Stuart Morris

Sake Bombs, Omakase, California Rolls, and Spring Nama: A Day in the Life of a Sake Sommelier

Stuart Morris — Thu, 18 Oct 2012 11:46:00 GMT

Today is going to be good one! I have been waiting for this morning for weeks. It is the day when the first of the spring namas arrive. I have been anticipating these unpasteurized sakes all winter--spring is one of my favorite times for nama sake. This year, the first one to arrive happens to be one of my favorites: Koshi no Homare "Pride of Koshi" from Niigata. This nama is beautiful with notes of marzipan, bitter melon and pear. Since it is brewed in the mountains of Niigata, it contains a lovely mineral quality on the mid-palate. The goyagomangoku rice used contributes to a clean, dry finish as well. I am looking forward to seeing what people think about this sake tonight at Hana.

I begin my night by arriving before service to make sure all the sake is properly stored, and I taste all of them to make sure they still retain their fresh quality. This helps me determine which sakes I need to sell first tonight. I usually get about two weeks from an open bottle of sake before it starts to change. The older a sake gets, the more brightness and fruit notes it loses. The sake will become earthier and have a more alcoholic bite to it. This is not always a bad thing but it is not what the brewer intended. By that point, we will have to use it for cooking sake, which breaks my heart.

We open at 5:00 PM for dinner service and Hana usually starts getting busy right away. Lucky for me, most guests are very interested in sake. My first table is a couple who has never tried sake before. It is my chance to educate these people and introduce this beautiful beverage to them. I usually start by explaining that all my sakes are dry. In my experience, I feel most people want to put sake into two groups; dry or sweet. I try to explain that it is as complex a beverage as any beverage they have had. I attempt to make more it understandable by asking if they prefer an earthier style or a style with more fruit to it. They look at me like I am crazy. They tell me they have never heard of a sake that has fruit notes. Perfect--I now know what sake to choose: Dewezakura Dewa San San Junmai Ginjo. Produced in Yamagata, this sake has bright notes of green apple and pear, subtle floral notes, a round mouthfeel, nice acidity and a clean dry finish. My guests can't believe that sake can taste like this! Two more converts.

My next guests are local winemakers that have heard of the sake program at Hana and are skeptical that sake can be so versatile as to pair with several different courses. They have only drank hot sake in the past and to them it all tastes the same. These are my favorite customers. It gives me an opportunity to really change perceptions. They decide on the omakase, or chef's choice tasting menu, with a sake pairing. I love it when educated beverage professionals come in asking for the pairings. I really have to be on my game because they are educated in this field and ask the hardest questions so, it makes me work harder and continue to study so I can answer them. I love a challenge! While chef Ken San decides what he wants to serve for the first course, I get called to a new table that is interested in sake. They ask me which sake I recommend for sake bombs. This is the question that bothers me most because these people have absolutely no education about sake.I feel that it is my job to teach them about this wonderful, complex beverage and (ideally) change their sake bomb habits. After discussing what flavors they enjoy in wine, I get an idea about what kind of sake they might like. But I hear Ken San's voice calling me back to the sushi bar as the first course is ready for the omakase table: sake-steamed monkfish liver with ponzu. The monkfish liver has a sweet, ocean-y quality and rich mouthfeel. I pair Jozen Mizunogotoshi junmai ginjo from Niigata with the course; it has a round mouthfeel to stand up to the monkfish liver as well as a dry mineral finish to help cleanse the palate. For the sake bomb table, I pour a taste of the Yuho junmai from Ishikawa . Dry on the finish, it is full of dark plum stonefruit, and blood orange with umami in the mid-palate. They taste it, they like it...but they are really in the mood for sake bombs. So...I give them the least expensive hot sake I have because it doesn't really matter what it tastes like if you are just going to dump it in a beer. Can't win them all.

From across the restaurant, I see one of Hana's regulars--a favorite customer of mine--come in and sit at the bar in front of Ken San. who is busy getting ready for the next course of the omakase. He makes a Japanese dish called nutta, a cold dish that traditionally contains a mix of raw shellfish. At Hana, we usually use octopus, cuttlefish, scallop, and clam that has been tossed with a vinaigrette made from white miso, spicy mustard, and rice wine vinegar. I pair Yuki no Bosha junmai ginjo. It is full of fruit like strawberry and peach notes, it stands up to the miso, and has a white pepper finish that is perfect with the spicy mustard kick in the nutta. I head back to the sushi bar to talk to the my reglar guest, who is eager for my recommendation. Fantastic--My first Koshi no Homare spring nama sale of the year!

