Miquel Hudin

Taurasi in Transition: Reimagining Aglianico in Southern Italy

Miquel Hudin — Thu, 05 Feb 2026 15:00:00 GMT

The wines of Taurasi, made in an inland corner of Campania, about an hour’s drive east of Naples, have had their moments of fame over the years. Taurasi has even been nicknamed Barolo of the South—a high bar of quality and fame to reach! ...(read more)

Sailing the Winds of Change in Sherry

Miquel Hudin — Fri, 07 Nov 2025 20:20:00 GMT

Sherry, often viewed as a timeless region, is emerging from a period of significant evolution. In recent months, Sherry’s regulatory body, or consejo regulador, in Jerez de la Frontera finalized the last of a set of much-needed changes that hav...(read more)

Madeira: Seeking a Place in the Modern Age

Miquel Hudin — Thu, 29 May 2025 19:20:00 GMT

Around the hour-and-a-half mark of the flight from Lisbon to the island of Madeira, the plane begins its descent over the Atlantic. At first, there’s little but endless water visible from the cabin window. Then, the low-hanging clouds on the ho...(read more)

Making the Case for Crémant de Bourgogne

Miquel Hudin — Sat, 11 Jan 2025 17:00:00 GMT

When it comes to sparkling wine, Champagne has done all the heavy lifting of establishing the image of bubbles as one of celebration, class, and sophistication. With Champagne commanding an average bottle price of €20 in France and $58 in the US...(read more)

Godello: The New Gold in Valdeorras

Miquel Hudin — Wed, 18 Sep 2024 19:24:00 GMT

Galicia, in the northwestern corner of Spain, is one of the more remote regions of the Iberian Peninsula. Nearly all Galicia’s major cities, except Santiago de Compostela, are along the coast, leaving Galicia’s interior very empty and mak...(read more)

Châteauneuf-du-Pape: The News of Old

Miquel Hudin — Mon, 10 Jun 2024 14:30:00 GMT

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a classic French wine region that is core to defining the winemaking of the Southern Rhône, but it is also undergoing a moment of reinvention. Châteauneuf-du-Pape could easily rest on its fame and be content w...(read more)

Slovenia, in Midstride

Miquel Hudin — Thu, 21 Dec 2023 20:30:00 GMT

If there is one exceedingly worn-out trope in food and wine writing, it’s describing a location as being at a crossroads. And yet, the central European country of Slovenia is indeed crisscrossed by a number of roads. The neighboring Croatians, ...(read more)

The Dry Side of Roussillon

Miquel Hudin — Fri, 05 Nov 2021 15:00:00 GMT

While Roussillon is not a behemoth of overall French wine production, much has been written about it. Unfortunately, in what text exists, this Southern French region is almost always in a "suffix state," at the end of Languedoc-Roussillon. ...(read more)

Godello & Mencía in Northwest Spain

Miquel Hudin — Fri, 18 Jun 2021 12:15:00 GMT

Though Spain is one of the largest wine producers in the world, industry-wide acceptance of its fine wines has taken an exceedingly long time to establish. It was just 20 years ago that “big” had grown in dominance to be the defining styl...(read more)

Misunderstood Topics in Spanish Wine

Miquel Hudin — Fri, 21 Aug 2020 15:00:00 GMT

On the surface, Spain seems relatively straightforward as compared to the other top producers of wine worldwide. It has just 97 DOP-level regions—nothing like the nearly 400 appellations of France. Unlike Italy, which claims as many as 2,000 na...(read more)

Spain’s Great Grapes

Miquel Hudin — Fri, 23 Sep 2016 14:20:00 GMT

If there is one native Spanish grape that a typical wine drinker will know, it is Tempranillo, and for most consumers, the story ends there. In the second half of the 20th century, it was this widespread lack of recognition of Spain’s native grapes combined with the ease of growing French varieties that gave nonnative grapes inroads in Spain. Winemakers didn't want to explain Monastrell when people already knew and were happy to drink Cabernet Sauvignon. But even though Syrah and Petit Verdot have shown good results, there are countless more vineyards of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that have never made truly compelling wines.

