Yoon's Blog

Seven Flights of Historical California Wines

Yoon Ha — Thu, 01 Apr 2010 14:39:00 GMT

On Sunday February 28^th, I had the privilege of attending a tasting of mature, benchmark wines from California. Mr. F, a very prominent collector, who had attended the event that was the topic of my earlier blog, A Sommelier’s Ultimate Experience, had very generously invited me to his residence in Calistoga to join seven of his peers in tasting these historical bottles from his cellar. The table was set beautifully, adorned with a dizzying array of mellow cheeses, charcuterie, patés and breads.

The Welcome Wine

1978 Mayacamas Chardonnay (photo not shown)

The wine was amazingly intact. The fill level was at 5 cm and the color was a mature medium gold with flecks of bronze. The wine did show whispers of aldehydic/fino notes which, when checked by the lemon/honey candy, morphed into flavors of salted sweet butter on the palate. There was nothing nutty and tired on the nose or palate. I was informed that the wine did not experience malolactic fermentation (not intentional, at least), which didn’t’ surprise me, as I found that the acidity provided the order and organization of the magical mature flavors.

Flight 1

1968 Hanzell Pinot Noir, Sonoma Valley

1971 Hanzell Pinot Noir, Sonoma Valley

1973 Hanzell Pinot Noir, Sonoma Valley

My knowledge of the 1968 vintage in Northern California is limited, but I recall that there were some amazing wines produced. A couple of years ago, Alice Heitz ordered a 1968 Napa off the list and it showed beautifully. The 1968 was the clear winner. It has the deepest color with the ripest and purest fruit. Wonderful dried spice and dried mushroom notes, but not advancing to truffle quite yet.

In comparison, the 1971 was medicinal with hints of dried fruit peering under the bitter finish.

The 1973, the most elegant of the flight, showed dried, high-toned red fruits, dried herbs and leather without volatility. It was the palest wine of the flight. Everyone agreed that the 1968 was the winner, as did I, but there was an elusive, discreet magic about the 1973. Amazing that these pinots could taste like this after thirty-seven plus years.

Flight 2

1978 Stonegate Steiner Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County

1978 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma

1978 Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains

1978 Beringer Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley (photo not shown)

The producer, Stonegate was a first for me. This was one of the strongest flights, as I had anticipated. I had always held the 1978 vintage in high regard and I found this flight to be no different. The Stonegate was the ripest, plushest and the most richly textured of the flight. The fruit was still ripe and articulate. The tannins were velvety sweet.

If the Stonegate was remarkably primary for its age, the Chateau Montelena was much more serious. The nose was very poised - a great balance between dried fruits, earth, smoldering tobacco. It wasn’t as plump and filling on the palate but showed more drive and intent with more architecture/carpentry. For me this was the wine of the flight for its complexity and energy.

The Ridge was the most backward of the flight with aromas of horse, brettanomyces, damp leather and medicine. It was much more enjoyable on the palate, but faint fruit was dominated by savory flavors of beef jerky, soy sauce and dried mint.

The Beringer Reserve drinking very well. It showed generous fruit but what separated it from the Stonegate were the leather and earth notes. A very pleasant wine but the tannins were aggressive on the finish, thus shortening the flavors.

Flight 3

1975 Sterling Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

1975 Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains

1975 Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill, Napa Valley

The Sterling almost nudged out the Diamond Creek as the wine of this flight. The nose was very pretty. Dried red fruits gave way to savory black truffle, beef jerky and dried tobacco leaf in a medium body, well-balanced acidity and velvety tannins. This wine, I was informed, was made by Ric Forman.

In contrast, the Ridge was backward – medical, minty with unclean aromas of damp bark, brettanomyces and a touch of TCA. Fruit was difficult to locate.

The Diamond Creek was the most authoritative wine of the flight. Still dark in color it showed big dried fruit aromas with carbon and charred earth notes with savory meat undertones. The tannins were still big but the abundance of fruit kept the wine in balance. I estimated a drink window of another 15 years.

Flight 4

1974 Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains

1974 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon

1974 Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill, Napa Valley

As 1974 is the most fabled Cabernet Sauvignon vintage in Napa Valley, we had very high expectations. The Ridge was remarkably similar to the 1975 from the previous flight. It was bretty and horsy, but showed more fruit and dried mint. The wine was much better on the palate, revealing more fruit than on the nose. This was the most tannic of the Ridge wines so far. The finish was moderately long, if a bit tart at the very end.

