Napa Valley

An Era of Development

Two other major happenings around this time had profound effects on Napa’s wine industry. In 1978 and 1979, respectively, the magazines The Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator were launched. Though in some ways they embraced opposing philosophies, both employed the 100-point scale, which simplified the mysteries of fine wine for a relatively unsophisticated wine drinking public. A formal appellation system also emerged, with the Napa Valley AVA delineated in 1981 and subdivisions following shortly thereafter. The 1970s and early 1980s also saw the first real wave of European (specifically, French) investment, which provided further testimony to the quality potential of Napa Valley. Among others, Clos Du Val formed in 1972, Domaine Chandon in 1973, Opus One in 1979, and Domaine Carneros in 1987.

The decade of the 1980s was one of massive development in Napa Valley. The advent of drip irrigation in the late 1970s meant that more vineyard land could be cultivated, and the success of the Judgment of Paris as well as enthusiastic journalist praise meant that making wine in California was no longer just for dreamers. Many of the new vintners that arrived during this decade came armed with significant sums of money, and the timbre of the valley began to shift toward something more glamorous. This new breed of proprietors may have wanted their names on the bottle, but they didn’t necessarily want their hands in the vat. Because of this, there was a great need for professional winemakers, and universities such as UC Davis became an important source of training, affecting the style of wine being made.

Napa Valley’s dramatic transformation in the 1990s had its roots in the 1980s, when massive flooding during the winter of 1986 spread phylloxera valley wide. Many of the new vineyards planted during the 1980s had used AXR1 for a rootstock, which proved insufficiently resistant. Signs of decline appeared toward the end of the decade, and by the early 1990s, much of Napa Valley had to be replanted. This costly endeavor gave the vintners an opportunity to modernize their vineyards, and Bordeaux was a key source of inspiration. Due in part to the 1991 “60 Minutes” special on the French paradox, which promoted consumption of red wine as part of a healthy diet, plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon overtook those of Chardonnay in 1992. In many ways, this moment marks the beginning of modern Napa Valley.

The Nineties & Beyond

During the replant, many Napa vintners modeled the composition of their vineyards after Bordeaux and adopted its farming practices as well. Techniques such as Vertical Shoot Positioning (VSP), high-density planting, and low-fruiting zones were designed to maximize the fleeting warmth and sunlight of a marginal climate. In hot and sunny California, such practices resulted in extremely ripe and fruity wines. This was also the time of the cult winery, which had begun in the late 1980s and early 1990s and was epitomized by an elite group of micro-producers that included Dalla Valle, Screaming Eagle, Harlan, and Colgin. These wineries had in common a combination of scant production, extremely high prices, and polished, showy wines. The increasingly powerful American wine press adored them, and consumers went to great lengths to win the coveted spots on their mailing lists. Because their productions were so small, most of these wineries could not justify hiring a dedicated winemaker and instead relied on consulting winemakers, who became the rock stars of Napa Valley. This trend has continued, with many of Napa’s most attention-getting wines made by a surprisingly small number of influential winemakers, often hired as much for their direct line to critics as for their skills in the cellar.

Even though the wines of the 1990s were far more fruit-driven and slick than anything that had come before, their ripeness was still relatively contained. It would take the unusual 1997 vintage to alter the course of Napa once again. That was a warm year, but more importantly, it was an extremely abundant year. There was so much fruit on the vines that most wineries simply did not have the tank space to process everything at once. They harvested the first wave at “normal” ripeness levels and left the remaining crop out to hang until the initial batches finished fermentation, not expecting that the extra-ripe fruit would make good wine. But when they finally harvested and vinified the second wave, they found the results to be pleasantly concentrated, with lower acid and smoother tannins. Many blended the two lots together, and when the wines hit the market in 1999 and 2000, the critical and consumer response was extremely enthusiastic. And so, extended hang time became the new normal in Napa Valley.

In the first decade of the new millennium, both ripeness and prices continued to climb. The breaks pumped in 2008, however, following the American housing market crash. Not only did the decline of conspicuous consumption, shrinking wine lists, and shuttering restaurants temporarily hurt sales, but the creation of affordable luxuries became something of a heroic pursuit. It is perhaps then no coincidence that 2009 and 2010 saw the birth of the New California movement, a band of mostly young producers that rejected the Bordeaux/Burgundy hegemony and took their inspiration from the more fringe wine regions of the world, or even California’s own past. The wines varied widely in terms of varietal composition and appellation of origin but tended to be lower in alcohol and higher in acidity. Critically, they were significantly more affordable than the mainstream wines they were reacting against. These qualities combined to endear the new generation of sommeliers, wine buyers, and millennial consumers to California wine, and, in a classic case of rising tides, also drew attention to some of the “old school” producers such as Togni and Mayacamas, which had continued to make wine in a restrained style despite the shifting fashions of the previous decades.

That same zeitgeist has begun to affect many of the top-tier producers as well. Wineries such as Harlan, Screaming Eagle, and Dalla Valle—still standard-bearers of quality—have started dialing back their ripeness and use of new oak, prompting claims that Napa is shifting once again, this time toward moderation. While the actions of these premium wineries are likely to have a trickle-down effect on some second-tier producers, many are still holding strong to their hedonistic ways. The result is that Napa is settling into stylistic camps à la Barolo, with modernists, traditionalists, experimentalists, and everything in between, each with their own territory. Not only does this feel like a maturation of the industry, it is good news for consumers, as there is an exciting diversity of wines available on the market.

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Climate & Geography

Napa Valley’s climate is classified as Mediterranean, with long, dry, hot summers and cooler, wet winters. Physically, Napa is sandwiched between the ocean-influenced Sonoma County and the warmer, drier Central Valley. The wider, southern end of Napa Valley is close to the San Pablo Bay and its attendant fog and breezes. It’s this proximity that gives Napa its reverse temperature gradient, with the hottest areas in the north toward Calistoga and the coolest areas in the south, an opposite trajectory than is typical for the Northern Hemisphere.

Fog plays an important role in Napa’s climate and microclimates. While much of Sonoma is covered by fog daily, the Mayacamas Mountains that separate the two counties act as a goalie, blocking most of the fog from proceeding eastward into Napa. Aside from a few cracks in the ridge, there are two main entry points for the fog: San Pablo Bay to the south and the Chalk Hill Gap to the north. Most of the fog enters from the south, and during the warm summer months, it blankets Oak Knoll and Yountville almost every morning. By the time it reaches Oakville, the fog is considerably thinner, and by St. Helena, it is wispy at best. In the north, a smaller amount of fog makes its way into Calistoga via the Chalk Hill Gap near Diamond Mountain, but this burns off quickly so has only a modest effect on daytime temperatures.

Because Napa Valley is such a warm place, its dramatic diurnal swing is a huge part of what makes quality viticulture possible. The precise range of the diurnal swing varies according to location. The biggest drop, up to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, is seen in the north around the Calistoga area, whereas down south the difference averages 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Elevation affects the diurnal swing as well; higher up in the hills, the daytime temperatures are lower but the nighttime temperatures are higher, making for a smaller day-to-night shift than on the valley floor. This is especially true above the fog line, which sits at approximately 1,400 feet.

Rainfall moves in a similar pattern, with the highest levels at the north end of the valley and in the mountains. Summers are generally bone dry, with most rain falling between October and April, sometimes for a month at a time. Though the two mountain ranges—the western Mayacamas Mountains and the eastern Vaca Mountains—receive virtually the same amount of precipitation, the Mayacamas look verdant while the Vacas appear scorched. This is largely because the eastern-facing slopes of the Mayacamas enjoy the gentle morning sun while the western-facing Vacas bake in the afternoon heat. This dichotomy is especially evident for the more southern mountains of Pritchard Hill and Atlas Peak. Of course, exposure isn’t the total story, as differences in soil composition also influence the types of flora that thrive in the hills.

