The Greeks played a fundamental role in the history of wine. They not only spread vines and knowledge of winemaking to many nations but also were extremely enthusiastic consumers, incorporating wine into a range of cultural activities. This created lasting associations that continue to inform wine’s elevated reputation and stature. Wine was of religious importance (Dionysus, god of wine and therefore hedonism, which evolved to become Rome’s Bacchus) and military consequence (it was rationed to soldiers), was celebrated for its medicinal properties, was the liquid fuel of philosophers, and was drunk both by leaders and the lower classes. It was also a yardstick against which the Greeks measured their enemies. Beer-drinking societies such as the Gauls were looked down upon, and those that consumed undiluted wine, such as Thracians, were equally scorned. In short, the Greeks viewed not just the consumption of wine, but the proper consumption of wine, as essential to keeping civilization civilized. Toward this end, the Greek oenohoos could even be considered the forerunner to the sommelier. These proto-sommeliers were responsible for blending wine and water during the era’s many symposia, in an effort to stoke spirited discourse while avoiding crass drunkenness—a fine balance indeed.
Depiction of an oenohoos
What is defined today as “Greek wine” is wine made within Greece’s current political boundaries. This sounds straightforward, but those boundaries have changed many times over the past several millennia. For example, Thrace, which at one point included over 200 tribes from Eastern Europe and Asia Minor that were sworn enemies of Athens, is now a proud part of the Greek state. The following is a simplification but attempts to outline the sequence of governing powers of Greece. The Minoan civilization, which was largely confined to Crete and Santorini, was the dominant force in Greece from roughly 3000 BCE until (most likely) the eruption of Santorini in the 17th century BCE. The Mycenaean civilization came next. They were based in the Peloponnese and ruled from the 17th century to approximately 1100 BCE. This was followed by the Homeric Period, in which many different cultures, such as the Dorians in the north and the Ionians in the west, came together (not always peacefully) to form a rough version of what Greece looks like today. During the eighth century BCE, important city-states such as Sparta and Athens arose and came to dominate Greek culture. Though Athens and Sparta were in various forms of conflict for centuries, this was a period of great cultural accomplishment in Greece and is often referred to as the Classic or Golden Age. During the fourth century BCE, power shifted to Macedonia in the north, where first Philip and then his son Alexander the Great ruled. The death of Alexander the Great in 323 BCE marks the end of the Classical period and the beginning of the Hellenic Age, which lasted until the Roman occupation in 146 BCE. Nearly 400 years later, in 330 CE, the Christian Byzantines took over; they were displaced by the Muslim Ottomans in 1453. Meanwhile, between the 12th and 17th centuries, the Venetians controlled much of the Ionian and Aegean Islands (including Crete), as well as part of the Peloponnese, before being overwhelmed by the Turks. Greece won its independence in 1832 and joined the European Union in 1981.
The history of Greek wine begins on the island of Crete, where the Minoan civilization likely received instruction from the Near East via Egypt around the year 2500 BCE. From here, viticulture spread to Santorini (called Thera at the time), and later to the rest of the Aegean and the mainland. The Greeks then circulated the vine throughout the Mediterranean, the Black Sea, and up the Danube almost as far as Austria. They also traded the finished product widely. But the wines consumed during this era were far different than those enjoyed today. Wine was almost never drunk straight; it was typically cut with water (sometimes sea water) before serving, and would have been mixed with a range of ingredients, from herbs to spices to honey. Over time, different regions became known for their associated alterations—an early example of “sense of place.” Wine was transported in large amphorae and served out of smaller clay vessels. To prevent oxidation, such containers were often sealed with pine resin. This informed the taste of the wine and is the origin of today’s Retsina.
The Greek wine industry peaked between the sixth and fourth centuries BCE and, though it declined in importance, remained dominant even after the Roman conquest of 146 BCE. A major turning point was the founding of the Christian Byzantine Empire (330 CE), which saw the center of power shift from Rome to what is now Istanbul. The Byzantine era lasted over 1,000 years, during which time Greek wine underwent significant changes. Wooden barrels were introduced during the seventh century, replacing amphorae. Sweet wines made from dried grapes grew in popularity until they became the most famous wines of Greece. Wine stopped being diluted with water, and alterations were reduced, though use of pine resin—now as a flavoring agent rather than a sealant—persisted. During the 11th century, the Greek wine industry was dealt a blow when the Venetians were granted favorable trading status, allowing them to sell imported wine at incredibly low prices. Greek producers were unable to match this, and several centuries of unchecked competition took its toll. By the time the Ottoman Turks conquered the area in 1453, Greece’s wine industry was a shadow of its former self.
During the nearly 400 years of Turkish occupation, the Greek wine industry withered, especially on the mainland (the Ionian Islands never really came under Turkish rule, and many parts of the Aegean Islands experienced only a truncated occupation). Though the new rulers were Muslim, winemaking was never forbidden, but punitive taxes discouraged production, and a significant number of vineyards were simply abandoned. To compound the damage, following the Greek War of Independence (1821 – 1832), the retreating armies burned many fields and vineyards on their way back to Turkey. Greece had won its freedom but had little left with which to toast.
The period following independence was a fragile time for the Greek economy. Wine production was slow to recover from the previous era’s ravages, but viticulture soon found a way to thrive: through the cultivation of raisins. Now able to trade freely with Europe, Greece had been selling a significant quantity of raisins to the British since gaining its independence, but France’s phylloxera crisis of the 1870s and 1880s opened a new market that was both vast and insatiable. There, producers without vines were steeping raisins in water and fermenting the broth into a kind of wine. To satisfy this sudden demand, Greek landowners expanded their vineyards substantially, often at the expense of other crops. During the 1880s, raisin cultivation leapt from 24,000 to 114,000 hectares, with much of that growth concentrated in the Peloponnese. This made raisins the number one crop in Greece, as well as the primary national export. To say that the country’s fortunes were tied to a successful raisin trade would be an understatement.
Unfortunately for the Greeks, France’s vineyards began to recover in the 1890s. In a bid to protect their own producers, the French quickly moved to reduce imports and restrict the production of “fake wines,” such as those made from raisins. As a result, Greek exports to France plummeted, and the country was faced with a grape glut that saw prices slashed by as much as 85%. This not only caused social unrest but was financially devastating to the country, and directly contributed to Greece’s declaration of bankruptcy in 1893.
But Greece’s problems were far from over. Phylloxera arrived in 1898 and quickly tore its way through Macedonia and the north. Its southward spread was more languid (Crete, for example, didn’t report any phylloxera until the 1970s), but even still, recovery was slow. This is partly because of Greece’s depressed economy (grafted vines needed to be individually purchased—a major expense), but also because of a series of armed conflicts. The first round of one-two punches came when the Balkan Wars of 1912 and 1913 bled into World War I, and the second when World War II was immediately followed by the Greek Civil War. During this long span of time, viticulture suffered and wines were notoriously rustic. As quantity was valued over quality, overproduction was a regular occurrence, which was destabilizing to the market. In response, the government established several winemaking cooperatives to absorb the excess crop. Many, such as the one on Samos (Greece’s first, founded in 1934), remain an important part of the Greek wine industry today.
"My father had the hard job, educating foreign markets on indigenous Greek varieties. By the time I started working the markets, all the American sommeliers already knew how to pronounce Assyrtiko and Moschofilero. My job became easy. I could focus on other things—our story, our terroir."– Argyris Gerovassiliou
Greece’s economy began to recover after World War II, largely through a swell in tourism. Visitors were thirsty, but Greek wine was rough, so the addition of pine resin to mask its worst offenses became commonplace. In this way, the ancient product of Retsina grew to be known as the de facto beverage of Greece. While 2016 statistics reflect Retsina at 7 to 7.5% of the national production, this unconventional and often-polarizing wine continues to inform the country’s vinous reputation.
Historically, most of Greece’s wine was produced and distributed in bulk, but bottled wine became more commonplace starting in the 1950s and 1960s. In 1969 and 1970, Greece enacted its first modern wine laws using the French AOC system as a model, and by 1971, many of today’s appellations were delimited. This coincided with a marked increase in quality, spearheaded by five companies: Boutari, Achaia Clauss, Kambas, Kourtakis, and Tsantali. Most of these wineries were founded in the late 19th century and were significant in size. Boutari played an especially important role, establishing satellite wineries in many of Greece’s major appellations and sending its winemakers and vineyard managers to study in France far before that was commonplace. A sixth winery of historical importance, Domaine Porto Carras, launched in 1970 and tapped famed Bordeaux enologist Émile Peynaud as its consultant. However slowly, Greece was catching up to the rest of the world.
The 1980s was a critical decade for Greek wine. Greece joined the EU in 1981, easing the export process and opening new markets; the country’s first enology school opened in Athens; boutique producers grew in importance; and an increasing number of winemakers sought international experience. This last element had both positive and negative ramifications for the Greek wine industry. While it certainly led to an improvement, or at least a modernization, of winemaking techniques, it also sped up the planting of so-called international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay that had begun in previous decades. Greece had already lost many indigenous vine types during the phylloxera epidemic, and this movement threatened to displace even more.
These trends continued during the 1990s, altering the timbre of many wines. Overall, Greek wines were cleaner and more fault-free than ever, but many suffered from an abundance of extraction and new oak. Thankfully, the first two decades of the 2000s have seen a pulling back from such tendencies. More producers are embracing their indigenous stock as a strength rather than a marketing liability, and international varieties, though still present, are on the decline. Some wines continue to be made in a ripe and bombastic style, but that, too, seems to be waning. Indeed, while Greece still offers an astounding range of wines, the dominant national style seems to be bright, fresh whites that pair perfectly with the coastal cuisine and structured, savory reds that are ideal companions to the culinary traditions of inland Greece and the mountainous north.
Greece’s economy continues to be a point of concern, however. The international depression that followed the economic fallout of 2008 was particularly hard on Greece, and the nation remains in crisis. This has destabilized Greece’s relationship to the rest of Europe, and a strong separatist contingency is at work inside the country. While all this is threatening to the wine industry, there is some good news. For one, wine exports are on the rise. As of 2015/2016, Greece exported 12% of its wine production, and while most of that still goes to Europe, the US and Canada represent the second and fifth biggest markets, and both are growing. Part of the success of the export markets is that today’s producers can capitalize on the pioneering efforts of the previous generations; they are showing their wine to buyers that are already (market-depending) conversant in the major Greek varieties. Hopefully, this growth will continue and help keep quality producers in business while the nation of Greece weathers this most recent in a long string of hardships.
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In 2015/2016, Greece boasted around 61,500 hectares of vines. Of these, 90% are divided among the over 300 indigenous varieties of Greece. Statistically, the most important are Savatiano (16.52%), Roditis (14.34%), Agiorgitiko (5.28%), Liatiko (3.85%), Xinomavro (3.44%), Muscat of Hamburg (3.13%), and Assyrtiko (3.12%). The dominance of Savatiano and Roditis is in part due to their use as the base for Retsina. Large landholdings are rare—the average vineyard is around a half a hectare, and the number of individual growers in Greece is estimated at around 160,000. As most of these vineyards are planted along some sort of slope, almost all work, including harvest, is conducted by hand. From these vines, 1,100 wineries produce 2.5 million hectoliters (around 28 million cases) of wine. Though this makes Greece the 16th or 17th largest producer in the world (the precise ranking fluctuates by vintage), it only accounts for 1% of the world’s wine.
Asked to imagine Greece, most people would likely conjure an image of a sandy beach caressed by sapphire waves. But while Greece certainly does boast a staggering amount of coastline, its many mountains also play a significant role regarding the character of its wines.
Greece occupies the southernmost end of the Balkan peninsula, tucked between the 34th and 42nd parallels. In the north, it is bordered by Albania, Bulgaria, Turkey, and North Macedonia. A full 70% percent of Greece is covered by mountains, making it Europe’s third most mountainous country after Switzerland and Austria. (See elevation by PDO in the Compendium.) The main range, the Pindos, which forms the spine of Greece, is the southernmost extension of the central Alps. This range extends down from the north, through the Peloponnese, and under the sea, where it occasionally surfaces as islands. Mount Olympus, which crests the clouds at an elevation of nearly 3,000 meters (9,850 feet), is Greece’s tallest peak and the historic home of its gods. It is located on the eastern edge of the country, close to the Aegean Sea. As Greece is so mountainous, there is little flat terrain. The few plains that exist are concentrated in the regions of Thessaly, Sterea Ellada, Macedonia, and Thrace.