My next table is a couple who have read about sake in the Wine Spectator and other sources and are very excited to try it--but they are hesitant about where to start. Could be a fun table. They say that they love sushi and eat it all over world. They ask me to pair a sake with their food. Perfect! I am excited to introduce these adventurous people to sake. What are they eating? Omakase? Cool sashimi choices? Nope. The adventurous couple orders edamame...and three California rolls...with extra wasabi. Letdown. Well, at least they are interested in sake. Sigh. The next course for the omakase is ready so I head back to the sushi bar. This course is always challenging as Ken San likes to do a plate with several different kinds of sashimi on it. So, I have to pick a sake that falls in the middle. It can't be too big for the delicate fish or too light for the heaver fish. Ken San chooses four different kinds of fish: Umimasu (sea trout), Kampachi (amberjack), Katsou (bonito) and Kinmedai (goldeneye snapper). The sake that I choose is Gassan Ryu daiginjo. I think this sake is perfect for that middle ground: made from 100% Dewa San San rice and produced in Yamagata, it has lush cherry and pear for the richer fish like the Katsou but as a honjozo it has a clean dry finish for the delicate kinmadai. And back I go to Mr. and Mrs. California Roll to pair their sake. I choose the Isojiman Omachi tokubetsu junmai from Shizuoka. The Omachi rice gives sake a nuttiness to the nose like hazelnut or almond. The palate is full of juicy pear with a lean finish. It is very elegant and has good depth so it pairs well with all kinds of makimono (sushi rolls), especially the simpler ones. On my back to the bar, I see the next course for the omakase table has already been dropped so I hurry up to get the pairing going. It is tempura with maitake mushrooms, kisu (whitening fish) and shrimp. I love this dish. With tempura, I usually pair Suehiro yamahai junmai from Fukushima. This was the first brewery to make a Yamahai sake (in 1910) and they make a very elegant style. As a Yamahai, it is made with wild yeast, giving it a certain gamy quality--just enough of that yamahai funkiness to stand up to the rich fried food. It is also full of hazelnut, vanilla and white pepper which pairs perfectly with the fresh grated daikon we serve with the tempura.

One of the servers tells me there is a gentleman in the back of the restaurant who needs my help with sake. I take a look around to make sure all the tables have what they need and head back to talk to him about sake. He says he only drinks daiginjo and he wants me to pick one for him as long as it is not expensive. I ask him what is it about daiginjo that he likes? He says it is the best, so of course it is what he drinks. (Personally, I like junmai and honjozo better--I feel they pair better with food and have a firmer structure.) I want to try to get this guy interested in other sakes too, so I tell him that I'll pick something for him to sample. As I'm heading back to get the sake for him, I look over to the bar and my regular with the Koshi no Homare nods and at me to let me know she is ready for a another glass. I give her a glass of sake I don't normally sell but happen to have open, Mastou No Kotobuki junmai. This is a round sake with notes of peach and honeydew and a nice clean acidity. On my way back to the "I only drink the best as long as it is not expensive" guy, Ken San waves me down: the next course of the omakase is ready. Seared wagyu beef with miso-scallion sauce and reduced balsamic, a difficult dish to pair with sake. Most people think of sake in white wine terms and assume it does not have enough body to pair with something like beef, but I happen to have a sake that pairs very well with beef. One of my all time favorites, Denshu from Aomori, is a round junmai with a full mouthfeel of chestnut, mushroom and cream that works well with grilled beef. I head back to the gentleman that likes daiginjo. As a fan of sakes that are milled more, I assume he likes lighter and cleaner styles of sake. I decide to go with a old favorite: Jozen Mizunogotshi junmai ginjo. A nice, clean sake with hints of stonefruit and a dry mineral finish. He loves it and buys a bottle. We are onto the last savory course for the omakase and Ken San's favorite, sushi. Sushi presents more of the same problems as the sashimi; plus, the table just had a rich sake (the Denshu with the beef course) and now they are going back to the delicate flavors of sushi. These can vary from clean white fish like hirame (halibut) to toro ( bluefin tuna belly) and anago (sea eel). So, I can go a few different routes here. I can use a nama sake in this situation because it is bright and lively but I decide to go in a similar direction as I did with the sashimi, and choose a special ginjo from Yamagata called Oka. This year is the thirtieth anniversary of this label of sake so they made an extremely limited amount of anniversary sake in a manner as close as possible to the original recipe they made thirty years ago. We were lucky enough to get some at Hana, and I love to use it for this course. What the Gassan Ryu did with the sashimi the Oka does for the sushi. Oka has the same cherry, pear, floral palate but is much lusher and weightier in the mouth, which works well with the vinegar in the rice, and the sake progress nicely from the heavier styles before it.