The soils of Napa Valley are incredibly diverse, with over 30 distinct types that overlap and interweave, forming complex patterns. These soils evolved from Napa’s three basic bedrocks: Great Valley sequence, Franciscan Assemblage (or Franciscan Complex), and Napa Volcanics (also known as Sonoma Volcanics). The Great Valley sequence and Franciscan Assemblage are the oldest of the three and both formed between 80 and 140 million years ago. The former was created when the sand- and clay-dominant ancient seabed near the Sierra Nevada Mountains compressed over millions of years to create sandstone and shale, and the latter formed offshore as the Farallon Plate subducted beneath the North American Plate. Franciscan Assemblage is a term for a wide range of substrates formed by this action, as undersea volcanoes, marine substrate, and ocean crust were smeared together along the edge of the North American Plate. Then, only seven million years ago, after what we know as California had risen from the sea, volcanic vents opened in the ground, spewing lava and ash on top of the preexisting bedrock.

The mountains themselves rose about four million years later, first the Vacas, then the Mayacamas. Both are a result of the Pacific Plate exerting pressure on the North American Plate, causing the valley to be formed parallel to the San Andreas Fault offshore, which is why Napa Valley cants to the northwest. The Vacas were made when the crust cracked and stacked on top of itself, while the Mayacamas are derived from what is known as a crustal wrinkle. The differences between the two processes are quite complex, but the result is that the Vacas have more exposed bedrock and less uniform soils than the Mayacamas. Volcanic material is present throughout the valley but concentrated along the Vacas and the Mayacamas north of St. Helena.

In the three million years since Napa Valley stabilized, water, wind, microbial activity, and the occasional seismic shift have created the diverse soil patterns that exist today. One critical development from a grapegrowing perspective was the formation of alluvial fans, sometimes referred to as Napa’s benches. These benches act as a transition point between rocky hillside vineyards and the fertile valley floor. They are created over a long period of time, as rivers, streams, and rainwater carry mountain material down the slopes. The larger, heavier items such as rocks and gravel accumulate closer to the mountain, while the lighter materials such as silt and sand travel further. The result is a gently sloping, gravel-rich, well-draining patch of earth that is uniquely suited to vine cultivation. Interestingly, in Napa Valley, most alluvial fans are located on the western foothills. This is due in large part to the fact that the valley floor slopes gently southward and westward. While the lowest points of Oak Knoll and Carneros are effectively at sea level, Calistoga starts at approximately 350 feet in elevation. Similarly, the foothills of the Vaca Mountains are slightly higher in elevation than the foothills of the Mayacamas Mountains, which favor accumulation in the west.

The Napa River bisects the length of the valley. Centuries of flooding have resulted in the buildup of richly fertile sand, silt, and loam around its banks. This is generally considered inferior land for Cabernet Sauvignon production and so is often used for Sauvignon Blanc or other, less fussy varieties. Meanwhile, in the mountains, the vineyards are significantly smaller and harder to farm. Not only is the soil far more shallow and rocky, but the slopes can be formidable. Napa Valley forbids the cultivation of any slope greater than 30 degrees, which also limits vineyard size. That said, a handful of even steeper sites that were planted before this ordinance have been grandfathered in and can still be spotted among Napa’s many hillsides.

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The Grapes of Napa

All statistics courtesy of the National Agricultural Statistics Service.

Cabernet Sauvignon (21,747 acres, 2018): Though Napa Valley is now indelibly associated with Cabernet Sauvignon, this dominance has only been secure since 1992. Prior to that, Napa’s varietal identity was a moving target, with Petite Sirah and Chardonnay taking turns at the lead. As of 2016, however, Cabernet Sauvignon represents 20,759 acres, or 46% of Napa’s total planted acreage.

Cabernet Sauvignon can be found throughout Napa, but the most prestigious locations are the valley floor appellations of Stags Leap, Oakville, Rutherford, and St. Helena (especially along the western benchland); the mountain appellations of Howell Mountain, Pritchard Hill, and Diamond Mountain; and, to a lesser extent, Calistoga and Coombsville. South of Oakville, some excellent Cabernet Sauvignon sites exist, such as Yountville’s Dominus and Sleeping Lady, but cooler climate varieties gain in prominence. In the mountains, Spring Mountain, Mount Veeder, and Atlas Peak also boast excellent Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards, but the varied topography, slightly cooler climate, and preponderance of quirky producers has made for a wider range of grape types than on the other mountains.

By many measures, Napa Valley is “planted out” at its current span of 45,339 acres, due to the limited amount of hospitable terrain as well as developmental regulations. As total acreage is unlikely to expand in a significant way, increases in Cabernet Sauvignon come at the expense of other varieties. There are many reasons why Cabernet plantings are on the rise, but the two main factors are prestige and price. As for the former, Cabernet Sauvignon is what Napa Valley is known for and what consumers expect.

But price is certainly an equal if not superior motivator, both for growers and producers. In 2016, the average price per ton for Cabernet Sauvignon was $6,830, though a handful of super premium vineyards could command over $20,000 a ton. With prices this high, it is hard to justify growing anything else, and wineries can charge significantly more for a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon than for any other varietal or blended wine. And so, although Napa’s terrain and climate make it suitable to a wide range of cultivars, the economics of growing grapes in Napa Valley mean that Cabernet Sauvignon will continue to dominate. Certain producers have actively fought this, either by buying up the at-risk, non-Cabernet vineyards, or, in the instance of Turley, by paying “Cabernet prices” so their growers will keep old vine Zinfandel and Petite Sirah in the ground.

Chardonnay (5,900 acres, 2018): In the early 1940s, per the recollection of Stony Hill’s Peter McCrea, there were about 200 acres of Chardonnay in the entire state of California. Though the variety grew in popularity, it would take until the mid-1970s for it to gain a significant stronghold in Napa Valley. From that point on, however, its rise was swift, and by the early 1980s, it was the most widely planted variety in Napa. The dominant style of that time was oaky and often slightly sweet.

After a decade of dominance, Chardonnay took a backseat to Cabernet in 1992. This happened for several reasons: the heavy-handed style of most Chardonnay led to a backlash, famously dubbed ABC for “Anything but Chardonnay”; 1991’s “60 Minutes” coverage of the French paradox promoted red wine over white for health; and the massive replant caused by phylloxera saw many Chardonnay vineyards flipped to red wine production. As much of the heavy growth of the 1980s was Chardonnay, which was widely planted on AXR1, those were the most vulnerable vines. Older vines such as Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and Cabernet Sauvignon that were likely planted on St. George rootstock survived the phylloxera infestation without much problem.

Today, Chardonnay remains the second most widely planted variety in Napa County. While most vines are in Carneros, Oak Knoll, and Yountville, a handful of other sites excel. These include Kongsgaard’s Judge Vineyard in Coombsville, the Star Vineyard in Rutherford, Mayacamas on Mount Veeder, and Stony Hill on Spring Mountain. The style of Napa Valley Chardonnay varies wildly depending upon the intention of the producer, but everything from rich and oaky to lean and crisp can be found.

Merlot (4,154 acres, 2018): Merlot was a rarity in Napa Valley until the Bordeaux makeover of the early 1990s. During that decade, Merlot plantings boomed until the 2004 movie Sideways stopped that growth in its tracks. Yet while Merlot plantings have since receded in other parts of the state, its acreage in Napa has been more stable. Most of the vines are in the sprawling Oak Knoll appellation, but almost every AVA has some Merlot.

While it is most often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and occasionally Cabernet Franc, Merlot can be found on its own as well. Depending on the source of the fruit, styles vary. Merlot from warmer areas such as St. Helena and Calistoga can be quite full-bodied and rich, while those examples from the south, especially clay-rich Carneros, can be more elegant.

Pinot Noir (2,615 acres, 2018): Pinot Noir plantings in Napa County have been relatively stable, hovering at over 2,000 acres, since the mid-1970s. Where the vines are planted, though, has changed. In the 1940s, 1950s, and 1960s, vineyards in Napa were generally a patchwork of varieties, with grapes with widely different climatic preferences planted next to one another. It was in the 1940s that Tchelistcheff and others began advocating for greater terroir sensitivity, with much of the conversation focused on moving Pinot Noir to cooler areas of Napa. Today, this is a given. Most Pinot Noir is in Carneros, but it is also found in Coombsville, Spring Mountain, and even Rutherford.

