both color and fruit and has big but manageable tannin. Importers include Barrique Imports (WA), Vintage 59 Imports (CA), Wine Without Borders (NC), MS Walker (NY and NJ), Bacchus (DC area).

Domaine Berthoumieu: Didier Barré was one of the new wave of vignerons inspired by Alain Brumont in the early 80s. He sustainably farms 26 hectares of vines in Viella, along the Gers/Pyrenee Atlantique border. His Charles de Batz cuvée, named after the muskateer D’Artignan, is made with 90% Tannat and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. A 30-day fermentation with punchdowns is followed by a year in new and second-use barrels. It shows brooding dark fruit, vanilla and prune flavors. MCM, made with Tannat grapes planted in 1900, is dense yet savory. Importers include PS Wines (OR), Charles Neal Selections (various states), and Aventine Hill (CT).

Château d’Aydie: Frederic Laplasse founded this domaine in 1927 and his four grandchildren now run this large 58-hectare domaine in the central part of the appellation. Jean-Luc Laplasse is one of the more innovative producers in the region: he helped develop micro-oxygenation, and introduced high-density plantings to allow for more concentrated grapes. The domaine produces a number of different wines that hit a wide variety of price points and structure levels. Made with 100% Tannat grown on clay, limestone, gravel, and stony soils, the Château d’Aydie Madiran is aged in tank and barrel for 12 to 15 months then held for another six months before being released. It is dark, solid and has a glycerin-rich texture that oozes notes of black fruits, coffee and vanilla. Possible to drink now with the appropriate foods, this wine should age gracefully for a decade. It is worth mentioning that the Laplasse family also vinifies the wines from Patrick Ducournau’s properties, Chapelle Lenclos and Domaine Mouréou. Ducournau, along with his micro-oxygenation company, also has a warehouse that produces wood chips (from which he makes more money than he could ever imagine as a winemaker). Importers include Cream Wine (IL), LVDH (metro DC area), Polaner Wines (NY and NJ), The Wine Company (MN) and Vins du Midi (OR).

Domaine Bouscassé and Château Montus: One can’t ignore the importance that Alain Brumont has had on the Madiran appellation. In fact, a strong argument could be made that if it weren’t for Brumont, the Madiran appellation would be about as well known as Saussignac. Son of a vigneron, young Alain inherited the 17-hectare Bouscassé property in 1979. Largely self-taught, he began employing Bordeaux techniques into his winemaking, and started to include new oak and higher proportions of Tannat. The following year, the driven Brumont purchased the nearby Château Montus. Brumont presented the 1982 to the Madiran syndicate who barely awarded it the appellation because of its lack of typicity. Nevertheless, Brumont followed his instincts and released the 1985 Montus to high acclaim. His fame exploded when an independent panel sliped the wine into a Grand Cru Bordeaux tasting, where it finished in the top three. Since that time, Gault-Milau magazine selected him as their 1980s Winemaker of the Decade (following Guigal in the 70s) and Revue des Vins de France chose him as Winemaker of the Year in 1995. Since his start, Brumont has acquired 355 hectares in Madiran and also vinifies 220 hectares in the Côtes de Gascogne, marketing 23 different wines from his properties. He has several modern wineries, some 80 employees and, at 67 years old, still sleeps only five hours a night while inspiring those around him during the day. His tireless efforts to promote the region and his wines have brought worldwide attention to the appellation from writers and sommeliers who have come to view the regional wines as world class contenders rather than rustic country wines. Highlights include Torus, an openly fruity blend of the three grapes made at a coop that Brumont unofficially directs, Bouscassé Vieilles Vignes, made with 100% Tannat and showing profound black fruits that glide along an elegant texture, and the Montus Cuvée Prestige, another 100% Tannat wine that, because of its stonier soil, is highly structured and built for the long haul. Imported by Vigneron Imports (various states) and J & J Importers (various states).

Chateau Barrejat: Domaine Barrejat was founded by Maurice Capmartin, but with his older son’s departure, it is has been run for the past couple of decades by his other son Denis. 80% of the domaine’s vines produce red grapes, and some of them easily predate the phylloxera period. The Vieux Ceps release comes from 80- to 200-year-old vines and is made with 80% Tannat and 20% Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc. Aged in new oak, it has notes of preserved black fruits, exotic vanilla and ripe tannin that builds on the finish. Imported by Europvin (various states).

Top to bottom: Alain Brumont, Pre-phylloxera vines at Domaine Barrejat, Jean-Luc Laplasse

Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh

Also established in 1948, this curiously named appellation shares the exact borders with Madiran, but is only for white wine. As we’ll see in Jurançon, dry wines are released as Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec, and sweet wines as Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Doux. Most claim that the name Pacherenc comes from the phrase piques en rang ("poles in a row"), in which vines along the rolling hills were attached to wooden stakes in rows, instead of being planted in the random, haphazard traditional style. Vic-Bilh derives from the local patois and means "old country." Alternatively, some claim that Pacherenc is a synonym for Arrufiac, which was once the most important white grape in the region. Today, Pacherenc is greatly overshadowed by Madiran production, and only 20% of the region’s wine is white. None of the 45 producers in the region make only Pacherenc; they all make Madiran as well.

Like in Jurançon, sweet wines traditionally dominated the appellation, but dry wines have become more important in concert with consumption trends. Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng (more on these later) are almost always employed, along with a hefty percentage of Petit Courbu and the local Arrufiac. Part of the Carmenet ampelographic group, Arrufiac can bring fine floral aromas and bright acidity to blends, along with a hint of tannic grip. Its bunches are big, yet its grapes are quite small, and it is susceptible to mildew and gray and black rot. While it has been greatly overshadowed by Courbu and the Mansengs, some producers like the masculine complexity that Arrufiac lends to their blends. In addition, Sauvignon Blanc can be employed in the wines, but its usage cannot exceed 10% of the wine.

Dry Pacherenc is less racy than dry Jurançon. These wines can be quirky, with flavors reminiscent of the white underripe part of a pineapple, a hint of flowers and plenty of citrus-tinged acidity. They are usually aged in stainless steel; however, when oak is judiciously employed an extra layer of complexity can be achieved. Sweet Pacherenc delivers similar flavors to the wines of sweet Jurançon, albeit with less acidity and cut. They are normally less expensive than Jurançon as well, which certainly has appeal to many consumers. The wines ordinarily exhibit caramelized pineapple notes, moderate sugar levels (60-80 grams per liter), and enough acidity to support the sugar. The wines will age well for several years, but are generally to be drunk within five years of release.

Stats: The Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh vineyards cover the same territory as the Madiran appellation, but 260 hectares are currently planted with white grapes (about the same amount as Quincy in the Loire). Maximum yield is 60 hl/ha for the dry wines and 40 hl/ha for the sweet wines. Production is about 10,500 hectoliters (1,312,000 bottles) a year.

Recommended Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Producers

Château d’Aydie: The Odé d’Aydie Pacherenc Sec is made with 60% Petit Manseng and 40% Gros Manseng. Aged in both tank and barrel, it shows notes of exotic fruit and vanilla, and possesses a lovely, elegant texture, finishing with good length.

Domaine Bouscassé: Alain Brumont makes his dry Pacherenc from 100% Petit Courbu and ages it in stainless steel, letting it rest for two years on its fine lees. It is fresh, medium- to full-bodied, and refreshes the palate with pineapple and citrus notes before finishing with excellent length. His sweet Pacherenc, from pure Petit Manseng harvested in November, is aged in new oak and shows preserved pineapple and crème brulée flavors, with enough supporting acidity to invite another sip.

Domaine Berthoumieu: Didier Barré’s Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Symphonie d’Automne, made with 90% Petit Manseng and 10% Petit Coubu (grapes harvested between November and December), shows notes of acacia flowers, pineapple and toast.

Domaine Laffitte-Teston: This venerable producer, located next to Chateau Bouscassé, also makes excellent red wines. His dry Cuvée Ericka, named after after proprietor Jean-Marc Laffitte’s daughter, is made with 70% Petit Manseng, 20% Gros Manseng and 10% Petit Courbu, all of which are harvested late and vinified dry. Aged in a good proportion of new oak, this wine explodes with pineapple and citrus notes, given complexity by accompanying vanilla and toasty flavors. Imported by Wine Traditions (various states).

Jurançon

If Madiran is the king of red wines in the Pyrénées, then Jurançon is the king of whites. In fact, Jurançon has regal connections: legend claims that in 1553, Henry IV, later King of France, had garlic rubbed on his lips followed by a few drops of Jurançon sweet wine during his baptism. The ritual was said to enhance his vigor and catapulted Jurançon to became known as the noble wine of French kings.

Jurançon is also the name of a town that sits a few miles south of Pau, the city known as the gateway to the Pyrénées. Cycling fans are often treated to a Tour de France stage start or finish in this city of 85,000 people, who consider themselves Bearnais rather than Basque or Gascon. Local cuisine combines the two regions, with plenty of duck-based dishes echoing Gascony, and plenty of ham and sheep’s milk cheeses recalling the Pays Basque.

Most producers divide Jurançon into two zones which lie at opposite sides of the appellation: La Chapelle de Rousse and Monein. Along the ridges above the town of Jurançon, around a third of the appellation’s producers are located near the village La Chapelle de Rousse. Many of the vineyards in this area are carved into the hillsides, creating what looks like amphitheaters curving along the slopes. This helps give the vines maximum sun exposure along the steep pitches. Because of its higher altitude (vineyards are often at 300 to 400 meters), wines from this area tend to have the highest acidity in the region. Soils around La Chapelle de Rousse are arid, with layers of baseball-sized pudding stones embedded into the soil. These provide excellent drainage for the vines, and also help promote considerable structure and acidity.

About 30 kilometers northwest lie the vineyards surrounding the town of Monein, around which the majority of Jurançon's winemakers are located. Many of these producers also grow other crops or raise cattle, and sell their grapes to the cooperative in Gan. Soils around Monein are richer than La Chapelle de Rousse, composed of clay mixed with limestone galets and sandstone molasse. Monein has an altitude about 150 meters lower than La Chapelle de Rousse, and the vineyards generally follow the contours of the hills rather than being dug into them. The lower altitude allows for a milder climate and also gives the wines slightly less acidity than those from the more southerly La Chapelle, with harvest occurring two to three weeks earlier here as well.

