Austria

Austria is small, with barely 0.5% of its land covered in grapevines, but the country has contributed significant innovation and creativity to the wine world, from viticulture to stemware. In its more recent history, Austria’s industry was marked by the 1985 “antifreeze” scandal. Though the practice of sweetening wines with diethylene glycol, or DEG, hardly represented the majority of Austrian winemakers, all were implicated. Impressively, the industry banded together over the following years and developed stricter regulations and practices. Today, Austria has not only redeemed its reputation, but its wine industry is recognized for a proportionately high level of quality and rigorous standards. Pioneers from the last century have paved the way for today’s set of bright winemakers, many of whom are bringing excitement and originality to lesser-touted pockets throughout the country.

History of Austria

Cultivation of Vines

Geographically central, Austria has been a thoroughfare for many civilizations throughout history. The Hallstatt culture of the Late Bronze Age through the early Iron Age (1200–500 BCE), among the earliest of Celtic peoples, was first to significantly settle this area, landing just southeast of what is today Salzburg. Salt mines in the region allowed this group to prosper, producing over a ton of salt per day and supplying over half of Europe. Artifacts discovered here, such as bronze ornaments and sword handles made of African ivory, suggest significant wealth. As the tribe grew and became more sophisticated, a wine culture developed. Art and other remnants dated between 600 and 400 BCE signal more frequent wine consumption and a stratification of society, as the Hallstatt tribes were dominated by the fiercer La Tène Celts.

The first record of wild vines seems to be in the form of a funerary object that was buried at a gravesite around 1600 BCE in Lower Austria. However, the oldest evidence of cultivated vines dates back to approximately 900 BCE. Two small grapevine seeds were discovered in a storage pit covered with cereal grain in Stillfried, northeast of Vienna on the border of modern-day Slovakia. Palaeobotanic analyses of plant fossils indicated these vines were imported, likely via horse trades, and then propagated through scions or layering. Between 900 and 600 BCE, there was clear growth in grapegrowing culture throughout what is now considered Lower Austria, Burgenland, and neighboring Slovakia and Hungary.

Romans were responsible for significantly expanding viticulture from 15 BCE though the fifth century CE. At the turn of the millennium, a surplus of Italian vines was planted in response to the Mount Vesuvius devastation in 79 CE. Emperor Domitian ordered half of the vines outside of Italy to be pulled and prohibited new vineyards. This interrupted Austria’s winemaking industry for nearly 200 years, until Emperor Probus lifted this edict, enabling viticulture to resume its expansion throughout the Roman Empire.

Middle Ages

By the end of the fifth century, the Western Roman Empire had fallen. Austria entered a quiet period in 488 CE, after the Romans abandoned the vineyards. During the Age of Migration, the German, Hunnic, Bavarian, and Slavic tribes moved through this territory. Monasteries were built, and the Bavarians established their prominence (500–900 CE). In an effort to unite all Germanic peoples into one Christian kingdom, Charlemagne, King of the Franks, defeated Bavarian Duke Tassilo III in 788, eliminating Bavarian influence for the next 100 years. He then initiated a long series of battles, overtook nearly all of Bohemia, and finally defeated the Avars in order to capture the territory that is today Austria in 803. Charlemagne played a profound role in reinvigorating Austria’s wine industry. His Capitulare de villis vel curtis imperii, among the first of Europe’s official wine law documents, spelled out requirements for better grapegrowing and winemaking techniques. Grape selection was taken more seriously. Varieties were considered in two categories: the more superior Fränkisch varieties, and those of lower quality, known as Heunisch, a derogatory term directed toward the Huns. 

Control returned to the Bavarians in 976 under the House of Babenberg, which expanded the territory as well as its influence and power over the next centuries. The Babenbergs elevated themselves to the status of duchy by the middle of the 12^th century. During this time, many monasteries populated Krems, Vienna, Styria, and Burgenland. Krems, then the largest town in Wachau, was home to 16 monasteries by the end of the 12^th century. The Cistercians had a tremendous impact on wine quality, bringing grapegrowing and winemaking knowledge from Burgundy. 