Sauvignon Blanc (2,776 acres, 2018): Sauvignon Blanc has been a popular grape among Napa’s vintners since the early 1980s, and today it is planted in almost every appellation. It is regularly found along the banks of rivers and streams, especially the Napa River. Not only does it perform well in highly fertile, fluvial soils, but it retains its acidity at high temperatures and is also quite resistant to Pierce’s disease, a malady carried by sharpshooters, which are often found by waterways. Sauvignon Blanc’s more aromatic clone, Sauvignon Musqué, has also been gaining in popularity, and the two are regularly blended together. Styles range less here than with other varieties, and Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc tends to be more tropical than grassy. Oak aging is not uncommon, especially among high-end Napa producers, who have extended their Bordeaux homage into the white spectrum. Oak-aged Sauvignon Blanc is occasionally labeled as Fumé Blanc, a term invented by Robert Mondavi in the 1960s to imbue the variety with an Old World gravitas.

Zinfandel (1,275 acres, 2018): Zinfandel is a grape of great historical import to Napa Valley. Many of the region’s most widely acclaimed wines of the 1880s and 1890s were based at least partly on Zinfandel. Later, during Prohibition, it became one of California’s most widely planted varieties. Today, most of the truly old vine vineyards in Napa are either Zinfandel or mixed black field blends that include Zinfandel. These ancient vineyards tend to be concentrated in Calistoga, on the mountains, or in Coombsville.

Zinfandel had a difficult time recovering its reputation after Prohibition, and many vineyards were converted—and still are being converted—to more fashionable and profitable grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon. The White Zinfandel phenomenon that began in the late 1970s, however, saved more than one great old Zinfandel vineyard from the bulldozer. That said, it hardly did Zinfandel’s reputation any favors. White Zinfandel remains a popular category among low price point brands, but very little of it is made from Napa Valley fruit. Napa Zinfandel tends to be vinified in a dry, red style, with expressions that vary from jammy to muscular to elegant.

The 2001 discovery of the Croatian origin of Zinfandel, where it is known as Crljenak Kaštelanski, was made by a Napa vintner and geneticist, Dr. Carole Meredith, based in part on the recollections of another Napa vintner, the Croatian-born Mike Grgich.

Other Varieties: In descending order, the other major grapes of Napa Valley are Cabernet Franc (1,096 acres), Syrah (670 acres), Petite Sirah (824 acres), and Petit Verdot (732 acres).

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Viticulture in Napa

In Napa Valley, viticulture has shifted dramatically over the decades. Historically, Napa’s vineyards were planted in a manner known as California sprawl, a kind of floppy, bush-style training wherein the grapes were well protected from the sun by a wild and untamed canopy. The vines tended to be widely spaced and, if planted prior to the mid-1970s, were dry-farmed. The introduction of drip irrigation in the 1970s and the popularization of Vertical Shoot Positioning (VSP) in the 1980s and 90s transformed the appearance of Napa’s vineyards. The VSP system made for a uniform, if somewhat exposed, fruiting zone and opened the door to mechanical farming. More recently, the vineyards have been evolving again. The latest style of trellising seems to marry the old with the new, opening the canopy of VSP into a kind of Y- or V-shape, providing better shade to the grapes while maintaining the uniform fruit zone. Many growers have also concluded that the ideal row orientation mirrors the path of the sun, so that both sides of the vine ripen evenly; this also eliminates the need for shade cloth or multiple harvest passes.

Other important directions in Napa Valley viticulture include the impressively widespread move toward some version of sustainable viticulture. NVV reports that as of 2017, 45% of Napa’s vineyards are certified Napa Green, a proprietary designation that goes beyond the vineyard and includes the roadways and waterways on a given property. The 2016 Napa Valley crop report states that 3,897 acres are certified organic, which equals about 9% of all vineyard land. Biodynamic viticulture remains a marginal pursuit for Napa growers, but a handful proudly fly that flag, with many more applying selective biodynamic treatments in their farming without seeking certification.

Though many bemoan that one effectively must be a millionaire to own a winery in Napa Valley, a benefit of that collective wealth is the ability and willingness of many of Napa’s vintners to invest heavily in new technologies. And while such advances naturally influence winemaking, recent efforts in the viticultural sphere are especially noteworthy. The extreme drought of 2012 through 2016 made growers take a hard look at water conservation. From monitoring the sap flow of vines to canopy sensors that measure leaf expiration, Napa’s top vintners now have an array of tools to help them make better-informed watering decisions. The advent of optical sorting has caused a stir as well. Adopted from the blueberry industry, an optical sorter can be tuned to reject all but the most perfect and uniform berries. While this has certainly caused some controversy, proponents praise it as laborsaving. Nonetheless, most Napa vineyards are still hand harvested, and in some cases, this is necessitated by the terrain.

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Napa's Evolving Style

The Napa Valley's viticultural evolution has had major, if rarely discussed, ramifications on the style of its wines. Most writers credit changes in consumer taste, climate change, or score-chasing for Napa’s shifting style, but farming practices have played an important role as well. Cabernet Sauvignon from the 1960s and 1970s was typically gutsy and tannic, with full flavor at lower alcohols (about 12 to 13.5%). Though the wisdom of the time called for earlier picking than is common today, the vineyards also leant themselves naturally to this style, with the shaded canopy, higher crop loads, and, most likely, a good amount of virus retarding ripening. Vineyards were generally harvested in one pass, no matter the uniformity of ripeness, and the grapes were left to ferment in large tanks. Though stainless steel was introduced to Napa Valley in 1966, giant redwood vats were the fermentation vessel of choice for this era.

In the 1980s, the wines became more clinical—correct in terms of chemistry, but noticeably tampered with, stern, and occasionally shrill. This is partly because of the influx of young winemakers trained in food safety practices, but it is also because of the overzealous application of drip irrigation in the vineyard (along with over-acidification and aggressive filtration in the cellar). Overtures toward the notion of so-called “food wines” are also to blame for this stylistic shift. Championed most vocally by Robert Mondavi, food wines were ideally to be lower in alcohol and extract than the wines of the 1970s, and higher in acidity. While some of these wines were successful, quality is very uneven across the decade. Both Robert Parker (The Wine Advocate) and James Laube (Wine Spectator) lamented this stylistic about-face, and regularly took producers to task for what they thought was stripping their wines of body and character.

Several events toward the end of the first decade of the 2000s seemed to presage yet another major stylistic shift in Napa Cabernet. Perhaps more important than the economic crash of 2008 was the shakeup at The Wine Advocate. Parker announced his retirement from Napa wine reviews in 2011, then sold his company two years later. Though he remains active, this unnerved some producers, especially the typically high-scoring ones. And while it is true that many winemakers have reduced their ripeness and reliance on new oak slightly, most still revel in both. That said, a good proportion of newer vineyards (planted as those from the 1980s hit the 30-year mark) have shaded canopies and boast more reasonable yields, resulting in wines that offer full flavor at slightly lower alcohol levels and with more naturally refreshing acidities, but with modern impact.

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The Appellation System

Starting in 1980, the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms, and Explosives (ATF) began delineating specific winegrowing appellations, called AVAs, or American Viticultural Areas, a process now overseen by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB). Unlike their European counterparts, an AVA’s only purpose is to define the physical limits of an appellation; it does not attempt to control the varieties planted, farming practices, or winemaking techniques. The resulting freedom of expression is in many ways a major strength of the American wine industry, but it can also lead to unchecked trend-chasing and a lack of quality control. One need only consider how regularly centennial vineyards are bulldozed for Cabernet Sauvignon to understand how even a few protective measures might be welcome.

The Napa Valley AVA was awarded in 1981—the first in the state of California but, oddly, the second in the nation, after Augusta in Missouri. Two years later, a series of nested AVAs within the Napa Valley AVA was initiated, starting with Los Carneros and Howell Mountain, two of the most geographically and geologically distinct subregions of Napa. This process of carving Napa Valley into small, individualistic pieces is slow but ongoing. Many more AVAs are in the works, in various stages of deliberation. Until the growers in unnamed areas organize and petition the government, their wines will only be eligible for the broader reaching, catch-all Napa Valley AVA.

