The Ethical Sommelier

Ethics are one of the big grey areas that we in our wine community rarely talk about. The rules are not defined and one must determine for themselves where they set the standard. Below are a series of scenarios. There are no right or wrong answers… although some of the extremes would certainly get you fired and/or ostracized from the sommelier community.

Drinking on the Job

As sommeliers, it is obvious that we always taste wine; mostly it is on the clock. That is the part of our work that seems to be the most glamorous to the general public. Lord knows, we have all worked with chefs that drink during service. But how far do you personally go?

a.       Only taste before service and always spit

b.      Smell check when opening bottles during service and only taste when a bottle is questionable

c.       Taste every bottle you open all night long- just enough to check it (and hold a light buzz)

d.      Only drink at work when it is an extremely stressful shift

e.       Start drinking once the last table has been seated

f.        Start drinking once the first table has been seated

Buying allocated wine for yourself

This has to be one of the most hotly contested ethical issues. I have heard every argument in the book as to why this should or should not be done. On the one side, some sommeliers feel that this is a perk to the job. Others do it to hold the restaurants allocation in dry years. Wine makers loathe this practice for obvious reasons and restaurant owners would probably want the first right to take the wines, rather than the sommelier. Which of the following have you done?

a.       Allocated wines are for the restaurant only. If we are not in the position to take them, we pass.

b.      Occasionally I will buy valuable wines from the restaurant, but only for my own collection

c.       If the restaurant can’t keep a pricy allocation, I will sell it to a collector for a profit that goes directly to the restaurant

d.      I buy rare wines that are earmarked for the restaurant and sell them to collectors for my own profit

e.       I sometimes take cases of cheap wine that I would never normally serve at the restaurant so that I can get a couple bottles of something valuable that I buy for myself

Refusing service to guests

Lets face it: we work in the booze business and nightly our guests drink way more than they should. But it is also our job to sell it to them. Do you ever say no? I am sure that every one of you has had the following dilemmas during service. Which of these situations would keep you from serving?

a.       a guest orders an expensive bottle of champagne for their daughters 16th birthday dinner. It is presumed that she will be drinking it with them (you know, because the Krug Rose comes in such a cute box…)

b.      A regular guest and his date come in for dinner. They are clearly drunk. They sit at the bar and order two rounds of martinis before sitting down. Once they have sat, clearly hammered, they order two bottles of wine.

c.       A VIP of the restaurant and her friend have just finished their second bottle of wine. They order a third and you know that they are driving. The third bottle is $300.

Entitlement to the cellar: Opening wines that belong to the restaurant

So, your cost is not just in line, and perhaps it is even low. This gives you room to do some cool things. A couple bottles of wine will never be missed. Which of the following have you/would you do:

a.       Nothing. The additional profit belongs solely to the owners

b.      Open some fun wines that are a little pricy to pour for VIPs in the restaurant (of course this way you can taste it too)

c.       Open something great for your sommelier friends that happen to come by the restaurant after work

d.      Open wine to share with the staff at the end of the night

e.       Take a bottle out of the cellar to an industry function

f.        Take a bottle of wine home

Perks from suppliers and wineries

Wine representatives use every resource they have to get us to buy their wine. At what point are you beholden to that brand? And if your list placements have been bought, is that problematic for you?

a.       I never take meals, wine, or money.

b.      I let wineries take me out to lunch or dinner

c.       I go on wine trips, but only when they are sponsored by a group (Wines of Argentina) rather than a winery (Catena)

d.      I will go on any free trip that comes my way- even if it means that I will be supporting that brand in the future.

e.       Sometimes I get a free magnum of wine when I purchase a couple cases for the restaurant. It is the only reason I ordered the wine, and I take that magnum home

f.        A rep friend of mine gets a commission on every case of a specific wine that I order. They split their commission with me

g.       A supplier discreetly gives me a check for all of my by the glass placements that come from them

I have encountered every one of these scenarios and have determined where my own ethical boundaries lie.  Isn’t it about time that as a community we discuss what that code of ethics should be?