Habsburg Era

Shortly after the death of the last ruling Babenberg male, Count Rudolf IV of the House of Habsburg was crowned the Roman-German King and relocated to Vienna, where the Habsburg monarchy would govern until the end of World War I. The Habsburgs’ skillful business and marital tactics allowed for the acquisition of many territories, including Burgundy in 1477, when Mary of Valois, Duchess of Burgundy, married Maximilian I, Archduke of Austria and Holy Roman Emperor, strengthening ties to this important wine region. 

Wine became increasingly central to Austrian culture throughout the Late Middle Ages. In addition to its crucial sacramental role, it was consumed as an alternative to unclean water. Wine was nearly always diluted, and spices and honey were sometimes added for sweetness. More controls were set to limit and even prohibit foreign wine imports in the 13^th century, and wine became a key export product. In 1340, a law passed that banned all Hungarian wine from entering the country, and by the 16^th century, over 150,000 hectares of vines covered the land. In Burgenland, the free city of Rust was also gaining popularity among royals both near and afar for its distinctive Ruster Ausbruch, a sweet botrytized dessert wine that was made in a style similar to Tokaji. 

By the early modern period, fortunes began to turn for Austria’s wine industry. From 1587 onward, a series of unfavorable climate conditions and poor harvests resulted in less wine. Export bans were legally enforced in an effort to secure Austria’s domestic product, and as a result, trade markets collapsed. Wine prices began to rise, not only in response to factors of supply and demand but also as a result of higher taxes. A tax particular to wine, beer, and mead, introduced as the Ungeld in 1359 under Duke Rudolf IV, ramped up considerably around 1556 and then again in 1568 to pay preparatory military debts. High taxes were noted as a major factor for the decline of viticulture in the 17^th century, as the majority of the population turned to more economical choices like beer. Rising taxes would persist through the 19^th century. In 1829, the General Consumption Tax rose to 42.2% on all wine and beer products, and in 1883, the land tax was set at 22.7% of gross yields for vineyards, only to be lowered after the devastation of phylloxera.

The Thirty Years’ War (1618–1648) left villages in ruins. Despite bans to expand vines, grapegrowers worked hard to rebuild and cultivate new vineyards. At the end of the 17^th century, 90% of vineyards were in the hands of peasants. They often rotated grain with grapes, which yielded about the same price at this time when factoring in labor costs. The Weinviertel was the site of a great deal of development during this period, with Grüner Veltliner beginning to demonstrate success. By 1830, the region was home to 67% of the country’s vineyards. 

The 18^th century finally brought some hope, as both the Enlightenment and the Industrial Revolution ushered in new ways of thinking along with more mechanized techniques, which would transform the bottom line for growers. Archduke John of Austria was an important figure for agriculture in this era, particularly for Styria, which had fallen behind the advances of its neighbors in Lower Austria and Burgenland. He took varietal and site selection seriously, leading several experiments to determine what would deliver the best quality, with Sauvignon Blanc among his findings. Agricultural societies were popping up throughout the region, modernizing farming and increasing productivity.

As years passed and the Industrial Revolution advanced, the growing wine industry’s central concern became getting more wine in less time with lower costs. Greater research and experimentation took place, and more mechanized equipment was introduced. The Klosterneuburg monastery established a wine college in 1860 that continues to serve as a principal enology school today. 

The final chapter for the Habsburgs involved their union with Hungary through the Austro-Hungarian Compromise of 1867. The Hapsburgs and Hungarians shared military and conducted foreign affairs as one, but they operated separate local governments. Together, they were among the most powerful forces in Europe at the time. Vineyards overlapped, which would become a matter to settle upon the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire after World War I.

Fall of the Habsburgs, World Wars, & Aftermath

Upon the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand in 1914, Austria-Hungary moved on the Serbians in a battle that would initiate the Great War. Four years and nearly 40 million casualties later, the Habsburg monarchy was defeated, and the Republic of German-Austria was established on November 12, 1918. Vineyards were hardly a focus when drawing the new borders. South Tyrol was annexed to Italy as Alto Adige; 30,000 hectares within Styria fell to the SHS-State (the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes); and Lower Austria lost some of its northern territory to Czechoslovakia. What Austria did inherit were the great vineyards of Burgenland, two nurseries (with 89 varieties), and Rust, which was home to a viticultural school and growing vineyard area. Yet perhaps more significant than physical boundaries, the ideological Iron Curtain was gaining momentum. 