The vines in both zones usually face south and are trained six or seven feet high, to avoid damage from spring frosts and to maximize sun exposure within the sometimes gray and moist foothills. The appellation decree warrants, as in Irouléguy, that the grapes are harvested by hand.

Jurançon, like the other appellations in the Pyrénées, is influenced by both an oceanic climate (with some 1,200 mm. of annual rain) and a mountainous climate (with warm winds from North Africa traversing the mountains during the months of September, October and early November). These Foehn winds allow growers to leave fruit on the vines late in the season until it shrivels and concentrates the sugar within the grapes, creating some of the world’s finest and unique dessert wines. About 60% of Jurançon’s production is sweet (released as Jurançon), with the remaining 40% of the grapes vinified dry and released as Jurançon Sec.

Stats: The Jurançon vineyards cover 932 hectares (about the size of Tavel). Maximum yield is 40 hl/ha for the sweet wines and 60 hl/ha for the dry wines. Hand-harvesting is obligatory. Production is about 50,000 hectoliters of wine a year (6,250,000 bottles).

The Grapes: Out of all the Pyrénées appellations, Jurançon has the most rare and unique grapes, seldom seen elsewhere. Petit Manseng makes up 40% of the plantings and is a grape capable of developing high sugar levels without losing its crisp, refreshing acidity. Petit Manseng can either be picked earlier for dry wines or later for sweet wines. Its versatility (and often its aromatics) remind many tasters of demi-sec or sweet Chenin Blanc, albeit with less apple nuance and chalky minerality. The hallmark of Petit Manseng is its balance of exotic sweetness and elevated acidity that rarely make the wines come across as cloying. Typical aromas include pineapple (often the white rather than golden part of the fruit) and, with aging, more tropical notes including papaya, mango, and truffles. A grape used principally for late-harvested sweet wines, its small yet loosely-formed grapes combined with thick skins inhibit the botrytis fungus from developing. In fact, the because of the region’s high altitude and lack of fog-attracting rivers, noble rot never affects these late-harvest wines. Instead, concentration is gained through the technique of passerillage, when the vine stems are pinched (often with a pair of pliers) to cut off circulation, allowing the grapes to stay on the vine and further dehydrate. While most grapes for sweet wines will be harvested in October, some are harvested as late as November or early December. Gros Manseng is a grape whose existence was documented in the late 1700s and today makes up 55% of the region’s plantings. Its leaves are larger than those of Petit Manseng, and its larger grapes are also more susceptible to mildew and esca (the wood-rotting fungus). Gros Manseng is largely used today for dry wines aged in stainless steel, wherein its golden color offers aromas of passionfruit and flowers with plenty of buttressing acidity. Many producers make their basic dry wines from pure, tank-aged Gros Manseng, and another, more gastronomic cuvée blending the two Mansengs, often aged in oak. Gros Manseng is to be found more and more in the nearby Côtes de Gascogne, where its higher alcohol tends to flesh out and add complexity to those wines made with Ugni Blanc and Colombard. Petit Courbu produces small grapes in very tight bunches that resemble pine cones. Petit Courbu grapes are more tightly packed than the Mansengs and are highly susceptible to gray rot. While difficult to find in the region nowadays, some growers like it because its lower alcohol and acidity tames that of the higher Mansengs. Gros Courbu, often abreviated as simply Courbu (a variation of the French word courbe or curve, a reference to its curved vine shoots), gives less alcohol and higher yields than its sibling Petit Courbu. Although not much is planted anymore, Courbu Blanc can be recognized because of its darker leaves, especially during the spring season. It can be used for either sweet or dry wines. Camaralet (Camaralet de la Soube) is another grape not often seen, but a few winemakers have recently replanted this grape; it gives good levels of alcohol and good body but less complexity than the Mansengs. It is very susceptible to rot during flowering, and thus very irregular in its production. Producers who have this grape often claim its planting may have been a mistake as they only get one decent harvest every few years! Lauzet, a highly productive vine that has good resistance to gray rot, is another grape that has nearly disappeared. Never seen on its own, it works well in blends because of its rich alcohol and spice notes. Like Camaralet, Petit Courbu and Gros Courbu, Lauzet is harvested before either of the Mansengs.

The Dry Wines: Dry Jurançon was not seen in the region until the 1960s and 1970s, when consumers began demanding drier wines and the cooperative realized that immediate consumption made the appellation more financially viable. Jurançon Sec was granted status under the appellation in 1975. Two types of cuvées are often made by producers. The first type, pure Gros Manseng aged in stainless steel, is usually quite simplistic with notes of passionfruit and apple flavors balanced by very taught acidity. These wines, like Muscadet or Txocholi, are excellent with shellfish or white river fish. The second type of Jurançon Sec is much more interesting, both aromatically and texturally. These wines usually see two or three grape varieties blended together and are often aged in barrel, which marries their exotic fruit nuances to the vanilla and spice flavors imparted by the oak. These are kinky wines; they smell sweet but intense acids enable the wines to finish completely dry. Food accompaniments here move up a notch: meaty white fish in a sauce, scallops, lobster, veal sweetbreads, pork roast with exotic fruits, or a veal tajine.

The Sweet Wines: The region’s most traditional wines are normally made with 50-80% Gros Manseng. These wines generally have 40-50 grams per liter of residual sugar and are referred to locally as vins de l’apres-midi (wines of the afternoon). The Béarnais might drink these wines while playing cards on Saturday evening or after an afternoon walk on Sunday. They are the most common apéritif wine in the region, with aromas ranging from spicy apple to pineapple, and acids that keep the texture from becoming too heavy (think somewhere between Spätlese and Auslese Riesling). A glass of this style of Jurançon is very pleasant with biscotti or almond cookies. More modern styles are usually much richer in sugar than their traditional counterparts (90 grams per liter or so) and have a thicker texture. Usually made with pure Petit Manseng and aged in newer oak, these wines have deeper and more exotic fruit nuance, and their weight is always buttressed by the lovely Manseng acids. Most of these cuvées are given a proprietary name by their producers, such as Supreme, Magendia or Extreme, and they have long potential lifespans, normally up to 25 or 30 years when cellared properly. Flavors in Jurançon sweet wines, which must be considered among the world’s elite, include dried pear, tea, nougat, caramel, golden raisins, preserved lemon, dried fig, vanilla, hazelnuts, preserved mandarine, black truffles, white truffles, almonds, mango, papaya, guava, pineapple, brown sugar, creme brulée, preserved orange, cinnamon, clove, acacia and honeysuckle.

A growing trend in years (when weather allows it) is for growers to push the late harvest card and leave the grapes on the vines until the end of November or early December, arriving with wines in the 135-150 g/l range of residual sugar, whose viscosity and sweetness never feels too heavy or cloying. Such wines can be labeled "Vendanges Tardives."

Food Pairings for Sweet Jurançon: The classic match for foie gras is a sweet wine. Sauternes is the usual suspect but, because of its bright acids, Jurançon actually works better because it is able to cut through some of the foie’s richness. It would obviously work as well with many desserts containing some of the above flavors, provided that the dessert is less sweet than the wine.

Recommended Jurançon Producers

Clos Lapeyre: Jean-Bernard Larrieu is a well liked and frequently written about vigneron located in La Chapelle de Rousse. In the past decade he has converted his 17-hectare property from sustainable to organic viticulture—not an easy task with the region’s tremendous humidity. Jean-Bernard makes three dry whites, including Vitage Vielh ("old vine" in Occitan), the product of 65-year-old Manseng(s) and Courbu vines. Aging takes place in 400-liter barrels and foudre, yielding a wine with bright pineapple, vanilla and mineral complexity. Montoulon is made with 70% Petit Manseng, along with Petit Courbu and Camaralet, and is grown in a more recently planted, high-density vineyard. Aged entirely in new oak, this wine is full-bodied, complex and very long. The sweet Magendia is made with pure Petit Manseng, harvested after passerillage, with the ripest bunches cut after several passes through the vineyard. Bursting with exotic fruits (guava, dried pineapple) and a hint of creme brulée, this wine retains great acidity that prevents it from being cloying. Imported by Charles Neal Selections (various states), Savio Soares and Fruit of the Vine (New York) and Oz Wines (MA).

Carmin Laredya: This 9-hectare domaine is located next to Clos Lapeyre in La Chapelle de Rousse. Jean-Marc Grussaute has assumed control over the forty-year-old vines his father had planted on terraced, amphitheater-shaped slopes. His dry wine, called La Part Davan, is made with 60% Petit Manseng, 25% Gros Manseng and 15% Petit Courbu aged in foudre. It has bright acids that help lift the white peach and floral aromas. His Jurançon sweet wine is delicious, made with a bit more Petit Manseng than Gros Manseng. Emphasizing peach more than pineapple, its 60 grams of residual sugar make it a great apéritif or partner to brebis cheese. The moelleux Au Capceu is made with 100% Petit Manseng and fermented and aged in new barrels. It shows thick pineapple fruit buttressed by bright acids that will ensure a graceful development in bottle. Imported by Wine Traditions (various states).

Domaine Cauhapé: Henri Ramonteu is a bit to Jurançon what Alain Brumont is to Madiran—a pioneering producer and a very talented winemaker whose exceptional sweet wines were among the first of the appellation to enjoy worldwide press. He was the first in the appellation to make white wines in oak and to barrel-ferment his sweet wines, and has always been open to ideas from outside the region that might make his wines better (his son owns a winery in New Zealand called Dada). With 43 hectares, Cauhapé (pronounced Cow-ho-pay) is two or three times the size of other Jurançon domaines. Cauhapé often employs maceration pelliculaire (cold soak) with plenty of skin contact to augment aromatic potential for his dry whites, and uses attractive modern packaging. The Chant des Vignes Sec, made with Gros Manseng and 40% Camaralet, has plenty of grapefruit and primary aromas, with just a hint of residual sugar. The Seve d’Automne Sec, made with Gros and Petit Manseng, is harvested later and aged in older barrels, with grapefruit and candied-fruit flavors. The Ballet d’Octobre is old-school Jurançon with great balance between sugar and acid and is a nice partner to spicy Asian-influenced dishes. The Nobelsse du Temps is made with pure Petit Manseng, picked in December. Dried pineapple, brown sugar, creme brulée, hazelnuts and vanilla highlight this awesome sweet wine. The top wine, Quintessence, harvested around Christmas with yields under 10 hl/ha, is a meal in itself, with rich, syrupy fruit buttressed by gentle acidity. Importers include Arborway (MA), Michael Skurnik Wines (NY and NJ), Wine Company (MN), Planet Wines (CA), Bandol Wines (TX).