In the interior, Greece sports very few lakes and almost no major rivers. Water abounds along the exterior, however, as Greece is surrounded by seas on three sides: the Aegean to the east, the Ionian to the west, and the Libyan to the south of Crete. Within these seas are several thousand islands, though just slightly over 100 of them are inhabited. These islands are divided into two main camps: the Ionian, of which Cephalonia is the most important, and the Aegean. The Aegean Islands are further subdivided into the Cyclades (which contains Santorini), the Dodecanese, and the North Aegean Islands. Crete also occupies the Aegean but tends to be considered on its own terms because of its size and history of independence. Evia is another large Aegean island, though it gets lumped in with Central Greece due to the similarity of its viticulture and its proximity to Athens.
The mainland of Greece is carved into several regions, which are similar to states. Macedonia and Thrace occupy the north, with Epirus and Thessaly forming the band just south of them. The area beneath them is straddled by the broad region of Central Greece, also known as Sterea Ellada, which contains the island of Evia and is appended by Attica, the small but extensively planted area surrounding Athens (Attica is Greek for “Athens”). The most southerly section of continental Greece is the Peloponnese, a large peninsula that is separated from the mainland by the narrow Corinthian Gulf.
Greece is one of the few places in the world where oceanic crust not only protrudes from the sea but forms mountains. Because of this, the wine regions feature a considerable amount of limestone and are generally low in fertility. That said, there are regional variations. Santorini is almost entirely volcanic in composition, the plains (especially in Sterea Ellada) feature a good amount of clay, alluvial formations are common along the coast, and igneous material is concentrated in the northern regions.
Greece’s climate is predominately Mediterranean, with abundant sunshine; hot, dry, extended summers; mild winters; and truncated springs. There are some exceptions to this, especially in the interior. Epirus, the central part of the Peloponnese, western Thessaly, and western Macedonia feature continental climates with more defined seasons and cooler, wetter winters. Attica is the hottest and driest part of Greece, while Epirus and Amynteo are tied for coolest. Speaking broadly, in the winter, inland areas tend to range from 32 to 41 degrees Fahrenheit while coastal areas hover between 41 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit. In the summers, the temperatures are more even across the county, with the national average around 84 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit.
In general, rains are most abundant in the north and the west of the country, while the eastern edge of the mainland and the Aegean Islands are dry. When it comes, precipitation tends to fall between October and March; only Thrace and Macedonia regularly experience summer or harvest rains. Irrigation is technically forbidden across Greece (as in the rest of the EU), but the practice is widespread. This is largely because the government grants exceptions for newly planted vines and times of extreme drought or heat. As Tsantali Viticultural Director George Salpiggidis puts it, “The government has given growers a window regarding irrigation, but we use it as a door.”
Due to the at-times extreme heat, elevation plays an important role in Greek viticulture, with many of the finest wines coming from the highest slopes. Cool winds from the north and proximity to the seas also serve to mitigate the heat. A wind known as the Meltemi regularly sweeps the Aegean. The name loosely translates to “a year of bad weather” and occurs when a high-pressure system falls over the Balkans and a low-pressure system sits over Turkey. It blows very dry air from the north, typically between mid-May and late September, which has an especially profound effect on Santorini. Similarly, Crete must contend with hot winds coming off Africa in the south. The mountain spine that runs west to east across the island acts as a natural barricade, and many of the island’s vines are planted to its north.
Greece boasts some of the oldest wine laws on earth, with an ancient delineation within Thrace considered one of the first. Several millennia later, in the late 1960s and early 1970s, Greece made its modern attempt at defining appellations. Those laws were tweaked again in the 1980s, following Greece’s induction into the EU. Originally, Greece’s top designations of origin were OPAP (Onomasia Proelefsos Anoteras Piotitos, or Appellations of Superior Quality) and OPE (Onomasia Proelefsos Elenghomeni, or Controlled Appellations of Origin, specific to Greece’s traditional sweet wines), with TO (Topikos Oinos) the rough equivalent of France’s Vin de Pays. The system was overhauled in 2009, resulting in the PDO/PGI system seen today, with both OPAP and OPE being absorbed into the PDO stratum. (They technically still exist and might be seen on labels, but this is rare.)
Greece’s PDOs (Protected Designations of Origin) number 33 and are largely protective in measure; all but two (the Slopes of Meliton and Messenikola) are dedicated entirely to indigenous varieties. To be bottled as a PDO, 100% of the fruit must be both grown and vinified within the appellation. As of 2015/2016, PDO wines (48.69% white) represent only 19.62% of Greece’s total production. PDO wines may be labeled with aging designations of reserve or grande reserve, defined below.
Next in the hierarchy are the 120 PGIs (Protected Geographic Indication), which come in three levels: regional, district, and area, where an Area PGI can be as small as a single vineyard. To be bottled as a PGI, a minimum of 85% of grapes should come from the appellation, though all grapes must be vinified within the PGI’s boundary. Statistics from 2015/2016 reflect that PGIs (61.22% white) account for 62.47% of Greece’s production. The PGI stratum also includes two traditional wines: Verdea, an oxidized white wine from the Ionian island Zakynthos, and Retsina, which can only be produced in 15 locations within Greece. Traditional PGI wines marry process and place, and, as the name implies, serve to preserve ancient methods of wine production. Retsina cannot be labeled with a vintage. PGI wines and Varietal wines (defined below) may be labeled with the aging designation of cava (also defined below). It is important to note that after the EU parallel system of PDO and PGI was incorporated into Greek wine law, the various PGI were broadened in size and grape variety allowances to ensure that all wineries throughout Greece could place an appellation more specific than their Regional PGI on the label.
Varietal and Table wines occupy the next rung down the latter. Table wines cannot display vintage, varietal composition, or region of origin on the label. The Varietal category of wine, debuted in 2011, allows the vintage and variety to be displayed on the label, but not the origin of the fruit. As far as labeling laws go, a minimum of 85% of a wine must come from the stated vintage. Similarly, if a single variety is listed on the label, 85% of the fruit must come from that variety. If more than one variety is listed, 100% of the wine must be composed of those varieties.
Greece claims to possess over 300 indigenous varieties, but the precise number is impossible to ascertain without a massive, nationwide genetic census. No matter the exact count, Greece as a country is very much committed to its native stock. As of 2015/2016, international varieties represent only 10% of Greece’s vines, and that number is shrinking. And Greece’s grapes are just as committed to their country! Very few have crossed national borders, with less than 30 planted outside of Greece. In general, two-thirds of Greece’s vineyards are planted to white grapes, and one-third to red.
It is important to note that there are no official English spellings of Greek varieties. Also, as Greek viticulture predates the field of ampelography by several thousand years, many Greek varieties go by multiple names, depending on where they are grown.
Agiorgitiko: Agiorgitiko, which translates to “St. George’s grape,” is probably Greece’s best-known red variety, due in large part to the charming nature of its wines. It tends toward high yields, which can be managed through close planting, and sets small clusters of thick-skinned berries that are prone to mildew and disease. It has long been described as late-ripening, but that reputation was due in part to the rampant presence of virus. Now that virus-free clones are available, fruit is ready a bit earlier in the year.
The grape is planted in various pockets of Greece, primarily Attica and the central Peloponnese, but it is most famous as the solely permitted variety in the PDO of Nemea. There, it produces a range of wines: rosés, light reds made via carbonic maceration, ageworthy reds, and dessert wines made from dried fruit or the addition of spirits. Across the spectrum, Agiorgitiko’s wines tend to be deeply colored, full of soft, plummy fruit, and tinged with spices and cocoa. Both the acidity and tannins are often high (though exaggerated ripeness can mitigate that), although many winemakers seek to produce wines with lower tannins through carbonic maceration or late harvesting. Some more modern producers are experimenting with the creation of “Super Nemeas” by blending Agiorgitiko with Cabernet Sauvignon.
Notable PDOs: Nemea
Liatiko: Liatiko is an indigenous variety of Crete, where it is used to create both still and sweet wines. It is known to ripen early, often before August; its name is thought to derive from the word for July. As a variety, it is low in both tannin and color but has medium acidity and pronounced, often floral, aromatics.
Historically, it is thought to have been a component of the famous, ancient Malvasia wine. Today, it is vinified on its own as a red wine in Daphnes, and blended with the more deeply hued Mandilaria in Sitia. For the dessert PDOs of Malvasia Sitia and Malvasia Candia, its dried grapes are vinified like a white wine and are merely one permitted element of a complex blend. On its own, the wine can be a bit simple, but when blended or dried for dessert wine, the enticing aromatics and body make for a compelling wine.
Notable PDOs: Daphnes, Sitia
Limnio (Lemnio): Limnio takes its name from the island of Limnos, where it likely finds its origin. It is a highly disease- and drought-resistant, late-ripening variety that produces tight bunches that mature unevenly. It tends to produce light-to-medium colored wines that can be austere, with higher tannin and alcohol, moderate acid, and an herbal nose. In the Slopes of Meliton PDO for red wine, it accounts for 70% of the blend, with the remainder composed of Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc. In the PDO Limnos, it is vinified on its own. Beyond PDOs, it is also planted in Macedonia, Thrace, and in the famous Mount Athos Vineyard.
Notable PDOs: Limnos, Slopes of Meliton
Mandilaria: One of the important red varieties of Greece’s islands, Mandilaria is known above all for the dark hue of its wines. Beyond that, its wines tend to be low in alcohol and aromatics, but high in both tannin and acid. One account of this odd combination of attributes, it is often blended. In Crete, it is typically combined with Kotsifali or Liatiko; on Paros, it is paired with Monemvasia (a white grape, though the finished wine is red); and on Santorini, where it is the most widely planted red grape, it is blended with Mavrotragano. The only PDO that features uncut Mandilaria is Rhodes, where the extended growing season allows the wine to gain more body than is typical. There, it is produced as dry red, rosé, and sparkling wine.
Notable PDOs: Archanes, Candia, Paros, Peza, Rhodes, Sitia
Mavrodaphne: Mavrodaphne is both a grape and a brand name, as it is the moniker of one of the most historic wines of Greece. It is grown primarily on the Ionian Islands and the west Peloponnese, where through extended oak aging, it is commonly made into an oxidized sweet wine comparable to a Tawny Port, though some winemakers are producing it in a more robust, Ruby Port-like style. Two PDOs are associated with this dessert wine: Mavrodaphne of Patras and Mavrodaphne of Cephalonia. In both PDOs, Mavrodaphne can be blended with Corinthiaki, a Vitis vinifera table grape commonly used to make raisins.
Mavrodaphne is a vigorous variety that requires strict yields to retain quality. It sets loose clusters of thick-skinned grapes that, when vinified dry, produce a deeply colored, tannic wine with a slightly herbal nose. As sweet wines decline in fashion, Mavrodaphne is increasingly fermented to dryness, and is often blended with Refosco (as at Domaine Mercouri) or Cabernet Sauvignon, though no PDOs accommodate this style.
Notable PDOs: Mavrodaphne of Cephalonia, Mavrodaphne of Patras
Xinomavro: The flagship grape of northern Greece, Xinomavro is a difficult variety to grow, and when poorly made, the wine can be aggressively herbal or structured. When treated properly in the vineyard and cellar, however, the result is one of the longest lasting and most profound red wines of Greece, often compared to Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo.
Both tannin and acid levels are naturally very high in Xinomavro, but the color tends to be light, and the wine is sensitive to oxidation. Even at its most concentrated, this is never a fruity wine—the dominant aromas tend to be tomato, herb, olive, and sour cherry. That said, it is versatile in the cellar and regularly fashioned into a range of wines including sparkling rosé, dry rosé, and dry red. Because of its acerbic tendencies, it is often blended. In Goumenissa, it is cut with the soft-bodied Negoska, and in Rapsani, it is combined with Krassato and Stavroto. Beyond the PDOs, Xinomavro is planted widely in both Macedonia and Thrace, where it is occasionally blended with Syrah or Merlot.
Notable PDOs: Amynteo, Goumenissa, Naoussa, Rapsani
Aidani: Aidani is planted on a handful of Aegean Islands, but it is most strongly affiliated with Santorini, also its likely point of origin. It is known to be especially drought-tolerant—useful on parched Santorini. There, it is blended with Assyrtiko and Athiri to produce a dry white wine and the dessert wine Vinsanto (not to be confused with the Tuscan dessert wine, Vin Santo). In both cases, Aidani acts as the softening agent, adding weight and texture as well as pronounced, often floral aromatics. It is rarely vinified on its own, but when it is, the result is something close to Viognier—broad and waxy with diminished acidity and an expressive nose.
Notable PDOs: Santorini
Assyrtiko: Assyrtiko is considered by many to be the finest of Greece’s indigenous varieties. Certainly, its wines are among the most famous, especially the powerful, steely creations of Santorini. There, Assyrtiko must account for 85% of the dry wine’s composition, with the balance comprised of Aidani and Athiri. The resulting wine tends to be somewhat high in alcohol but also vibrant and fresh. The aromatics are not particularly distinctive, but the rocky, chalky undertone to the wine is compelling. As noted, Assyrtiko is blended with Athiri and Aidani to create Vinsanto, in which Assyrtiko must represent a minimum of 51%.