On March 12, 1938, German soldiers annexed Austria for the Third Reich. Austria’s wine industry was a source of much conflict during this time. An effort to Aryanise was underway. Jews were required to register assets, and vineyards were extorted for abominably depressed prices, from which the state officials and non-Jewish farmers benefited.

The Third Reich had an idealized image of the German farm: not too small as to be unsustainable, but not too large as to counter its biased image of Jewish business. The Reich Hereditary Farm Act of 1938 mandated a vineyard size of 7.5 to 125 hectares—nearly impossible for most farmers, as it was common to hold only a few hectares or less. This led to unprecedented restructuring, mergers, and the influx of cooperatives, which grew to 48 by 1938 (3,438 members) and 71 by 1943 (8,958 members).

This was perfect for the National Socialists (Nazis), who wanted to control the wine sector’s production and the race of its participants. Scholar Ernst Langthaler points out that the Reichsnährstand, which oversaw all agricultural production and distribution, attempted to justify this, explaining, “Some provisions may mean that personal rights of disposal are restricted. However, viewed from the higher vantage point of the national economy, these are just as necessary as promoting the well-being of the individual.” The Third Reich also shifted the focus at the well-reputed Klosterneuburg by establishing the Higher School and Experimentation Station of Viticulture and Fruit Production on its grounds. The new institution brought in students mainly from abroad to learn the “correct” way of growing, with limited approved varieties (15 white and 4 red). Efficiency was considered paramount, and the more industrial farming techniques that were emphasized gave larger cooperative wineries an advantage over smaller farmers who had trouble keeping up with the material and labor required for these new approaches. Dr. Fritz Zweigelt, for all that he would contribute to Austria’s wine industry, remains a controversial figure for his questionable alliance with the Nazis during their regime, which resulted in trial for treason after the war.

The end of World War II cracked open new opportunities for Austrian farmers. Lenz Moser, born into a family of winemakers, would come to play a primary role in the improvement of Austrian viticulture, particularly for his introduction of high-stake training. Moser believed that it wasn’t really until the Reich had come to an end that winegrowing in Austria experienced a revolution. Throughout the 1920s, he identified the need for vineyards to adapt to the mechanizations available, not the other way around. He envisioned wider rows at three to four meters apart, lower density planting, and higher training on wires to replace low-grounded stake training. He established his first experimental vineyard in 1924, implementing this Hochkultur, or “high culture,” training method with vines on wires at 1.25 meters.

The coldest winters in over a century took place in 1928 and 1929. Of the 35 grape varieties Moser had planted, 20 froze, with exceptions including Welschriesling, Riesling, and Grüner Veltliner. Over the years, it would be Grüner Veltliner and Zweigelt that Moser would encourage most for Hochkultur training, and today, these are the most planted white and red varieties. Though it took time for growers to convert to Hochkultur training, it became the norm in the 1960s and 1970s. In 1959, 77% of vineyards were still on the old stake system, but by 1980, this had dropped to under 1%. As hectarage under vine expanded from 42,000 in 1970 to over 56,000 by 1983, all vineyards were established with Moser’s high training. Though this is his greatest legacy, Moser was also fascinated by vineyard botany and established some of the first studies in cover crop recommendations in the 1950s.

The 1985 Scandal

Following World War II, the use of fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides had been growing. Machines were doing much of the work in the vineyards, in part due to Moser’s vine training methods. Production boomed. Meanwhile, Germans vacationed in Burgenland and raved about the region’s sweet Prädikat wines. Demand for this style soared through the 1960s and 1970s.

In 1970, a new tax policy no longer mandated cellar inspections, and counterfeit operation developed unchecked. A study commission by the local Institute of Agricultural Economics vastly underestimated consumption, encouraging overproduction and causing grape prices to plummet. Demand for sweet wine, however, wasn’t impacted. Rather, it increased dramatically, and as pressure to produce more for export grew, quality was compromised. From 1970 to 1983, vineyard area climbed from 43,000 to 56,000 hectares. A string of poor vintages in the late 1970s and early 1980s added anxiety to the equation, as winemakers sought to correct underripe, thin wines with something that could go undetected and also contribute body and texture to their wines. They identified diethylene glycol, or DEG, which easily mixes with liquids like alcohol and water and is a component in brake fluid, lubricants, skin care products, and, most famously, antifreeze. DEG has a sweet taste, adding to and obscuring sugar additions, and was hard to detect—mainly because no one thought to test for it. 