Today, as they seek to stand out in a crowded world of wine, many Spanish winemakers are taking stock of and returning to their native varieties, spurred on by increasingly curious consumers as well as modern viticulture and winemaking practices. Here are a few that sommeliers should know.

White Grapes

Airén

Unbeknownst to many, Arién, a grape grown primarily in Castilla-La Mancha, is actually Spain's most widely planted grape, besting even Tempranillo with plantings at nearly 300,000 hectares! In 1990, Arién was the most-planted variety in the world; it has since dropped to third place. So where are all of these grapes going? The answer is Spanish brandy. The grapes that do make it into wine typically result in a glass of generic Spanish white wine that’s crisp, light in body, and not too memorable. Some producers challenge that; working with old vines and barrel or amphora aging, they are creating wines with a bit more personality.

Albariño

Albariño (or Alvarinho in neighboring Portugal) has made good headway in terms of recognition, and Rías Baixas is becoming increasingly well known for the grape. The vines have even been exported out of the country and planted around the world, including along the Pacific Coast of the United States. Albariño is native to the area around Portugal’s northern border with Spain. Its flavor ranges considerably, often both fruity and floral with honeysuckle and peach notes. Green apple is another common descriptor. Whichever direction the flavor profile leans, pronounced acidity is common, as well as salinity.

Albillo Real

A grape from the center of Spain that's been making a resurgence in recent years, Albillo Real is something of an underdog. Once widely regarded as only a table grape, there are now producers in DO Méntrida, DO Vinos de Madrid, and VdlT Castilla y León making excellent, highly aromatic varietal wines from this grape that tend to have a very full mouthfeel. Other wineries in Ribera del Duero have even taken a page out of the Côte Rôtie playbook, adding up to 5% of Albillo to Tempranillo wines for an added aromatic lift.

Garnacha Blanca

Garnacha Blanca is known in Catalan as Garnatxa blanca or Vernatxa Blanca. Like its red variant, Garnacha Negra, this white grape has spread far and wide, albeit usually known by its French name, Grenache Blanc. It's actually found more outside of Spain (where there are just over 2,000 hectares) than within its borders. France, in particular, has 5,000 hectares, all in the south. It should also be noted that among the total plantings in Spain are obscure grapes that were misclassified as Garnacha Blanca due to oversimplified vineyard assessments in the early 20th century.

Garnacha Blanca is often blended with grapes like Macabeu to bring its high alcohol content in line. Yet when properly handled, Garnacha Blanca can stand up very well to barrel aging. The wineries of DO Terra Alta in Catalonia are producing some of the best varietal wines of the grape with taut minerality, plenty of body, and ripe green fruit.

Godello

This grape is a bit complicated, and while its profile has risen quickly within the sommelier community, it's at a crossroads in terms of its definition. Godello’s homeland is Galicia, but it can be found under several synonyms throughout the Iberian Peninsula. While it can take well to barrel aging and be refined and “mineral,” it can also be rather undefined and neutral. Newer styles are taking on more floral interpretations that are vibrant and energetic. Godello’s revival in Spain is just 30 years old, so the evolution will undoubtedly continue.

Macabeu

Generally considered native to Catalonia, this grape is sometimes spelled Macabeo or found under the alternate name used in Rioja, Viura. It dominates white grape plantings in northern Spain, mainly due to the vast plantings in Penedès, where it is used as part of traditional Cava blends and for DO Penedès still wines. While young still wines tend to be lightly aromatic, low-production bush vines in Rioja can produce white wines that will age for years, like López de Heredia’s iconic Viña Tondonia. The grape has made inroads in France as well, where winemakers in the Roussillon area have had great success blending it with Grenache Blanc and Carignan Blanc (ironically, all three of these grapes are originally from the Aragón/Catalonia area).