The Mayacamas was the wine of the flight, showcasing dried red/purple fruits, hard earth minerality. The wine was very pure and clean and the mouthfeel was supple and elegant.

I had the highest hope for the Diamond Creek, but it did not show well. It was dominated by maderized notes of brown sugar, sherry with cooked prunes and porty aromas and flavors. The wine finished with huge coarse tannins.

Flight 5

1970 Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

1970 Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains

1970 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

1970 Yverdon Cask 152 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

1971 Yverdon Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

The Souverain was delightful, displaying a medium red core with aromas of well-focused dried red fruits, a pleasant hint of brettanomyces, truffle and leather. Medium bodied with supple tannins and pure expressions of fruit. So much so that it seemed a bit short on complexity.

This was the best Ridge of the night. Still a bit of brett and horse with dried mint, but with fruit to balance these notes. The flavors were a bit jumbled – dried red fruits, salt, mint, meat with a finish dominated by tannins that were still big.

The Mayacamas, for the second time, was the wine of the flight, showing beautiful dried red/purple fruits against dark mineral, smoke, truffle and dried leather and herbs. This wine edged out the Souverain due to the riper tannins, better symmetry and overall complexity.

I had never heard of Yverdon and learned that it is currently Terra Valentine of Spring Mountain. The 1970 Cask 152 was intact, showing good fruit, but a bit medicinal and a bit volatile on the finish. The 1971 displayed leather, truffle, salty and fertile earth notes with an abundance of plump fruit. It was easy to like due to the plump fruit and roundness of the mouthfeel, but left me wanting more complexity.

Mystery Wines

1970 Chateau La Mission-Haut-Brion

1970 –1972 (blend) Martin Ray Cabernet Sauvignon, Saratoga

1970 Inglenook Charbono, Napa Valley

Everyone took note that the La Mission was a departure from what we had tasted thus far. However, due to the theme of the tasting, only one person had the discipline to deduce what was in the glass and took it to the old world. Everyone guessed the wine to be much older than it was due to the color, which was a very pale, transparent, a faded pale ruby core with an orange/brown rim. The wine showed much more cut and articulation. It was more linear with lower viscosity that showcased dried red berries, dried herbs, juniper and iodine. It was very complex and much more discreet than the others.

The Martin Ray, on the contrary, displayed generous fruit with sweet leather, herbs and dried cigar. The fruit was really packed in, defying its age with abundant aromas and flavors. This was a first for me, an encounter with a wine that was neither NV nor single vintage.

The Charbono was distinct. I was taken by the color an opaque, black purple, but the aromas were mature. Dried purple/black fruit with a very distinct roasted/dried sanguine aroma. I entertained the Northern Rhone Valley, but the color was too dark. Once on the palate I knew was way off course. The wine was full-bodied, with big tannins and abundant fruit. And the color was deeply concentrated. Mr. F, the host, gave us 2 clues: “New world and not a Cabernet Sauvignon”. The collector to my right called Charbono.

Flight 6

NV Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

1968 Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

1969 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley (corked)

1969 Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

1968 Robert Mondavi “Unfined” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

No one could elaborate on what vintages the NV Sourverain contained. The wine was generously proportioned with fruit that was up front with notes of tobacco and dried earth, albeit a bit simple.

The 1968 Souverain showed more complexity and refinement. There was a direct kinship of aromas and flavors between the two, but the ’68 was more nuanced and elegant with a long, lacey finish.

The Mayacamas (it replaced the corked ’69 Souverain) was, for the 3^rd time, the most compelling wine of the flight. The wine showed dried tobacco, mint and leather notes backed by expressive dried red fruit. The wine displayed great mouthfeel, sleek with supple, well-matured tannins.

The 1968 Mondavi was a stellar wine. Curiously, it was the only wine that displayed a layer of mild baking spices of nutmeg and cardamom. It was the most exotic of the wines with notes of dried roses, violets and dried cherries. On the palate the wine was plump, broad and showcased more fruit than earth with supple tannins, balanced acidity and a long finish.

