Ethics are one of the big grey areas that we in our wine community rarely talk about. The rules are not defined and one must determine for themselves where they set the standard. Below are a series of scenarios. There are no right or wrong answers… although some of the extremes would certainly get you fired and/or ostracized from the sommelier community.
Drinking on the Job
As sommeliers, it is obvious that we always taste wine; mostly it is on the clock. That is the part of our work that seems to be the most glamorous to the general public. Lord knows, we have all worked with chefs that drink during service. But how far do you personally go?
a. Only taste before service and always spit
b. Smell check when opening bottles during service and only taste when a bottle is questionable
c. Taste every bottle you open all night long- just enough to check it (and hold a light buzz)
d. Only drink at work when it is an extremely stressful shift
e. Start drinking once the last table has been seated
f. Start drinking once the first table has been seated
Buying allocated wine for yourself
This has to be one of the most hotly contested ethical issues. I have heard every argument in the book as to why this should or should not be done. On the one side, some sommeliers feel that this is a perk to the job. Others do it to hold the restaurants allocation in dry years. Wine makers loathe this practice for obvious reasons and restaurant owners would probably want the first right to take the wines, rather than the sommelier. Which of the following have you done?
a. Allocated wines are for the restaurant only. If we are not in the position to take them, we pass.
b. Occasionally I will buy valuable wines from the restaurant, but only for my own collection
c. If the restaurant can’t keep a pricy allocation, I will sell it to a collector for a profit that goes directly to the restaurant
d. I buy rare wines that are earmarked for the restaurant and sell them to collectors for my own profit
e. I sometimes take cases of cheap wine that I would never normally serve at the restaurant so that I can get a couple bottles of something valuable that I buy for myself
Refusing service to guests
Lets face it: we work in the booze business and nightly our guests drink way more than they should. But it is also our job to sell it to them. Do you ever say no? I am sure that every one of you has had the following dilemmas during service. Which of these situations would keep you from serving?
a. a guest orders an expensive bottle of champagne for their daughters 16th birthday dinner. It is presumed that she will be drinking it with them (you know, because the Krug Rose comes in such a cute box…)
b. A regular guest and his date come in for dinner. They are clearly drunk. They sit at the bar and order two rounds of martinis before sitting down. Once they have sat, clearly hammered, they order two bottles of wine.
c. A VIP of the restaurant and her friend have just finished their second bottle of wine. They order a third and you know that they are driving. The third bottle is $300.
Entitlement to the cellar: Opening wines that belong to the restaurant
So, your cost is not just in line, and perhaps it is even low. This gives you room to do some cool things. A couple bottles of wine will never be missed. Which of the following have you/would you do:
a. Nothing. The additional profit belongs solely to the owners
b. Open some fun wines that are a little pricy to pour for VIPs in the restaurant (of course this way you can taste it too)
c. Open something great for your sommelier friends that happen to come by the restaurant after work
d. Open wine to share with the staff at the end of the night
e. Take a bottle out of the cellar to an industry function
f. Take a bottle of wine home
Perks from suppliers and wineries
Wine representatives use every resource they have to get us to buy their wine. At what point are you beholden to that brand? And if your list placements have been bought, is that problematic for you?
a. I never take meals, wine, or money.
b. I let wineries take me out to lunch or dinner
c. I go on wine trips, but only when they are sponsored by a group (Wines of Argentina) rather than a winery (Catena)
d. I will go on any free trip that comes my way- even if it means that I will be supporting that brand in the future.
e. Sometimes I get a free magnum of wine when I purchase a couple cases for the restaurant. It is the only reason I ordered the wine, and I take that magnum home
f. A rep friend of mine gets a commission on every case of a specific wine that I order. They split their commission with me
g. A supplier discreetly gives me a check for all of my by the glass placements that come from them
I have encountered every one of these scenarios and have determined where my own ethical boundaries lie. Isn’t it about time that as a community we discuss what that code of ethics should be?
A code of ethics should be proposed.
I will say that I personally have not been the most ethical sommelier, and I can recognize that now.
“Let he who is without sin cast the first stone” – John 8:7
With that being said the Wine Business shapes and molds ones ways of thinking. We must envelop integrity and values in the profession. Unfortunately though, the business is not black or white, right or wrong. And very much like religion it is very personal and unparalleled.
Ethics are tough because you get into a slippery slope.
The proposition of ethical behavior needs to be assessed by the restaurant/employer and stated in their policy. Every outfit is run differently from one another. Though there are situations where there is no policy in writing so I guess you come back to the idea of having an Ethical Sommelier Ten Commandments sort of law.
Heres where I stand on the different issues raised:
Drinking:
Only tasting of the wines opened for guests or staff training(includes wbg). No actual drinking though. Even though you may incur a slight buzz after tasting multiple wines over the course of service. Somewhat of a gray area.
Allocating wines for yourself:
Give me a break! I have friends who try and justify this to me time and time again. This is a no go zone. Unless you are the owner, or the owner expresses to you to do this. Allocated wines should be off limits. Besides, how many sommeliers out there can actually afford to buy enough of these wines where it becomes an issue. No wines to be allocated, final.
Refusing service:
Yes. It is your ultimately your call. Refusing service sometimes needs to be done. If not someone could die, and you could be involved as an accomplice to a crime. And even if it is a big spender, they will understand when they sober up. If they don’t, you don’t need their business anyways.
Perks from wine suppliers and the like:
I am a wine supplier.
I invite clients/friends out all the time. These are established relationships and it is all merely a thank you for business and fostering good will. I have seen events though where buyers have actually requested dinners at very exclusive restaurants, and actual physical gifts. This is a line that should never be crossed, but it is. This topic goes from Right(or o.k.) to grey and finally to black.
At the end of the day the decision lies within you. A decision you made yesterday may be opposite to a decision you make today even with a very similar set of circumstances. Hence the Grey area that Emily mentioned. Good luck coming up with a list of guidelines…