While the increase in appellations can be seen as a reflection of the growing sophistication of the American wine market and its understanding of terroir, the AVA system is imperfect at best. Because the legwork to initiate an AVA falls on the producers, it is often property lines, rather than natural geographic boundaries (such as streams, rivers, and soil groups) that determine an appellation’s reach. In addition, properties that border the proposed boundaries are given the opportunity to lobby for inclusion and are generally granted entry by the conflict-adverse TTB. Consider the Stags Leap District, a self-contained universe within Napa that was expanded beyond its original limits to accommodate interested neighbors.

The most profound example of the overly inclusive nature of the AVA process is the Napa Valley AVA itself. Ask anyone off the street for the definition of a valley, and they will likely tell you that it is the space between two opposing mountain peaks or ranges. This was the logic used for the original Napa Valley AVA proposal in 1979. That draft was quickly met with complaints from growers to the east of Napa Valley proper, from areas such as Pope Valley and Wooden Valley. They argued that history was on their side, since their grapes had been feeding wines marketed as “Napa Valley” for years. It didn’t take long for some of Napa’s bigger wineries to realize that an exclusive AVA would prohibit them from bolstering their blends with cheaper grapes, and many powerful brands backed this movement. Ultimately, the ATF sided on the favor of inclusion, with the result that the Napa Valley AVA is nearly the size of the entire Napa County.

Another major controversy for Napa’s appellations surrounded the division of the valley floor. Currently, these appellations are named according to their respective townships—Yountville, Oakville, Rutherford, St. Helena, and Calistoga. Driving north through the valley, there are no real abrupt shifts in sensory impressions when passing from one of these AVAs into another. Indeed, the differences from north to south are gradual and in some cases marginal. Drive crossways through the valley, however, and the differences are dramatic. The journey from Dalla Valle to Harlan across Oakville, for example, takes you from the steep volcanic slopes of the Vaca Mountains to the red-stained soils of east Oakville across the rich fluvial basin of the Napa River to the gravel-rich alluvial fans of To-Kalon and up into the sedimentary slopes of the Mayacamas. These subzones extend the length of the valley, and while each has their merit, the benchland along the western edge is by far the most famous. This strip of land is made from a series of alluvial fans that stretch from Yountville to St. Helena. Specific benchland subzones within the Oakville and Rutherford appellations were proposed in 1989, but were fought by non-benchland producers who felt excluded. When Oakville and Rutherford passed in 1993, no official recognition was given to the benches that helped forge Napa’s reputation.

Of course, all this leads to the question of whether the wine-drinking public even cares about sub-appellations. Though each new AVA inspires a fresh batch of publicity, many consumers approach Napa wine with a brand-first attitude. This may very well be due to the preponderance of single vineyards, which were born in Napa Valley with Martha’s and Eisele, and are possibly more resonant with consumers than the AVAs that contain them. In the end, it’s a question of marketing and education. Until the conversations surrounding Napa Valley start emphasizing land over brand, brand loyalty will win every time.

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Napa's AVAs

The following is a list of Napa’s AVAs in the order they were created.

Total planted acreage: 43,365
Gross acreage: 465,000

The Napa Valley AVA takes as its western boundary the ridgeline of the Mayacamas Mountains, which also serves as the county line dividing Napa from Sonoma. In the north, it borders Lake County, with the massive Mount St. Helena capping off the valley proper. At its southern end, the AVA extends even after the Mayacamas Mountains level off, past Carneros to American Canyon and the marshes of the San Pablo Bay. The valley proper occupies only the western half of the appellation; the other half encompasses the area to the east of the Vaca Mountains and west of Lake Berryessa and Solano County. These eastern hills and valleys are far less populated, both in terms of vines and people, and the vineyards tend to be more production oriented, with a handful of quality exceptions such as the Juliana Vineyard in Pope Valley.

The valley itself—the region between the Mayacamas and Vaca Mountains—is the heart and soul of the Napa Valley AVA. Only two main roads traverse its length: Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail. Hundreds of wineries line these two roads, with Highway 29 the more famous and crowded of the two. Millions of tourists descend each year, standing elbow-to-elbow in the public tasting rooms and fighting for tables in the area’s many celebrated restaurants. Yet a 15-minute drive up either mountain range reveals a different world entirely—more bucolic, less congested.

The striking contrast between mountaintop and valley floor is not the only contradiction contained within Napa. Multi-generation farming families comingle with multi-millionaires in Napa’s handful of hamlets; gnarly old head-trained, dry-farmed vineyards are a nostalgic counterpart to the military precision of the VSP-trained vine rows; and family farms dedicated to livestock and Zinfandel are only a few doors down from some of the world’s most luxurious and exclusive estates. Though it sometimes can feel like the old farming families and rustic operations are losing ground, any close look at Napa reveals far more diversity than is obvious from afar.

Within the Napa Valley AVA are 17 nested AVAs, each with their own distinguishing characteristics, outlined below.

Average rainfall: 18–24 inches
Total planted acreage: 6,036 (Napa County only)
Gross acreage: 37,139 (Napa County only)

Los Carneros is Spanish for “the sheep,” a reference to the area’s long history in livestock. It is an unusual appellation in that it spans both Napa and Sonoma counties. This creates some interesting complications; based on where the grapes come from, a Carneros wine can be bottled as either Carneros, Napa Valley, Sonoma Valley, or even Sonoma Coast.

Physically, Carneros is defined by its gently rolling hills and proximity to the San Pablo Bay. Its regular fog and constant ocean breezes make it an ideal area for cool climate varieties, and for many years Carneros was referred to as Napa’s Burgundy. Indeed, most of its acreage is dedicated to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Merlot has been gaining traction in recent years, and to great effect, as it thrives in the clay-dominant sandy soils. In the north of the appellation, the hills get steeper as they approach the foothills of Mount Veeder, and the occasional pocket of volcanic soil can be found. In many places, a rock-hard shelf of clay lays just a few feet beneath the surface of the soil, limiting root depth and rendering irrigation essential.

Wine grapes have been cultivated here since the 1830s, with the first winery established in the 1850s. Stanly Ranch, still an important and sizable vineyard, was already planted to 300 acres by the 1880s but was devastated by phylloxera in the 1890s. Recovery after Prohibition was slow, with the first post-repeal winery, Carneros Creek, opening in 1972. Shortly thereafter, Carneros was identified as an ideal site for sparkling wine production, with Taittinger establishing Domaine Carneros and Moët & Chandon (Domaine Chandon) buying extensive vineyard land. Though today there are a significant number of wineries, Carneros is a landscape dominated by large, sweeping vineyards.

Stylistically, these examples of Pinot Noir abound in bright and fruity cherry tones and are fuller in body than those from the Sonoma Coast. Chardonnay ranges in style depending on clone, site, and vine age but tends to be generous in weight with a medium acidity, concentrated flavor, and elevated phenolics, given the thick skins that form in response to the relentless wind. Merlot might be the star of the appellation, however, with the best wines offering noble restraint and an earth-flecked plum fruit that is rarely overblown.

Notable vineyards: Hudson, Hyde, Poseidon, Sangiacomo (Sonoma), Stanly Ranch, Truchard

Average rainfall: 40–50 inches
Total planted acreage: 1,009
Gross acreage: 13,074

Howell Mountain is unique among Napa AVAs in that it is bound by clear geographic criteria: a vineyard must be located at or above 1,400 feet above sea level to claim the appellation. This elevation was not randomly selected; rather, it is what is known as the fog line, the atmospheric inversion layer that marks the upper limit of the fog. Above this elevation, vineyards have an almost unmitigated access to sunshine, a distinguishing factor seized upon by the architects of the AVA, Randy Dunn, Bill Smith, Bob Lamborn, Bob Brakesman, and Mike Beatty.

The mountain itself is more like an elevated plateau, measuring eight-by-three miles across. The soils are poor, thin, and rocky. Though the majority are volcanic, they vary in that expression, with the northwest side of the mountain rich in iron and clay, and the southeast area dominated by compressed grey and white volcanic ash, or tuff. Daytime temperatures are cooler than on the valley floor, but the diurnal swing is smaller. The challenging growing conditions make for thick-skinned, small-berried fruit that tends to be quite tannic. Though the mountain is best known for Cabernet Sauvignon, its many Zinfandel vineyards often make for equally excellent wines.