In the vineyard, Assyrtiko is known for being drought tolerant, adaptable, and disease resistant. It sets compact clusters of large berries, and the wood of its trunks is especially hard, which helps it resist the intense winds that batter Santorini. Naturally high levels of tartaric acid keep the wines crisp despite hot conditions. In the cellar, Assyrtiko is more challenging to manage, as the wine is prone to oxidation.
Beyond Santorini, Assyrtiko features in several PDOs, but only as the minor component of a larger blend. For dry whites, it is combined with Malagousia and Athiri in Rhodes (the same blend is used for sparkling), with Athiri and Roditis in the Slopes of Meliton, and with a laundry list of other varieties in Candia (Crete). It also regularly used in dessert wines, where its acidity adds definition and lift. Beyond the PDOs, Assyrtiko is planted in all corners of Greece and various spots around the globe. The wines tend to be more aromatic and less intensely structured outside of Santorini, though they still abound in personality. In Amynteo, Assyrtiko informs several sparkling wines, and throughout Macedonia and Thrace, it is occasionally blended with Sauvignon Blanc.
Notable PDOs: Malvasia Paros, Santorini, Slopes of Meliton
Athiri: Athiri, which is also likely native to Santorini, is the most neutral of the island’s three flagship white varieties. Its primary attributes are its drought resistance and ability to retain quality at high crop levels. Because of this, it is widely planted across Greece. On its own, its wines offer medium acid and alcohol, and floral, citric, but somewhat neutral noses. It is rarely bottled as a varietal wine but contributes to the blends of a wide range of dry, sparkling, and dessert wines.
Notable PDOs: Rhodes, Santorini, Slopes of Meliton
Debina: Debina is an important variety in Epirus, where it excels in sparkling and still forms in the high-elevation PDO of Zitsa. It sets big, compact bunches and is sensitive to drought; happily for Debina, Epirus receives relatively high rainfall. The wines tend to be elegant and refreshing, if a bit simple, with semi-aromatic noses of green apple and lemon. Alcohol levels are generally low and acidity is high, hence its predilection for sparkling.
Notable PDOs: Zitsa
Malagousia: Malagousia is now fairly well known, but not too long ago, it flirted with extinction. While working at Domaine Porto Carras in the 1980s and 90s, winemaker Evangelos Gerovassiliou got ahold of cuttings from an experimental vineyard. He saw promise in the lost variety and began to cultivate it. When he started his own brand in Epanomi (a northern coastal town near Thessaloniki), he took some Malagousia with him, and it is now one of his most famous wines. Since then, the variety has spread across Greece and does especially well in the Peloponnese, Thessaly, and Macedonia. As its success is a recent phenomenon, it exists largely outside of the PDOs, only accounting for part of the blend in Rhodes’ still and sparkling PDO wines.
Malagousia is difficult to grow and sensitive to disease, which is likely a contributing factor to its abandonment. At its best, the wines are distinctive and aromatic. They tend to have medium-to-elevated acid with high alcohol, a creamy texture, and a spicy, floral nose reminiscent of Muscat. If overripe, the wine can become flabby and tropical. Malagousia takes well to oak aging, though such wines represent a minority of production.
Notable PDOs: Rhodes
Moschofilero: Moschofilero is a pink-skinned variety that is planted across the Peloponnese and the Ionian Islands but reaches its apogee in the PDO of Mantinia, where it produces both dry white and sparkling wines. As it is a naturally high-yielding vine and ripens very late in the year, achieving full maturity is an annual concern in high-elevation Mantinia. Because it is prone to mutation, several clones exist.
The wines are typically elevated in acid with light-to-medium body, but the primary attribute of Moschofilero is its bouquet, which tends to be strongly floral and citric but rarely as heady as Muscat or Malagousia. Some producers will subject Moschofilero to a brief period of skin contact, which can give the wine a pale pink or greyish hue, occupying a space somewhere between white and rosé but not defined as a legal category.
Notable PDOs: Mantinia
Muscat Blanc: Thought to originate in Greece, Muscat is an extremely ancient type of vine; indeed, many postulate that it is the oldest vinifera still cultivated today. Due to its long lineage and mutable nature, Muscat has spun off a whole family of offspring and clones. The two most important to Greece are Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains (typically referred to inside Greece as simply Muscat Blanc or White Muscat) and its offspring, Muscat of Alexandria. Of the two, Muscat Blanc is considered the finer and boasts smaller berries and more complex aromatics.
In the vineyard, Muscat Blanc has moderate-to-high yields. It is quite disease prone and can easily get overripe, so pick date is crucial. This variety’s most distinctive attribute is its perfume, which is rich in terpenes and smells of roses, orange water, and honey. In Greece, Muscat Blanc is widely planted and only appears in the PDOs for dessert wines, made through a variety of methods including late harvest, drying, and fortification.
Notable PDOs: Muscat of Cephalonia, Muscat of Patras, Muscat of Rhodes, Muscat of Rio Patras, Samos
Muscat of Alexandria: Muscat of Alexandria is considered second in quality to Muscat Blanc, but it still plays an important role in Greek wine. It is just as susceptible to disease as Muscat Blanc but sets a bigger crop with huge clusters of large berries. Acidity is low to medium, and sugars can get high. Its heady aroma veers toward grapey and floral, with a pronounced orange tone. While not as prevalent as Muscat Blanc, it is still widely grown across Greece, but only features in the PDOs of Lemnos, both dry and sweet.
Notable PDOs: Lemnos, Muscat of Lemnos
Robola: Robola is an important grape on the Ionian Islands, but it is at its best on Cephalonia, where it is vinified into a crisp, refreshing, dry wine. Though it is sensitive to both disease and drought, rainfall is sufficient in the Ionian Islands for the grape to thrive. It is also quite productive, but the extremely rocky soil of Cephalonia tames its vigor. Inside Greece, it is referred to as “Assyrtiko’s little brother,” and indeed, there are several similarities: it is naturally high in acid, with medium-to-high alcohol, a penetrating mineral tone, and a rather neutral, if lemony, nose. It also is prone to oxidation in the cellar. Contrary to popular misconception, it is not a relative of Ribolla Gialla.
Notable PDOs: Robola of Cephalonia
Roditis (Rhoditis): Roditis is the second most widely planted grape in Greece, largely due to its regular use as a base wine for Retsina. It is cultivated all over the mainland but is especially prevalent in Central Greece, the Peloponnese, Thessaly, Thrace, and Macedonia. It is pink-skinned and very vigorous, but produces a quite neutral wine. Its best expression comes from Patras, in the north of the Peloponnese. There, it is vinified into a dry to medium-sweet white wine that tends to be medium-to-high in acidity, relatively high in alcohol, broad, creamy, and redolent of melon. In the Slopes of Meliton PDO, it is blended with Assyrtiko and Athiri, and in Anchialos, it is blended with Savatiano, though the wines barely register on the market.
Notable PDOs: Anchialos, Patras, Slopes of Meliton
Savatiano: Savatiano is the mostly widely planted variety in Greece, due to its long history as the base wine of Retsina. It can be found in most corners of the country but is especially ubiquitous in Attica and Central Greece. In the vineyards, it is of moderate vigor and is fairly disease resistant. Though its reputation has been marred by Retsina, careful site selection and reliance on old vines can lead to some compelling results. One need only refer to the ageworthy dry whites of Papagiannakos in Attica for proof of Savatiano’s potential. At their best, the wines are dense and creamy, with medium acidity and a concentrated nose of peach, banana, and white flowers. When crop levels are high or the vines are planted in less than ideal sites, the resulting wines are forgettable. Savatiano can be used up to 20% in the Roditis-based Anchialos PDO.
Vidiano: Vidiano is native to Crete. While it is not quantitatively significant, it produces what are arguably the island’s finest white wines. Part of what makes this grape so fine, and so well-suited to Crete, is its ability to retain acidity in extreme heat. At its best, the wine is comparable to Marsanne, with a creamy texture (though more vibrant acidity), and a nose of apricots, lime, and flowers. In Candia, it is a minor part of a big blend that produces both dry white and sweet PDO wines.
Notable PDOs: Candia, Malvasia Candia, Malvasia Sitia
Vilana: Native to Crete, Vilana is the most widely planted white grape on the island. It is a high-yielding variety that is susceptible to disease and prone to oxidation in the winery. The wines, always dry, can be insipid, but when planted in poor soils at high elevation, better quality can be achieved. The wines tend to be medium in both acid and body, with moderate-to-high alcohol. The nose tends to feature ripe stone and tropical fruits, and oak aging is not uncommon. Only in the Peza PDO does it stand alone; otherwise, it is the component of a blend. Beyond the PDOs, it can be found in combination with Sauvignon Blanc, Thrapsathiri, and/or Vidiano.
Notable PDOs: Peza, Sitia
The contemporary Greek state is largely recognized as being founded in the 1830s, but it would take almost another century for all the elements that form what is now known as Greece to come together. The Ionian Islands joined in 1864, followed by Thessaly in 1881. Between 1913 and 1914, Epirus, Macedonia, some of the Aegean Islands, and Crete were added. In 1920, Thrace merged with the rest of the country, and in 1947, the final piece fell into place: the Dodecanese Islands, which prior to that had belonged to Italy.
For the purposes of this guide, we have divided Greece into the following sections: Northern Greece (Thrace, Macedonia, Thessaly, Epirus), Central Greece, the Peloponnese, the Ionian Islands, the Aegean Islands, and Crete.
Macedonia and Thrace occupy the most northerly band of the Greek mainland. The regions of Epirus and Thessaly sit just beneath them, occupying more or less the same latitudes. Greek wine scholars are divided as to whether these last two regions should be considered a part of Northern Greece or Central Greece. For purposes of this guide, due in large part to the nature of the wines, they are included with Northern Greece.
Thrace is a long, skinny region sandwiched between the Aegean Sea and Bulgaria, with which it shares some viticultural similarities. Cool winds come down from the north, though they are largely blocked by the Rodopi Mountains, and warm, wet air flows off the Aegean in the south. This creates significant humidity, making botrytis a regular concern. The soil near the coast is generally deep and sandy, further inland it becomes more clay dominant and fertile, and up in the area’s many mountains, it is more rocky and poor. The Area PGIs of Avdira and Ismaros are in the mountains, at around 350 meters (1,150 feet) in elevation. Thrace’s dominant climate is Mediterranean, but some of the more inland areas are continental.
Thrace was a historically important region for viticulture, especially during the Byzantine era, but much of the area’s production disappeared following the phylloxera infestation of the late 1800s and never returned. Part of the stalled recovery can be blamed on the fact that this remote corner of Greece lacks a major economic center, and therefore a strong local market. Thrace’s fortune changed in the early 1990s when industry giant Tsantali established an outpost. Not only did Tsantali’s investment revitalize local production, but the winery also successfully lobbied for the creation of a handful of PGIs (at the time, TOs). In addition to the broad, Regional PGI of Thrace, there is now the District PGI of Evros in the eastern end of the region and two Area PGIs, Avdira in the west and Ismaros in the east. Thrace does not have any PDOs.
The two most important indigenous varieties are Mavroudi, a small-berried, tannic red grape, and Limnio. Beyond that, a significant number of international varieties, allowed in the PGIs, are planted. Blends of Greek and international varieties are popular, with the combination of Sauvignon Blanc and Assyrtiko one of the more successful.
PDOs: NoneRegional PGIs: ThraceDistrict PGIs: EvrosArea PGIs: Avdira, Ismaros
Macedonia is a large, sprawling region that occupies much of Greece’s northern border. On its coast is Thessaloniki, Greece’s second largest city and an important port. Red wine is the specialty of the region, with Xinomavro in the starring role. Moschomavro is also widely planted, but it is not considered as high in quality and is not included in any PDOs. When vinified on its own, Moschomavro tends to make light-bodied, fruity, and easy-drinking reds.
Because the region is so vast, topography and climate vary significantly, resulting in a wide range of wine styles. Yet the overall quality tends to be high. Greek wine scholars posit that Macedonia’s qualitative edge is because it is home to two of Greece’s major winemaking families: the Boutaris and the Tsantalis. These juggernauts fulfilled the role that co-ops played in many other regions, claiming much of the area’s fruit. However, because they were commercial and not government operations, there was greater pressure for quality on the growers.