Clos Uroulat: Son of a vigneron, Charles Hours became the enologist at the cave coopérative in Gan where his father sold grapes. In 1983, Charles bought 3.5 hectares of vines, and within a decade doubled his holdings, built a new chai de vinification, and become one of the region’s producers most touted by France’s wine press. He now organically farms a total of 16 hectares along with his daughter Marie and another partner. Marie has taken a decidedly modern approach to her wines, employing trendy labels and giving her wines names like Happy Hours. Charles is more traditional, making a dry cuvée named after his daughter with pure Gros Manseng aged in oak. Full of juicy fruit, peach, vanilla and bright acids, this is reminiscent of a white Crozes Hermitage and makes a wonderfully accompaniment to rich fish dishes in sauce. The Clos Uroulat sweet wine, made with pure Petit Manseng, is full of pineapple sauteed in butter and vanilla flavors, delicately lifted by bright acids. Imported by Martine’s Wines (various states).

Domaine Bellegarde: A couple of kilometers from Monein, along the same slope as Clos Uroulat, Pascal Labasse sustainably farms 15 hectares covered with silt, clay and pudding stones. He produces two dry and three sweet wines. Pierres Blanches sec, made with 70% Petit and 30% Gros Manseng, has focused pineapple and vanilla flavors and finishes with a touch of spice. Thibault, named after his son who now works alongside him, is his top sweet wine produced in most vintages. Made with pure Petit Manseng and fermented and aged in new oak, this wine offers up flavors of mandarin orange, peach, mango, pineapple and a hint of red fruit. A bottle of 1988 was deep in color, with aromas of roasted pineapple, black truffle and brown sugar, with enough acidity left to warrant a second glass. Imported by Charles Neal Selections (various states).

Vineyards near La Chapelle de Rousse; Jurançon Moelleux from the late 1980s

Irouléguy

When most people think of Basque country, they usually think of Spain. But 15% of the Pays Basque lies within the current French border, running from the coastal towns of Bayonne, St-Jean-de-Luz and Hendaye inland along the Pyrénées. This amazing part of France includes white sand beaches where international surfing competitions take place, as well as sparsely traveled, twisting mountain roads that offer wild, breathtaking views.

The French side of the Basque country has one wine appellation, Irouléguy, tucked within the valley that runs between St-Jean-Pied-de-Port and St-Étienne de Baïgorry, about 50 kilometers from the ocean. This area is famous for its dried Bayonne ham, brebis sheep’s milk cheese and piment d’espelette, a spicy powder made from ground small red peppers.

Romans have made wine in this mountainous region since the 3rd century. Subsequent centuries saw the development of several monasteries in the region, which provided wine for pilgrims traveling along the Route de Saint Jacques that runs from central France and through Northern Spain to Santiago de Campostello. The region’s peak production came during the 17th century, when more than 500 hectares were covered with vines. Mining in the 18th and 19th centuries kept production and consumption levels high. During this period, a wide range of local grape varieties were planted, including Bordelesa Beltza (Tannat), Axeria (Cabernet Franc), Axeria Handia (Cabernet Sauvignon) and white grapes Xuri Zerratia (Courbu), Izkiriota Ttipia (Petit Manseng) and Izkiriota (Gros Manseng) along with the more obscure Kroxenta, Pikapota, Kamalua, Mantzinga, Erre Mantxaua and Pino Beltza.

Phylloxera wiped out many of the vineyards and a decline in industry gave little reason to replant the land. Raising sheep became the preferred livelihood for most farmers, yet many continued to grow grapes and make wine that was either sold in bulk or kept for home drinking. A cooperative was set up in 1958, offering more modern production facilities and an outlet to market the region’s wines. But even the cooperative sold most of its wines in bulk to third-party négociants, who blended them with wines from other regions of France. Just about all the grapes grown were red and included the southwest stalwart Tannat along with Bordeaux varieties Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

In the 1980s, things began to change within the appellation. Etienne Brana, a wine producer, distiller and négociant in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, began carving terraces into the side of a hillside that followed the curve of the terrain. By creating flat land between the rows, tractors were able to work between the vines, something that enabled producers to double and triple the amount of land they could farm. Before long, terraces began climbing up the sides of the verdant hills, and wine production in Irouléguy dramatically rose. Today about 70% of Irouleguy’s wine is grown on horizontal terraces, while 30% is grown on vines that follow the slopes of the hills. The terraces rise from 100-450 meters above sea level. They cover a number of soil types, all of which give a particular character to the wines. These include limestone, a sedentary rock with calcium and iron that brings roundness and elegance. Orphite, a second soil, is a volcanic rock containing iron oxide that was historically piled under railroad tracks. It brings structure and power to the wines and is found mostly in the southwestern part of the appellation. A third soil, gres rouge, is a metamorphic rock composed principally of quartz and mica, often used to construct door and window frames that adorn the region’s houses. Hard, acidic and red in color, grapes grown on this soil always have bright acidity.

Irouléguy has a climate influenced by both the mountains and the Atlantic. Its hot and dry autumns marked by southern winds help prolong its growing season.

Stats: The Irouléguy vineyards cover 214 hectares (about the size of Volnay). Maximum yield is 55 hl/ha. Production is about 6,400 hectoliters a year (800,000 bottles), of which nearly 90% is red or rosé.

The Grapes: The bulk of production in Irouléguy is red. Most producers have a number of parcels scattered around their villages and their blends often vary widely from year to year, depending on climatic conditions. 2013, for example, will have less Cabernet Franc because of rot at the beginning of the campaign. The stone in the soils gives the reds a mineral quality and delicacy unlike those found in either Béarn or Madiran. The Cabernet Franc influence also makes Irouléguy wines a bit lighter on their feet than their neighbors. That is not to say that Irouléguy is a light, fruity wine—it is still hearty, earthy and somewhat rustic. It simply has more red fruit than its Pyrénées brethren, and is a bit less mid-palate.

The Wines: Red Irouléguy wines normally display a deeply-colored robe that is opaque in its youth. Aromas and flavors typically include wild raspberry, black currant, iron, black cherry, licorice, blood and prune. The wines are medium to full-bodied, with acidity that helps lift the fruit and lighten its tannin. Because of its lighter tannins and bright acids, Irouléguy reds usually work well at the table and are light enough to possibly pour by the glass. They don’t necessitate the strongly flavored meats that Madiran shines with, and make good partners for pork roasts, lamb chops or squab. Rosé has also been popular for some time in the region, aided by the summer demand from la côte Basque. Deep in color, full-bodied and capable of aging, its closest equivalent in France would probably be Tavel—albeit with slightly lower alcohol. These rosés have some tannin to them and are polar opposites to pale, delicate rosés from Provence. Like the Basques themselves, these wines are bold and rugged, characteristics that match perfectly with grilled meats and charcuterie, in summer or in winter.

A tendency over the past decade has been for vignerons to plant more white grapes, notably Petit Manseng and Petit Courbu. These are used for dry white wines that are sometimes aged in older oak barrels. These wines have good texture, with high-pitched floral notes solidified by apple aromas. The dry whites normally take a number of years in bottle to show their best, as they are relatively austere in their youth, and often display apple-malic notes. With two or three years of bottle age, the palate expands to display riper apple, orange and pineapple fruit with an iodine-like salinity. Like many Jurançon wines, Irouléguy whites often have a nose suggests they have some residual sugar, yet on the palate the acids kick in and bring mineral and salty qualities to the very dry finish.

Recommended Irouléguy Producers

Domaine Etxegaraya: Joseph Hillau grew grapes and sold them to the cooperative beginning in 1976. In 1995 he built a winery and began making his own wine on his 7.5-hectare property. In 2006, Joseph unexpectedly died in a tractor accident, leaving his wife Marianne in charge of the domaine. His daughter Carolyne has recently joined her, although they have diminished their vineyard holding to 4.5 hectares. Etxegaraya, meaning the house above, farms sustainably and does not use oak barrels. Their red Classique shows round red and black fruits with integrated tannins and would make a fun glass pour. Lehengoa is made with 80% Tannat from 150-year-old vines. It has more structure and depth than the first wine, although Marianne still recommends drinking it in its first five years of life. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant (various states).

Cave Coopérative d’Irouléguy: The cave has played an important role in the development of wines from the region, making them available to a wider market at an affordable price. Its 130 members average just over a hectare of vines each, and a total of about 650,000 bottles are released each year, divided between 12 different wines. The Argi d’Ansa rosé, made with 80% Tannat and 20% Cabernet Franc, has a beautiful deep color and delicious red fruit and floral notes. The reds are solid, although most are a bit heavy-handed with their usage of oak. Like many co-ops, wines are made according to market tendencies, which perhaps accounts for an unusual sparkling wine, a pale Provencal- colored rosé, and certain bottles with rather shocking modern packaging. Imported by Chrissa Imports (CA).

Domaine Ameztia: Jean-Louis Costera and his nephew Guxan make just over 2,000 cases a year from seven hectares of vines that they farm sustainably. “The right path is the one in which we are not sure of its destination,” Jean-Louis poetically states, proud of the fact that he is often uncertain of the results he will have. His 2011 white wouldn’t ferment drier than 16 grams of sugar, thus denying it the appellation (although, in his opinion, it’s the best wine he’s made to accompany the local brebis). The tight winery is impressive, with a sorting table and a lineup of small stainless steel tanks alongside a few barrels. He used micro-oxygenation for several vintages but has since abandoned it. He looks for elegance in Tannat, stating that the grape is: “A bit like a Basque person. If you scratch it a bit, there is some tenderness underneath.” Imported by de Maison Selections (various states).