Palomino Fino

Many people are unfamiliar with Palomino Fino, but they know the style of wine made largely from it: Sherry. One of the three authorized grapes for Sherry production (the other two are Moscatel and Pedro Ximénez), it dominates the vineyards of the “Sherry Triangle” in Andalucía, with a total of 14,000 hectares planted. The Canary Islands are the only other place in Spain to come close, with 9,000 hectares of the grape, which they call by its other name, Listán Blanco (which is not a mutation of Listán Negro).

For Sherry production, the oxidative nature of this grape is ideal, but for a varietal wine it can come up a bit short and neutral; acidification is not uncommon.

Verdejo

Not to be confused with Verdelho, grown mainly on Madeira Island, Verdejo is thought to have originated in North Africa and has made its modern home in DO Rueda and Castilla y León. Highly aromatic Verdejo wines are common in DO Rueda, where wines labeled “Rueda Verdejo” must contain at least 85% of the grape, although many are 100%. Aromas can include notes of bay leaf and bitter almonds, which can also come through on the finish.

Xarel·lo

As the interpunct (or punt volat in Catalan) isn't readily found on most keyboards, this grape is often written as Xarel-lo, Xarel.lo, or Xarello instead. The interpunct is important here, indicating that both l’s should be pronounced (ll is pronounced by most Spanish-speakers as ly).

Given that the interpunct is used in the Catalan language, it will be no surprise that the grape is originally from Catalonia, and 99% of the Xarel·lo vineyards in Spain are located there. The grape is used heavily for Cava production, often blended with Macabeu and Parellada but also produced as a varietal wine in both sparkling and still versions. With excellent body and acidity, its fruit can sometimes be overpowering, but lovely varietal still wines are being crafted. Producers are using varied methods, employing stainless steel tanks, oak barrels, amphora, and concrete eggs for aging, and both selected and ambient yeasts for fermentation.

Red Grapes

Bobal

There are around 90,000 hectares planted to Bobal in Spain, mostly in the Valencia and Castilla-La Mancha regions. The grape's name comes from the Latin word bovale, meaning bull, referring to the fact that the grape clusters resemble a bull's head.

Bobal responds well to cultivation at altitudes over 700 meters in elevation. Most of Spain's Bobal is used for bulk wine, though several wineries have been trying to work the grape into more elegant varietal wines. Generally smooth, it holds less alcohol than many other grapes in Spain (often 11%) and retains its acidity well.

Garnacha

Many think Garnacha is a French grape due to the fame of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, and others in the Rhône Valley. Spelled Garnatxa in Catalan, the grape is from Catalonia and Aragón and is the third most planted red variety in Spain (after Tempranillo and Bobal). It has countless mutations including Garnacha/Garnatxa Blanca, Garnatxa Peluda (Hairy Grenache), and Garnatxa Roja (Grey Grenache). Thankfully, an increasing number of winemakers are starting to see it as a quality grape capable of producing excellent varietal wines due to the bottles that started emerging in the 1990s from Priorat, Catalonia. Red fruit driven, Garnacha can have exceedingly high alcohol (15.5% or even 16% is typical), although this depends on the region, as the higher altitude vineyards in DO Méntrida can produce much lighter wines in terms of body, color, and alcohol.

Mazuelo

Mazuelo originated in Aragón, where it was known in Catalan as Carinyena and in Spanish as Cariñena. However, DO Cariñena does not permit the use of these names. The grape is usually labeled instead as Mazuelo in Spanish, or Samsó in Catalan. The latter is technically an old name for the grape as well, but it unfortunately sounds much like the French Cinsault, though the two are unrelated. Caranyena is yet another variation on the name. In English, the grape is typically known by its French name, Carignan—an ironic twist, as the grape has fared much better in its ancestral home than in France, where it earned a poor reputation due to overproduction.

The old bush vines of Mazuelo in Catalonia have done particularly well, with the finished wines carrying good acidity and floral notes, verging on light violets in the best examples. The grape is often considered only for blending, but many varietal wines are being produced these days. There are also excellent Mazuelo/Garnacha blends.