The western rim of Macedonia bumps up against the Pindos range. Here are the region’s highest levels of rainfall, and both hail and snow are common. The district of Florina, which contains the Amynteo (Amyndeon) PDO, is one of the coldest pockets of Greece. Amynteo occupies a plateau that sits between 520 and 720 meters (1,705 – 2,630 feet) in elevation, and its vineyards are mostly flat. The plateau is ringed by mountains and features some of Greece’s only lakes. These lakes moderate the climate, which here is technically continental. Limestone and loam are prevalent, but the dominant soil type is sand. Indeed, in some places, the sand content is so high that phylloxera cannot thrive. As a result, Amynteo boasts some of Greece’s last remaining patches of own-rooted vines.
The PDO of Amynteo allows for only Xinomavro, which can be made in a variety of styles, from red to rosé to sparkling rosé (made via tank or traditional method), and either dry or off-dry. This is one of the few PDOs for rosé in all of Greece, and the wines tend to be a bit more elegant than the big and fruity national style. The dry reds are also on the elegant side, as it is colder here than in Naoussa or Goumenissa, Macedonia’s other Xinomavro-based PDOs. These examples of Xinomavro are often lean and light, with more floral, lifted aromatics and occasionally a more pronounced herbal tone. Some of the most successful wines of the area are traditional method, dry sparkling wines. Sparkling wine must be rosé to be bottled as PDO, but Xinomavro blanc de noirs and sparkling Assyrtiko can be thrilling. Beyond Xinomavro, the vineyards of Amynteo also feature lesser amounts of Merlot, Syrah, Roditis, Malagousia, and Sauvignon Blanc, which are vinified into the area’s many PGI wines.
Moving eastward, the next PDO is Naoussa, which reigns with the Peloponnese’s Nemea as the most famous red wine appellation in Greece. Though the vineyards sit at lower elevations than in Amynteo, between 80 and 350 meters (260 – 1,150 feet), they are more pronounced in slope. Naoussa’s vineyards form a near-contiguous east-facing band that extends along the slopes of Mount Vermion, a popular winter ski destination. The soils are heavier than in Amynteo, with more clay and less sand, as well as considerable limestone. It is slightly warmer and more humid than in Amynteo, but Naoussa’s climate is still categorized as continental.
A vineyard in Naoussa
Naoussa owes its early renown to Boutari, which got its start here in 1879. As Boutari was the first to bottle wine in Greece, Naoussa was, by extension, among the first regions to be regularly listed on a label. Within the appellation, there is considerable awareness of and conversation around the presence of “crus.” While it’s hard to directly compare the 13 crus (it is rare for a winery to produce wine from more than one village), certain ones seem to stick out. Trifolos is located at a lower elevation, and the wines seem to possess more body and generosity, possibly due to the richer soils. Fytia is among the higher elevation subregions; the soil is more spare and rocky, and its wines are far more chiseled. Ramnista is the home of Kir-Yianni, one of the more modern and polished producers. Perhaps it is their influence, but the wines of Ramnista seem fuller in body, with smooth tannins and lifted aromatics. Setting aside regional expression, most producers seem to fall into one of two camps: traditional or modern. Traditional Xinomavro is lighter-bodied, tannic, and at times rustic, while modern Xinomavro offers more fruit, extraction, and a darker hue. Legally, the PDO also allows for semi-sweet Xinomavro, but these are never as successful as the dry styles. Outside of the PDO, Xinomavro is often blended with international varieties, such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, or Syrah.
The PDO of Goumenissa is located to the northeast of Naoussa, at the foot of Mount Paiko. The vineyards are planted along the rolling foothills, over a narrower range of elevation (150 – 300 meters, or 490 – 985 feet). The soils tend to be deep clay-loam and the dominant aspect is south. This is the warmest of the three Xinomavro-dominant PDOs, and sunshine is ample. These conditions lend themselves to a riper and more generous style, an expression compounded by the dictates of the PDO that require Xinomavro be co-fermented with at least 20% Negoska, a softly structured and fruit-forward variety. Goumenissa has the least established reputation of Macedonia’s PDOs. This is partly because the region languished after phylloxera and didn’t really come back to life until Boutari moved in during the 1970s.
Along the Aegean coast further to the east is an area known as Halkidiki. This is one of the most widely planted regions of Macedonia, and it is readily identified by its three finger-like peninsulas that extend into the sea. The central peninsula is home to the PDO Slopes of Meliton (Plagies Melitona), an appellation that applies solely to the vineyard of a single estate, the historic Domaine Porto Carras. With 450 hectares under vine, this one of the largest single vineyards in Greece. The soil is sandy loam with limestone, and the vineyards extend from 100 to 350 meters (330 – 1,150 feet) in elevation. Many of the slopes are steep, which necessitates terracing, and the climate is Mediterranean. The PDO allows production of a dry red made from Limnio with Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc and a dry white made from Assyrtiko, Athiri, and Roditis. Granted in 1982, this was the first of two PDOs to allow international varieties.
The next peninsula to the east is home to the famous Mount Athos Vineyard, defined as an Area PGI, the fruit from which is divided between the monk-owned Mylopotamos and Tsantali. This 70-hectare vineyard is an isolated pocket of vines, situated between heavy forest and the Aegean. Most of the vineyard sits between 220 and 250 meters (720 – 820 feet) and enjoys sandy clay loam and a decidedly Mediterranean climate. Over half of the vineyard is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, with Grenache, Assyrtiko, Athiri, Limnio, Chardonnay, Xinomavro, and Roditis, in descending order of prevalence. This vineyard is famous not only for its beauty but for the mysticism that surrounds it. Over a dozen monasteries occupy this peninsula, which has been significant to the Eastern Orthodox Church for centuries. The vineyard is owned by the monasteries and no women are allowed to walk its vines.
Heading back west along the coast toward Thessaloniki is the small but growing viticultural area of Epanomi. Its primary importance is as the home of Gerovassiliou, the eponymous winery of Evangelos Gerovassiliou, who grows Malagousia to great effect. When he decided to revitalize his father’s vineyard in 1981, there were no other producers in the area; now there are a half a dozen. Situated close to the coast, this area is quite flat and low in altitude, with soils of sandy clay studded by marine fossils. Gerovassiliou and his neighbors produce a broad range of wines that often combine Greek with international varieties. These wines are bottled as PGI Epanomi.
Another region of note in Macedonia is Drama, which forms part of the eastern border with Thrace. Drama’s vineyards are clustered into two main areas ringed by three mountains—a long, skinny, northeast-facing site that hugs the slope of Mount Menikio and a broad, flat plain to the east of Drama where the vines compete with cereal grains. As Drama is relatively far inland, the climate is continental and relatively cool. International varieties dominate, along with smaller amounts of Limnio and Agiorgitiko. In the west of Macedonia is a rarely seen but traditional sweet wine called Siatista (PGI), made of dried Xinomavro and Moschomavro.
PDOs: Amynteo, Goumenissa, Naoussa, Slopes of MelitonRegional PGIs: MacedoniaDistrict PGIs: Drama, Florina, Grevena, Halkidiki, Imathia, Kastoria, Kavala, Kozani, Pella, Pieria, Serres, ThessalonikiArea PGIs: Adriani, Agora, Epanomi, Ilion, Krania, Mount Athos, Nea Messimvria, Pangeon, Siatista, Sithonia, Slopes of Paiko, Slopes of Vertiskos, Thassos, Velventos
Thessaly (Thassalia) is a large, fertile plain surrounded by the Pindos Mountains, which include Mount Olympus in the east, the mountains marking a northeastern boundary between Thessaly and Macedonia. Due to this rare flat expanse, Thessaly is one of the few regions of Greece where the population derives most of its income from agriculture. Wine-grape viticulture tends to be relegated to the mountainous edge (table grapes and raisins are commonly cultivated on the plains). The mountains act as both wind shield and humidity trap, which aids farming. Thessaly is one of the few regions that abound in fresh water, boasting several rivers and regular runoff from snow-capped mountains. Most of the soils are composed of schist and grey clay, and the climate is Mediterranean with chilly winters.
The region was once rich in indigenous varieties, but many of them were lost because of phylloxera. Today, Muscat of Hamburg and Roditis are the most widely planted. Muscat of Hamburg is more often used as a table grape or in the production of Tsipouro (Greek grappa) than in the production of wine, while Roditis is the feature grape of the Anchialos PDO, feeds local Retsina production, and is planted in various District and Area PGIs. Of the remaining indigenous varieties, Limniona is probably the most exciting. Though the variety is not featured in any PDOs, it can be bottled under a handful of PGIs. The wines tend to be dark and soft, with lifted, floral aromatics and a bright acidity. Domaine Zafeirakis makes an especially beautiful Limniona, which is reminiscent of Pinot Noir. Other varieties of local import include Assyrtiko, Malagousia, Batiki, Chardonnay, Limnio (to which Limniona is not related), Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Merlot.
Thessaly contains two districts and three PDOs, the most important of which is Rapsani. This appellation is composed of a handful of villages on the southeast-facing slopes of Mount Olympus. There, the vineyards stretch from 150 to 800 meters (490 – 2,625 feet). Rapsani can be considered by zones of quality based on elevation, with the zones running from 50 to 150 meters, 150 to 350 meters, and 350 to 800 meters. The soils tend to be light and rocky, with loess at the bottom stratum, sandy loam in the middle, and red-tinged ferric schist at the top. As with many other places in Greece, the finest wines are thought to come from the highest elevations. The climate is Mediterranean with high humidity, and hail is a regular winter concern.
Greece’s smallest PDO, Rapsani has 60 producing hectares and 30 newly planted hectares as of 2017. The appellation was granted in 1971, when there was one winery. When Tsantali arrived in the late 1980s, the area was effectively abandoned and the vineyards needed major rehabilitation. Today, Tsantali owns no vineyards but vinifies 95% of the region’s fruit. The other 5% is divided between a handful of small local wineries.
Rapsani is the only PDO to feature Xinomavro outside of Macedonia. Here, it must be co-fermented with varying percentages of Stavroto and Krasato. While historically the grapes were present in equal parts, that is not legally enforced, and in truth, many of Tsantali’s Rapsani bottlings tend to prioritize Xinomavro. In the blend, Krasato balances Xinomavro’s strict tendencies by adding softness and extract. Stavroto is the most difficult to cultivate, as it is easily infected by rot. When ripe, it offers low sugars, medium acidity, and high tannins. Compared to Macedonia’s Xinomavro-based reds, Rapsani wines tend to be a bit riper and softer, though still structural enough to withstand cellar aging.
Thessaly’s other two PDOs are Anchialos and Messenikola. Messenikola is located on the southwest edge of the region. Granted in 1994, this is only the second of Greece’s PDOs to feature international varieties, as its dry reds are fashioned out of Mavro Messenikola, with a maximum combined total of 30% Carignan and Syrah. The appellation sits near the banks of Lake Plastira, on gravel-rich clay soils at elevations up to 750 meters (2,460 feet). The wines are middling in quality, and tend to be pale and low in extract. The wines of Anchialos are rarely seen on the market, but legally they should be composed of 80% Roditis with 20% Savatiano. For medium-sweet and medium-dry wines, oak aging is forbidden. Dry wines are defined by the fruity nature of the grapes, implying that skin contact would be avoided.
PDOs: Anchialos, Messenikola, RapsaniRegional PGIs: ThessalyDistrict PGIs: Karditsa, MagnissiaArea PGIs: Elassona, Krania, Krannonas, Meteora, Tyrnavos
Epirus is the westernmost region of mainland Greece, and the Ionian island of Corfu lingers just offshore. This is one of the most remote and mountainous areas of the country, with most of the region sitting at or above 700 meters (2,300 feet) in elevation. Prior to World War II, Epirus abounded in viticulture, with most wines consumed locally. The war saw the emptying of villages, however, and as the population declined, many vineyards were left to founder. Phylloxera’s arrival in the 1950s was the final nail in the coffin.
The region is divided into four governmental districts, but only one, Ioannina, is defined as a District PGI. Ioannina is the largest and most northerly region and shares a border with Albania. Its soils are clay-based with moderate amounts of limestone, and it receives some of the highest rainfall in Greece. Within Ioannina are two main grapegrowing regions: the PDO of Zitsa and the Area PGI of Metsovo. While neither region produces a significant quantity of wine, both are regarded for their high quality.
PDO Zitsa occupies a particularly limestone-rich elevated plateau near the center of the Ioannina PGI. The vineyards sit between 500 and 700 meters (1,640 – 2,295 feet) in elevation, and enjoy a cool continental climate that is influenced by the Pindos Mountains to the east and the Ionian Sea to the west. Debina is the main grape of the region, and the PDO allows it to be made into still, semi-sparkling, or sparkling wines—both dry and off-dry—with the sparkling wines fashioned by either the tank or traditional method. When made in a dry style via the traditional method, these are some of the finest sparkling wines in Greece: light-bodied with bright acidity and delicate aromas of green apple, lemon, and citrus flowers.