Howell is both Napa’s most famous and most populous mountain, as it is the only one to sport its own town, Angwin. Interestingly, the town’s founder, Edwin Angwin, sold nearly 2,000 acres of what would today be considered prime vineyard land to the (alcohol free!) Seventh-day Adventist Church in 1909, which established the Pacific Union College on the property. Prior to Angwin’s ownership, the land had been part of the second grant given to George C. Yount, the Rancho La Jota, in 1843.

Although all materials had to be carted up the hillside by horse and carriage, Howell Mountain developed on pace with the valley below and sported a significant winery, Brun & Chaix, by the 1870s. Prohibition was especially unkind to Howell Mountain, however, as with a few notable exceptions, winemaking didn’t return in force until the late 1970s. It is now home to multiple wineries, and though many old vine vineyards and old school producers are holding strong, the mountain is taking on an increasingly polished air.

For many consumers, Randy Dunn’s wines present the hallmark style of a Howell Mountain Cabernet—tannic, blue-fruited, herb kissed, and slow-maturing. A rise in more moneyed vintners has started to alter the timbre of production in recent years, with big names such as Dana Estate, Outpost, and ADAMVS focusing on a riper and showier style. Zinfandel is another extremely important grape to Howell Mountain; notable old vine vineyards include Beatty Ranch and Turley’s Rattlesnake Ridge and Dragon Vineyards.

Notable vineyards: Bancroft Ranch, Beatty Ranch, Black Sears, Cade, Dragon, Dunn, Hershey, Ink Grade, La Jota, Las Posadas, Rattlesnake Ridge, Steinhauer Ranch, True, W. S. Keyes

Average rainfall: 35 inches
Total planted acreage: 72
Gross acreage: 3,941

Wild Horse Valley, like Carneros, spans two counties, with most land area belonging to Solano. Two very small slivers of the appellation are considered part of Napa Valley. Viticulturally, it is not very significant, with Heron Lake the only vineyard of note. The region sits at high elevation, which, along with its proximity to the San Pablo Bay, makes for a cooler growing climate. The soils are rocky and red-tinged with iron-rich volcanic material. The scant production is mostly dedicated to Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay, and the latter two can be quite refined in style.

Notable vineyard: Heron Lake

Average rainfall: 30 inches
Total planted acreage: 1,416
Gross acreage: 3,036

The Stags Leap District is one of the more unique regions of Napa. Ancient landslides off the Vacas deposited what are now smooth knolls on the flatland below. These knolls are a critical influence on the Stags Leap area, as they provide for some rare east-facing slopes and work to funnel and amplify the afternoon breezes that naturally flow through the valley. This creates a virtual wind tunnel that helps keep the vines disease free and cool in the hot afternoons. Stags Leap is also unusual in that it is the only valley floor AVA to not cross the river.

Though the AVA was expanded beyond its originally proposed boundaries, it is still one of Napa’s smallest. Tucked against the steep, forbidding cliffs of the Palisades to its east, Stags Leap is surrounded by Yountville on all other sides. The soils are complex, featuring a combination of sandstone and shale, with volcanic material concentrated along the eastern edge of the appellation, and more clay and loam to the west. Toward the south of the appellation lies one of the Vaca range’s biggest alluvial fans, which is currently split between two Stags Leap Wine Cellars vineyards, Fay and S.L.V.

The area enjoyed significant development in the 1870s through the 1890s, and then again in the 1960s and 1970s. In 1961, Nathan Fay famously planted the area’s first post-Prohibition Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine from these vines is a legend among Napa’s old-timers, and a single sip was sufficient to lure Warren Winiarski away from his recently developed vineyard on Howell Mountain. Winiarski founded Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars in 1973 next door to Fay (which the winery now owns), and his first vintage of Cabernet went on to win the Judgment of Paris. This shone an even brighter spotlight on the appellation, attracting a flurry of investors. Later, a complex and drawn-out series of lawsuits between Winiarski, his neighbor Carl Doumani, and a few other plaintiffs resulted in the following confusing assignment of apostrophes: Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Stags’ Leap Winery, and Stags Leap District.

Historically, the wines of Stags Leap were known for their supple texture, smooth tannins, and firm acidity. Today, it is harder to generalize, as the current collection of producers range in style. Cabernet Sauvignon is the dominant grape by far, however, and these examples have generally shown a great ability to age.

Notable vineyards: Fay, Futo 5500, Hartwell, Pine Ridge, Poetry, Regusci, S.L.V., Shafer, Silverado, Sinskey, Steltzner, Wappo Hill

Average rainfall: 35 inches
Total planted acreage: 1,101
Gross acreage: 16,896

Mount Veeder is one of Napa’s least developed appellations, featuring a massive swath of land and relatively little viticulture. Part of this lack of cultivation is due to fashion, but it is also due to the nature of the mountain. As Napa County forbids planting on any slopes steeper than 30 degrees, much of Mount Veeder is simply unplantable. Roads are limited as well, so Mount Veeder remains largely a homeland for the intrepid or the solitude-seeking.

Among all of Napa’s mountains, Mount Veeder has the distinction of being closest to the Bay and even shares a border with Carneros. This proximity renders it the coolest of the mountains, as it is regularly in the grasp of ocean fog and breezes. The terrain is craggy, so most vineyards are small, and the soil is rocky and shallow. Very little volcanic material is found on Mount Veeder; shale, sandstone, clay, and sandy loam are far more common. Across the county line on the Sonoma side of this mountain is the Moon Mountain AVA.

Much of Mount Veeder’s history in winemaking has been well preserved, making a trip up the mountain feel like a journey back in time. Two of the most important pre-Prohibition developments were the establishment of the Fisher & Sons Winery (now Mayacamas) and Theodore Gier’s winery, which for many years served as the home of the Christian Brothers order and today is a part of Hess. Following Prohibition, Mount Veeder was slow to rebuild its reputation, making it the ideal home for maverick producers such as Lagier Meredith and Sky. The more recent renewed interest in the cooler areas of Napa has led to something of a spike in development, however, both in terms of new projects and the renovation of old ones, such as the Schottenstein purchase and remodel of Mayacamas.

Mount Veeder’s limited plantings are dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, and the resulting wines typically abound in backbone. But due to variations in exposure and microclimate, other varieties thrive as well, and pockets of exceptional Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and especially Zinfandel and Syrah can be found across the mountain.

Notable vineyards: Abel 1833, Hess, Lagier Meredith, Mayacamas, Progeny, Scaggs, Sky

Average rainfall: 38 inches
Total planted acreage: 1,522
Gross acreage: 12,349

As with Mount Veeder, Atlas Peak was a little left behind in the rush to develop Napa Valley. In fact, most of the appellation’s planted area currently belongs to only two massive vineyards: Stagecoach, purchased by Gallo in 2017, and Antinori’s Antica property, which occupies Foss Valley, a large indent near the summit. Only a handful of other growers call Atlas Peak their home. But what they lack in volume, they make up for in prestige; two of the highest profile are John Kongsgaard and Heidi Barrett.

Atlas Peak has cultivated wine grapes since the 1870s, but vineyards were a relative rarity until what is now Antica was developed by William Hill in 1981. Further development has been held up at least in part due to a handful of large cattle ranches that occupy a chuck of the mountain. Lack of water is another impediment.

Atlas is one of the highest peaks in the area, reaching over 2,600 feet in elevation, and vines are cultivated almost to its summit. This is the most southerly of the Vaca Mountains, and despite its scrubby, scorched appearance, it is temperate, generally 10 to 15 degrees cooler than the valley floor. The soils are shallow, rocky, and low in fertility, with lots of iron-stained volcanic material throughout.

The wines are hard to generalize, as there are only a handful of estates, but there are also dozens, if not hundreds, of producers that bought fruit from Stagecoach Vineyard. That said, the best Cabernet examples are concentrated and well-structured, with a muscular frame and an iodine or bloodlike quality on the palate.

Notable vineyards: Antica, Au Sommet, Kongsgaard, Stagecoach, Water Ranch

Average rainfall: 38 inches
Total planted acreage: 3,905
Gross acreage: 7,456

In the early days of Napa’s wine industry, no region was better admired than Rutherford. As the home of Inglenook and Beaulieu Vineyard, Rutherford and its wines were the golden standard. After Prohibition, when André Tchelistcheff joined Beaulieu Vineyard, the fetishizing continued. Tchelistcheff even coined the phrase “Rutherford dust” to honor the wines, though whether this referred to the actual physical texture of the tannins or was simply a metaphor for Rutherford’s unique terroir is unclear.