I have been so busy that I have not had time to look at the clock. When I finally get a chance to look, service is soon coming to an end. Around this time, we always get the late chef rush. Chefs are getting off work and want to stop by for some sushi on there way home. I see one group of chefs from a local restaurant that come in all the time and I already know what sake they will want, Born muroka nama genshu from Fukui. This sake is a muroka which means that it is unfiltered, but not cloudy like a Nigori. They let the rice settle to the bottom of the tank and take the sake off the off the top which makes for a bigger and richer sake. It is also a genshu which means they do not add water back to the sake to bring the alcohol level down. It is full strength at about 20%. This produces a full, rich mouthfeel, and this sake does not disappoint. It is filled with rich notes of cream, lemon and lots of umami. The last course of the omakase is headed to the table so I run to get the sake that pairs best with yuzu sorbet. Yuzu is a Japanese citrus fruit with a flavor somewhere between a lime and a grapefruit. Sake and dessert is always challenging because I feel that most sweet sakes have no balance or depth. They lose what it is to be sake. They are just sweet, sticky and one-sided, like drinking corn syrup. That is why I tend to choose Jokigen "Sweet Dreams" from Yamagata; it has great balance and nice acidity but most of all it hasn't lost what it is to be sake. "Sweet Dreams" has lots of very lush stonefruit, vanilla and clean acidity and it pairs well with the yuzu because of the tart sweetness of the citrus.

The night is winding down and Ken San calls me to the sushi bar. He makes me two natto ( fermented soy bean paste) hand rolls and I pour him a beer. We finish up service and sit down to talk about the night, which went well. He asks about my pairings, which sakes I sold, and about tomorrow's service. This time at the end of the night also gives us a chance to catch up. I eventually head home hoping my wife is still up so I can talk to her about my day and hear about hers. But I get home too late and have to settle for ESPN. Tired, I head to bed, but suddenly remember that tomorrow Kami ko Koro "Tokigen" comes in. Another new spring nama! So, I know tomorrow is going to be another good one.

Stuart Morris is the Sake Sommelier for Hana Japanese Restaurant in Rohnert Park, CA. Stuart enjoys pairing sake with not only sushi but also with the most popular seafood dishes to demonstrate the complementary nature of the beverage. He has many regular diners who come from throughout Northern California for his unique pairings. Whenever a diner is interested in a sake pairing, Stuart will provide personal commentary on the selected pairings so that diners leave with an education and newfound appreciation for the beverage.

My Life in Sake

Stuart Morris — Mon, 19 Mar 2012 11:07:00 GMT

"I was lost on a street corner in Toyko, several minutes late for my Kikisake-shi test, the Japanese Master Sake "Sommelier" exam. I had only a set of directions to the examination hall, written in Japanese characters, and my own limited command of the language to guide me. The first policeman I stopped spoke no English, but he was able to grasp my problem and pointed me in one direction, scribbling down more cryptic Japanese to light my way. Lost again. Another man I stopped pointed me in another direction. As an American I am sure that I stood out like a sore thumb, and I asked person after person to guide me. 10 totally helpful, but utterly non-English speaking people later, I finally found my way. In this way, Sake also may at first appear indecipherable."

I fell in love with sake the first time I tasted Kubota Senjyu from Asahi Shuzo in Niigata. At the time, I was living in the U.S. Virgin Islands, working for a sub-par sushi bar. I had always been interested in sake, but as I stood at that bar in St. Thomas and savored its taste, I sensed that sake would become a very important part of my life. I was working as a chef then, but sake became my passion and I hunted down everything bottle I could get my hands on—friends and family even sent bottles from the mainland to supplement the few selections I could find on the island. I continued cooking for many more years, eventually arriving at a restaurant in Napa, but in my spare time I relentlessly studied sake. When I passed the Kikisake-Shi test in 2009, I could finally make sake my sole focus and career.