Flight 7

1972 Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

1973 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

1973 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Stag’s Leap Vineyard, Napa Valley

I’ve had some experience with older Heitz Cabernet Sauvignons. I remember three years ago when Alice Heitz came in with her family and ordered the last bottle of 1968 Napa from our list. She offered me a glass and informed me that there was no new oak, that the wine was vinified and aged in huge oval uprights. The 1973 reminded of the 1968. Heitz Cabernets always distinct because they can simultaneously be discreet and wild and I find their structure to be unique - built from the inside out rather than from the outside in. The ’73 showed intriguing dried herbs, dried tapenade and dried red fruit on a sleek and elegant frame.

The 1972 Mondavi was the most compelling wine of the flight. This past year I’ve had the privilege of tasting many of the Mondavi Cabernets from the ‘70s and I’ve found them to be consistently intact and very complete. This wine exhibited generous fruit backed by leather, dried tobacco and leather. It was more ample on the palate, showing plush texture and silky tannins.

The ’73 Stag’s Leap cabernet sauvignon was the wine that made history at the Paris Tasting in 1976. I learned that vines that were only 4 years old at the time. The wine was sound, but not particularly memorable when compared to the Heitz and Mondavi. A discussion took place on what this wine might have tasted like in Paris in 1976. What was its appeal? Why was the impact of this wine more profound than the others? And how would it line up against the current vintage of 2006? How will the 2006 show in 2043?

With the exception of 2 bottles (one corked, the other maderized) the bottles were in immaculate condition. Ullage levels were no lower than lower-neck for Bordeaux-shaped-bottles and no lower than 3cm for Burgundy-shaped bottles. A tour of Mr. F.’s ample cellar prior to this tasting revealed a truly extraordinary collection pampered with immaculate storage practices.

Darkness approached and the tasting came to a conclusion. It was a magical evening of learning and enjoyment. Thank you for reading.

Germany Day Two - (video) "A Good Pinot is Like a Red Riesling"

Yoon Ha — Sun, 24 Jan 2010 14:37:00 GMT

To say that this second entry is belated (The Riesling Enrichment trip took place almost 4 months ago) is a gross understatement and I apologize for the gap. However, I did manage to amass quite a bit of video footage throughout that week. The most compelling visit on day two was with Klaus Peter Keller of Weingut Keller in the Rheinhessen at his estate in the village of Florsheim-Dalsheim. In the footage below Klaus Peter shares very poignantly, among other topics, his desire to expand Spatburgunder plantings, the resurgence of dry Rieslings, thoughts on terroir, usage of new oak and his love for red Burgundy. He loves whole cluster fermentation for his Spatburgunder and shares a technique of ripening the stems that will surprise you, to say the least.

www.youtube.com/watch

In this second clip, Klaus Peter speaks about his Riesling "von der fels" bottling, which is sourced from younger vines from his Grosses Gewachs vineyards of Morstein, Hubacker and Kirchspiel. He shares his insight on mildew control, his preference for using pheromones in lieu of pesticides and his thoughts on irrigation. As always, Klaus Peter shares his knowledge with great candor and generosity. Please excuse some rough/raw spots in the footage. I look forward to posting additional video clips in the near future. I hope you enjoy.

www.youtube.com/watch

A Sommelier's Ultimate Experience

Yoon Ha — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 14:37:00 GMT

Last Friday night I had the honor and privilege to provide wine service for eight prominent wine collectors at La Toque. I had spent a week researching the wines and worked with Chef Ken Frank to create an eight-course menu. This was show time. These men had dined at every significant restaurant in the world, experienced the best cuisine, wine and service. Would I be up to the task? As a sommelier, this would be the most significant night of my career.

I received the wines a week earlier and arranged them upright in the cellar (some of the wines had been upright for over a month, I was informed). Given the age of the wines, they were in great visual condition. I was also given the list of the wines in sequence of service with detailed instructions. Some were to be decanted, some not. Some were to be decanted in advance but others just prior to serving. Also the timing requirements were very specific. All wines were to be poured just before the food was served. For courses that featured multiple wines, there were specific intervals to be observed before the second wine was to be poured.