Domaine Arretxea: Michel Riouspeyrous began making wine from a couple of hectares of rented vines that he vinified at neighboring Domaine Ilarria in 1989. In 1993 he started his own domaine across the road at Arretxea ("house of stone"). Michel and his wife Thérèse now own eight hectares, and buy grapes from four more. They have been certified organic since 1998 and currently work biodynamically. While producing excellent red wines, they have gained an especially strong reputation for their whites, including Hegoxuri ("white from the south") made with 55% Petit Manseng, 42% Gros Manseng and Petit Courbu. It shows notes of apple and pineapple and, tasted blind, reminds one of Chenin Blanc. In an effort to further understand their terroir, they have also released three whites from the region’s three different soil types, aged in foudre. Vintages with three or four years of bottle age were more aromatic and exotic, with a more mineral and Riesling-like oiliness. The classic red, made with equal proportions of Cabernet Franc and Tannat (with about 15% Cabernet Sauvignon), has plenty of raspberry and strawberry fruit on the nose, a medium-bodied palate with bright acidity, and light finishing tannins. Haitza ("oak") is made with a heavier proportion of Tannat and is aged in 400- and 600-liter barrels for 18 months. It is more dense and has deeper fruit, along with a hint of cassis, mountain herbs, and oak. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant (various states).

Domaine Ilarria: Peio Espil founded his domaine in the late 1980s after returning from the peace corps in Africa, and now farms 10 hectares of vines organically. The majority of his vineyards lie on clay and limestone rather than gres rouge, something he feels adds finesse to his wines. Yields are low, usually in the 30 to 35 hl/ha range. His white is made with 60% Petit Courbu and 40% Petit Manseng and sees 12 hours of skin contact. Built to be consumed several years after the harvest, this wine has rich apple-scented fruit, an oily texture and a long, bright finish. His rosé is one of the benchmarks of the region, and is made with Tannat and about 30% Cabernet Franc. It has a deep color, cherry and blood orange-scented fruit and notes of river stones. It is a good rosé to reach for when the weather turns cold. Two reds are made with varying proportions of Tannat, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon (depending upon the harvest), Classique and Bixintxo. The Classique is aged in both tank and a small quantity of older oak barrels. It is weighty yet bright, with integrated tannins: a good by-the-glass candidate. Bixintxo ("St. Vincent") normally includes more Tannat in the blend and undergoes longer aging in older casks, resulting in a denser and more structured wine best reserved for grilled red meats. Imported by PS Wines (various states), Charles Neal Selections (various states).

Domaine Brana: Jean Brana runs this domaine established by his father in 1984, several years before his untimely and sudden death. The Branas were the first to plant vines on steep terraces on a large scale, the first independent producer to sell their wine in bottle, and the first in the region to release a white wine. Just outside of St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the winery stands amidst 20 hectares of hillside slopes that they farm biodynamically. In addition to their own vines, they also incorporate 14 hectares of neighboring vines in their blends. Thanks to their négociant firm established in the late 1800s, the family has better means than most local producers to distribute their wines throughout France and the rest of the world. The Brana family was also one of the first to defend the identity of Cabernet Franc as the region’s original grape, citing historical records that identify the grape in the Basque country before it made its way north to either Bordeaux or the Loire. Because or this, Brana decided to plant large amounts of Cabernet Franc, rather than the popular Tannat, while carving out his terraces in the early 1980s. Since then other producers have ramped up their percentages of Cabernet Franc in their blends, something that has helped give modern Irouléguy a bit more aroma, personality and finesse. As one might expect, a large range of wines are available from chez Brana, including two excellent whites: Ilori and Albedo. The Ilori is a pineapple- and honey-brittle-scented dry wine made with 70% Gros Manseng and 30% Petit Courbu, and aged in tank. The other, Albedo, is made with a 50/50 blend of the Mansengs and is barrel-fermented; it is richer and more flattering. The Domaine Brana red is made with 60% Cabernet Franc, and Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon. It shows plenty of red fruit and a suave, vanilla-laden texture. Jean Brana also vinifies, bottles, and stocks the wine for former Pétrus winemaker Jean-Claude Berrouet, whose Henri Mina is made from just under 3 hectares of white grapes. Domaine Brana imported by Wine Traditions (various states). Henri Mina imported by Martine's (various states).

Marianne Hillau of Domaine Etxegaraya; Vineyards in Irouléguy

There are several other smaller yet distinctive AOPs in the Pyrénées region. While less commonly seen outside France, a few examples of the following smaller appellations are making their way stateside and are worth investigating.

Béarn

After driving about a half hour east of Irouléguy, one leaves the Basque country and enters another southwestern region called Béarn. While not many people have heard of Béarn, most have heard of Sauce Béarnais, which originates in the region. Made with clarified butter, egg yolks, white wine vinegar, shallots, chervil, peppercorns and tarragon, it’s a classic accompaniment to steak frites.

The wine appellation Béarn is surely one of the more unique AOPs in France, as producers in neighboring yet distant appellations can make wines and label them as Béarn. For instance, Madiran is solely a red appellation, but if a producer wants to make a rosé, he is permitted to release it as Béarn. Or if a producer in Jurançon, which is only for white wines, wants to release a red wine, he may do so with the Béarn appellation. Béarn central, however, is located around the thermal spa town Salies-de-Béarn. Here they make all three colors of wine, most of which are marketed by the Gan cooperative in Jurançon.

One independent producer exists in the region named Pascal Lapeyre, who studied winemaking in Bordeaux and worked at Cheval Blanc in St. Émilion before returning to his parents' domaine. It has not been an easy road for Pascal, working on his own without a network of local producers with whom to share ideas or equipment, or to help collectively publicize the appellation (imagine producing wine in South Dakota, for instance). Pascal makes wine from two different properties, one called Domaine Guilhemas and another called Domaine Lapeyre. In both domaines, he cultivates the red grapes Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Soils around Salies-de-Béarn have a harmonious blend of clay and limestone that helps create red wines that are more flattering and accessible than either Madiran or Irouléguy. Pascal’s white grapes include Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, and Raffiat de Moncade, a light-skinned grape variety that has lower acidity than the Mansengs and gives floral aromas along with crisp pear, melon and apple flavors. Pascal makes what must be the world's only 100% varietal example of Raffiat de Moncade. While the rare grape is sometimes confused with Arrufiac, DNA testing has proven that the grapes are not related.

Tursan

Tursan is not an appellation that many people of heard of, but for those who have eaten at Michel Guerard’s three-star restaurant Les Prés d’Eugénie in Eugénie-les-Bains, their dining experience was actually spent within Tursan. Located mostly in the Landes department, Tursan’s production zone covers some 4,000 hectares, but only about 1,000 are planted with grapes. As parts of the appellation are within the giant pine forests that extend from the Armagnac region to the Atlantic, the soils for the most part are covered with sand and silt, with some of the vineyards spread across the rolling hills also including a bit of limestone. In general, these poor soils tend to give lighter wines that are pleasant to drink young but don’t provide much capacity for aging.

The reds are made with Tannat and the two Cabernets. While red grapes outnumber whites two to one, it is perhaps the whites that display the most originality, mainly because of the Baroque grape. This indigenous grape's name comes from the Occitan word Varoc, a derivative of Vara—a long wooden pole, referring to the grape's long, straight rootstock. The grape is rustic, and resistant to oidium, mildew, and black rot. It reaches decent levels of alcohol (13%) and, while somewhat neutral in flavor, always retains refreshing acidity. Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, and Sauvignon Blanc are also permitted in the appellation’s white wines.

Production is dominated by the cooperative in Geaune, although a few independent producers also release wines. Most notable of these is Michel Guerard himself, who owns the Château de Bachen and hasn't spared much expense in making the wines—Jean-Claude Berrouet of Chateau Pétrus and Denis Dubourdieu of Clos Floridene are both consultants. A red made entirely with Merlot (not allowed in the appellation and therefore an IGP Terroirs Landais) and two whites, one in tank and one in oak barrels, are sold, mostly at the restaurant to accompany Guerard’s three-star cuisine.

Saint Mont

Saint Mont is located just west of Madiran and is dominated by the well-run cooperative Les Producteurs de Plaimont. This region was a VDQS until 2011 when it was granted appellation status and its name changed from Côtes de Saint Mont to Saint Mont.

The large, well-organized and modern co-op has gained enormous international success with the Colombelle brand, a Côtes de Gascogne blend made in a bright, refreshing style whose popularity has spread to most wine-consuming countries of the world. The coop also makes a few more serious white wines made with blends of Arrufiac and Petit Courbu, along with Gros and Petit Manseng. Often aged in oak, they provide enjoyable drinking alongside mussels, paella, or cold chicken salads. The reds include a substantial amount of Tannat, usually blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and a bit of Fer Servadou. Unlike Madiran, the appellation allows Merlot—although this grape is slowly being phased out. The co-op releases a number of different red blends, all of which are highly drinkable and some of which are worth remembering. As is often the case with co-ops, however, the eventual consumer is usually one who is not only less demanding, but also tends to buy with price being an important criteria; at times, this can diminish the potential character that the terroir can express, yielding good rather than profound wines.

Savoie-Faire: The Wines of the French Alps

Charles Neal — Tue, 18 Sep 2012 15:14:00 GMT

I remember driving along the autoroute between Alsace and the Southern Rhone about a dozen years ago. Just south of Chambery, I viewed an immense stone mass to my right, part of which seemed blasted into a crescent shape. Before me, the rugged, snow-capped Alps, standing majestically against the beautiful cobalt sky, receded toward the distant horizon. To my left I saw vineyards stretching up the steep and barren mountainside. As it was the first time I had ever been to this region, I had no idea where those grapes ultimately made their path. I wondered what their wine tasted like.

Later that evening, I looked at a map and discovered that the area I had driven through was Savoie (pronounced Sahv-wah) and, in the year that followed, I asked producers around France about wines from that area. Their takes were not always positive, and sometimes downright negative: “Over-cropped,” “thin and acidic,” “light,” “no fruit”: Or, “poor travelers,” “for tourists”—the criticisms went on and on. After hearing these opinions, there didn’t seem to be much reason to further investigate the wines. But the mountainous landscape was gorgeous, and I figured there must be some treasures growing on those rugged vineyards. I decided to conduct my own investigation.

It was difficult, however, to pursue my interest outside the region. Very few of the wines ever made it to American shores and it was hard to find stores in other regions of France that carried these wines. Part of this had to do with the area’s scarce vineyards (with just 2,200 hectares, even Corsica has more vines), but also the huge tourist market that sucks down a good deal of its production. Because of these factors, exporting the wines or developing new markets has never been a priority or even an interest to producers in Savoie. For most, there was no incentive to increase quality either. Whatever wine was made would be sold, be it good or bad.