My first trip to Japan was one of the best experiences of my life. I had no idea what to expect, my Japanese was terrible, and I could barely find my way around. I soon found out that the Japanese are some of the most hospitable people in the world. While in Tokyo, I tried some amazing food, from sushi at Tsukiji Market to chicken sashimi at a fantastic yakitori shop, but it was the whole new world of sakes that really caught my attention! I drank my way through Tokyo, going into one izakaya after the other, pointing to all of the sakes that I wanted to try. It was amazing! I was able to tour several breweries, including Shirataki Shuzo in Niigata, a kura nestled high up in the mountains and enveloped in falling snow during most of my March visit. Here, I got a hands-on experience in brewing sake from start to finish. I could see the importance of each ingredient and each step in the sake making process, from the importance of the water—in this particular case, the high mineral content from the mountain water gives the sake a full, weighty mouthfeel—to the different varieties of rice and their flavor profiles. I observed the production of shubo, or “mother of sake”, a concentrated yeast created by combining steamed rice, rice, koji, water, and yeast. What impressed me most, however, was the meticulous attention to cleanliness and organization. If precision is not maintained, missteps can drastically change the final product. Every small detail in sake brewing determines the quality of the final product, and timing is crucial. For example, the length of time required for even a simple task like soaking the rice can vary, depending on the rice variety and how recently the harvest occurred. It was a profound experience that brought sake into focus for me. Of course, the best part of my stage Shirataki Shuzo was the soba shop down the street. They made fresh soba every day, and they only had ten seats. You had to wait forever, but it was worth it! I ate there every day….

Three years ago, I became one of few non-Japanese to pass the Kikisake-shi test in Tokyo. This intensive test is eight hours long and split into five parts. The first two parts are written exams; the first—probably the hardest exam that I have ever taken—focuses on brewing styles and techniques. Examples of its content include “What is Karacuchi style?” and “Who started yeast association no. 7?” The second exam tests a candidate’s knowledge of the history of sake. “What were the most significant advancements in sake during the Yayoi period (400 BC- 794) period?” The third section involves a blind tasting on six different sakes: I had to correctly name the style and rice used for each sake. I had thirty minutes to taste and write down the correct answers, but after those written exams my mouth was so dry from anxiety that I was lucky I could even taste them! The fourth part is a demonstration of traditional Japanese sake service; by this point my hands were shaking so badly I could barely pour the sake. The fifth and final section is an in-depth discussion on pairing sake with food. The judge suggested several different Japanese dishes and I had to offer various styles and particular brews of sake that would pair with the dish, and explain the rationale behind my choices. It was an incredible experience that truly changed my life.

At Hana, whenever we sell sake by the glass (rather than by the bottle) we pour the sake tableside into a glass resting in a masu, a small wooden box. I pour enough to slightly overflow the glass, demonstrating the generosity of the house. (Tajime Shuzo, Chikusen Karakuchi Junmai Genshu pictured)

Primer In Sake Making

Sake is mostly made up of only three major ingredients; water, rice, and koji mold (Aspergillus oryzae). Each ingredient is extremely important in the sake-making process and the quality of each ingredient—or its imperfections—shines through in the final product. The toji must be constantly monitoring all three to yield a quality product in the end.