The area takes its name from Thomas Rutherford, who married George Yount’s granddaughter in 1864 and was given over 1,000 acres of land as part of her dowry. Today, the appellation is sandwiched between St. Helena and Oakville and occupies the widest stretch of the valley, which means a higher number of daylight hours for the valley floor vines. The appellation is rectangular, with two protrusions on the western end that interrupt its geometry. These extensions, Flora Spring in the north and Beaulieu Vineyard’s BV Ranch #2 in the south, date back to the creation of the AVA, when they were grandfathered in to avoid breaking up those estates’ land holdings. In addition to Inglenook and Beaulieu Vineyard, Round Pond, Quintessa, and Andy Beckstoffer are major landowners.

To the naked eye, the terrain of Rutherford appears flat and uniform, but there are significant variations. There are proper hillside sites in the foothills that bookend the appellation, and Quintessa occupies a unique series of hills and mounds on the valley floor. The western edge of Rutherford is hugged by the famous bench, a sprawling alluvial fan that sends diminishing gravelly tendrils up to and occasionally across Highway 29. And in the center, the Napa River runs due south, neatly carving Rutherford’s rectangle into two even triangles. Near its banks, the soils take on more silt and clay, while in the east, volcanic material can be found.

As Rutherford is a large region almost entirely covered by vines, its portfolio of wines is diverse. Cabernet Sauvignon from the benchland is the most renowned, and tends to be balanced and perfumed, with the fruit and the structure of equal intensity. Super-modern, opulent Cabernet is both possible and popular, and it can be found in all corners of Rutherford. Tropical-style Sauvignon Blanc also does well here, as it is warm but still occasionally foggy, and the Chardonnay from the Star Vineyard is very highly regarded. As with almost everywhere in Napa, Zinfandel thrives as well.

Notable vineyards: Beckstoffer Georges III, Beckstoffer Melrose, Booth Bella Oaks, Bosché, BV Ranch #1, BV Ranch #2, Cakebread, J. J. Cohn, Inglenook, Frog’s Leap, Long Meadow Ranch, Quintessa, Raymond, Round Pond, St. Supéry, Staglin, Star, Sycamore, Trailside

Average rainfall: 35 inches
Total planted acreage: 3,581
Gross acreage: 6,821

If Rutherford was the historic heart of Napa Valley, Oakville is the contemporary one, as many of the greatest hits of the 1980s and 1990s are found here: Screaming Eagle, Harlan, Dalla Valle, Rudd, Silver Oak, Groth, Opus One. But though these brands have dominated the Napa conversation for decades, Oakville’s true legacy lies in its past, specifically in the guise of one vineyard: To-Kalon.

Arguably the most important vineyard in the state of California, To-Kalon was established by H. W. Crabb in 1868 and immediately earned a reputation for the highest quality. Crabb cultivated a range of premium varieties, and his brand was one of the earliest Napa Valley success stories. Eventually, however, the winery burned down, Crabb passed away, the property changed hands, and the name To-Kalon faded from memory. In 1943, an entrepreneur named Martin Stelling acquired the vineyard as part of a massive land grab. He carved off an 89-acre parcel and sold it to Beaulieu Vineyard; today, this plot is known as Beckstoffer To-Kalon, and it grows some of the most famous, sought-after, and expensive fruit in Napa Valley. Martin Stelling passed before he could do anything with the rest of the vineyard, and his heirs sold the majority to the Charles Krug Winery in 1962. Three years later, when Robert Mondavi was kicked out of Krug, he purchased the Stellings’ remaining 12 acres of To-Kalon and built his now-famous winery on the property. After a decade of legal wrangling with his estranged family, Robert Mondavi was awarded all of Charles Krug’s To-Kalon holdings in 1976. Mondavi would later resurrect the name To-Kalon, and while his winery still owns most To-Kalon vines, Andy Beckstoffer and four other growers claim smaller portions.

The alluvial fan that To-Kalon occupies is basically an extension of the Rutherford Bench—a deep, gravel-rich, gently sloping piece of earth renowned for its viticultural affinity. Beyond the bench, Oakville houses several distinct growing regions. The western foothills are dramatic and steep with mostly sedimentary soils and vineyards that appear carved out of forests. The center of the appellation is more fertile and less prestigious, though there are exceptions, such as the slightly elevated rocky patch from which Groth sources its Reserve. The eastern half of the appellation is more volcanic in character, with bright red hillside soils that extend partway across the valley floor.

Such a varied terrain lends itself to a wide range of expressions, and Oakville seems to present a particularly strong argument for further east-to-west AVA subdivision. For example, with Cabernet Sauvignon, the region’s flagship grape, wines from the eastern end of the appellation tend to display bright red fruit tinged with a notable iodine tone; the center of the appellation makes for more full-bodied, fruit-forward wines; the bench offers more classic, balanced wines; and from the western hills come more blue-fruited and stoic examples.

Notable vineyards: Backus, Beckstoffer To-Kalon, Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper, Dalla Valle, Detert, Far Niente, Gamble Ranch, Groth, Harlan, MacDonald, Martha’s Vineyard, Martin Stelling, Oakville Ranch, Opus One, Rudd, Silver Oak, St. Eden, Tench, To-Kalon, Vine Hill Ranch, Weitz

Average rainfall: 40–50 inches
Total planted acreage: 920
Gross acreage: 8,480

Located in the Mayacamas range, due west of St. Helena, the Spring Mountain District is a complex region that serves as the transition point between the more sedimentary peaks to the south and the more volcanic mountains in the north. Soil composition is varied and irregular and can change multiple times in the span of a single vineyard. The terrain is also quite variegated, making for all manner of slopes and exposures, though east is the dominant aspect.

There is no Spring Mountain, per se; the area is more of a collection of peaks and ridges than a single landmass. Vineyards extend from the foothills all the way up to the ridgeline, also known as the Napa/Sonoma county line, famously straddled by Pride Vineyards. The mountainside abounds in creeks and springs, which assist in viticulture, although much of the land is too steep to be cultivated. In the north, Ritchie Creek separates the appellation from the neighboring Diamond Mountain District, and the Sulphur Creek marks its southern boundary.

Most properties in the Spring Mountain District are small, often family-run, estates. The exception to this is Spring Mountain Vineyard, which is aptly named as it seems to occupy most of the Spring Mountain District. This unusual winery is a collection of historic estates—La Perla, founded in 1874; Miravalle, founded in 1884; and Chateau Chevalier, founded in 1891. Though these are the major names of the Spring Mountain District’s past, they were not the only 19th-century operations. This appellation was quite well developed prior to Prohibition, likely due to the area’s ample water supply.

Cabernet Sauvignon is an important variety on Spring Mountain, but is less dominant here than in other appellations. Within the category, styles range from to the more stoic wines of Cain, Smith Madrone, and Philip Togni to the plush, modern creations of Pride Mountain Vineyards and Vineyard 7 & 8. Looking beyond Cabernet, a plethora of options exist, thanks to the jumble of available microclimates. Some of the most compelling examples include Chardonnay, Riesling, Syrah, Zinfandel, and even Pinot Noir.

Notable vineyards: Barnett, Behrens, Cain, Marston, Newton, Pride, Ritchie Creek, School House, Smith-Madrone, Spring Mountain, Stony Hill, Togni

Average rainfall: 38–40 inches
Total planted acreage: 2,937
Gross acreage: 9,202

A large and complicated valley floor appellation, St. Helena is bordered by Rutherford in the south and Calistoga in the north. It resembles an hourglass in shape, and its narrow center is the skinniest section of Napa Valley. This pinch effectively cleaves the AVA into two pieces, with the larger and broader portion in the south. Though vineyards abound, this half of the appellation is dominated by the city of St. Helena, with buildings regularly encroaching on some of the best Cabernet land in Napa Valley.