PGI Metsovo, which sits at the eastern end of Ioannina, is best known for its Cabernet Sauvignon, though its original stab at this variety in the 1960s led to very green wines that were severely panned. Today, producers have figured out how to farm for proper ripeness, using a range of methods that include lowering yields. Cabernet is joined by two other red varieties in Metsovo—Bekari and Vlahiko. Both are indigenous to the area, with Bekari known for its dark hue and Vlahiko being high in acid but low in color and tannin. Other varieties seen in Epirus include Roditis, Malagousia, Chardonnay, Riesling, Traminer, and Sauvignon Blanc.
PDOs: ZitsaRegional PGIs: EpirusDistrict PGIs: IoanninaArea PGIs: Metsovo
Central Greece, also known as Sterea Ellada, possesses no PDOs, but the eastern half of the region is rich with Area PGIs. This is a broad geographical span that contains many subregions, notably the island of Evia and Attica. Sterea Ellada is strongly affiliated with the production of Retsina, and to this end, the dominant varieties are Savatiano and Roditis. While a handful of producers have established reputations for quality, most wines from this area are mass produced. Inoffensive yet forgettable, they are destined for the anonymous carafes of the many tavernas of Athens and the islands.
The Pindos Mountains cover much of central Sterea Ellada, with plains on either side. This results in a complex topography with a wide diversity of soils and stark climatic differences. The western end of the region gets significant rainfall, the high elevation sites in the center can be cold, and the eastern edge is hot and arid.
Sterea Ellada is home to seven regional units. Two of these, Attica and the island Evia, are District PGIs. Another two, Fthiotida and Viotia, contain Area PGIs within them. Viotia is also a PGI District for Retsina. It is directly north of Attica, sandwiched between the Corinthian and Evian gulfs. While also hot and dry, mountains protect much of this growing area from the warm Aegean winds that sweep Attica. The best vineyards are located on the north-facing slopes of Mount Parnitha, which can reach as high as 500 meters (1,640 feet) in elevation. Savatiano and Roditis are the most widely planted varieties. Other wine grapes include Malagousia, Assyrtiko, Sauvignon Blanc, Agiorgitiko, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah.
Fthiotida is located to the northwest of Viotia and shares a border with Thessaly. Historically, this was an important grapegrowing region, until the twin disasters of World War II and phylloxera saw many of its vineyards converted to other pursuits. The area came back into fashion in the early 1970s when the esteemed producer Hatzimichalis set up shop. The topography of Fthiotida is extremely diverse. It is effectively a valley basin, which extends from the sea and is surrounded by mountains. This creates a range of aspects, elevations, and mesoclimates that are difficult to generalize. That said, the region tends to be nearly as hot as Viotia, but with more mountain breezes. Interestingly, Savatiano is hardly seen in Fthiotida, partly because the region was reborn in a more modern era. In its place stands a bevy of international varieties, specifically Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot.
Evia PGI is Greece’s second largest island after Crete, and it closely traces the eastern edge of Central Greece. From a varietal perspective, Evia marries Central Greece and the Aegean Islands; while Savatiano dominates, Roditis, Malagousia, Agiorgitiko, and the commonly found international varieties comingle with the Aegean mainstays of Assyrtiko, Mandilaria, and Liatiko. The red variety Vradiano is local to Evia, though it does not represent significant plantings. Like the rest of Central Greece, Evia is mountainous, with an undulating topography, cooler temperatures in the north and hot, dry conditions in the south.
Attica PGI (Attika, Attiki) is one of the most widely planted parts of Greece, though most of its vines are dedicated to the production of Retsina or mass-market wines. It is located at the southeastern tip of Central Greece and is surrounded on three sides by the Aegean Sea and its gulfs. While the Aegean does offer some moderating influence, it also introduces warm winds, which helps to make this one of the hottest and driest parts of Greece. This is compounded by the presence of mountains, which cut off Attica from any cooling northern breezes. In the east end of the region, the soils are more fertile and rich in loam, while limestone dominates in the west.
Attica possesses 11 PGI Areas and can be broadly defined as North Attica, the coolest and least fertile; Mesogia, the flat plain to the east of Athens; and Megara to the west, which is the source of mostly bulk wine. Savatiano is the most important variety, with Roditis, Malagousia, Assyrtiko, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Agiorgitiko, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah playing supporting roles. In recent years, Attica producer Papagiannakos has shown the heights of what is possible for both Attica and Savatiano. By focusing on old vines and top-shelf vinification techniques, he has produced varietal Savatiano that is both compelling and ageworthy, as well as more subtle interpretations of Retsina that challenge popular conceptions of the style.
PDOs: NoneRegional PGIs: Sterea ElladaDistrict PGIs: Attica, EviaArea PGIs: Anavyssos, Gerania, Ilion, Karystos, Koropi, Lilantio Pedio, Opountia Lokrida, Markopoulo, Martino, Opountia Pallini, Parnassos, Peanea, Ritsona, Slopes of Kitherona, Slopes of Knimida, Slopes of Parnitha, Slopes of Pentelito, Spata, Thebes, Valley of Atalanti, VilitsaTraditional Retsina Area PGIs: Retsina of Attica, Retsina of Evia, Retsina of Gialtra, Retsina of Halkida, Retsina of Karystos, Retsina of Koropi, Retsina of Markopoulos, Retsina of Megara, Retsina of Mesogia, Retsina of Pallini, Retsina of Peania, Retsina of Pikermi, Retsina of Spata, Retsina of Thebes, Retsina of Viotia
The Peloponnese is the southernmost section of the Greek mainland. This massive landmass is very nearly an island, save for the presence of a narrow land bridge that qualifies it as a peninsula. It is significant to Greek wine both in terms of quantity and quality: its Nemea and Mantinia PDOs are two of the most lauded in Greece; its western shores are home to Domaine Mercouri, one of Greece’s top boutique estates; Patras is physically the largest PDO of Greece; and the newest PDO of the Peloponnese, Monemvasia (Malvasia), honors what was once the most famous wine of the ancient world.
The Peloponnese is separated from the mainland by the narrow Gulf of Corinth. Like much of Greece, it is mountainous, with seven different peaks approaching 2,000 meters (6,560 feet) in elevation. These mountains, constituted of mainly limestone, and the southern shores of the Peloponnese mark the beginning of the Hellenic Trench, an important fault area where the African plate and the Eurasian plate meet. The northeastern portion of the Peloponnese, the peninsula of Athens, and the island of Evia are all in an active volcanic zone.
Aside from the very center of the peninsula, which is continental, the climate is categorized as hot Mediterranean, though proximity to the coast and especially elevation serve to mitigate the heat. The Peloponnese is the most extensively planted section of Greece, with most viticulture concentrated in the north, specifically in the PGI Districts of Achaia, Corinth, and Arcadia. Rainfall tends to be highest in the west, while conditions in the east are arid. This disparity—as well as that between the coastal and inland areas, and between low and high elevations—makes for a staggering variety of wines and wine styles. Indeed, the Peloponnese boasts the greatest viticultural diversity in all of Greece, with an impressive number of indigenous varieties.
The peninsula contains seven PDOs, three for dry wines and four for sweet. Nemea is by far the most important. Its reds are composed entirely of Agiorgitiko, whose charming nature has trumped its difficult name and made it one of the most revered wines of Greece. Wines made from Agiorgitiko are often referred to as the “Blood of Hercules,” as legend has it that this wine gave him the strength to defeat the Nemean lion. The production of both dry and sweet reds is permitted in the PDO, though the dry wines are far more common and far more successful than the dessert styles. Historically, dry Nemean reds were crafted in a light and fruity style, occasionally via carbonic maceration. Starting in the mid-1980s, Skouras modernized Nemea through his popular Megas Oenos, a blend of Agiorgitiko and Cabernet Sauvignon that aged in new French barrels. Later, in the 1990s, Gaia estate pioneered a richer, more extractive style of pure Agiorgitiko. There, Agiorgitiko was treated more like a noble grape, subjected to deeper extraction and more serious oak aging. The results were roundly praised, and this approach has since gained in popularity. By law, sweet wines can be produced by vinifying either late harvest or air-dried grapes, or through fortification. Rosés are common and tend to be deeply colored and fruit forward, though they cannot be labeled as a PDO. Blends of Agiorgitiko with international varieties are also popular, especially those that feature Cabernet Sauvignon. Megas Oenos, produced by Skouras, is the most famous example of this style.
A view from Nemea
Nemea is in the Corinth district, which occupies the northeast corner of the Peloponnese (though a small portion of the PDO crosses over into the Argolida district to the south). This is a sizable appellation that contains 17 villages and is divided into three distinct zones based on altitude. The lowest zone extends from 200 to 450 meters (650 – 1,475 feet) and features high temperatures and rich soils that are dominated by red clay. Historically, this is where dessert wines and the lightest and most fruit-forward dry reds were sourced. The second zone ranges from 450 to 650 meters (1,475 – 2,135 feet) in elevation. This is a notably cooler area, with poor and varied soils. The final tier sits between 650 and 850 meters (2,135 – 2,790 feet) and is the coolest of the three, with considerable limestone. Historically, the middle region was the sweet spot for serious dry reds, while the upper zone was mined for rosé. That approach is changing, however, as producers embrace the more light and sculptural style of dry red that can be coaxed from the highest slopes. As in Naoussa, Nemean producers are trying to draw consumer attention to “crus,” some of which are beginning to register. One of the most famous is Koutsi, a limestone-rich region that sits at around 650 meters (2,130 feet) and is the headquarters for Gaia.
In the center of the Peloponnese lies the district of Arcadia, which touches the Argolikos Gulf in the east and then extends and expands inland. This is the coolest, most continental part of the Peloponnese, and most of the region is planted to white grapes. The PDO of Mantinia is located at its center, just north of Tripoli, the capital city of the Peloponnese. Here, the soils are rich in clay and rocky, tinged lightly red with iron in many places. Mantinia occupies a plateau that averages 750 meters (2,460 feet) in elevation and is surrounded by high mountains. These mountains sequester the region, imbuing it with a separate, singular climate wherein winter snows are common. As a result, ripeness is not always a given, a rare phenomenon in Greece.
According to PDO dictates, Mantinia wines must be made with a minimum of 85% Moschofilero, though in practice most are varietal. If blended, the balance should be composed of Asproudes (the generic term for indigenous white grapes). In Mantinia, this typically refers to Glikerithra, a high-sugar, low-acid variety of middling reputation. The resulting wines can be still (only dry) or sparkling (tank or traditional method, ranging from dry to sweet), and tend to be light-bodied and floral, with a high acidity and heady perfume. Beyond Moschofilero and Glikerithra, Arcadia is planted to Roditis, Savatiano, Lagorthi, Assyrtiko, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Agiorgitiko, Mavroudi, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot.
The District PGI of Achaia is located to the north of Arcadia and west of Corinth, forming the northernmost coast of the Peloponnese. This is a very significant district for viticulture, as both wine grapes and raisins are widely cultivated. Achaia’s mountains are especially dramatic, with the three massive peaks along its southern end effectively cutting it off from all points south. Achaia has some of the steepest slopes in Greece, most of which face north toward the Corinthian Gulf. The climate is warm, so elevation is essential, though the gulf does provide a moderate cooling influence. Achaia’s main city, Patras, sits close to the water and is associated with all four PDOs—Patras, Muscat of Patras, Muscat of Rio Patras, and Mavrodaphne of Patras.
Of Achaia’s four PDOs, only Patras (Patra) is for dry wine, which must be made entirely of Roditis. At their best, Patras whites tend to be both high-pitched and creamy, with a lemon-scented nose. Clonal selection is critical, as some local strains of Roditis are geared more for production than for quality. Elevation is also essential, and while the region stretches from 250 to 900 meters (820 – 2,955 feet), the best wines tend to hail from high on the slopes. Mavrodaphne of Patras is the most famous of Achaia’s sweet wines, though it is not as widely admired as Cephalonia’s Mavrodaphne. Mavrodaphne of Patras was first created in 1861 by Achaia Clauss, a winery of great historic significance. Founder Gustav Clauss had spent time in the Douro before establishing his estate, and had originally crafted his wine in Port’s image. Legally, Mavrodaphne of Patras must be composed of a minimum of 51% Mavrodaphne with the balance of Corinthiaki, which is more commonly used for raisins. While the inclusion of fresh Corinthiaki grapes leads to richer, sweeter wines, the best producers are eschewing it to focus exclusively on Mavrodaphne. The wines are always fortified, but this can occur at different times. Top producers will add spirits to arrest an already in-process fermentation (the same method used to produce a French vin doux naturel), while more production-oriented wineries will simply blend spirit and unfermented must (akin to mistelle or vin de liqueur). The wine is then aged in oak for at least a year, but extended aging is common among quality producers and solera systems are often employed. To be labeled as a reserve, a wine must age a minimum of three years—two years in cask and one year in bottle. Vieille reserve requires a minimum of five years of aging, including at least two years in cask and two years in bottle. And grande reserve must age a minimum of seven years, with at least three years in cask and three years in bottle. Mavrodaphne of Patras can be bottled as either a vintage or a non-vintage blend, though a non-vintage wine must be aged for at least three years after the blend is completed. The appellation extends from sea level to 250 meters (820 feet).