The Quality of Water

As water accounts for 80% of raw materials used for sake production, it is an extremely important ingredient. Most sake breweries originated near a great water source. Water plays such an important role in sake production the entire brewery is permeated by the same water that is used for the sake. Breweries will wash equipment with only that particular water; employees only drink that water; some breweries go so far as to not allow any outside water into the brewery at all. The brewery water, or shuzo-yosui, is divided into two categories: jozo-yosui (best water) and binzume-yosui (bottle water). The jozo-yosui must be abundant in potassium, phosphorus and magnesium; these minerals help yeast propagation and aid in the development of koji. It must also be low in iron and manganese, as these minerals change the color and flavor of sake. Jozo-yosui is used for washing and soaking the rice, and for the production of shubo. Breweries use binzume-yosui to top off and dilute finished sake, and to clean equipment. Sake brewing water is also classified as either hard or soft. The hardness of water is measured by its levels of calcium and magnesium. Hard water yields stronger and more masculine sake, whereas soft water yields a light, clean, and feminine sake. Regional sakes include flavors unique to that area, stemming from the natural balance of the compounds found in the local water. This is not “terroir” in winemaking sense, but it is a similar concept. The three most famous water sources are Miyamizu, Gokosui, and Fukuryusui. Miyamizu is from Nada in Hyogo—the most famous hard water source in Japan. This water is high in minerals, particularly phosphorus and potassium, which are perfect nutrients for koji-kin. Gokosui is from Fushimi in Kyoto. This water has a lower mineral content overall, and it is extremely low in iron, an attribute which creates a sweeter, delicate, and more feminine style of sake in comparison to the drier and more masculine sakes of Nada. The third type of water is Fukuryusui, sourced from Mt. Fuji in Shizuoka. Snow and falling rain on the slopes of Mt. Fuji seep deep into the volcanic soils underground. This natural, purified spring water has a balanced mineral content, with a ratio of three parts calcium to one part magnesium. Fukuryusui has a crisp flavor with a soft mouthfeel.

The Rice Grain

Like wine grapes, the rice used for sake production are not the varieties you would use for the table. Sake rice is far starchier than table rice, and each individual grain is larger and hardier, as it has to be able to stand up to the friction and heat created in the milling process. The most desirable brewing rice is hard on the outside and soft on the inside. There are around 100 varieties of sake rice being used today throughout Japan. Here is a short list of some of my favorites:

1. Yamadanishiki, Hyogo This is most popular variety of sake rice. 60% of all sake is made from this rice grain, which yields a complex, slightly sweet sake and commonly has a vanilla note.

2. Gohyakumangoku, Nigiita Light, airy, clean sake with a dry finish.

3. Omachi, Okayama Rich, complex sake and usually has a nutty nose.

4. Hattannishiki, Hiroshima Light, flavorful sake with earthy undertones

5. Dewasansan, Yamagata Complex and not too dry style of sake, usually with pear and apple notes.

6. Kame no O, Nigaata Richer in flavor and drier than most sake rice varieties. This usually yields a more acidic sake.

7. Hanafabuki Aomori Rich, flavorful sake with mushroom or umami on the palate.

8. Haenuki, Yamagata, Very clean and dry sake.

9. Oseto A rare rice from Kagawa which is earthy and distinctive. Currently only one brewery makes all their sake from this rice grain, Ayakiku from Karawa.

Making the Koji

In the koji-making process sake brewers face different challenges than winemakers. Unlike grapes, rice grains do not contain sugar. It must be created by the action of the koji mold, which converts the starch in the grain into sugars. The propagation of koji on steamed rice is considered to be the very heart of the sake brewing process. Immediately after the steamed rice is cooled to 33° C (97° F), it is transferred to the koji room known as the muro. The rice is then spread out and the koji is sprinkled like a fine dust on the rice. This process is called hikkomi. In the next step, spores are kneaded into the rice and the rice is heaped together and wrapped in cloths to prevent heat and moisture loss—the mold is extremely sensitive to both at this point, and skillful control of this part of the process may be the most important step in sake production. It is crucial to keep the temperature even while the koji mold is growing. After approximately ten hours, workers spread, mix and wrap the rice again. This step is called kirikaeshi. In about twenty hours, the mold becomes visible in the form of white flecks on the rice. By this time, the temperature of the rice begins to rise so it is separated—in a procedure known as mori—into smaller batches and put into wooden boxes for more control. Seven to eight hours later, the temperature of the rice has risen and the rice is mixed again to maintain consistent heat and moisture. This process is called naka shigoto. At this stage, the mold covers one-third of the rice grain, and shows a characteristic white color and distinctive aroma. Each wooden tray is agitated to move the rice around, and then the stacking order is reversed to compensate for the variation in moisture and temperature in the muro. As the koji grows, it gives off more heat so frequent checks are needed to maintain the proper temperature as to not impede its growth. Six or seven hours after naka shigoto is complete, the temperature will reach 39° C (102° F), and white spots of mold will cover most of the grain. The rice is mixed a final time, and the last stage—shimai shigoto—begins. The temperature usually rises to well over 40° C (104° F). The wooden trays are restacked one more time to compensate for the different temperatures and moisture levels in the muro. When the koji has reached it desired taste and aroma, it is removed from the muro and allowed to cool, stopping the growth of the mold. The finished koji is usually sweet due to the production of sugars, and hard to the touch because most of the moisture in the rice evaporates during the shimai shigoto. The finished koji usually rests for a day before use.