I used the cellar as my staging area and opened all of the bottles (except the mature champagne and tokaji) as instructed. Removing the corks proved to be a messy endeavor (only 3 intact extractions) but I managed to removed all of them and render the wines free of cork. I have learned that a wine key with a long worm and a broad helix works best. My objective was to avoid excessive downward pressure as mature corks can easily slip into the bottle. With mature bottles, I often find the cork fused onto the sides of bottle which renders the prongs of the osso useless. Miraculously all of the bottles smelled sound.

One of the guests was Francois Audouze, world renown for his incredible collection of old wines and the fabled dinners at which they are enjoyed. He kindly asked if he could accompany me to the cellar to examine the wines. I had done some research on Francois and he had a very unique method of handling old wines. For still wines he likes to open them 5 hours before serving. If they smell great, he puts the cork back in. If they seem tight, he leaves them alone, uncorked until service. He calls this “slow oxygenation” and you can read about his method at www.academiesdesvinsanciens.org. Three of wines, as he put it, were “being shy”: ’29 Margaux, ’55 & ’62 Leroy La Romanée. I followed his recommendation and held them at room temperature until service. Earthy truffle notes dominated the Margaux and both of the Burgundies showed a streak of tapenade, but by the time they were served, the earthy/savory notes gave way to reveal beautiful, mature fruit. It was hard to believe, but true. These wines were from notable vintages so they may have had an increased ability to withstand the effects of air. Still it made me reconsider how we automatically assume that air is detrimental to old wine. Francois showed me how the opposite can be true as every wine improved throughout the evening. I would never have imagined this possibility had it not been for this encounter.

In creating the menu, the Chef and I agreed that the food could not meet the wines squarely, despite the fact that most represented benchmark vintages. Without the luxury of tasting the wines during menu development, we erred on the side of caution decided that the flavors needed to enter the wines from underneath rather than from above. Our goal was to nudge the wines into a greater grandeur. At best, the food would flesh out and elongate the flavors of the wine. At worst, it would shorten and dry them out. The task of creating the dishes required great control of sweetness, acid, earthiness, flavor depth and texture. The sequence of the line up was very instructive. I recognized that the men had designed a flavor trajectory and my research into the producers and vintages confirmed this. There was an obvious ascent that would build into a peak, followed by a couple of gentle descents before moving onto the sweet wines. Below is the evening’s menu.

1959 Laurent Perrier Grand Siecle (fill level normal)

1952 Krug (fill level normal)

Russian Osetra & Potato Rosti

This was a study in champagne styles. As expected, neither showed any effervescence, and the LP showed more color development. The Laurent Perrier had developed tremendous richness, honeyed, round and generous and it squared off nicely against the briny richness of the caviar. The Krug was refined, fresh and poised displaying much more cut with whispers of spice and toast. It accented the oceanic minerality of the caviar.

1998 Chateau Haut-Brion Blanc (fill level normal)

1928 Chateau Haut-Brion Blanc (fill level low neck)

Rhode Island Day Boat Scallop, Squid Ink Tapioca & Hollandaise Sauce

The ’98 showed very fresh passion fruit and fig followed by smoke and mineral notes. It had tremendous weight but was also very articulate. It aligned with the minerality of the squid ink and its acidity mirrored the acidity of the hollandaise sauce cloaked in butter and egg.

The color of the ’28 was incredibly concentrated, resembling a young Sauternes. The aromas were dominated by honey, wax and clarified butter, yet it was still fresh! On the palate, it was massive and oily, with deep honey tones but completely dry. I had never encountered anything like this. My best description of the wine is that of a dry Sauternes with development. The wine favored the scallop, paralleling its sweet flesh and the fatty texture. There was also great textural harmony with the fluffiness of the hollandaise sauce.

1929 Chateau Margaux (fill level high shoulder)

Alaskan Halibut, Celery Root Mousseline, Parmesan Porcini Broth

Despite this highly regarded vintage, my research showed that Margaux was inconsistent and this was confirmed by its placement in the sequence. When first opened, the wine was dominated by truffle, but following Francois’ recommendation to let it rest in room temperature as opposed to cellar temperature, the fruit emerged 2 hours later. The neutral flavor of the halibut and the subtle earth and sweetness of the celery root never challenged this elegant wine. The pungency of the porcini subdued the truffle notes in the wine, while the umami of the Parmesan evoked more fruit. The method of cooking of the halibut was a very gentle moist bake to retain the delicate texture and avoid the dry caramelization of the outer surfaces.