St. Helena has been an important hub of commercial and winemaking activity since Napa’s earliest days. Charles Krug, Beringer, and the massive Greystone facility were hugely influential, as was the Sunny St. Helena Winery that first lured the Mondavi family away from Lodi in 1937. Some major farming families were based in St. Helena, and many remain. Names such as Lewelling, Crane, and Hayne were viticultural pioneers that set an early, strong reputation for the quality potential of St. Helena fruit.

Climatically, St. Helena is rather hot. Morning fogs are rare here, as are ocean breezes. Because of this, red Bordeaux varieties, Petite Sirah, and Zinfandel are the most well-suited grapes to the region, though there is also a fair amount of Sauvignon Blanc planted. The southern end of the appellation features a good amount of gravelly loam, especially on the western side, where the ancient pathways of the Spring Mountain District’s many creeks have left large underground deposits of gravel and river rocks. Toward the north, the soils become more volcanic. On the eastern side of the appellation, St. Helena stretches to include the lowest slopes of Howell Mountain; this area includes Spring Valley, a kind of unofficial subregion that serves as the headquarters for such wineries as Phelps and Heitz.

Most reds from St. Helena are powerful. Even those producers with a historically gentler touch such as Corison and Spottswoode produce wines of significant intensity, though they may be comparatively elegant.

Notable vineyards: Aida, Beckstoffer Bourn, Beckstoffer Las Piedras, Beringer, Cappella, Charles Krug, Crocker, Edge Hill, Forman, Grace, Hayne, Heitz, Hourglass, Kayli Morgan, Kronos, Lewelling, Library, Madrone, Phelps, Quella, Spottswoode, Turley, Tychson Hill, Vineyard 29

Average rainfall: 32 inches
Total planted acreage: 2,642
Gross acreage: 8,365

Though Yountville is home to some of Napa’s finest producers, the area remains better known for its restaurants than its vineyards. Beyond Main Street, however, with its tasting rooms and boutiques, Yountville transforms into a tranquil, idyllic place.

Yountville is named for George C. Yount, who planted Napa’s first vinifera vines inside the appellation in 1838 and 1839. The appellation enjoyed some 19th-century successes, but most of those brands have since been forgotten. Yountville was one of the last areas to truly bounce back after Prohibition, and the growth that it experienced was slow. Indeed, despite a handful of super premium producers like Dominus, Kapcsándy, and Blankiet, the region boasts far more vineyards than wineries. Large and important farming families such as the Gambles, Hoxseys, and Bettinellis control much of the acreage here, as does Domaine Chandon with its sprawling estate.

For a valley floor appellation, Yountville is quite bumpy. Ancient landslides deposited large chunks of mountain material on the flat of the valley, and these knolls have a major influence on the area’s microclimates. Though not as dramatically felt as in Stags Leap, these mounds influence airflow, provide for a range of exposures, and generally create fascinating complexities within the appellation. The soils vary according to location, with more gravel, clay, and alluvial deposits in the west; volcanics and sedimentary material in the east; and rich deep loam and clay in the center. This is also a relatively cool growing area and is shrouded in fog on an almost daily basis.

The preponderance of clay and the cooler temperatures make Yountville a source for seriously finessed and silky Merlot. Cabernet Sauvignon, especially from Dominus, Kapcsándy, and the Sleeping Lady Vineyard, tends to be more elegant than is typical for Napa, with gentle tannins, firm acidity, and fresh black fruits. Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon also perform well here. Chardonnay exists, too, but the wines are less interesting.

Notable vineyards: Gemstone, Ghost Block, Grgich, Kapcsándy, Napanook, Paradise Hills, Sleeping Lady

Average rainfall: 35 inches
Total planted acreage: 702
Gross acreage: 5,217

Chiles Valley is one of a handful of valleys that lie to the east of the Napa Valley proper, but it is the only one that can claim its own AVA. This long and skinny strip of land runs parallel to Napa Valley, behind Howell Mountain and Pritchard Hill. As with many valleys, the terrain is broken down into hillside slopes, alluvial foothills, and the fertile valley floor. Clay and silt dominate in the center of the valley, whereas the hillsides are more rocky and volcanic with thinner soils. Even though the ocean has almost no influence here, the elevation and winds—amplified by the steep slopes of the narrow valley—mitigate the heat.

Chiles Valley has always been an important source of less expensive fruit, largely used to bolster blends for bigger brands. That said, there are a handful of quality estates, such as Green & Red, Volker Eisele, Brown, and Nichelini, that work hard to combat the area's reputation for cheap and easy fruit.

Red Bordeaux varieties are the primary grapes of the region, and the wines tend to be fleshy and impactful. Volker Eisele has been especially successful at reigning in ripeness and creating wines of harmony and freshness, proving there is much left to discover regarding the potential of Chiles Valley.

Notable vineyards: Brown, Green & Red, Nichelini, Volker Eisele

Average rainfall: 40–55 inches
Total planted acreage: 512
Gross acreage: 4,988

The Diamond Mountain District is a particularly rugged and remote appellation and boasts only a handful of growers and wineries, most of them diminutive in size. It is also the smallest of Napa’s mountain AVAs; to the south, Ritchie Creek marks the border with the Spring Mountain District, while Calistoga wraps around it to the east and north, with Petrified Forest Road acting as the boundary.

As with the Spring Mountain District, there is no Diamond Mountain, just a collection of sloping, jagged hillsides gathered together under the AVA. Here, gaps between peaks are low enough to allow the Pacific fog and breezes to penetrate. While this fog has only a fleeting influence on Calistoga, it has a distinct cooling effect on parts of the Diamond Mountain District, which can add steel to the wines. The region’s soils tend to be rocky and poor, high in volcanic content and low in fertility.

Diamond Mountain became the site of Napa’s first hillside vineyard when Rheinhessen native Jacob Schram developed its slopes in the 1860s. Later, it was the home of Napa’s first cult brand, Diamond Creek, which Al Brounstein launched in 1968. Though Cabernet Sauvignon was already on its way to becoming Napa’s flagship variety, Diamond Creek was the first winery to focus on it exclusively. It was also first to give primacy to terroir, subdividing its already limited production according to soil type.

Cabernet Sauvignon dominates the appellation and tends toward the stricter, more stoic side of its expression. Recent years have seen more modern wineries set down roots, however, and they have brought more polish and ripeness to the mountain. Still, the inherent structure of the wines is difficult to fully suppress, and even the plushest examples tend to have significant backbone.

Notable vineyards: Constant, Dyer, Gravelly Meadow, Jasud, Lake, Red Rock Terrace, Schramsberg, Volcanic Hill

Average rainfall: 36 inches
Total planted acreage: 4,200
Gross acreage: 9,846

In contemporary terms, Oak Knoll is not a particularly well-known or highly regarded appellation, but following Carneros, it is the most widely developed nested AVA within Napa County. Historically, it played a foundational role in Napa’s wine industry. In the 1850s, John Osbourne established the Oak Knoll Ranch, from which the region takes its name. Osbourne was one of the first in Napa to import an extensive collection of varieties, and he personally sourced the material for many of the area’s pioneering vintners.

Oak Knoll sits on top of Napa city and connects Mount Veeder to Atlas Peak across the lowest reach of the valley floor. The appellation is quite flat, though it does climb a bit up into the foothills on either flank. This is one of the driest, coolest, and most fog-shrouded of Napa’s AVAs, and while Cabernet Sauvignon does exist, Merlot and Chardonnay tend to be more successful. The soils are rich and deep in the center, with a good amount of clay. The west features an alluvial fan from ancient Dry Creek runoff, and some volcanic material can be found in the northwest corner of the appellation.

The region is best known for the quality of its Merlot, which tends to be quite fruitful and supple. Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are the two other major grapes, and many other varieties are planted.

Notable vineyards: Aldo’s, Blackbird, Hendry Ranch, Trefethen

Average rainfall: 38–60 inches
Total planted acreage: 3,071
Gross acreage: 12,675

The massive Calistoga appellation is the northernmost of Napa’s valley floor AVAs. Because of its size, the terrain varies wildly. In the south, Calistoga sits on the opposite side of Bale Lane from the St. Helena AVA, but the other three sides of Calistoga are bordered by mountains: Howell to the east, Diamond to the west, and the towering Mount St. Helena to the north. This area was once a hotbed of volcanic activity, traces of which remain in the form of the region’s many hot springs and the high boron content of certain vineyards. As such, the dominant soil type is volcanic, though the south and center of the AVA feature a good amount of loam and gravel. Calistoga is also home to one of Napa’s rare eastern alluvial fans, upon which the famous Eisele Vineyard was established. Interestingly, because this end of the valley is more elevated than in the south, the lowest point of Calistoga’s valley floor is about 350 feet above sea level.