Anonymous
  • This is GREAT!

    After Humilty this is my second hot button topic.

    I have offended many Sales people and fellow wine-buyers alike with my stance on free-bees. I do not accept anything to influence my decisions as to placements on the list. I have had sales reps come right out and offer to "cut me in" on a sale. NO WAY, and if you make that offer when we are out socially, get ready for a bar-brawl. I cannot stand this accusation against  my integrity. The problem is the sales people don't know that they are insulting your integity as so many have come before us that didn't have this perspective.

    i work 60 hours a week, i study everyday, i try to improve my skills as a sommelier and leader everyday. i don't work like this to be "bought"

    there is a very clear difference between the honest sample, a true gift and a bribe.

    Many of us have grown close to those whom make wine over the years, many of my friends in California are now winemakers with thier own labels, we have an understanding: show me a wine i don't believe in and i will be brutally honest. This is a fuzzy area for many and this is were the problems start.

    a few other points:

    i have drank at work in the past, i never will again, even socially.

    I am very responsible about alcohol, I am well known for being Sommelier / Bouncer in a few joints over the years, i even cut off a guest at a beard house dinner!

    i open and blind taste my staff 3 times a week, this is only when cost is right and always to educate and understand many of the diverse products we carry. aside from the random taste from a guest this is the only time wines not by the glass are tasted by the staff.

    I am a tyrant about tasting/ drinking at work, it is very important to taste your team on the wines you carry, as we all know, however we spit always! no exceptions, Grand Cru Alsace? spit spit spit.

    I guess it is because i have had the dis-PLEASURE of working for so many irresponsible people over the years, those bad examples have been more potent in ways than the good examples on what sort of "Sommelier" i am trying to become.

    Emily this is a great discussion you have started. thank you.

  • Wow, Emily you have opened Pandora's Box!

    I do not know where to begin. I have seen most of the scenarios occur firsthand. I might not have the rivers of Germany memorizied, but honesty and ethics have been my strong suit. How many offers do you think I received for my 2005 DRC allocation? The Ritz could not afford to increase inventory and it went away.  The hotel didn't want to flip it ( too tough to figure the cost% , plus they wouldn't pay my commission on the sale)

    Hopefully, the red-nosed, gin-blossumed sommelier with the taste-vin is a thing of the past. When you are a Floor sommelier, you need your wits about you. Working with a litttle buzz, is like working a little pregnant. People will know, especially your co-workers!!

    Refusing service is tough in a hotel setting. People just respond "Just point me to the elevator" or worse " My company brings in $$$ to your hotel and we won't be back next year". But I also had the POWER to offer our over served guests a room at a friendly rate so they wouldn't drive home.

    Now the PERKS PART.  Living in Northern California is great! I enjoy visiting and staying at the wineries. That is a perk that is very important to my wife. It helps make up for the long hours, and the MIA weekends and holidays. The Sommelier Summits have been highlights of the year. I sometimes will buy wines that have been featured at dinner or lunch, but I have never bought a wine just to win a trip. I also do business with people I like and trust. But recieving any cash under the table for placements, NO way!!

    Will they have an Ethics section on the next Advanced exam?

    BRING IT ON!!!

  • While reading this my mind was racing through all the different scenarios, and the choices that I have made. When you first start out in the business it is easy to get pulled down the wrong path but I was lucky and had a great mentor that helped me make the right choices. The one area that I really had to think about was perks from suppliers. I will admit that I have gone on wine trips for the purpose of my education but never to the point where I had to sell my soul.  It is always disappointing when you hear that someone has been let go from their position for helping themselves to the wine cellar, didn't they realize that was stealing?

    I would love to hear some opinions on a, b, and c of the topic buying allocated wines.

  • Wow! Shed a little on the community! All very well documented and of course some I have come accross and can agree with, and also side check before making the right or wrong decision. I think as professionals we should be the role model, and not care taker not the recipient or bamboozaler of the jobs we pride ourselves in. Well written Master Wines.