1947 Chateau La Mission Haut Brion (fill level mid-neck)

Nilgai Antelope, Braised Lentils & Root Vegetables Pearls

Everything I had read about this wine turned out to be true. Some describe this legendary wine to be port-like as it was extremely hot in September, resulting in many stuck fermentations. The wine displayed inky dark color, immense sweet fruit and tremendous length. How could a 62 year-old wine still taste like this? I was alarmed by the sweet fruit and began to panic, as the wine’s sweetness would “hang” over the dish, but this didn’t turn out to be the case. The natural sweetness of the root vegetables (parsnip, carrot, and turnip) gave the sweet fruit of the wine a place to go and settle down. Once this was harnessed the wine came into tighter focus and great balance. The clean flavor of the antelope (not wild, but farmed and grass fed) and the earthiness of the lentils supported the wine to a long the finish.

1945 Chateau Latour (fill level low neck)

1945 Chateau Latour-a-Pomerol (fill level low neck)

Braised Angus Beef Short Rib, Soft Corn Polenta

The course is where the flavors reached a peak and the Chateau Latour demonstrated immense power and authority. The color was still deep purple and showed generous black fruit on the nose with seductive gravel and dried tobacco accents. On the palate the wine was full-bodied and the ripeness of fruit was unbelievable. Many at the table were discussing that this wine was the most age-worthy red wine in history and I now saw why. The crop was tiny due to frost, but followed by ideal weather the wines of this vintage is one of the most prized in history. Of course 1945 also marked the end to World War II. The best Pomerols from ’45 were known to be just as powerful as those from the left bank, but in contrast to the Latour, this particular bottle of the Latour-a-Pomerol was all finesse. The color was a medium red with slight browning at the rim. A blend of 90% Merlot 10% Cabernet Franc, the wine showed elegant red fruits, beautiful flavor transparency and brighter acidity through a medium body. While the Latour had the stuffing to accommodate to the deep flavors of the braised short rib and the mellow sweetness of the soft polenta, the Pomerol was a bit over-matched. The Chateau Latour with the braised short rib was Mr. Audouze’s favorite pairing.

1926 Chateau Cheval Blanc (fill level high neck)

1926 Chateau Haut-Brion (high shoulder)

Wolf Farm Quail, Chanterelles & Rich Mushroom Jus

The objective of this course and the wines was to initiate the gentle descent from the power of the previous course. The Cheval Blanc’s high fill level was due to its reconditioning at the Chateau in 1994, as the photo above shows. The cork had been replaced and came out in one piece. As I served the wine, I was shocked by the color. It was pallid brick and orange at the center and extended out to an orange/tan rim, by far the least pigmented wine of the evening. I thought it would be darker, assuming that it would have been reconditioned with at least some young wine. I grew concerned but when I tasted the wine, the palate mirrored the nose. Delicate dried red fruits followed by sandalwood, smoldering tobacco leaf, dried flowers, and truffle. The aroma was so seductive that this wine was more Burgundy than Bordeaux, displaying majestic flavor transparency and a long, lacy finish. The Haut-Brion was the complete opposite. The color was inky and opaque. The wine resembled the ’45 Latour in its ripeness, body and structure, but showed more precision. The gravelly minerality and the pipe tobacco notes underlined the still plump fruit. Mr. “S”, one of attendees, informed me that ’26 was a sleeper vintage, given the strength of the vintages of ’27, ’28 and ’29. The wines entered the quail dish from opposite sides. While the riper Haut-Brion entered the flavor realm by immediately latching onto the meaty richness of the quail, the Cheval Blanc remained motionless until quail’s flavor gave way to the earthiness of the chanterelles and the mushroom jus, building rhythm toward a very long, impressionistic finish.