The propagation of the koji is so vital that the koji master will wake up every hour to check on its health—for the entire brewing season!

Some Favorites

I am currently the sake sommelier at Hana Japanese Restaurant in Rohnert Park, California. Many customers demand daiginjo sake, because it is widely considered the best. For me, I love honjozo, junmai, ginjo and daiginjo, but I do not consider them to be grades of quality; rather, I consider them to be three different styles. Each has positives and negatives. There is no doubt that daiginjo sake is the most difficult to make: it requires the most money and it is time-consuming to produce. Therefore, it is always going to be more expensive, but that does not always make it the best sake. At Hana, I prefer to make my list based around junmai, honjozo and junmai ginjo: these sakes are often more food-friendly and cost-effective. We serve a lot of tasting menus, and Chef designs the menu based on what he thinks each individual customer will like. For a menu like that, I have to come up with sake pairings on the spot! Following are five of my favorite sakes I use on a regular basis.

From left to right: Suehiro Shuzo (Denshou Yamahai Junmai), Shirataki Shuzo (Jozen Mizuno Gotoshi Junmai Ginjo), Fuji Shuzo (Eiko Fuji Hon Kara Honjozo), Miyasaka Shuzo (Miyasaka Yamahai Nama 50), and Nishida Shuzo (Denshu Junmai)

Nishida Shuzo From Aomori The name of the sake is Denshu; it is a junmai made from hanafubuki rice, which lends a richness and umami quality. This is a perfect pairing with rich foods like stews and Kobe beef.

Eiko Fuji from Yamagata The name of the sake is HonKara, an abbreviation of two sake terms: honjozo and karakuchi. Karakuchi indicates a traditional method of brewing in which the brewer keeps the yeast just above the point of freezing, so that it converts the glucose into alcohol much slower; thus, the yeast remain alive and the sake becomes fully dry. This sake is brewed using haenuki rice. It has light, silky mouth feel with hints of tropical fruit (mango), lime and juniper. There is a marshmallow-like sweetness to the mid-palate, and the sake pairs well with oysters and sashimi.

Shirataki Shuzo from Niigata Jozen Mizuno Gotoshi is a junmai ginjo sake made from Gohyakumangoku sake rice which gives it a nice dry finish. The front palate is full of stone fruits like nectarine and apricot. The brewery is in a mountainous region, and they use run-off water from the mountains for their sake, which imparts a mineral content. On the palate the minerality reveals itself in a way akin to the taste of melting snow. This sake pairs well with shellfish, cured fish, and miso-marinated cod.

Miyasaka Shuzo from Nagano Miyasaka Yamahai 50 Nama is unpasteurized sake brewed in the yamahai style, with 50% of the rice grain milled away. Yamahai sakes are produced by a traditional method of brewing, wherein lactic acid is not added to the moto. Instead, nature takes its course. The moto naturally makes it own lactic acid and fights off unwanted bacteria. This process produces a heartier, gamier style of sake—a food-friendly style that I love! This example shows peaches, cream, and bergamot. The rice gives it an earthy mid-palate and it finishes clean. Since this sake is also unpasteurized, it is really bright and lively. I use it often for rich dishes like our sake-braised pork belly with poached egg, but the brewery suggests German sauerbraten.

Suehiro Shuzo from Fukushima Suehiro, the first brewery to produce yamahai sakes, makes one of the best: yamahai junmai. It is round, smooth and well balanced with hazelnut and white pepper notes. There is a hint of sweetness with a nice umami finish, and it is an elegant example of the style. I pair this one with tempura and mushroom-centric dishes.

Unfortunately, sake is a misunderstood beverage, often due to a lack of education. Even for people interested in sake there is little to no information available in English. I hope this changes over time, and America may more access to sake in the future. So in the meantime, my goal is to continue to educate wine-loving people on this beautiful, food-friendly beverage. Hopefully, we can bring a end to sake bombs forever!

Photos by Kali Kirschman