Attitudes—at least with a rising number of growers—have fortunately changed. Some have studied winemaking at professional schools, others have begun working their soils and vines to limit their yields or started to sell their wines to customers who demand better wine. In short, wines from the region have substantially increased in quality over the past ten years.

Other factors that have also increased the visibility of Savoie wines abroad include higher temperatures that have raised the alcohol levels of many producer’s wines (from 11.5% or 12% as opposed to 10.5% or 11%), giving them more texture to glide above their already present acidity. In addition, the popularity of lower-alcohol, unoaked and highly mineral wines from the Atlantic coast (Muscadet, Txakoli, Albariño or Vinho Verde to name a few) or whites from places with higher altitudes like Austria and Northern Italy, have paved the way for a more widespread appreciation of these wines.

Delicious wines with forward fruit, an elegant texture and crisp, dry finishes that also pair well with food: this is how sommeliers should view these mountain wines today.

Old vines in Apremont with the Alps as a backdrop, courtesy of Beatrice Bernard

The Savoie Region

The Savoie region lies in the central part of France along its eastern edge, nestled beneath the Alps and along the borders of Italy and Switzerland. This is a highly visited region of France; in fact, close to 50% of Savoie’s revenue comes from tourism. While the winter months draw skiers from all over the world, the summer months bring nature enthusiasts who frolic atop the wildflower-covered hills and swim in the region’s pristine lakes.

Historically, the borders of Savoie stretched into what is now Switzerland and Italy. The House of Savoie was established in the 11^th century as part of the Kingdom of Burgundy. The Counts of Savoie helped control trade across the Alps and established their capital in Chambery along the old Roman road between Grenoble and Geneva. Their dominion continued to expand: during the 1700s, Savoie included a good part of the Alps, Switzerland, the Mediterranean coastline near Nice, Piemonte and Sardinia.

But the sheer size of the territory also made the region hard to defend, and the French made consistent attacks on its western side. To prevent being overtaken, the House of Savoy moved its capital across the mountains to Turin where the majority of its financial attention had become focused. Through a secret deal in 1859, King Victor Emmanuel II promised to exchange the Savoie region west of the Alps to France’s Napoleon III if his 200,000 troops helped fight off attacking Austrians in the north. Within the year, the French soldiers succeeded in keeping their end of the bargain.

Savoie officially became part of France in 1860. Shortly thereafter, the province was split into two departments: Savoie and Haute-Savoie. Although proudly French, the Savoie people still have strong ties to bordering Italy and Switzerland, whose influence can be detected in their rugged physical features and rustic cuisine.

Lying just north of the 45^th parallel, Savoie benefits from a continental climate that also has an oceanic influence. The summers are warm and the winters cold, with about 1,200 mm of rain or snow falling throughout the year.

Oddly, wine books, websites, wine lists and wine classes often lump Savoie and Jura together, a union that makes little sense as, besides being a couple of hours apart, the two have about as much in common as Burgundy and Alsace, or Southwestern France and the Languedoc. The soils, climate and grape varieties overlap rarely and, apart from both being in eastern France, Savoie and Jura share little else. The comparisons should cease to be made, and both regions should be regarded as being entities unto themselves.

The Appellations

Savoie has three appellations, two of which account for 96% of the region’s wine. The largest of these is simply called AOP Savoie (recently changed from Appellation Vin de Savoie Controlée) which gained its appellation status in 1973.

It is broken into 17 crus whose names can appear on the label. These include Abymes, Apremont, Arbin, Ayse, Chautagne, Chignin, Chignin-Bergeron, Crepy, Cruet, Jongiueux, Marignan, Marin, Montmelian, Ripaille, Saint-Jean-de-la-Porte, Saint-Jeoire-Prieuré and Pétillant et Mousseux de Savoie Ayze. Even though most of these crus have all the major grapes planted, many are known for specific varieties (which will be explained later).

Roussette de Savoie is the second largest appellation in Savoie and makes up 10% of the region’s production. One would think that with such a name, its grape is Roussette, but the only grape permitted is Altesse (which is sometimes referred to as Roussette by certain locals). Roussette de Savoie has four crus that include Frangy, Marestel, Monthoux and Monterminod.

Straddling the Rhone River (which begins in the Swiss Alps, flows into Lake Geneva, then down into France between the Ain department and Savoie) lies the town of Seyssel, from which Savoie’s third appellation takes its name. With the 2008 exodus of Crepy, Seyssel is now the region’s only single-village appellation and has always had a strong following at the Aix-les-Baines thermal spas along Lake Bourget to the south. Only about 20% of the appellation’s vineyards are in Savoie, however, the rest being across the river in the Ain (home to Bugey wines). Soils on both sides of the river are similar, comprised of sand, gravel and limestone, or gravel and sand outcroppings mixed with clay.

Seyssel (accounting for 4% of the region’s production) makes both still wines (with Altesse the sole permitted variety) and sparkling wines (in which Altesse, Chasselas and Molette are also allowed). Molette is a rare variety that is often grown on more pebbly and sandy soils and offers aromas of violets and white-blossomed flowers, an intoxicating compliment to the more neutral and higher-yielding Chasselas.

130,000 hl of wine are produced a year in Savoie, which represents just over a half a percent of that from all wine appellations in France.

The Grapes and their Regions

Twenty-three varieties are allowed to be used in the wines from Savoie. White grapes account for just under 70% of the region’s production, with Jacquère, Altesse, Chasselas and Bergeron leading the way. Other permitted varieties include Aligoté, Chardonnay, Gringet, Marsanne, Molette, Mondeuse Blanche, Pinot Gris, Roussette de Ayze, Velteliner Rouge Précoce and Verdesse. The red varieties grown the most are Mondeuse, Gamay and Pinot Noir, although Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Etraire de la Dhuy, Gamay de Bouze, Gamay de Chaudenay, Joubertin, Merlot, Persan, Poulsard and Servanin can also be found in minute quantities, mostly in villages outside the three AOPs that release their wines as Vin de Pays de Pays des Allobrogies (now IGP Allobrogies).

The Growing Zones and their Crus

Savoie is also known for propagating and grafting vines that comprise 10% of young vine sales around France. Savoie is also a land of polyculture, with plenty of wooded forests, grazing land for cows (whose milk is largely used for the region’s cheeses) and agricultural farms. Vineyards for the crus are centralized around villages, but the region is so large that one can drive for miles around Savoie without seeing any vines at all. Generally the vineyards are found on slopes under 250 and 500 meters altitude, as late-Spring frosts are usually too dangerous above this level. Vines are grown within six major regions.

Map courtesy of Maison de la Vigne et du Vin, Apremont

Cluse de Chambery

La Cluse de Chambery lies about 10 kms south of Chambery. While Jacquère is the most planted grape in Savoie (encompassing 50% of the region’s vineyards), its home is here. Jacquère is well adapted to the clay and limestone scree (broken rock fragments that compose the gentle slopes at the base of more vertical vineyards.) The crus that specialize in Jacquère include Apremont, Abymes and Chignin. Jacquère is a grape whose vines can produce high yields (up to 100 hl/ha) and historically has interested those producers wanting to satisfy undemanding tourists at the region’s numerous ski stations. Jacquère has good natural acidity and, even in hot years, rarely gets above 12% alcohol. It gives medium-bodied, relatively neutral wines that can have overtones of apple and pear along with an underlying spicy, tonic-like nuance. Some tasters have begun referring to Jacquère as the Muscadet of the Mountains, which is an apt description as long as they are consumed within 3 years of the vintage.

The vineyard of Apremont is the largest cru in Savoie, producing 24,000 hl of wine annually. Located on the slope of Joigny Mountain just below Mount Granier, its white Cretaceous limestone is thick and full of fossils. Above this limestone is a mixture of humus, marne and the remnants of old glacial moraines. The exposure is to the east, where the vines are nourished by the early morning sun. Apremont wines often have a smoky note, which reflects the soil’s mineral composition.

Abymes (a derivative of abimes or broken stones) is the second largest cru (16,000 hl of wine annually). It sits just south of Apremont and spills into the Isere department. In 1248, due to glacial activity or a shift in underground streams, a large chunk of Mount Granier plummeted down the hillside which resulted in the deaths of well over five thousand Abymes’ and neighboring Apremont’s inhabitants. Wines from Abymes are usually fruitier and less mineral than those of Apremont and often contain 4 or 5 grams of residual sugar.

Located across the Autoroute a short five kilometers away, Chignin benefits from a more southern and southwestern exposure, unlike Apremont and Abymes’ vineyards that face south and southeast. Soils are composed of broken limestone pieces, marl and clay. Benefitting from more sun and richer soils, Jacquère from Chignin (which produces 6,000 hl of wine a year) tends to have slightly higher alcohol and lower acidity than its neighbors across the valley.

Jean-Francois Quenard in Chignin with Mount Granier in the distance.

Combe de Savoie

Vineyards of the Combe de Savoie (a combe is a sharp, deep valley) begin along the slopes of Chignin and run along the mountainside through the crus Montmelian, Arbin, Cruet, St. Jean-de-la-Porte and Saint-Jeoire-Prieuré. The soil is made up of dark Jurassic limestone and black marl with pebbly scree that has accumulated over time from the Massif des Bauges slopes above.

Bergeron is the local name given to the grape Roussanne. Generally believed to have been imported from the Northern Rhône, it is the most aromatic of the Savoie white grapes, with apricots and flowers entwined in a creamy texture, kissed by gentle minerality. The 120 hectares of vines are planted along steep, south-facing slopes that line the combe and reach 400 meters in altitude. These wines are released with the cru name Chignin-Bergeron and should be drunk within their first five years of life.