1955 Leroy La Romanée (fill level normal)

1962 Leroy La Romanée (fill level normal)

Chick Pea Ravioli & Classic Micro Mirepoix with Fresh Burgundy Truffle

With this course the descent of savory flavors would be completed with the silky texture and gentle fruit of the mature Burgundies accompanied by the mellow flavors and pillow-like texture of the ravioli. The reasoning of the two-course descent, according to Mr. Audouze, was to not shock the palate with sweetness immediately following the most powerful dish and wine. The fill levels on both wines were exactly the same and they smelled identical from the bottle – tight with a streak of tapenade and dried red fruits and damp spice underneath. As Mr. Audouze had suggested with the ’29 Margaux, I took them out of the cellar and staged them in the warmer environment of my service table. I smelled the wines again just prior to serving (3 hours had elapsed). The tapenade and earthy notes parted to pure, beautiful red fruit. The ’55 was served first as it was expected to be more subtle, but the opposite was true. The ’55 showed an abundance of fruit, perfume and was very open. The aromas leapt out of the glass, which surprised me because what little information found didn’t hold ’55 as a benchmark vintage. The ’62 was considered superior to the ’55 but it not as expressive. However, the wine was greatly improved by the ravioli dish. The earthiness of the porcini mushrooms and the nuanced chickpea ricotta filling emboldened the wines presence, evoking more fruit and volume.

1898 Chateau La Tour-Blanche (upper shoulder)

1921 Chateau Suduiraut (lower neck)

1912 Tokaji Esszencia (lower neck – necks longer on 500ml)

Gorgonzola, Honey & Butter Roasted Almonds

Initially, these sweet wines were to be served separately with their individual course, but on the day before the dinner, they opted to have the three served together. They would also forgo dessert and replace it with Fourme d’Ambert. Even though the dessert never came to fruition, the chef and I went through the exercise. In pairing wine with dessert, the level of sweetness had to be spot on. We agreed that the nature of sweetness was just as important. We concurred that such wines were best approached with a dish that derived its sweetness from honey, brown sugar, caramel and butter. Sweetness derived from fresh fruit had to be avoided because its freshness would unnecessarily accentuate the age of the wines. A mellow sweetness and an equally mellow texture was required, such as you might find in a crème caramel, flan or panna cotta.

Fourme d’Ambert is a cheese that the chef has no problem acquiring, but this happened to be the case on Friday. So it was substituted with an Italian Gorgonzola, also made form cow’s milk with a very similar flavor and texture profile. I could not find any information on the 1898 vintage in Sauternes but the wine displayed immense authority and power with tremendous depth of color and extremely honeyed flavors. The texture was fat, unctuous and waxy and finished with a spiced caramel note. The one hundred and eleven year-old wine was perfect. Unbelievable. The Suduiraut suffered a different fate. My research confirmed 1921 as a monumental vintage, but this wine showed fatigue. The wine was starting to dry out and finished short with a roasted, nutty and bitter note. The 1912 Tokaji Esszencia was a whole other level of sweetness. There was no capsule or foil and the cork was covered with hairs of cladosporium caellare. This was the only wine which was to be uncorked just before service (I imagined this wasn’t because the wine couldn’t handle air, but a safety check to see if a third sweet wine was really necessary). It was. The short cork came out intact, steaming aromas of apricot and orange marmalade and flowers. The bouquet was very pure, free of caramel tones. Pouring the wine into very small tulip shaped stems required great control due to the smallness of the target, compounded by the wine’s oil-like viscosity. The residual sugar must have been around 600g/l but the wine miraculously showed balanced acidity. The alcohol, as you will see below, was 2.5%. The Esszencia and the La Tour-Blanche possessed the sweetness to harmonize with the deep, pungent, spicy and salty profile of the Gorgonzola. Texturally they were both right on and had no problem handling the creaminess that came from the 45% milk fat. The 2 wines worked in distinct manners. With Esszencia, the cheese became a part of the wine on the finish, while La Tour-Blanche gently folded into the flavors of the cheese on the finish. While the power of the Gorgonzola washed out the Suduiraut, the honey and butter roasted almonds did very well with the wine.

After the gentlemen’s departure some 5 hours later, I sat down and reflected on what I had experienced. I had the honor of providing wine service to some of the most prominent collectors in the world. I also had the honor of tasting these rare treasures that reached back into the previous century. And as if this wasn’t enough, I was intimately involved in the menu creation and had the privilege of tasting these wines in the context of food. I also learned a great deal from these gentlemen throughout the evening, in addition to the “slow oxygenation”. For example, the reason for the string of great vintages of the 1920s in Bordeaux could be because it was pre-phylloxera. And the next string of great vintages would not be seen until the 1980s, when the vines regained their maturity. I am very grateful for this a once in a lifetime experience. It was very rewarding to relive it and share it with you. I hope you enjoyed.