Mencía

Found mostly in northwestern Spain, Mencía has seen a significant resurgence due to the popularity of wines from DO Bierzo. It can also be found in DO Valdeorras and DO Ribeira Sacra. The grape’s initial appeal was that it produced light, aromatic wines but this has been changing as winemakers have gained experience and started producing denser, higher-alcohol wines as well. Due to this, taste profiles can vary wildly, but Mencía typically has red cherry and herbal notes.

Monastrell

Long believed to be an ancient grape brought to Spain by the Phoenicians in 500 BCE, documentation has been found dating Monastrell back to at least the 14th century in the Empordà county of Catalonia—though, of course, its Spanish origin can’t be proven fully. Most people won’t know Monastrell by this name, as it’s typically referred to by its French name, Mourvèdre. In Australia, it’s known by the other old Catalan name, Mataró, and in coastal Penedès, it is also known as Garrut.

Monastrell sits just behind Garnacha in terms of overall plantings, with the highest concentration in Murcia. Often rustic in character, varietal bottles are becoming much more common and show a good balance of the grape’s high alcohol, tannins, and blackberry notes.

Tempranillo

This is it, the Spanish grape—and why not? Despite being most famous in the wines from Rioja, it is grown just about everywhere in the country under countless different names, from Jacibiera or Cencibel in Castilla-La Mancha, to Tinta del País in Ribera del Duero, to Ull de Llebre in Catalonia. Tempranillo means "little early one" (tempranillo is the diminutive of temprano, meaning "early"), a name given because it ripens about two weeks earlier than most Spanish red grapes. Many assume Tempranillo is a warm-climate grape, which isn't necessarily the case. Rather, it needs to be planted in the right soils and in climates that are appropriate for early-ripening grapes in order to thrive.

Over 200,000 hectares are planted to Tempranillo, mainly due to the fact that it's very pliable. At its most basic, it holds red fruit notes such as strawberry, but it can also develop spice, tobacco, and leather notes, depending on the aging regimen. The wines from Ribera del Duero tend to be a bit denser than those in Rioja and can be full varietal wines, but given its generally neutral aromatic profile, Tempranillo takes well to blending with other grapes such as Garnacha and Mazuelo, which give the finished wines a bit more zing.

Trepat

What was once a relatively unknown, rustic grape in Catalonia, Trepat (also known as Bonicaire in Murcia) has been recuperated at a fast pace. Initially, it was popular for making rosé and going into Cava, but this has given way to pale reds, then deeper, more profound reds. Despite an overall lightness, these show good aging potential. The wines are dominated by fresh red berries and hold excellent levels of acidity. A great deal of effort is being put into the promotion of this grape, specifically in DO Conca de Barberà of Catalonia. It's one to watch.

More Discoveries

These are just a few of Spain’s native grapes, including a few up-and-coming varieties, but there are many more waiting to be discovered, like Prieto Picudo, Sumoll, Manto Negro, Callet, and Morenillo, to name just a few more. Hopefully, in the next chapter of Spanish winemaking, the country’s abundant native grapes will receive the attention they deserve.

The Wines of the Croatian Coast

Miquel Hudin — Mon, 11 Jul 2016 15:06:00 GMT

In recent years, Croatia has shaken its image as a war-torn country crawling out from the disastrous breakup of former Yugoslavia, thanks in part to the touristic appeal of the blue-green Adriatic Sea. Following its independence, Croatia’s wine cellars were heavily privatized and modernized, and today, wine production in this country of only 4.5 million people rivals that of Canada. Even so, its wines continue to be a "discovery" for those who taste them.

Croatia has two main zones of production. The interior, continental area stretches from the hills around Zagreb to the border of Serbia. The coastal area nearly touches Trieste, Italy, to the north (only 40 kilometers of Slovenian coastline separate the two countries) and reaches as far south as Montenegro. Winemaking is drastically different in the two regions. Since the coastal wines are the ones more often encountered, it makes sense to introduce the wines of Croatia beginning with the coast and its two regions: Istria in the north and Dalmatia in the south.