While many Savoie vineyards have Gamay and Pinot Noir planted, Mondeuse should be considered the king of red grapes on these steep inclines. While some make claims that Mondeuse is related to Refosco, this has been proven untrue, although the two grapes do share some aromatic traits. Mondeuse has the tendency to overproduce, which is one reason producers like to grow it on slopes, where its yields are naturally lower. Even in hot years, Mondeuse rarely surpasses 12% alcohol but it can be rather tannic upon release. However, its tannin sheds faster than that of many other grapes, and after a year or two in bottle the wine reveals lovely layers of cranberry, pomegranate and cherry fruit entwined with fine spice. The best Mondeuse manages to give the flesh of cru Beaujolais, the spice and acidity of Northern Rhône Syrah, and the savory herbal component of Cabernet Franc from the Loire. The finest Mondeuse wines are delicious between their second and eighth birthdays.

Limestone scree found on the hillside slopes along the Combe de Savoie

Lake Geneva

The major grape in the area that runs along or near Lake Geneva is Chasselas, the variety responsible for 70% of plantings in the Haute-Savoie. Although Chasselas is the most widely grown grape in France, most of it is eaten rather than vinified into wine. All the Chasselas in the region used for wine is grown close to the shores of Lac Léman (known in America as Lake Geneva), across from the Vaud region of Switzerland, where Chasselas is also king. Chasselas rarely gets above 12% in alcohol, and produces neutral wines with an underlying mineral, tonic-like quality. Chasselas has the reputation of a wine to be drunk young although, while delicious in its first two or three years, properly stored bottles from strong vintages can be highly enjoyable a decade after release.

The vineyards around Lake Geneva include four crus. Ripaille juts out into the lake on flat land covered by sand and gravel, and Marin lies a bit further west along gentle slopes above Evian-les-Baines (where the water comes from) and its vineyards are comprised of clay, sand and brown gravel. Marignan is perhaps where Chasselas’ cultivation for wine originated: in the 14th century, monks established a model farm and began pressing grapes. The vineyards have more pitch to them than in Ripaille, and they are covered by coarse sand and clay molasse (shale and sandstone gravels) that have eroded from the Alps. Just below Marignan lies Crépy, whose soils are similar albeit with better exposure. Crépy, which once had its own appellation but saw it removed in 2009, makes dry white wines in a more modern style. Their specialty is petillant wines, whose touch of carbonic gas gives them a slight spritz.

Côte d’Arve

The Côte d’Arve has the highest vineyards in Savoie, rising to about 550 meters midway between Geneva and the Mont Blanc tunnel that connects France with Italy. It also has the most mountain-like climate, with about 110 days annually experiencing frost. Fortunately its southerly exposure and protection from north winds by the Chablais Massif helps minimalize late spring frosts. The soils are molasse that have tumbled down from the mountains above. The grapes grown here include Roussette d’Ayze or Mondeuse Blanche, Grosse Roussette aka Marsanne, and Chasselas, known locally as Bon Blanc. Just 40 hectares remain of the Gringet variety, which some say is related to the Savignin or Traminer family of grapes although DNA tests have disproved this. Gringet ripens late in the season, has moderate yields and gives wines that have apple and quince flavors, often accompanied by floral notes. Although in short supply, it does make some of the region’s most interesting sparkling wines.

The Montagne de Chat

The vineyards of the Mont de Chat area lie about ten kilometers west of the Lac de Bourget and are highly planted with the Altesse grape. Altesse, thought to have been brought to the region from Cyprus in 1366, achieves its pinnacle along the Marestel slope (pronounced Mar-ray-tell), an amazing series of steep plots whose pitch falls somewhere between the Chablis Grand Crus and Côte Rôtie. Facing due west and overlooking the Rhone River, its clay and Kimmeridgian-period limestone vineyards often reach grades of 40%, insuring optimum exposure. The soil, the slope and its facing all contribute to a particular microclimate from which Altesse reaches its pinnacle in both complexity and longevity. These stunning vineyards are a must see for any student of wine.

Altesse is harvested late in the season and is not susceptible to gray rot, allowing the grapes to ripen fully. Yields are kept low, generally around 30 hl/ha. Altesse produces fuller-bodied wines than Jacquère yet also has admirable acidity. To balance this acidity, a bit of residual sugar is frequently left, as is often the case with Chenin, Riesling, or the grape that some compare it to, Furmint, used in Tokaj. The resulting wines often have exotic flavors (pineapple, guava, bergamot orange) and a pronounced almond and honey note. While the best Marestel wines can age for up to 12 years, they are most enjoyable between 2 and 6 years of age.

The stunning Marestel slope, home to the world's finest Altesse

La Vallée des Usses

This area, including Seyssel, has vineyards planted on limestone glacial debris. The cru Frangy lies northeast of Seyssel and has south and southeast facing vineyards planted solely with Altesse. Yields are generally kept lower in Frangy than in Seyssel, making for more concentrated, interesting expressions of the Savoyard grape, delicious during its first five years of life.

La Chautagne

This series of vineyards lies along the northeastern part of the Lac de Bourget, between Marestel and Frangy. Chautagne has more of a Mediterranean climate than the other crus, with olive trees dotted within the landscape and cicadas providing a more southerly soundtrack. This is the only cru in Savoie where red grapes are dominant. Gamay accounts for about 50% of the plantings, with Mondeuse and Pinot Noir comprising the rest in equal proportions. In the south, limestone dominates, while in the north, glacial sediment composed of gravel and sand lie under the vineyards. Gamay from Chautagne has the reputation of being more structured and ageworthy than those of others crus in Savoie, with an impressive 5 to 7 year aging curve for the better wines.

Food in Savoie

The food in Savoie overlaps that of Switzerland and the mountainous areas of northwestern Italy like the Val d’Oesta. While fondue is Swiss in origin, fondue Savoyarde can be found at every auberge in the region. And even though most people associate Polenta with Italy, it is found on many tables in Savoie, normally as an accompaniment to sausages or stews. Alternatively, it is cut into triangles and pan fried in butter. Diot sausages, made from ground pork with a little nutmeg seasoning, are traditionally cooked in white or red wine. Frog’s legs with garlic and parsley are found in other regions of France, but I always associate them with Alpine ponds and see them on menus at many local restaurants. These are normally pan fried in butter with some garlic and parsley. Especially in the Haute-Savoie, perch filets (small white fish from lakes that are normally pan fried and served with fries) are the local version of fish and chips. Perhaps the most famous Savoie dish is the tartiflette, a casserole made with sliced potatoes, reblochon cheese, lardons, onions and cream.

Savoie also rivals Normandy with its wealth of cow’s milk cheese. Beaufort, coming from near a town with the same name, is somewhat similar to Gruyere and is commonly used in fondue because it melts easily. Tomme (a generic term meaning wheel of cheese) abounds in Savoie. Tomme de Savoie is made with partially skimmed cow’s milk cheese and has salty and grassy flavors. Tomme de Bauges has an AOP and is made from milk with a higher fat content and from a specified part of Eastern Savoie. The cheese does not have holes and its rind is less thick than that of regular Tomme de Savoie, and its taste is also sweeter. Reblochon is a soft cow’s milk cheese that is molded in a circular form. It has a slightly nutty taste and is an essential ingredient in tartiflette.

Challenges for the Sommelier

The challenges presented to the sommelier by Savoie wines are many: Wines from Savoie are still relatively hard to find, and quantities that many importers bring into the country are enough to cover several markets at best. The wines are still lumped into that dust-collecting Other France category on a wine list that often sit untouched for months. Because the varieties and appellations are unknown to most wine consumers (or even professionals in the business), bottles are harder to sell because education on a number of different levels is necessary—sales rep, sommelier, servers and customer. In short, it’s easier to sell another Bourgogne Rouge, Chardonnay or Riesling by the glass simply because they are easier for all levels of the chain to recall and sell. Additionally, those areas have become so well known that if a client doesn’t like the wine, they will blame the region or the grape rather than the server who sold it to them, so nobody needs to fear losing face in front of a guest.

That being said, it’s really not all that hard to sell the wines from the region: after all, its comprised of just three appellations (Savoie, Roussette de Savoie and Seyssel), and four commonly-found grapes (Jacquère, Altesse, Chasselas and Mondeuse). What’s more, Savoie wines perform amazingly well at the table. Wines made with Jacquère are aromatic enough to be served by the glass but also pair well with seafood (clams, mussels) or light appetizers, particularly those with a lightly-fried crust. Altesse-based wines should be viewed with the same pairing potential as Chenin Blanc-based wines from the Loire, that is with chicken, veal or white fish, even plates with a bit of spicy heat. Chasselas works well with grilled or lightly battered fish like sand dabs or lake fish, composed salads or a cheese soufflé. Mondeuse can be matched with similar foods one might serve with Saint Joseph: beef short ribs, grilled chicken, pork loin or rabbit to name a few.

Some recommended wines from Savoie available in America

André and Michel Quénard Chignin: This excellent producer is one of seven Quénards in Chignin and makes very reliable wines. Highlights include their Chignin and Abymes, as well as their Chignin-Bergeron.

Domaine Labbé Abymes: This domaine is run by cousins Alexandra and Jerome Labbé. Their Abymes is light to medium-bodied, with notes of firm pear and citrus pith, and a clean, fresh, mineral finish.

Pierre Boniface Apremont: These wines, along with those of André and Michel Quénard, have been available on a consistent basis in the States longer than any others. Their Apremont is medium-bodied, with under-ripe apple and lightly floral aromas, plenty of limestone minerality and good acidity that hides its small amount of residual sugar.

Béatrice Bernard Apremont: The Vieilles Vignes cuvée comes from 80 year-old vines lying beneath Mount Grenier. Medium-bodied, where flavors of under-ripe Bartlett pear, tonic water and mineral salinity converge to make this one of the better Jacquère-based wines of the region.

Domaine JP and JF Quénard Chignin-Bergeron: Jean-Francois Quénard makes two excellent wines from Roussanne, known to locals as Bergeron. Les Demoiselles comes from vines growing along the steep limestone slopes of the Combe de Savoie. It shows notes of creamy apricot and white flowers that dance across its medium to full-bodied texture. His Pied de la Tour cuvée comes from 50-80 year old vines grown on rolling hills comprised of clay and limestone. Richer than Les Demoiselles and with flavors of ripe apricot, peach and creamy vanilla (although it sees no oak), this full-bodied wine shows less minerality than its predecessor yet more hedonistic fruit.