Germany Day One

Yoon Ha — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 12:32:00 GMT

I recently returned from a visit to the Rheinhessen, Nahe and Mosel regions of Germany. I was a recipient of the Riesling Enrichment Scholarship offered by the Guild of Sommeliers and I’d like to share my experience with you.

The pace was vigorous with 4-5 appointments daily. Our days started at 7:30 AM with breakfast and ended well into the evening after dinner. I landed in Frankfurt on Sunday morning and was driven to Hotel Merian in Oppenheim, where I was joined by other American sommeliers. As Sunday was our travel day, we had the rest of the day to ourselves until dinner with Johannes Geil-Bierschenk of Weingut Geil I. Erben, a VDP estate, later in the evening.

The seven of us decided to tour the village. Oppenheim is an old city that dates back to the Medieval period. The streets are cobble-stoned and narrow lined with tall adjoined buildings with arched roofs displaying colorful trim accents and flower boxes. The highlights of our tour included a quaint town square, the the Katharinenkirche, Oppenheim’s main church and a vineyard of what appeared to be Riesling or Scheurebe.

When we returned, the proprietor of the hotel offered to drive us to an open house at Weingut Grohl, according to him, the best producer in the area. After a ten- minute drive through gently rolling vineyards, we exited the van, entered through huge gates and into a frenzy of activity. Most German wineries are located right in the village so they’re easy to miss (look for the plaque on the wall). Typically the huge gates open to a big courtyard to accommodate trucks bringing in fruit with the winery built in a U-shape around it. As harvest was still a week away, the courtyard at Grohl was turned into a true Weingarten, filled with picnic tables where people enjoying schnitzel prepared from the large tented kitchen. In a large L-shaped room to the right, there was a mind-boggling display of about 70 wines to taste, from sekt to cabernet sauvignon and everything in between. We learned that this was a once a year event in which every bottling of the current vintage was available to taste. I found the quality level to be very good; the standouts included a 2007 Alte Reben Riesling Trocken, a 2008 Scheurebe Trocken and 2006 Spatburgunder, St. Laurent and Fruhburgunder also from old vines.

We met Johannes Geil-Bierschenk of Weingut Geil I. Erben for dinner at Weingewolbe, a quaint restaurant in Bermersheim, a village 15 miles southwest of Oppenheim. Johannes was tall, slender and appeared to be in his early-mid thirties. Weingut Geil is located in the village Bechtheim and dates back to 1821. They hold just over 27 hectares and produce 18,000 cases annually. 85% of their production is white, with Riesling accounting for 35%. Bechtheim is located in a valley floor west of the Rhein where the soil composition is mostly chalky loam and loess so the wines showed a generosity in both flavor and texture. Over a delicious dinner of salad, beef carpaccio and roasted local chicken he informed us that he had recently acquired complete autonomy of the weingut from his father, Karl. His greatest impact since taking over was reducing yield in the vineyard, currently averaging 50hl/ha. He was also experimenting with cultured yeasts and acknowledged that both strains had their advantages and drawbacks. Fermentation for the whites takes place in old stück of various sizes in a cool cellar. The white wines are aged in old stück on the lees without stirring and racked once before bottling.

Johannes had brought seven wines to share with dinner. With the salad course we enjoyed a Scheurebe trocken and a Muskateller trocken, both 2008. The wines were very expressive with white floral aromas and yellow fruit over a stony minerality, ending with bright acidity and a pleasant hint of bitterness. Next we enjoyed the Riesling trocken and Silvaner spätlese trocken “S” (indicating reserve) both 2008 and from their top site Bechtheimer Geyersberg. The wines showed more power, depth and weight, especially the silvaner. The rich minerality of the wines echoed the iron note of the carpaccio while the acid structure paralleled the dill vinaigrette. The main course of local chicken with hedgehog mushrooms (it was peak season for mushrooms in Germany) was served with herb boiled potatoes and a mustard cream sauce. Johannes opened a Scheurebe Kabinett Bechtheimer Heligkreuz 2008 and a Riesling spätlese “S” Bechtheimer Geyersberg 2003. The RS gave these wines more presence, lending to their ability to respond well to the deeper flavors and the increased weight of the dish. The Riesling was especially delicious and well balanced given that it was warm vintage in which Kabinetts were scarce. He said that this wine was just now gaining its identity as it was very awkward in its youth. Johannes said that the oechsle was over 100 degrees but the wine did not seem loose at all. I asked if the wine was acidulated he said no. He said that the temptation was there, but he resisted. He elaborated that it was an option of either creating the balance early by adding acid and risk it coming too aggressive later or allowing for the balance to come naturally through aging. The wine was perfect with the dish, showing nice harmony and ichness.