History

Considering its location, it’s no surprise that a vast number of kingdoms and republics have ruled the Croatian coast throughout its history. An Istrian will often joke, "My grandfather was born in Austria, my father in Italy, me in Yugoslavia, and my son in Croatia—all without ever leaving our village." Dalmatia’s history, however, has been a bit more stable. For several centuries, it existed as the Ragusan Republic and was then absorbed into the Venice city-state.

The area’s winemaking history, like that of most all of Southern Europe, stretches back even further. There is strong evidence that the Greeks cultivated vines in the region, followed by the Romans, then all who came after them. Dalmatia saw a great boom when phylloxera ravaged France, followed by a great decline when the pest arrived to Dalmatian shores.

The 20th century was not terribly kind to Croatia's coast, which was affected by multiple wars. And though the collectivism of Yugoslavian times helped reinvigorate grape growing and wine production that fed into central cellars, these were more or less "wine factories" and had minimal impact on quality.

Then, there was the Croatian War of Independence from 1991 until 1995, known in Croatia as the “Homeland War." Its legacy continues in northern Dalmatia, where some vineyards remain untouchable due to lingering landmines. With less conflict, Istria has fared a bit better.

The Croatian Language

Croatian is considered a dialect in the continuum of the South Slavic languages and, with three genders and abundant consonants, it is challenging to learn. With the alphabet mastered, however, the language is relatively simple, as words are pronounced as written. It is helpful to know a few basic elements of the alphabet in order to read wine labels.

Latin Alphabet Pronunciation

Character	Pronunciation	Notes
C	ts (as in cats)
J	y (like German)	Yugoslavia is actually spelled Jugoslavija
R	rolled shortly (like Spanish)	Often takes on vowel tendencies, e.g., trg (“square”) is pronounced terg

Croatian Characters

Character	Pronunciation	Notes
Č, Ć	ch	Č is harder and Ć softer, but even many native speakers can't hear the difference
Š	sh
Đ	dg (as in judge)	Can also be written as dj
Ž	zh

Vowel Sounds

Vowel	Pronunciation
A	ah
E	soft eh
I	hard ee
O	long oh (never the softer uh)
U	oo

Croatian Wine Terms

Croatia continues to use a number of terms and classifications inherited from former Yugoslavia, though there are efforts to do away with them. The main set of terms revolves around a rating scheme applied during the assessment that happens before sale, in the Croatian capital of Zagreb. This assessment is based on an analysis that identifies density, alcohol, total dry extract, total reductive sugar, sucrose, ash, total acids, volatile acids, pH, free SO2, and total SO2 as well as taste, sight, smell, and typicity to the wine’s region and grape variety. The resulting rating is placed on the label.

Many are opposed to the system, as it is based on dated concepts and has no flexibility. Not infrequently, a wine with a low rating will be far better than one with a high rating. Nonetheless, it is important to understand the system:

Stolno Vino: “Table wine.” This is the lowest rating but, unlike Vin de France, the term has no bearing on provenance.
Kvalitetno Vino: “Quality wine,” receiving the medium grade.
Vrhunsko Vino: “Excellent wine.”
Arhivo Vino: A rare designation for a wine of excellent quality to be aged long term.

Barrique also appears on labels, as Croatian winemakers want consumers to know when their wines have spent time in oak. More important terms are Suho (dry), Slatko (sweet), and Pola Slatko (half sweet).

The Wines of Istria

Istrian village

Geographically, Istria is located in the far west of Croatia, a somewhat independent entity removed from the rest of the country. The people there consider themselves Istrian first, Croatian second. They have their own dialect, which is Croatian tinged with Italian, and a unique cuisine that shows off the best aspects of the many cultural influences of their history.

Though these influences are many, there is a clear Italian leaning in Istrian food, language (children are educated in both Croatian and Italian), and wine. While a few French varieties have filtered in over the years, there are two dominant grapes: the red Teran and the white Malvazija Istarska.

There are also two main soil types. These are the white soils of limestone and the iron-rich red clay soils, which produce notably different wines.