Muscat of Patras and Muscat of Rio Patras are both made exclusively from Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, but differ significantly in their expression. As most of the Muscat of Patras appellation is on clay-based soils, the wines tend to be richer in texture, even heavy. The wine is also sourced from lower elevations, from sea level to 250 meters (820 feet). The Rio Patras appellation is closer to the coast and has a milder climate, which results in more high-toned, floral wines. Wines are sourced from elevations of 0 to 450 meters (0 – 1,475 feet). Both PDOs can be made via three different methods: fortification before fermentation (vin de liqueur), fortification after some fermentation (vin doux naturel), or by vinifying dried fruit. Wines produced with the vin doux naturel method and hailing from select vineyards can be labeled as grand cru. Outside of the PDOs, Achaia is planted to a mix of varieties, both native and international, with the most significant being Assyrtiko, Moschofilero, Lagorthi, Malagousia, Robola, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Agiorgitiko, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah.
The Ilia district lies to the southwest of Achaia, and most of its coastline traces the Ionian Sea. This is one of the more flat, fertile, and rainy parts of the Peloponnese, so agriculture plays a significant role in the local economy. The district is best known as the home of Domaine Mercouri, one of Greece’s finest wine estates. This historic winery got its start in 1864 when, because of ties to Italy, it famously planted Refosco (known locally as Mercouri). Domaine Mercouri ceased operations in 1960 but was resuscitated in 1985 by the third and fourth generations of the family. Today, indigenous Greek varieties such as Mavrodaphne, Agiorgitiko, Assyrtiko, and Avgoustiatis (an aromatic Ionian red grape) are expertly combined with both French (Syrah, Mourvèdre, Viognier, Grenache) and Italian (Ribolla Gialla, Refosco) varieties, the results of which are bottled as either PGI Ilia or Letrina. Mercouri’s success has inspired other wineries to set up shop, but Ilia remains a minor region from a wine perspective.
Laconia PGI, located in the southeast of the peninsula, is the final district of viticultural note in the Peloponnese. It is less mountainous than other regions, with inland plains and rolling hills near the coast. While not widely planted, Laconia is rich in indigenous varieties, many of which can only be found in old-vine field blends. Though these vineyards survived, winemaking virtually disappeared from the region following World War II, and most of the active wineries have been founded since the 1990s.
Laconia is historically significant: not only is it the home of Sparta, it was also once the source for the most famous wine of Greece, Malvasia. The uniquely confusing history of Malvasia begins in the port town of Monemvasia, which is also the name for one of Greece’s indigenous white grapes. This town gave its name to a dessert wine (likely made from a blend of grapes, which may or may not have included Monemvasia), which was traded widely starting in the 13th century. When the Venetians occupied the Peloponnese, they renamed both the port town and the wine Malvasia, which has nothing to do with the grape by that name. The name Malvasia became so synonymous with dessert wine that Crete (which was also under Venetian rule) began producing its own Malvasia, from its own local grapes. Centuries passed, production dwindled down to a trickle, and the area’s cachet faded, but in 2010, after much lobbying by the Monemvasia winery, the Greek government awarded the region with a PDO in a bid to resuscitate its legacy. They named it Monemvasia-Malvasia, thereby linking both monikers. Today, the wine must be made from a minimum of 51% Monemvasia, with the balance composed of Assyrtiko, Asproudes, and Kydonitsa (a low-acid, high-alcohol white grape). The grapes must be dried, though fortification is optional. The wine is then aged in barrel at least two years prior to release and can be bottled as either a single vintage or a blend of vintages, wherein the most recent vintage is listed on the label. Elevations range from sea level to 500 meters (1,640 feet).
PDOs: Mantinia, Mavrodaphne of Patras, Monemvasia-Malvasia, Muscat of Patras, Muscat of Rio Patras, Nemea, PatrasRegional PGIs: PeloponneseDistrict PGIs: Achaia, Argolida, Arkadia, Ilia, Korinthos, Laconia, MessiniaArea PGIs: Klimenti, Letrina, Pisatis, Pylia, Slopes of Egialia, Slopes of Petroto, Tegea, Trifilia
The Ionian Islands sit off the western coast of mainland Greece. They take their name from the Ionian Sea, which is the southern continuation of the Adriatic. These islands regularly receive some of the highest levels of rainfall in Greece, which makes fungal infections a regular concern. While the climate is classified as Mediterranean, it is milder here than in the rest of the country. These islands are also mountainous and steep, especially when compared to the Aegean Islands, and feature a wide range of soil types planted to a slew of indigenous varieties. Interestingly, the Ionian Island group is the only part of Greece to claim no Regional PGI.
These islands have a unique history as they never fell under the control of the Ottoman Empire, and so their wine production wasn’t subjected to the punitive taxes experienced by the rest of Greece. Instead, the Ionian Islands were ruled by the Venetians for over 400 years (1386 – 1797), briefly belonged to France, and then became a British protectorate until joining the Greek state in 1864. As the Venetians and the British were supportive of viticulture, the wine industry thrived, despite the islands’ relatively remote location.
There are seven main Ionian islands, but only four are viticulturally significant. The largest and most important is Cephalonia (Kefalonia), which is the only Ionian island to possess any PDOs. This island has a long history under vine, but its industry was slashed to a shadow of itself following the devastating earthquake of 1953. Thousands of residents were killed, and many survivors fled the island afterward in search of more stable ground. This resulted in a dramatic drop in wine production that has never fully recovered. But what Cephalonia currently lacks in quantity it makes up for in quality, especially with its dry white wines from the Robola of Cephalonia PDO. Elegant and refreshing, these can be some of the finest whites in Greece. The appellation itself is fragmented, composed of separate areas in the central and southern parts of the island. While all vineyards must be situated at or above 50 meters (165 feet) in elevation, the best wines tend to come from between 400 and 850 meters (1,310 — 2,790 feet) on the rocky, limestone-rich slopes of Mount Ainos. Around 85% of all PDO Robola wines are made by a single source, the Cooperative of Cephalonia Robola Producers. That said, the smaller wineries are leading the quality charge, especially Gentilini, which has experimented with oak aging and natural fermentation to great effect, and Sclavos, one of the few biodynamic estates in Greece.
The Muscat of Cephalonia PDO is located on the western end of the island. This dessert wine, composed exclusively from the Muscat Blanc variety, can be forged via three different methods: vin doux, vin doux naturel, and vin naturellement doux. Only those wines that are made via the vin doux naturel method and are sourced from select vineyards may be labeled as grand cru. The designation also requires that the grapes meet a higher ripeness requirement and be cropped at less than half of the yields required for other wines. Elevations range from 0 to 200 meters (0 – 655 feet). The Mavrodaphne of Cephalonia PDO is scattered across the island and tends to feature heavier clay-based soils. It has a qualitative advantage over Mavrodaphne of Patras in that Cephalonia features a particularly well-regarded clone of Mavrodaphne: Tsigelo. To be labeled with the PDO, the wine must be fortified, though no specific method is required. Beyond the PDOs, some excellent dry Mavrodaphne is being produced, and the indigenous white grapes Tsaousi and Moschatella are widely planted. Tsaousi doubles as a table grape, and Moschatella makes for heady, aromatic wines reminiscent of Muscat (to which it is not related). Elevations range from 0 to 450 meters (0 – 1,475 feet).
Zakynthos is the most southerly Ionian island and has the warmest climate. It is located just off the coast of the Peloponnese and is visible from Domaine Mercouri. Zakynthos is less dramatic from a topographic perspective, with lower elevations, flatter slopes, and more fertile soils. Because this island was relatively easy to farm, the Venetians planted much of it to raisins. Zakynthos still boasts raisin vineyards today, but it is also home to over 30 indigenous varieties, a remarkable number for such a small place. Its best-known wine is Verdea, Greece’s only other traditional PGI wine beside Retsina. Verdea has been produced since the 19th century, and PGI regulations dictate it be composed of a minimum 50% percent Skiadopoulo, a white grape with a high sugar content and moderate acidity. Many other varieties can be included, but Pavlos, Robola, and Goustolidi are most common. Traditionally, this wine is high in alcohol and dry, with an oxidative tone from extended oak aging. Recently, some producers are freshening up the style in a bid to increase its popularity. Nonetheless, this wine remains a rarity, even inside Greece.
Lefkada is located to the north of Cephalonia; of all the Ionian Islands, this one sits closest to the mainland, to which it is connected by a bridge. Lefkada is a small, steep island, dominated by the presence of Mount Elati. It is not particularly important viticulturally, and is mostly planted to the high-sugar, phenolic red grape Vertzami (also known Lefkaditiko).
Corfu is the most northerly Ionian island and is far better known as a vacation destination than a center of wine production. It is mostly flat with one major peak, Pandokratoras. Red varieties, though not produced under the PGI Corfu, tend to be planted in the more steeply sloped northern terrain, while white grapes like the green-hued Kakotrigis and Petrokoritho are generally planted in the rocky, lower elevation sites in the south.
PDOs: Mavrodaphne of Cephalonia, Muscat of Cephalonia, Robola of CephaloniaRegional PGIs: NoneDistrict PGIs: Corfu, Lefkada, ZakynthosArea PGIs: Halikouna, Mantzavinata, Metaxata, Slopes of Ainos, Verdea
The Aegean is the primary sea of Greece, and within its waves are thousands of islands, a handful of them viticulturally significant. Crete, the giant landmass that marks the southern limit of the Aegean, is a juggernaut of production, accounting for 11.9% of Greek vines, while all the other islands together represent 10.67%. This places over a fifth of Greek vineyards in the Aegean. Happily for wine lovers, but perhaps frustratingly for students, the resulting wine is fragmented into hundreds of different faces, as each island has its own varieties, traditions, and personality.
Within the Aegean are four island groups: the Cyclades, the Dodecanese, the North Aegean, and the Sporades. As the Sporades don’t really contribute to the wine industry, they are excluded from this guide.
The Cyclades, named for the circular shape of its formation, is a cluster of islands located in the south Aegean, just north of Crete. It encompasses 33 major islands, including the vacation destination of Mykonos, plus several smaller islands, many of them uninhabited. From a viticultural perspective, the most important are Santorini and Paros, with Santorini being especially revered for the quality of its dry white and dessert wines.
While these islands boast a long history under vine, the wines, with a few exceptions, were traditionally sold as generics or blended with other wines. During France’s phylloxera crisis, the islands joined the rest of Greece in supplying grapes and wine to desperate vignerons, but France’s sudden recovery in the 1890s resulted in an almost total collapse of Aegean winemaking. Vineyards remained in the ground, however, and cooperatives became the primary home for their fruit. For a long time, the populations of these islands subsisted at the poverty level, until the rise of tourism in the 1970s brought new avenues for income. Now, tourism is the dominant industry, especially in the Cyclades, which are closer to mainland Greece than most of the islands. While the swell of tourism was a boon in that it created new markets for wine, the subsequent rush of development has displaced many vineyards and continues to threaten even more.
In general, the Cyclades experience some of the hottest and driest conditions in Greece. This is compounded by relentless winds, which can interfere with fruit set in the spring and enhance water stress throughout the year. The especially strong Meltemi, which kicks up most significantly in late summer, impedes tourism (its gusts are sufficient to ground planes) and stalls photosynthesis (the high winds cause the leaf stomata to close). This can be challenging to manage but is considered essential to extending the growing season and preventing Cyclades wines from becoming overripe. As the soils are extremely poor and lacking in clay, phylloxera has never infected these islands. This makes the Cyclades home to some of the oldest vines and root systems in Greece. Regional compositions vary, but across the islands, the dominant white grapes are Assyrtiko and Monemvasia, and the most widely planted red is Mandilaria.
Today, Santorini is one of the jewels of Greece, with stark, resplendent architecture and wines that are among the most fetishized of Greece’s exports. This success is a modern phenomenon, however. As recently as a few decades ago, the people of Santorini were struggling to get by, and most wines were produced by a large cooperative. While so sudden a turnabout may seem dramatic, such is the history of Santorini: full of highs, lows, and remarkable twists of fortune.