As dinner concluded I was very excited about the future of the Rheinesseen, a region I had largely ignored. Driving back to the hotel, our guide, Michael Schemmel of the German Wine Institute believed the Rheinhessen to be the most exciting region in Germany. “Nowhere else in Germany will you see this type of collective dedication to quality happening so quickly.” Perhaps this was because there was so much improvement to be made in the first place. It was, after all, the home of Liebfraulmilche. The bull’s eye accuracy of Michael’s assessment would be realized tomorrow with our visit with Klaus Peter Keller. Stay tuned for day two.

Food & Wine Pairing

Yoon Ha — Fri, 04 Sep 2009 18:36:00 GMT

The most unique feature of La Toque Restaurant is the food and wine-pairing program. Every presentation on the menu is paired with a distinct wine, including dessert. I present the wines prior to each course and briefly share with guests some facts about the wine and the pairing strategy. The wine and food program has become so successful that it accounts for 70% of our wine sales mix. I’d like to share with you a pairing I recently created.

My approach to every dish, in regards to pairing with wine, bears a striking resemblance to the Court’s blind tasting method. I visually deduce the dish down to its parts prior to tasting. This allows me surmise how the ingredients will manifest their presence. As I taste the dish, my goal is to understand the function of each ingredient, the nature and level of their contribution, and how their cooking method(s) have influenced the flavor experience. In other words, I confirm, subtract, or add to my visual assessment.

The featured dish is a starter course, a salad of Kona kampachi, Hass avocado, and Asian pear. The kampachi, avocado, and Asian pear are diced to order and tossed in a yuzu, wasabi kizami, and canola oil emulsion. Folded into the mixture are masago tobiko and micro shiso leaves. The mixture is formed with a ring mold and topped with masago arare (masago is Japanese for “small” and arare refers to popped rice balls). The final touches include additional emulsion on the plate, micro shiso garnish, and a quenelle of masago tobiko.

The Deduction:

Kampachi

Buttery flavor, silky, meaty texture, flavor foundation

Avocado

Rich, buttery flavor, subtle nuttiness, supports the texture and flavor of kampachi

Asian pear

Introduces a mild sweetness and creates a crunchy texture to contrast that of kampachi and avocado
Water content to prevent muddling of flavors

Yuzu & wasabi kizami emulsion

The acid and spice offset the sweetness of the Asian pear, brightens the flavors
Provides moisture and allows the salad to be molded

Micro shiso

Introduces a fresh green, leafy flavor to the dish
Visual appeal

Masago tobiko

Ocean-like briny sweetness, light umami
Texture that is both moist and popping
Visual contrast

Masago arare

Neutral flavor, textural variety, the only dry, crunchy texture in the dish

What comes to mind first is the raw nature of the dish. Nothing has been cooked with heat to deepen the flavors. Because everything is fresh, I can gauge the flavor weight to be relatively light. Brighter white wines without oak aging come to mind. As I taste the dish, three key fundamentals are revealed: The sugar structure (Asian pear and masago tobiko), the acid structure (yuzu kizami emulsion), and their relationship within the flavor spectrum of the dish. The buttery, luxurious flavor of the kampachi and avocado is at the center, flanked by acidity and sweetness in perfect balance.

My instincts lead me to Riesling for its opulent fruit and bright acidity. Because this dish is governed by the sugar/acid structure, this is my first priority in selecting the wine. A troken Riesling would be too austere and full-bodied, and a spatlese would bring too much sweetness into the pairing. This indicates kabinett as the correct ripeness level.

Freshness is what drives this dish, so I look for a Riesling that will honor this freshness. Excessive alcohol, weight, and residual sugar can overwhelm so I look to the cooler region of Ruwer and have selected the 2007 von Schubert Riesling Kabinett Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg, Mosel.

Thanks for reading. I look forward to posting again soon.