Istrian Grapes

Malvazija Istarska, planted to well over 3,000 ha, is the main motor for Istrian viticulture. This spelling is meant to distinguish it from the dizzying number of other Malvasia grapes in the world, including one in the south of Dalmatia that's completely different. It’s hard to pin down an exact style for this grape, as the wines range from powerful and heavily oaked to more basic, fruity, refreshing, and young. In hot years, Malvazija Istarska can easily reach high alcohol levels.

Teran is the second most important grape of the region, with around 500 ha of vineyards planted. Its identity is disputed, as some say it is the same as Refošk (Refosco in Italian), with minor clonal differences, while others argue that these are different grapes. Regardless, Teran produces wines with good tannins that respond well to barrel aging.

Croatia has yet to fully define its appellations, but the association of Vinistra, something of a private appellation body, created an “IQ,” or “Istrian Quality,” designation in 2005 to mark quality wines that have met stringent guidelines. A version of this qualification was later implemented for Teran as well.

Notable Istrian Producers

Over the last 10 years, there has been a definite upward trend in the quality of wines from Istria. There are currently over 60 cellars in Istria, not to mention those in Slovenian Istria. A number of large cellars produce a majority of the wine, but smaller, boutique cellars are demonstrating what else might be possible. Some of the quality producers whose wines can be found outside of Croatia include:

Matošević
Kozlović
Piquentum
Trapan
Coronica
Roxanich

The Wines of Kvarner

The coastal Kvarner region located between Istria and Dalmatia produces some wine as well, though far less than its neighbors. Kvarner’s best-known grape is the white grape Žlahtina, believed to be native to the region. The most significant wine production takes place on the island of Krk, where Šipun Estate is a notable producer.

The Wines of Dalmatia

The most famous stretch of Croatia’s 1,800 kilometers of coastline is that of Dalmatia. The waters are warmer and clearer than elsewhere on the coast. Dalmatia is home to the appealing towns of Split and Dubrovnik (now famous as filming locations for Game of Thrones). And then, of course, there are the islands: all 1,200 of them, each seemingly more remote, rugged, and unexplored.

Contained within stony and unforgiving karst soils that plunge into the Adriatic is a viticulture treasure trove of native Croatian grape varieties, still being cataloged and analyzed to see how they connect to the rest of Europe.

Production is centered in the northern and southern portions of the region. Traditionally, most vineyards were planted on the sloping shores, but many new vineyards are being planted inland. There is also a great deal of wine production on islands such as Hvar, Korčula, Brač, Vis, Pag, Šolta, and Lastovo.

The stunning maritime city of Dubrovnik

Dalmatian Grapes

Red production is dominant in Dalmatia, with Plavac Mali the main grape. Other red grapes include Babić, Plavina, Lasina, Vranac, Dobričić, and Tribidrag. These last two have been identified as the parents of Plavac Mali, and DNA testing in 2000 found that Tribidrag (also known as Crljenak Kaštelanski) is the same as Primitivo in Italy and Zinfandel in the US.

A decade ago, Tribidrag grew in very limited amounts, but efforts to recuperate it have emerged in recent years. Some producers have labeled their bottles Crljenak or even Zinfandel. While it’s true that the wines share similarities with California Zinfandel and Primitivo from Puglia, Dalmatian Tribidrag is still in its infancy.

Plavac Mali, on the other hand, is very well established. Many expressions of the grape are available. Generally, it is quite fruit forward, with notes of eucalyptus. In the past, potent extraction was de rigueur, and the wines were a wall of flavor, a style preferred by the local market. More recently, extraction and new oak have been dialed back, revealing Plavac’s notes of limestone and other identifying characteristics.

Some of the most promising takes on Plavac Mali (and, for that matter, most of Dalmatia’s grapes) are coming from the more interior regions of Dalmatia, which are buffered from the sun and sea, with larger diurnal shifts. Also, in the more northern areas near Skradin and Zadar, there is more soil variation, which affects the profile of the wines as well.