On January 28, 1985, investigators confirmed the presence of DEG in Austrian wines. The news broke on April 23, 1985, and export markets dried up almost immediately. This was particularly significant for Germans, who had previously accounted for nearly 90% of Burgenland’s exports.

The supposed ringleader chemist, Otto Nadrasky, admitted that this practice began in 1978. He and chemists at other laboratories had determined the amount of DEG that could be added at safe levels—and it is true that no one was harmed, let alone killed, by consuming these beverages. A lethal dose of DEG is thought to be about 40 grams per liter, and most wines saw only a fraction of a gram to a few grams per liter. Winemakers sought, unsuccessfully, to justify their methods by explaining that a person would almost certainly die of alcohol poisoning before DEG.

Though the scandal involved sweet wine and primarily incriminated just a few large producers, all of Austria suffered, and it would take 15 years for its exports to rebound. Despite the adverse economic implications that followed, this scandal provided the industry with an opportunity for change. Winemakers quickly set out to improve their image by establishing some of the strictest regulations in Europe through the Austrian Wine Act of 1986. New requirements included cellar inspections, detailed recordings of quantities from vineyard to bottle, yield restrictions for higher-quality fruit, and the establishment of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB). Meanwhile, a marketing effort worked to restore the nation’s reputation. Winemakers, including key players Alois Kracher and Willi Opitz, tirelessly showed their wines during this time to convince consumers of their quality.

EU Accession & Today

Before Austria could join the EU, a number of reforms needed to take place. In the early 1990s, the Ministry of Agriculture hired an outside business consultancy to evaluate Austria’s wine industry and identify areas for improvement. A thorough assessment pointed to structural shortcomings, inadequate marketing, and financial concerns around tax structure and overall industry resources. Austria responded with continued efforts from a recently established wine consultancy network, outlets for grape surplus, and abolishing taxes for non-sparkling wine.

Joining the EU had many benefits for Austria’s wine industry. Integration was relatively smooth, as Austria’s wine law was not too dissimilar from that of the EU. Exports were simplified, monetary assistance became available for bulk shipping outside the country, programs were established to improve grapegrowing and winemaking methods, and financial incentives encouraged organic viticulture. Today, the central government and local federal states help pay insurance premiums for unseen vineyard challenges.

Austrian Wine in Context

Austria produced 2.75 million hectoliters of wine in 2018, a mere 1% of global production, placing it 17^th in the world for overall volume. Still, over 90% of wine in 2018 was classified as Qualitätswein or Prädikatswein, reflecting Austria’s ongoing focus on quality. In 2015, vines covered over 45,000 hectares of land, a 22% decrease since 1987, when there was an extreme surplus. White grapes reign supreme, with over 67% of the plantings, despite a slight surge of reds in the early 2000s. In 1987, there were 45,380 growers, averaging 1.28 hectares per producer, which has dropped to about 14,111 growers today, with about 3.22 hectares per grower. Though this indicates growth in the larger wineries and consolidation, Austria still boasts many small, boutique wineries. 

Austrian wine holds 90% of the domestic market share, up 6% since 2003. The average bottle price is €5.21, increased from €4.28 in 2012. In Austria, over half of the local wine is sold on-premise and at trade events, while 39% is consumed at home. Supermarkets have become important partners for the industry, and less wine is being purchased directly from wineries. The remaining Austrian wine consumed within the country is attributed to tourists.

Though small compared to other wine regions, Austria enjoys a successful and growing export market. Its wines are exported to 102 countries, nearly double the number served in 2009, in part thanks to the AWMB’s strategy to create more resilience to fluctuations from individual markets. In 2019, Austrian winemakers exported a record-breaking 640,000 hectoliters of wine (about 7.1 million cases), a huge comeback after losing four-fifths of their export market after the 1985 scandal. Germans still claim about half of this, but considerable growth comes from the United States, in part due to importers like Terry Theise and Circo Vino, who have championed these wines. In 2000, about 145,000 hectoliters were bottled for export; 214,000 hectoliters went out in bulk. By 2018, this situation dramatically reversed: 460,000 hectoliters were bottled, and the remaining 60,000 hectoliters were sold in bulk.