Domaine Dupasquier Roussette de Savoie: David Dupasquier is the fifth generation at this well-respected estate located beneath the Marestel slope. The Dupasquiers tend to release their wines later than their compatriots, which is not a bad idea for Altesse at it really flowers after several years in bottle. Their Marestel shows some notes of ripe exotic fruit (pineapple and apricot), along with honey and citrus pith flavors.

Domaine Edmund Jacquin Roussette de Savoie Marestel: Now run by Patrice and Jean-Francois Jacquin, this Marestel shows exotic notes that include pineapple and honey, as well as a note of white flowers, buttressed by gentle underlying acidity.

Jean Vullien St. Jean-de-la-Porte Mondeuse: This cru only allows red grapes, most of them Mondeuse. This shows bright, Grenache-like red fruit along with intriguing peppery and dried herbal notes. Well-integrated tannins make it fully enjoyable now.

Domaine Charles Trosset Arbin: Mondeuse is the only grape grown within the Arbin cru. Louis Trosset and his brother Joseph farm just over four hectares of old vines planted on very steep slopes. Four cuvées are released at the domaine, all aged in tank but with various levels of aging potential. Harmonie is bright and full of blueberry, pepper and spice, while Prestige des Arpentes has slightly higher acidity, tannin and aging potential. These wines are about as close to St. Joseph as one gets outside the Northern Rhone.

Domaine Belluard Gringet Feu: Belluard is a lone soldier in the cru Ayse, responsible for half of the production of the world’s Gringet. This cuvée comes from biodynamically-grown fruit and is aged in small cement eggs. It has a beautiful gold color, and a rich nose with a slight hint of oxidation. The mouth shows pineapple and a hint of cream and smoke. The olfactory fireworks continue with apple, white peach and quince flavors, along with honey and orange pith.

Domaine Belluard Ayze Methode Traditionelle: This delicious sparkler shows notes of juicy clementine, Asian spice, pineapple and creamy vanilla, wrapped seamlessly in a 12% alcohol package.

Chateau de Ripaille Chasselas: This 22-hectare domaine lies along the shores of Lake Geneva where the climate is temperate and the gravelly soils provide excellent drainage. Apple, quinine water and citrus pith converge on a medium-bodied palate that effortlessly invites another sip.

Charles Neal is a wine and spirits importer based in San Francisco, CA. He is the author of Armagnac, The Definitive Guide to France's Premier Brandy and Calvados, The Spirit of Normandy. In addition, he has contributed to The International Wine Cellar and The Art of Eating magazines.

Armagnac: An In-Depth Look at the Regions, Grapes, Styles and Producers

Charles Neal — Mon, 06 Feb 2012 17:16:00 GMT

Armagnac is a brandy that hails from the Gascony region of Southwestern France. Traditionally, Armagnac is consumed in a snifter, but today it is often served in a shorter, narrower glass like a sherry copita. Armagnac is commonly served straight and is typically consumed after a meal. Its sublime flavors and bold alcohol make Armagnac a true digestif, providing immense gustatory pleasure while simultaneously aiding digestion. Just recently, documents were discovered showing that distillation took place in the Armagnac region more than 700 years ago, making it the oldest known eau de vie in France. Often compared to Cognac, Armagnac differs from its cousin in a number of important ways. In fact, comparing Armagnac and cognac is a bit like comparing red Burgundy and red Bordeaux. While both are red wines, the grapes, soils, textures and flavors are very different.

The Region

Gascony is an unspoiled region located about an hour and a half southwest of Bordeaux and just to the east of Toulouse. It is spread through the departments of Gers, Les Landes and the Lot et Garonne. Gascony is a highly agricultural region, where rolling hills are adorned with green corn, yellow sunflowers, neat rows of vines and golden expanses of wheat. The Gers is the number one producer of duck in France, meaning that all the bird’s derivatives are held in high esteem. Traditional plates include Magret de Canard, duck confit, gratons (duck cracklings), gesier (duck neck) and, of course, foie gras in its three forms: canned, in terrine, and fresh. Other common plates are cassoulet, game (particularly game birds), cepes (similar to porcini mushrooms) and black truffles. Duck fat is favored over butter or olive oil. As one might expect, the cuisine is rich and pairs beautifully with full-bodied red wines from the area, such as Madiran, Côtes de Gascogne, and Saint Mont.

Tourism is not a big industry in Gascony; in fact, many people tend to bypass the region while they speed to the Atlantic beaches or the refuge of the Pyrénées. Instead, Gascony is a place where people go to relax and appreciate its uncorrupted character rather than to party. Certain culinary meccas exist in the region, however, including Michel Guerard’s Michelin "3-star" Le Pres d’Eugenie and Restaurant Michel Trama in Puymirol.

The grapes in the region that will be used to distill Armagnac include Baco 22-A, Ugni Blanc, Colombard and Folle Blanche. These grapes have higher yields than grapes that will be used for table wines. Harvest is just about always by machine and within three months of crush, the fresh, cloudy and highly acidic wine will be passed through the still.

The Terroir

Armagnac is comprised of three appellations: Bas-Armagnac, Ténarèze and Haut-Armagnac. The Bas-Armagnac (literally Low-Armagnac, a reference to its altitude rather than its quality) is the westernmost region, and is located principally in the Landes department. Immense pine forests stretch for scores of miles all the way to the Atlantic Ocean, planted because of their ability to grow on the area’s sandy soils. The pure sand ends around the border of the Bas-Armagnac, where small pieces of limestone, called boulbenes, appear with a layer of tawny-colored, iron-rich sand known as sables fauves. These soils, weak in both nutrients and water retention, yield grapes with low sugar levels and high acidity. The Ténarèze, located further east, sees a slight rise in altitude as well as a shift from sand to clay and limestone. With additional nutrients and better water retention, the Ténarèze has soil much better adapted to the production of quality wine. Producing grapes with higher sugar and lower acidity levels, it’s no surprise that this area has seen newfound prosperity over the past 25 years, with the rise of Cotes de Gascogne Vin de Pays/IGP wines. The Haut-Armagnac runs along the eastern border of the Ténarèze and the southern border of the Bas-Armagnac. It is the largest appellation in Armagnac, yet very few vines remain. Most farmers prefer to cover their flat, limestone parcels with wheat, soybeans, irrigated corn or whatever other crop the government is willing to subsidize.

The Grapes

Folle Blanche was once the favored grape of Armagnac. Its high acid and low sugar levels make it ideal for distillation. It buds early, making it susceptible to late spring frosts, and is sensitive to certain maladies like oidium and mildew. Its yields are relatively low. In short, it is not a cost-effective grape to grow. However, it does produce a distillate with a fine texture and high-pitched aromatics. Due to its capriciousness in the vineyard and its near-eradication by phylloxera, Folle Blanche now encompasses only 3% of the plantings in the Armagnac region. When replanting was implemented after the root louse struck, Folle Blanche’s fragile rootstock had difficulty producing in the sandy soils. A local teacher, Francois Baco, developed a hybrid grape, crossing Folle Blanche with an American hybrid, Noah, which flourished in upstate New York. Baco 22-A, his new hybrid grape, was resistant to disease, produced good quantities in most years, required minimal chemical treatments, and produced wines with high acidity and low alcohol. Its distillate was rich and fat, albeit a bit rustic. It quickly became the favored grape of Armagnac and remained that way for most of the century. Baco began to lose favor in the 1980s with the increase in popularity of Côtes de Gascogne wines. These highly aromatic wines, made mostly with Ugni Blanc and Colombard, were floral, fruity, bright, lively and inexpensive, quickly finding a marketplace in countries demanding inexpensive alternatives to Sauvignon Blanc, which they often resembled. Producers in the Ténarèze began ripping up their old Baco and planting more Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Gros Manseng, and even international varieties like Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. Armagnac for these producers began to take a back seat to their wine production.

Ugni Blanc and Colombard both make very good eau de vie, albeit with slightly less character than Baco or Folle Blanche. I often find a slight herbal note with pure Ugni Blanc, and prefer Colombard for its richer texture. Unlike grapes that are transformed into wine, in the Armagnac grape texture is more important contribution than aroma or flavor. In this way, I like to view Folle Blanche as the soprano, Ugni Blanc as the alto, Colombard as the baritone and Baco as the bass.

The Wine

While quality wines for the table generally have relatively high pH, good sugar levels and well-balanced acidity, the finest Armagnac brandies result from wines that have low alcohol (8-9 %) and high acidity. As one is converting wine into alcohol—approximately 5 liters of wine are required to produce one liter of Armagnac at 45% alcohol—the grape varieties are high-yielding, normally in the neighborhood of 90-120 hl/ha (6-8 tons/acre). Diminishing yields leads to higher alcohol levels and a spirit with less finesse. In fact, the alambic armagnacaise (Armagnac still) has difficulty distilling wine with greater than 10% alcohol, and it is necessary to dilute the wine with water during very hot years. Armagnac vintages are often better in years that are considered to be mediocre wine years.

The grapes are normally harvested in September. The wine is fermented in stainless steel or fiberglass tanks. It is illegal to add sulfur to the wine once its fermentation is complete, and the wine is usually distilled sur lie. This isn’t wine that looks or tastes good; cloudy and sharp, it is normally distilled in November or December while acidity is at a maximum and oxidation has not affected the freshness of the wine.

Denis Cames, an itinerant distiller in the Gers and Les Landes, keeps his eye on the alcohol-meter. Distillation is easier than it might appear: the wine basin needs to be kept full, the flame needs to be kept at a relatively constant temperature and, if the existing alcohol degree begins heading above 54%, a valve is adjusted to provide a faster flow of wine to lower the degree. If the degree falls below 51%, the flow of wine needs to be decreased. In the meantime, there is time to eat, watch television or even sleep.

Distillation

Distillation is a process in which a base liquid is heated so that its purest elements are captured while its heavier, less pure components are left behind. When a liquid with an alcoholic content is distilled, the resultant distillate is higher in alcohol, as the purest, lightest components of the spirit have been condensed. Along with the alcohol comes the concentrated aromas of the wine. Centuries ago, Armagnac was distilled twice in small pot stills. That changed in the mid-1800s with the invention of the column still, which made the conversion of wine into strong alcohol not only faster and less expensive, but also more transportable. No longer did a farmer have to sit in front of his own fixed still for a month or more to convert his wine into alcohol in batches. Now a travelling distiller could visit his property for two or three days and quickly perform the alchemic conversion, allowing the farmer to attend to other chores on the property. The column still in Armagnac is comprised of 8 or 9 plates through which incoming wine descends and the outgoing spirit passes. Heavier alcohols fall back into the boiling base matter, while the lighter, purer alcohols are allowed to rise to the top. The spirit that exits the still is normally between 52% and 60%.