Babić is another important red grape in Dalmatia, more typical in the mid-to-northern regions. It is quite thick skinned and deeply colored, with bountiful tannins. Many think the grape has an auspicious future and are working on producing wines designed to age.

Notable white grapes include Rukatac/Maraština, Debit, Pošip, and Malvazija Dubrovačka. Rukatac and Maraština are the local names for yet another Malvasia: Malvasia Bianca Lunga. Bianca Lunga is genetically very similar to the Malvazija Istarska found in Istria. It exists throughout Dalmatia, both on the mainland and on islands such as Hvar, Vis, and Korčula, though there are just 500 ha planted at most.

Debit is an unsung hero. Though it can be planted throughout the region, it is most often encountered in the middle and northern areas of Dalmatia. Often bold and full bodied, it can take well to oak aging.

Pošip is a star on the island of Korčula, where it was heavily planted during Yugoslavian times. Today, it can be found on the mainland as well. Despite the region’s heat, elegant wines can be made from this grape. Due to early export pushes by the cooperative on Korčula, the varietal versions of this wine are often found in the US under the label Marco Polo, as Croatians believe he was born on the island. Some antiquated references still confuse Pošip as a synonym for Furmint, but DNA evidence has proven it is native to Croatia.

Malvasija Dubrovačka, yet another Malvasia, is better known as Malvasia di Lipari. This grape is found throughout the Mediterranean and even on the Canary Islands. Though the grape’s origins are unknown, it has been documented in Dalmatia back to the 14th century, when the area around Dubrovnik was the Ragusan Republic. It is still found in this area though in small quantities, even though it is easy to farm and grows well in the more fertile area south of Dubrovnik.

Dalmatian Appellations

While a truly functional appellation system has yet to take hold in Croatia, there are several PDO appellations in Dalmatia that are recognized at a state level (unlike the voluntary IQ system, which is fully private). These are not a guaranteed mark of quality but do show provenance.

Dingač

This was the first appellation recognized in Croatia, and it remains one of the top regions for wine production. Located just over the coastal mountains, Dingač is accessible via a long, narrow tunnel from the village of Potomje on the Pelješac Peninsula north of Dubrovnik. It's a steep slope with a southwest orientation that tumbles down to the water.

Because of the way Croatian wines are labeled, many assume that Dingač is a grape. All of the red wines in this appellation are made from Plavac Mali. The wines can be quite high in alcohol, up to 16%, but this is slowly changing as winemakers approach the region with a more gentle touch.

Dingač vineyards on the Pelješac Peninsula

Postup

Like Dingač, Postup is a coastal appellation, located just 10 kilometers up the coast but with a much more southern orientation. The grapes here are Plavac Mali as well. Postup isn’t as famous as Dingač but is still a well-regarded region.

Notable Dalmatian Producers

A decade ago, there were few quality-minded producers in Dalmatia, and brett and vintage variance were significant issues. The wines have improved considerably in these areas. Further, while many young producers had to break their backs dragging their family cellars into the 21st century, recently, new cellars have been established, offering opportunities for faster development. In total, there are over 100 wineries dotting the Dalmatian coast. Here are a few producers to look for:

Bibich
Boškinac
Čara PZ
Duboković
Gracin
Kiridžija
Krajančić
Saints Hills
Senjković
Stina
Zlatan Otok

Conclusion

When exploring Europe’s wine regions from west to east, Croatia demands attention. It begins as familiar and reminiscent of Italy in Istria but pivots into an unfamiliar—but still approachable—realm in Dalmatia. With its complex history, striking geography, and abundance of unique grapes, the Croatian coast offers a tremendous wealth to be explored.

To learn more about Dalmatia’s wineries, check out Miquel’s book in his Vinologue series.

An Introduction to Clàssic Penedès

Miquel Hudin — Mon, 14 Mar 2016 13:38:00 GMT

In recent years, there has been a great deal of pushback against Spain’s Denomination of Origin bodies, accused by many of moving too slowly to modify outdated restrictions. Earlier this year, 150 winemakers and journalists working in Spanish w...(read more)