Land & Climate

The Land

Austria is a landlocked country nestled in the heart of south-central Europe—an ideal situation for trade throughout history. It shares borders with seven other countries: Switzerland (and Liechtenstein) on its western edge, the Czech Republic to the north, Slovakia to the northeast, Hungary to the east, and Slovenia to the south. Germany and Italy, to its north and south, respectively, pinch Austria where it narrows most. At its widest, the country measures only 275 kilometers from north to south; most of Austria fits between the 47^th and 48^th parallels.

Austria contains nine federal states. Together, Lower Austria (Niederösterreich in German), Burgenland, and Vienna (Wien) compose one large winemaking region known as Weinland. A second region, Steirerland, includes the federal state of Styria (Steiermark). Weinland and Steirerland collectively contain 17 of Austria’s 18 winemaking regions. The final growing area is Bergland, which comprises vineyards found in the five remaining federal states: Carinthia (Kärnten), Upper Austria (Oberösterreich), Tyrol (Tirol), Vorarlberg, and Salzburg. While these states don’t have any DACs, they have a long winemaking tradition and are beginning to experience a kind of renaissance. 

Mountains dominate nearly two-thirds of Austria’s landscape. Extending from the west, the Alps continue eastward and fade into the Pannonian Plain. Here, they descend into eastern Austria to surface again as the Carpathian Mountain Range, hugging Hungary’s eastern border and forming a crescent shape through Slovakia, Czech Republic, Poland, Ukraine, and finally Romania. The northern massif hills of the Bohemian Forest form a natural border with the Czech Republic and contain the oldest rock formations in Austria, dating back over 500 million years. Together, these geological features are responsible for some of the most diverse soils in all of Central Europe. Granite and sedimentary silty windblown loess characterize the soils of Lower Austria that are most often discussed, but millennia of tectonic and glacial activity produced a complex range of types and sizes, including schistose paragneiss, amphibolite, and granulite soils. Many of Burgenland’s soils are informed by Danubian deposits of calcareous sandy gravels. There are also pockets of silty loam and non-calcareous clays throughout Central Burgenland, while Leithaberg is home to a unique limestone composed of sea fossils as well as schist and gneiss. The Styria Basin forms the patchwork of soils in the south, influenced by several distinct mountain ranges. It includes silt, marl, sand, gravel, sandstone, conglomerates, gneiss, amphibolite, and limestone, with a small amount of volcanic basalts. 

Though Austria borders no oceans, water plays an important role. The Danube is the second longest river in Europe, running for nearly 3,000 kilometers. Beginning at the confluence of the Brigach and Breg Rivers in Germany’s Black Forest, it moves southeast through 10 countries, including the upper northeast quarter of Austria, eventually draining into the Black Sea. The Danube has been economically important for Austria as a key European trade route; it is also a crucial moderating influence in an otherwise severely continental climate. Its impact is reflected in comparison of the lush, concentrated wines of the eastern Wachau, where the Danube begins flowing east through the Lower Austrian wine regions, to the acidic, laser-focused, and chiseled wines from Spitz in western Wachau. Lake Constance sits on the German-Swiss border in the west, and Lake Neusiedl (Neusiedlersee) borders Hungary in the east. The latter is key to Burgenland’s sweet dessert wines. A shallow, marsh-like lake, Neusiedl and several dozen surrounding small lakes raise the overall humidity of Burgenland, allowing grape bunches to achieve noble botrytis during the warm, misty autumn mornings. 

The Climate

Austria’s winegrowing regions generally experience a continental climate, with warm-to-hot summers and cold winters. On average, winters tend to get as cold as -10 to -12 degrees Celsius (10 to 14 degrees Fahrenheit), with summers as warm as 32 to 34 degrees Celsius (89 to 93 degrees Fahrenheit). Supporting the country’s focus on white grapes, most of the grapegrowing regions experience over 2,000 hours of sunshine; the Danubian region in Lower Austria has just over 1,800 on average.