A large difference between the pot still and the column still lies in latter’s less efficient separation of the heads and tails from the heart of the distillate. The heart is the purest part of the spirit, containing lower levels of congeners, acids, esters, methanols and other substances that can permeate the spirit with unpleasant flavors. These aromas can dominate a spirit in its youth, but they can evolve positively with time and become intriguingly complex.

An alambic still at the Domaine d'Ognoas that dates to the early 1800s and is still in use today. The wine is preheated within the right column, then passes over to the left column where it trickles down through a series of plates before reaching the heater. The vapor then rises through holes in the same plates, with the purest, lightest vapors, now mostly free of heavier compounds like acids, congeners and esters, making their way to the top before crossing back to the right-side column where it is cooled by its descent and indirect contact with the incoming wine. It finally leaves the still at 52% to 54% alcohol, on average.

Aging in Barrel

When the spirit exits the still, it is clear in color and technically an eau de vie. It then goes into barrel, where its interaction with the wood will give it color and various flavors, including vanilla and spice. Most Armagnac producers use barrels that are bought from the local cooper, but the barrel staves actually come from Limousin, a forest further north. The famed local oak (black oak) of Armagnac is difficult to find nowadays, as the nearby forests of Montluzun and Montguilhem have few serviceable trees. A few producers have been able to make barrels out of fallen trees on their property, and some have sourced wood from forests in the area, but most of the oak staves come from trees that were felled outside of Gascony.

Aging takes place in above-ground cellars called chai. Producers will normally expose the young spirit to new oak, or barrels that are no more than two to three years old, when the wood still has some nutrients to give. After a year or two, the spirit is usually transferred to an older barrel, perhaps four or five years old, and several years later it will be transferred into an even more neutral barrel. The tannin that newer barrels secrete is important for the structure of the spirit, yet exposure to too much new oak will create a spirit that shows too much dry, bitter tannin.

As the spirit ages in barrel, air gently passes through the oak pores and certain flavors within the spirit begin to transform. Vanilla notes change to caramel then to toffee; the fruit flavors become less floral and primal and begin picking up additional concentration. New flavors emerge, including those of dried fruit and notes like prune or apricot. The alcohol level begins to slowly dissipate, creating a rounder, more harmonious spirit. Oxidation permeates the Armagnac and produces nutty aromas known as rancio, akin to a well-aged sherry or madeira. When the alcohol, fruit and nutty complexity begin to converge, an Armagnac is considered to be at its summit.

Darroze must be regarded as the most serious negociant in the region: old barrels are either sourced and purchased in their entirety or a certain quantity of a producer's distillation is contracted. Afterwards, the spirits are transferred to Chez Darroze where they are raised with utmost attention and bottled at cask strength with a vintage date and the name of the originating property. In addition, a number of excellent blends are also available.

Adulteration

As is the case with most spirits, there are a number of additives that may be blended to correct the final product. These are generally meant to create consistency for large, highly commercial enterprises striving for consistency from year to year. These additives include water, which lowers the alcohol level; caramel, a burnt sugar liquid that adjusts color; sugar syrup, which adds sweetness and lessens bitterness; and boisé, a liquid of boiled oak chips which adds oak flavor. Most spirits released before their fifth birthday will probably have been adulterated with some or all of these additives. Additives are less necessary for older spirits, which should naturally develop the color and flavor components they need after ten or fifteen years.

Blended Armagnac and Vintage Armagnac

Armagnac may be blended from multiple vintages and released under names like VSOP, XO or Reserve. These styles have become popular, particularly with resellers, who can hit lower price points. The Hors d’Age moniker is commonly seen in Armagnac, and spirits with this labeling must be at least 10 years old. Most blended Armagnac has a diluted alcohol content of between 45% and 40%. Despite the presence of such blends on the market, Armagnac has traditionally been released with a vintage date and at cask strength. This has not only allowed the region to capitalize on the ability to provide a perfect birthday gift for a lover of the spirit, but has also enabled the consumer to know the exact age of the spirit they are drinking. Most vintage Armagnacs now have the bottling date listed somewhere on the bottle, which enables one to subtract the vintage from the bottling date to arrive with the exact age of the spirit. Most vintages that are 20 years of age should be in the neighborhood of 45% to 48% alcohol. For the uninitiated, this sometimes comes across as being rather strong. But Armagnac should pack more punch than other brandies: it’s simply part of its fiery nature.

Serving Armagnac

As diners often start their meal with a cocktail or two, then move on to high octane wine with their meal, a strong after-dinner drink is often omitted. Consequently, there has been an effort to find uses for Armagnac in ways that divert from tradition. This is normally in the form of a cocktail, which gets Armagnac into the hands of the consumer before they sit down at the table. A new appellation, Blanche Armagnac, was recently created with cocktails in mind. While this eau de vie would have become proper Armagnac with barrel aging, Blanche Armagnac has a clear color and more neutral taste, making it a good alternative to vodka and other clear spirits in cocktails.

Servers at restaurants also need to know that Armagnac exists on the menu and that they should plant seeds when they ask diners if they would like a dessert wine, after-dinner drink or coffee. They shouldn’t expect that diners ask them for a brandy. Instead, they might simply suggest, “Coffee? An after-dinner drink? An Armagnac perhaps?”

Servers should also be familiar with one or two of the Armagnacs on the list. But rather than to focus on their technical aspects, they should know how to describe its texture and flavor in the same way they might with a wine. We don’t describe Albariño to a guest by mentioning its Brix level at harvest time; instead, we talk about its peach and apricot notes, its medium body, and its crisp finish. Likewise, when asked about Armagnac, a server should be able to speak about its forward aromas, rich, full-bodied texture and robust, long finish. In addition, Sommeliers should look for Armagnacs at various price points to add to their spirits lists, and learn to understand the difference between good and mediocre producers. Following is a short list off some good producers that any good wine buyer should be on the lookout for.

Producers vs. Negoçiants

An Armagnac producer is one that grows their own grapes, makes their own wine, distills at their own property and ages in their own chai or cellar. Most producers will have Armagnac vintages going back 20 or 25 years. A negoçiant, on the other hand, may or may not own vineyards, and may or may not make the wine. Most have an inventory of older vintages that they have purchased from other small growers, negoçiants or cooperatives. Producers in Armagnac are like growers (RMs) in Champagne, while negoçiants are like the larger and more highly available champagne houses.

Bas Armagnac Producers
The sandy soil structure of the Bas-Armagnac yields grapes with higher acid than those grown on clay and limestone; thus, Armagnac from the Bas-Armagnac tends to be rounder and more supple, and shows more finesse than brandies from the other regions.

Domaine Boingnérès: Martine Lafitte, who took over for her father Leon during the mid-nineties, is a stalwart defender of Folle Blanche—more than half of their vineyards are planted with the grape—and a relentless proponent of traditional upbringing, without reduction or rectification. The Armagnacs of Boingnérès are intense, focused, linear and precise. These are highly prized by connoisseurs.

Laberdolive: The reputation of this small domaine was created by Gerard Laberdolive, one of the first producers to sell his Armagnac to top restaurants outside the region. Although Laberdolive once owned a couple of properties, all of the estate’s production now comes from vineyards surrounding the family’s house in Labastide d’Armagnac. While they still possess some very old vintages made with Baco and Folle Blanche (now housed in glass demi-johns), the more recent vintages are made with Ugni Blanc.

Château de Ravignan: Ravignan has some wonderful vintages from the early eighties, produced predominantly from Baco. Careful aging in neutral oak within the château’s well-ventilated chai helps to give an exotic note to the spirits.

Château de Tariquet: With approximately 1,000 hectares under vine, Tariquet is the most important wine producer in the region. In fact, it was Yves Grassa who is credited with putting the Côtes de Gascogne on the winemaking map. Not surprisingly, their soils are a bit more like Ténarèze than Bas-Armagnac, and their Armagnacs have perhaps a bit less depth than some producers located in Les Landes. Overall quality is very good, however, and they are widely available throughout the country.

Château de Briat: Chateau de Briat was built in the in the 1500s and once served as a hunting retreat to Henry IV, King of France. The estate was purchased by Baron Raoul Pichon-Longueville in the 1860s and was passed along through the years to descendents in his family line. The most recent, Stephane de Luze, now helms the estate after the tragic death of his father, who was died in an automobile accident in 2003. Briat’s Hors d’Age, made strictly with Baco, offers a hedonistic mouthful of Gascon flavors, including plum, chocolate and maple toffee.

Ténarèze
Younger spirits from the Ténarèze tend to lack some of the supple depth that one finds in the Bas-Armagnac. That being said, Armagnacs from the Ténarèze can live longer than those from the Bas-Armagnac, and still show plenty of life up until their fortieth birthday.

Château de Pellehaut: The Beraut family, producers of high-quality wines, also make top-notch Armagnac at their Château de Pellehaut. The Reserve bottling, produced mostly from Ugni Blanc and Folle Blanche, acts as a nice entry-level bridge between Armagnac and Cognac, with a delicate, medium-bodied texture and long finish.

Château Busca-Maniban: Busca-Maniban is a long-standing domaine that has recently increased their presence on the market. Armagnac made with Ugni Blanc is available in a wide variety of vintages.

Negoçiants

Château de Laubade: Château de Laubade is the largest Armagnac-only producing domaine in the region: releases marked “Château de Laubade” come from the four grape varieties grown and raised on their property. Older vintages are simply marked as “Laubade”, and have been purchased from neighboring properties. An excellent Blanche is also available in many markets.

Darroze: Darroze has to be considered the top negoçiant in Armagnac. Francis’ father had an extraordinary restaurant in the region where Armagnacs from local producers were served. Francis purchased these in larger lots and began selling them around the world. His son Marc has now taken over the affair. Methods have remained the same: Darroze contracts Armagnacs distilled at the property (usually with heavy Baco proportions), then the young spirit is shifted to the Darroze chai, where they are meticulously raised. Releases are at cask strength and they always bear the domaine name and bottling date.