The rocky cliffs and vines of Santorini
Santorini first came under vine during the Bronze Age, when it was a Minoan colony called Thera. Back then, the island looked much different, as it didn’t assume its current shape until it erupted dramatically during the 17th century BCE. This was a cataclysmic explosion that caused massive tsunamis and is credited with wiping out the Minoan civilization. Much of the island was either scattered into the atmosphere or sank into the sea (rumored to be the origin of the Atlantis myth). What is now the crescent-shaped archipelago of Santorini is just the unsubmerged sections of the ancient volcano’s caldera. This volcano is still active and erupted as recently as 1950.
The Phoenicians followed the Minoans in custody of Thera, which then became a Spartan colony in the ninth century BCE. In 146 BCE, Santorini and the rest of Greece came under Roman rule before joining the Byzantine Empire in 330 CE. It was the Byzantines who changed the island’s name to Santorini, in honor of Saint Irene. Ottomans then occupied the island from 1576 to 1831, a dim time for viticulture, before Santorini and Greece were liberated in 1832.
Santorini possesses incredibly poor volcanic soils that offer almost no organic matter. This soil is so infertile that even olive trees can’t thrive. Aside from capers and vines, cherry tomatoes were an important Santorini export, but that industry was effectively wiped out after a massive earthquake in the 1950s destroyed the factories. The decades that followed were grim for the citizens of Santorini, until tourism accelerated in the 1970s.
Since 1947, the sole commercial wine producer on Santorini was the cooperative Santo, which is still in operation today. Smaller outfits called kanavas had long peppered the island, but their production was mainly confined to home use. One such kanava, owned by the Argyros family, expanded in scale in the 1970s and is now a top producer. Next came Boutari, the first major outside winery to set up shop on Santorini, with an inaugural vintage in 1989. Boutari worked to revitalize the local industry and made huge strides in quality by picking earlier than was traditional and introducing technologies such as stainless steel and temperature control. The following decade saw a handful of other key wineries open. Hatzidakis came to Santorini as Boutari’s winemaker before purchasing his own vineyard in 1996, and Sigalas and Gaia, another outsider, also got their start in the 1990s. These estates are some of the most renowned in Greece, and in addition to raising the bar in Santorini, the quality of their wines echoed across the country, inspiring a new generation of Greek vintners.
These producers were certainly skilled, but they were also aided by the unique nature of Santorini’s vineyards. Much of Santorini’s soil is tinted black with volcanic basalt that sits atop metamorphosed limestone and schist. Because of the utter lack of clay, phylloxera never took hold, and many of Santorini’s vines have root systems that are several hundred years in age. The climate is hot and exceedingly dry, and the island contains neither rivers nor lakes to supply fresh water. Indeed, for much of the growing season, morning fog and dew are the only sources of moisture. To capture this, vines are trained in a distinctive low-lying basket shape called kouloura or stefani. This method of training also serves to protect both vines and fruit from the angry winds that regularly whip the island. Vineyards are scattered throughout Santorini but tend to be concentrated in the center and along the west coast. This is not a particularly high-elevation island; vineyards are located between 0 and 300 meters (0 – 985 feet). The other tiny islands that form the Santorini complex are also eligible for the appellation but are sparsely planted. In 2018, it was announced that Biblia Chora, the famous Macedonian producer, will establish an estate on Thirassia, which enjoys a similar soil and climatic profile to Santorini proper.
Historically, Santorini was home to a host of indigenous varieties, and while several dozen still exist, a handful dominate. Assyrtiko is by far the most widely planted, accounting for roughly 80% of all vines. The other important white grapes are Athiri and Aidani. These are typically used as Assyrtiko’s blending partners, though Aidani is occasionally vinified on its own, yielding creamy, waxy, floral wines of moderate acidity. Other indigenous white grapes include Thrapsathiri and Platani, but these are planted in insignificant quantities. Only 15% of Santorini’s vineyards are dedicated to red grapes, the two most important of which are Mandilaria and Mavrotragano. Varietal Mavrotragano wines are occasionally seen and can be successful, yielding dark and dusty wines with a black fruited, slightly herbal nose. Aidani Mavro and Mavrathiro are also present, but in scant amounts. Across all varieties, yields are extremely low on Santorini, especially for old-vine Assyrtiko.
Santorini’s single PDO is inclusive of a range of wine styles. The most important of these is the dry white wine produced from a minimum of 85% Assyrtiko blended with Aidani and Athiri. These are distinctive, powerful, though not especially aromatic, wines of depth. They tend to have higher alcohol levels, intense acidity, and elevated phenolics. While the dominant mode of production includes fermentation in stainless steel, the use of oak or acacia barrels is not uncommon. Vinsanto, the famous dessert wine of the island, is also included in the PDO. This wine must be made from a minimum of 51% Assyrtiko, with Aidani and Athiri composing the balance. Legally, Vinsanto must be produced using dried grapes, with or without fortification, though fortification is rarely if ever practiced. Following drying, the grapes are pressed, and the resulting wine is aged in barrel for a minimum of two years, though top producers often keep the wine in barrel for far longer.
Nykteri is also included in the PDO. This unusual dry wine is a historical product of Santorini, made with very ripe grapes that are harvested before dawn and pressed within a day. The wine is then aged for a minimum of three months in barrel, though longer is common, and sometimes, flor develops. The result is a full-bodied, distinctive wine high in both alcohol and acidity. Outside of the PDO are dry reds made from Mavrotragano (sometimes with Mandilaria) and a red dessert wine called Mezza, which is produced from air-dried Mandilaria grapes.
The island of Paros sits in the center of the Cyclades group, and as a result is slightly more sheltered than its sister islands. While arguably more famous for its marble than its wines, Paros does possess two PDOs, Paros and Malvasia of Paros.
Paros is a flat island interrupted by a central peak, Mount Profitis, which reaches over 750 meters (2,460 feet) in elevation. Climatically, Paros is extremely hot and dry but less windy and more humid than Santorini. The soils are a fertile combination of sand, loam, and limestone. Vineyards are found across the island, from 0 to 750 meters (0 – 2,460 feet), but the best sites occupy the mountain slopes at elevations of 250 to 400 meters (820 – 1,310 feet). The main varieties are Mandilaria, Monemvasia, Assyrtiko, and Savatiano, though Roditis and Mavro Aidani are also present.
The PDO of Paros allows the production of dry white wine from Monemvasia and dry red wine from a minimum of 35% Mandilaria co-fermented with Monemvasia. The latter is the only instance of a dry red PDO wine in Greece that allows the inclusion of a white grape. Malvasia of Paros is a sweet wine made from sun-dried grapes, Monemvasia with a maximum of 15% Assyrtiko. Fortification is optional, but the wines must be aged for a minimum of two years to be labeled with a vintage. If vintages are blended, the wines may be labeled with an average age in four-year increments if aged for at least four years (e.g., 4, 8, 12, 16 years old).
PDOs: Malvasia Paros, Paros, SantoriniRegional PGIs: Aegean SeaDistrict PGIs: CycladesArea PGIs: Syros, Thapsana
The remote Dodecanese Islands are located to the east of the Cyclades, close to the Turkish coast. This group is composed of 12 islands, but Rhodes is of serious viticultural note. Kos, which is unusually fertile and verdant for an Aegean island, has a small but insignificant wine industry.
Rhodes is the largest of the Dodecanese Islands. Its landscape is dominated by Mount Atavyros, which exerts considerable influence on the island’s viticulture. Vineyards are planted between sea level and 600 meters (1,970 feet). Across the island, the soils are a combination of sand, clay, and limestone, but are rockier and more infertile at higher elevations. Rhodes is rather hot and dry, with very mild winters. Though rainfall is scarce, Rhodes possesses a surprising amount of fresh water reserves, which can be used for irrigation.
The aggressive nature of its climate makes Rhodes’ tradition of sparkling wine seem a bit surprising, but for decades this was a regular source of “Greek Champagne.” The main producer, CAIR, is an unofficial cooperative that was founded in 1928 and established the island’s reputation for sparkling. Though a handful of boutique producers grew around it, the economic crisis of 2008 caused many to close, and today CAIR once again dominates production.
The main grapes of Rhodes are Athiri, which excels on the upper slopes, and Mandilaria (also known as Amorgiano), typically found at lower elevations. Muscat Blanc, known locally as Moschato Aspro, is also planted, as are Assyrtiko, Malagousia, the indigenous Mavrothiriko, and a significant quantity of French grapes (including Ugni Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Grenache). The Rhodes PDO covers a range of wines—white, red, and rosé—which can all be made in either dry, semi-dry, or semi-sweet styles. The PDO also allows for sparkling wine, both white and rosé, which can range from dry to sweet. White still or sparkling wines must be composed of a minimum of 70% Athiri (with a balance of Assyrtiko and Malagousia), while reds or rosés must be composed of a minimum of 70% Mandilaria (with a balance of Mavrothiriko). Muscat of Rhodes (rarely seen in the market) must be made entirely of Muscat Blanc and can be produced via the vin doux, vin doux naturel, or vin naturellement doux method. Those made in the vin doux naturel style and sourced from select vineyards may be labeled as grand cru.
PDOs: Muscat of Rhodes, RhodesRegional PGIs: Aegean SeaDistrict PGIs: DodecaneseArea PGIs: Kos
The North Aegean Islands are located to the north of the Dodecanese and far enough east that, like many Greek islands, most sit closer to Turkey than to mainland Greece. While summers are hot, dry, and windy, the winters are colder and more rain soaked here than in the rest of the Aegean, and the heat spikes are less extreme. There are five main islands in the North Aegean, and two of them possess PDOs for sweet Muscat: Lemnos and Samos. Ikaria, an Area PGI, once had a significant wine culture. In antiquity, it was the source of the famous Pramnian red, a traditionally high-alcohol wine made from the Fokiano grape. Today, however, it is a minor player at best. It is home to only four producers, and its dominant grape is Mandilaria, though the white grape Begleri is the focus of the more modern wine movement. Similarly, the once-robust wine industry of the district of Chios has declined to the point of obscurity, though some are working to revive its ancient wine traditions. With a PGI created in 2010, Lesvos has limited viticulture and is better known as a source of Ouzo, but its industry is growing. Eresos-Antissa, Kalloni, and Plomari are all expected to earn Area PGI soon.
Sweet Muscat from Samos is among the most famous wines of Greece, and the story of its rise is fascinating. Historically, Samos was known for dry red wines, but its viticultural traditions were interrupted in the latter half of the 15th century when most of the islanders fled after being constantly overrun by pirates. Samos remained virtually uninhabited for nearly a century, until the Ottoman rulers offered incentives for citizens to return. These new settlers planted new vineyards, and Muscat Blanc was a popular choice. The arrival of phylloxera at the end of the 20th century caused further adjustments to Samos’ varietal makeup, and Muscat Blanc became even more prevalent. In 1934, a law was passed stating that only wines made from Muscat could claim a Samos origin, which cemented the variety’s hegemony and served as a rough approximation of Greece’s first appellation. That same year, the United Winemaking Agricultural Cooperative of Samos (UWC Samos) was founded. Today, 95% of the island’s vineyards are dedicated to Muscat Blanc, referred to locally as Moschato Aspro. The remaining 5% of vineyard land is mainly dedicated to two red grapes: Ritino and Fokiano. Historically Samos’ wines were vinified exclusively by the co-op, but recent legal changes have allowed for the establishment of a handful of small producers.
Samos is a very steep island with granitic soils, where the topography is dominated by Mount Ampelos. Vineyards are planted between 0 and 900 meters (0 – 2,955 feet), and most, but not all, of the island is eligible for the PDO. Though there is a range of altitudes and aspects, the best vineyards tend to be planted at high elevations on terraced, north-facing slopes. Some dry PGI wines are produced, but dessert PDO Muscat is the primary focus. The Slopes of Ambelos PGI is a specific zone of the island that pertains to the production of dry whites from Muscat. It is worth noting that Samos is the only Muscat-based PDO that does not include the grape in the name of the appellation. Samos Muscat can be naturally sweet or fortified before or during fermentation to retain sugar, and can be made from fresh or sun-dried grapes. Those wines made using the vin doux naturel approach and hailing from select vineyards are eligible for grand cru designation. Both oak-aged and unoaked Muscat are produced. This wine has an especially strong international presence, with significant exports to France.