Calistoga established a reputation as a resort town before it ever became known for vines, as the area’s mineral baths and hot springs attracted both the sick and the wealthy. The name Calistoga is a reference to this thermal activity, a fusion of the words “California” and “Saratoga.” Viticulture eventually made its way this far north, and several of Napa’s most important grapegrowing families (including the Fredianis, Salminas, and Tofanellis) established vineyards here. Many of these vineyards and even some of the vines still exist. Larkmead’s early success was the biggest source of acclaim for the area in the 19th century, a historic legacy that was revived in the 1990s by the current owners.

After Prohibition, Calistoga was slow to recover, although there were a handful of very bright highlights. Eisele became only the third vineyard-designated wine after Martha’s and Monte Bello in 1971, and five years later, the Chateau Montelena Chardonnay ranked top white in the Judgment of Paris. Though the wine was not made from Calistoga fruit, that event brought a lot of attention to the area. Yet growth was slow and in many ways still is. Calistoga feels less flashy than the rest of the valley floor.

Situated furthest from the Bay, Calistoga is quite warm, though its significant diurnal swing (the largest in all of Napa Valley), helps to compensate for this. Even so, the wines tend to be robust, and the major varieties—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Zinfandel, and Petite Sirah—all make deeply colored, ultra-rich wines. A few isolated pockets such as the Eisele Vineyard maximize their microclimate to skew leaner, but such wines represent a minority. Sauvignon Blanc is also widely planted.

Notable vineyards: Chateau Montelena, Eisele, Frediani, Jericho Canyon, Lamb, Larkmead, Luvisi, Three Palms, Tofanelli

Average rainfall: 25 inches
Total planted acreage: 1,470
Gross acreage: 11,334

Located to the east of Napa city, Coombsville forms something of a bowl nestled into the Vaca foothills. It is climatically very interesting, as it is close enough to the Bay to experience a good amount of cooling ocean influence, but its position on the eastern end of the valley opens it up to the warm afternoon sun. The soils are equally fascinating, as Coombsville features an array of types, ranging from poor and shallow mountain soils to deep volcanic loam to compressed ash and even diatomaceous earth. As with the Stags Leap District, the Coombsville appellation does not cross the Napa River. This waterway serves as its western boundary, and the appellation stretches eastward over rolling hills and up the mountainside from there.

The area takes its name from Nathan Coombs, a 19th-century settler with no ties to the wine industry. The first major winery in the region came in the 1870s, when Henry Hagen established Cedar Knoll (now the site of Palmaz). In part because neither of Napa’s two major roadways make their way down to Coombsville, very few wineries were set up in the region after Prohibition. Vineyards, however, were plentiful, and Coombsville fruit has made important contributions to many of Napa’s larger production wines for decades. That seems to be changing now that AVA status has been granted, and a handful of small but high-profile brands are currently building facilities in the appellation.

When the Winkler Index debuted in the 1960s, Coombsville was categorized as a Region I, which resulted in significant plantings of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay during this era (Haynes, Kongsgaard’s Judge, many of Far Niente’s Chardonnay sources). Later, Tom Farella and John Caldwell made the case for Cabernet Sauvignon, which has steadily gained ground ever since.

Coombsville has no problem ripening Cabernet Sauvignon, but the wines have more restraint and structure than is typical for Napa. Though it is rare to find an older Cabernet made entirely of Coombsville fruit, the early efforts of Farella and Pahlmeyer (originally based on Caldwell fruit) indicate that the wines are beautifully ageworthy. Zinfandel, such as that from the Moore Vineyard, also possesses a bit more lift than average, though Chardonnay can get quite ripe, depending on the producer.

Notable vineyards: Arcadia, Caldwell, Dead Fred, Haynes, Judge, Meteor, Moore, Palmaz

There are many reasons why an unclaimed area in Napa Valley might persist without a sub-AVA: the area may be unremarkable and therefore undeserving, the growers and producers may be unable to agree on the basic tenets of an appellation, or the growers and producers may not see the value in creating a sub-appellation. Alternatively, as in the instance of Pritchard Hill, the founding family may be camping on the trademark.

Pritchard Hill

A mountain in the Vaca range that sits between Atlas Peak and Howell Mountain, Pritchard Hill features poor volcanic soils, a healthy exposure to the afternoon sun, and a variable amount of moderating influence from the large Lake Hennessey below. It is named for Charles Pritchard, the first man to establish a vineyard on the land mass in the 1880s. His property was acquired in 1967 by the Chappellet family, whose wines brought the region considerable renown. Today, Pritchard Hill is the home to some of Napa’s top names—Colgin, David Arthur, Ovid, Continuum, and Bryant—but though it is widely known that these wineries are on Pritchard Hill, none of them can list the location on their labels. This is because the Chappellet family has held a trademark on the name Pritchard Hill for decades and refuses to relinquish it out of fear that an all-inclusive AVA, as has been the proclivity of the TTB, would dilute the good name of the region. For many years, non-Chappellet brands on Pritchard Hill have simply persisted with the Napa Valley AVA designation, but a recent movement spearheaded by Tim Mondavi has the potential to rally the vintners to give the area a new name. This has the obvious drawback of re-educating a public that is already aware of Pritchard Hill, but the advantage of providing this splashy neighborhood with some cross-marketing opportunities as well as the chance to openly define a regional identity.

Conn Valley

Across Lake Hennessey from Pritchard Hill, Conn Valley reaches up the easternmost slopes of Howell Mountain. The area is quite spread out but features a collection of intriguing brands, such as Seavey, Neyers, BOND’s Melbury Vineyard, Fairchild, and Buehler. Conn Valley has a mountain feel, with most vineyards, including those at lower elevations, located on rocky slopes that appear carved out of the forest. Among producers, there seems to be little interest in banding together to present an application of unity to the TTB.

Deer Park

The large area that falls below Howell Mountain’s 1,400-foot lower limit and above St. Helena’s 400-foot upper limit is unofficially known as Deer Park. This region is similar in many ways to Howell Mountain above it, with the main difference being the occasional fog. A small group of producers is talking about attempting to establish an AVA, though likely with a name other than Deer Park. A handful of disinterested but key producers don’t see the value, however, which has held up negotiations.

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Bibliography

Benson, Robert. Great Winemakers of California. Santa Barbara, CA: Capra Press, 1977.

Bonne, Jon. The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste. Emeryville, CA: Ten Speed Press, 2013.

Mendelson, Richard. Appellation Napa Valley: Building and Protecting an American Treasure. Napa, CA: Val de Grace Books, 2016.

Parker, Robert M. Review of Bryant Family Vineyard 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Pritchard Hill. The Wine Advocate, December 31, 1999

https://www.robertparker.com/wines/wuYyPSHN5XpFEkaaw

Parker, Robert M. Review of Robert Mondavi 1984 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. The Wine Advocate, August 22, 1994.

https://www.robertparker.com/wines/hvJqtZnbDdfRig52o

Pinney, Thomas. A History of Wine in America: From the Beginnings to Prohibition. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1989.

Stevenson, Robert Louis. The Silverado Squatters. New York: Scribner, 1905.

Sullivan, Charles L. Napa Wine: A History from Mission Days to Present. Second Edition. South San Francisco: The Wine Appreciation Guild, 2008.

Sullivan, Charles L. Zinfandel, a History of a Grape and Its Wine. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2003.

Swinchatt, Jonathan, and David G. Howell. The Winemaker's Dance: Exploring Terroir in the Napa Valley. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2004.

Taber, George M. Judgment of Paris: California vs. France and the Historic 1976 Paris Tasting That Revolutionized Wine. New York: Scribner, 2006.

White, Kelli A. Napa Valley, Then & Now. Oakville, CA: Rudd Press, 2015.

 

Compiled by GuildSomm Senior Staff Writer Kelli White (October 2017)