The United Winemaking Agricultural Cooperative of Samos is the island’s dominant producer, not only historically but also in terms of volume, and it is widely acknowledged for the quality of its wines. UWC Samos produces several different wines that range from dry to sweet but is best known for its dessert line. The entry-level Samos Vin Doux is the co-op’s most important wine from a production standpoint, but there are also three premium dessert wines. Nectar is made from dried grapes fermented without fortification (vin naturellement doux) and is aged in oak for six years (formerly three) before release. The Anthemia also spends a good amount of time in oak (generally five years), but is produced via the vin doux method, wherein the unfermented must is fortified. This makes for a primary fruit flavor, given complexity by the many years in oak. The grand cru is sourced from a select group of vineyards above 400 meters (1,310 feet) in elevation, and yields are kept quite low. Though sweet, this is generally the “driest” of the dessert wines, as it completes much of its fermentation prior to a light fortification (vin doux naturel). This wine sees no oak so tends to be lighter and brighter in hue than the amber Nectar and Anthemia.
Lemnos (sometimes spelled Limnos) is the origin of the grape Limnio, though this variety no longer plays a starring role on this island. Here, Muscat of Alexandria takes center stage, and both dry and sweet wines are made from its fruit. The PDO of Lemnos allows for dry red from Limnio to be made (here called Kalambaki) along with dry, semi-dry, and semi-sweet Muscat. Fully sweet Muscats belong to the Muscat of Lemnos PDO, wherein the grapes may be dried and/or fortified. These wines are generally considered second in quality (more fruit forward and simple) to Muscat of Samos. This is likely due to their reliance on Muscat of Alexandria, rather than the smaller-berried Muscat Blanc variety. Wine from select estate vineyards that adhere to lower yield restrictions are eligible for grand cru designation.
Lemnos is one of the hottest and driest islands in the North Aegean cluster. It is also especially flat. The soils are volcanic in origin and rich with limestone, and most of the vineyards are found on the cooler, western end of the island, between 0 and 300 meters (0 – 985 feet) in elevation.
PDOs: Lemnos, Muscat of Lemnos, SamosRegional PGIs: Aegean SeaDistrict PGIs: ChiosArea PGIs: Ikaria, Lesvos, Slopes of Ambelos
The story of Greek wine begins on Crete, its largest and southernmost island. There, the technologically advanced Minoan civilization (the first to master indoor plumbing!) produced the inaugural Greek wines before spreading the knowledge of its manufacture to Santorini and the mainland. The history of Cretan wine since that time has been dramatic, but the period of Venetian rule (1204 – 1669) was particularly auspicious. The Venetians were encouraging of viticulture in general and established the island’s tradition of Malvasia dessert wine production. These were modeled after the popular wines from the Peloponnesian port of Monemvasia, a legacy that was recently honored with the creation of two PDOs: Malvasia Candia and Malvasia of Sitia. Crete’s good fortunes ended in 1669, however, when it came under the jurisdiction of the Ottoman Empire. This era was a damaging one for the wine industry, and though Crete gained its independence in 1898 (and joined the Greek state in 1913), its wine industry would take decades to recover.
Up to and through World War II, Crete’s wine production was predominately bulk wine of middling quality, made by six giant cooperatives. That began to change in the 1950s and 60s, when a handful of large companies moved in and started producing wines of a higher caliber. Still, Cretan wines remained in a somewhat sorry state until the 1990s, when producers operating on a more boutique scale gained traction. Many of these artisan operations were run by growers, who began to realize that the best way to get good wine on the market was to make it themselves. Quality remains uneven, but many exciting wines are being produced on Crete. This new wave of producers is emphasizing indigenous varieties, many of which became endangered after phylloxera swept the island in the 1970s. While blending with international varieties is common, the most promising wines are varietal bottlings of obscure Cretan grapes such as Liatiko, Dafni, Plyto, Vilana, and especially Vidiano.
Crete is a long, thin island that measures 159 miles long and 37 miles across at its widest and separates the Aegean Sea from the Libyan Sea. It is extremely mountainous, with the only plains located along the coasts. A large range runs east to west along the length of Crete, dividing the island in two. Its three highest peaks—Psiloritis, Lefka Ori, and Dikti—help block the hot African winds that blow from the south, which gives the two halves of the island very different climates. Viticulture is confined to the more temperate north, with the best sites situated along the higher slopes. But even with the advantages of elevation and exposure, the overall Cretan climate is extremely hot and dry. Variations also run laterally, with cooler temperatures and higher rainfall in the west and more arid conditions in the east. From a soil perspective, the terrain of Crete is far more fertile than in the nearby Cyclades, and tends to feature limestone mixed with clay.
The island is divided into four districts; from west to east, they are Hania, Rethymno, Iraklio, and Lasithi. Hania and Iraklio, the most important for viticulture, derive their names from the two largest cities in Crete. Iraklio is the leader both in terms of commerce and viticulture and contains five of Crete’s seven PDOs. It features a complex mountainous topography, as it occupies the area between Mount Psiloritis and Mount Dikti. Hania, the westernmost district, has the highest levels of rainfall and the coolest temperatures; it is also one of the flatter areas, with few vineyards planted above 500 meters (1,640 feet). To its east, the district of Rethymno contains Mount Psiloritis, but is not widely planted. Lasithi in the far east occupies the narrowest section of Crete, and is also the hottest and driest. Though this is the least developed of Crete’s districts, it contains two PDOs: Sitia and Malvasia Sitia.
Of all the Iraklion PDOs, Peza is often the most highly regarded. This appellation only allows the production of dry wines: whites from Vilana and reds from a combination of Kotsifali and Mandilaria. At their best, Peza whites are light and crisp, while the reds are darkly colored, fragrant, and spicy. The appellation covers 15 villages and stretches from 300 to 800 meters (985 – 2,625 feet) in elevation. The soils carpeting that span are diverse but tend to be sandier and less fertile at higher elevations. The Archanes PDO only allows for dry red wines with the same varietal composition as Peza. This appellation includes seven villages and occupies a north-facing basin. Its vineyards are planted between 300 and 450 meters (985 – 1,475 feet). The wines are similar to red wine from Peza but tend to be a touch darker and slightly riper in style.
In the western end of the Iraklion district, on the northeast slopes of Mount Psiloritis, the Daphnes PDO is committed entirely to Liatiko (both dry and sweet). Most of its vines are planted between 150 and 600 meters (490 – 1,970 feet) in deeper, more clay-rich soils than are found in Iraklion’s other PDO zones. Daphnes has the least established reputation of the PDOs. This is partly because the area was long dominated by co-ops, and partly because the Liatiko grape can be difficult. It is an early-ripening variety that often lacks in color, tannin, and fruit. These deficits are typically compensated for via air-drying, but careful producers such as Douloufakis have been able to coax some interesting red-fruited results for the dry wines. Legally, the dessert styles can be produced through air drying and/or fortification. Those wines crafted with the vin doux naturel process and from select sites may be labeled as grand cru.
In 2011, new PDOs Candia and Malvasia Candia were added in Iraklion. Candia, which was the Venetian name for the city of Iraklion, acts as a kind of catch-all for the region, allowing the production of dry whites and reds from a wide range of varieties. The reds must be composed of the typical Cretan combination of Kotsifali (minimum 70%) and Mandilaria, but the white blend is a bit more complex. Legally, it is a blend of a minimum 85% Vilana with Assyrtiko, Athiri, Vidiano, Thrapsathiri, and Liatiko. The Malvasia Candia PDO allows for sweet white wines that can be produced either through the vin doux naturel or vin naturellement doux methods. The list of permitted varieties is subtly different than for the dry Candia whites. Assyrtiko, Athiri, Vidiano, Thrapsathiri, and Liatiko (vinified as a white wine) may be blended with a combined maximum of 15% Malvasia di Candia Aromatica and Muscat Blanc. Though Malvasia Candia is rarely produced, these appellations are useful in that they enable producers to draw upon a greater range of varieties for their PDO wines. Needless to say, the results are diverse, and dry Candia PDO wines are some of the more exciting to come out of Crete. Both PDOs allow grapes to be sourced from vineyards up to a maximum of 700 meters (2,300 feet).
The Lasithi district on the eastern end of the island offers the greatest concentration of limestone in Crete, which helps the wines stay fresh in such hot and dry conditions. Most vineyards lie between 250 and 650 meters (820 – 2,130 feet) in elevation and aspects vary. The PDO of Sitia occupies a broad swath of land and is inclusive of a range of styles, from dry whites and reds to sweet reds made using a variety of methods. White wines must be composed of at least 70% Vilana with Thrapsathiri, while the reds must feature 80% Liatiko with Mandilaria. Dessert wines made in an unfortified style from dried grapes must be composed entirely of Liatiko to claim the PDO. As the addition of Mandilaria brings considerable darkness and fruit to the wine, Sitia’s examples of dry Liatiko are often the most approachable in Crete. The Malvasia Sitia PDO exists only for sweet white wines, made via either the vin doux naturel or vin naturellement doux method, and the legal varietal composition is identical to that of Malvasia Candia. These are the only two Malvasia wines in Greece to actually feature the Malvasia grape, though it plays only a minor role. For both PDOs, vineyards extend from 300 to 750 meters (985 – 2,460 feet).
Beyond the PDOs, producers across Crete are experimenting with lesser-known indigenous varieties such as Plyto, which makes high-pitched, lemon-scented wines; Dafni, which produces an intensely herbal white wine; Thrapsathiri, whose wine is broad and peachy; and Romeiko, a light-colored red grape that produces an oxidative wine called Marouvas. Vidiano is arguably the best of Crete’s native whites, and its plantings are on the rise. When well made, it yields complex dry whites that are both rich and bright, and often well-suited to oak aging. International varieties are also prevalent, the most important of which is Syrah, which is regularly blended with a variety of indigenous Cretan stock. Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot can also be found. Though the district of Hania contains no PDOs, some excellent and forward-looking wines are being produced there. Aside from the usual indigenous suspects, the Manousakis Winery is making great strides with both white and red Rhône varieties, which so far seem to enjoy their new life on Crete.
PDOs: Archanes, Candia, Daphnes, Malvasia Candia, Malvasia Sitia, Peza, Sitia Regional PGIs: Crete District PGIs: Chania, Heraklion, Lasithi, Rethymno Area PGIs: Kissamos
Lazarakis, Konstantinos. A Guide to the Wines of Greece. Athens: National Interprofessional Organization of Vine and Wine of Greece, 2016. http://customers.peakad.gr/wines_of_greece/guide/english/mobile/index.html.
Lazarakis, Konstantinos. The Wines of Greece. London: Octopus Publishing Group, 2005.
Meloni, Giulia, and Johan Swinnen. “Bugs, Tariffs and Colonies: The Political Economy of the Wine Trade 1860 – 1970.” American Association of Wine Economists (October 2016). http://www.wine-economics.org/aawe/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/AAWE_WP206.pdf.
Phillips, Rod. 9,000 Years of Wine: A World History. Vancouver: Whitecap Books, 2017.
Robinson, Jancis, Julia Harding, and José Vouillamoz. Wine Grapes. New York: HarperCollins, 2012.
Wines of Greece. Accessed Winter/Spring 2018. http://www.newwinesofgreece.com.
Special thanks to Yiannis Karakasis MW, Stavroula Liapa, and Sofia Perpera.
Compiled by GuildSomm Senior Staff Writer Kelli White (June 2018)
Thank you so much Michael!
Hey Juan - There are a lot of alternative spellings for Greek place names because of the Greek alphabet. Halkida is also called Chalkida, Chalcis, or Chalkis.
is Retsina of Halkida and Retsina of Chalkis the same? on https://winesofgreece.org/articles/pgi-wines-of-greece/ they don't list Halkida as one of the 15 PGIs
Hey Devon! I wouldn't worry about a specific elevation requirement here. The language used in the PDO documents across all grand cru designations is "selected vineyards". This leaves it up to producers to designate their own "Grand Crus."
It says that "grand cru" wines usually come from higher elevation vineyards... I understand this isn't a requirement but can you provide some context as to what is considered "high elevation" in this case? I see UWC Samos vineyards are above 400m, is this a good approximation for others as well?
Thank you so much for clarifying.
Hey Rasmus! Great question. This is due to the island having the three PGI's of Mantzavinata, Metaxata, and Slopes of Ainos. So there is no need for an island-wide PGI due to the island being sufficiently covered by its current designations.
Hi Jonathan. Do you know why Cephalonia don’t have a PGI for the entire island like the other 3? If a producers makes wine outside the PDO areas what would that be labelled as?
Thank you, Jonathan.
Hey Michael! Yes, these are PGI wines. Per the guide "Sparkling wine must be rosé to be bottled as PDO, but Xinomavro blanc de noirs and sparkling Assyrtiko can be thrilling. Beyond Xinomavro, the vineyards of Amynteo also feature lesser amounts of Merlot, Syrah, Roditis, Malagousia, and Sauvignon Blanc, which are vinified into the area’s many PGI wines."