Lower Austria, the Pannonian Plain, and Styria, however, don’t neatly fit into these generalizations, as they are further impacted by various mesoclimates. In addition to the Danube River’s warming effect on its nearby wine regions, Lower Austria experiences considerable shifts in temperature during the growing season. This is particularly true near harvest, when warm winds come in from the Pannonian Plain in the east across Wagram, settling into the valleys by day, followed by cooler winds from the northern forests at night. These shifts yield fresh yet opulent wine styles. Burgenland is significantly affected by the warm Pannonian climate. The growing season can get quite hot, allowing for robust red wines. Uniquely, Styria has a Mediterranean influence from the Adriatic in the south, causing longer, warmer days than experienced by its northern counterparts. The nights, though, feel more alpine and cool in the steeply planted vineyards.

Lower Austria is the driest region, with roughly 450 to 550 millimeters of rainfall per year. Irrigation is necessary most years to consistently maintain high quality. Further east, in Vienna, the average is closer to 700 millimeters annually, while Burgenland has about 600 millimeters and Styria nearly 900. Bergland, which comprises the western regions of the Alps, experiences an Atlantic influence, with twice as much rain as in Lower Austria. Though production is minuscule, a handful of Bergland’s regions have warm pockets that allow for grapegrowing.

Austrian Wine Law

Guidelines for quality winemaking in Austria stretch as far back as the Romans, but it was not until 1907 that formalized wine law was put into place, largely to prevent the creation of artificial wine in the period following the devastation of phylloxera. Other laws were established in the 20^th century, such as one in 1936 under the First Republic forbidding new vineyards and hybrid vines. But it wasn’t until 1985, when the DEG scandal produced a watershed moment for the Austrian winemaking industry, that more stringent measures were codified.

Until this point, Austrians had adopted a German classification based largely on must levels. This is still seen today, particularly with the Prädikatswein classification from Spätlese to Trockenbeerenauslese, where the Klosterneuburg Must Weight Scale (KMW) is a measurement of 1 gram of sugar per 100 grams of grape must (1 degree KMW is approximately 5 degrees Oechsle). However, in response to the scandal and a global shift in preference toward drier styles, regions began to focus more on dry white and red wines that valued origin over sweetness levels. Regional associations started to form and work closely with the newly established AWMB (Austrian Wine Marketing Board) to bring Austrian wine back to the forefront. Accession into the EU in 1995 ensured EU wine law adoption as a starting point, but the goal was a quality-focused, appellation-based system unique to Austria. By 2001, an amendment was proposed to establish regionally typical wines under a system called Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) that was much like the French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system. It was approved in 2002, with Weinviertel named the first DAC region in 2003. Austria has 18 DACs, with 15 throughout Weinland, and 3 in Steirerland.

Austrian wine law identifies three levels of quality: Wein, Landwein, and Qualitätswein. In 2018, Wein and Landwein only accounted for about 6.5% of Austria’s overall production. In line with EU regulations, Wein is without a geographical indication, replacing the former use of Tafelwein. Wein is divided into two categories: Wein, which can include grapes from anywhere in the EU, and Österreich (the German name for Austria, also labeled as österreichischer Wein), which must be sourced from Austria only. Wein may state vintage and variety if the wine adheres to national yield levels and includes grapes that are not associated with a DAC but do fall into the greater permissible Qualitätswein varieties.

Landwein is equivalent to the EU’s Protected Geographical Indication (PGI). These wines must be produced from grape varieties that are approved for Qualitätswein, and 100% of the grapes must come solely from one of the three winegrowing areas: Weinland, Steirerland, or Bergland. These wines must exhibit traits that are representative of the area.

Qualitätswein, which makes up 84% of production, corresponds with the EU’s Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). To qualify, grapes must be harvested in a single winegrowing region and produced in a facility within or bordering that region. There are 40 approved varieties, and wines must show typicity of region, meet the minimum must weight requirement of 15 degrees KMW, adhere to maximum yields of 75 hectoliters per hectare, and have a minimum 9% ABV (5% for Prädikatswein). Qualitätswein must be inspected and approved by a government tasting official and given a Federal Inspection Number. This number, along with the banderole capsule, verifies strict measures of quality. 

There are four overarching designations that can be labeled as Qualitätswein: Kabinett, DAC wines, Prädikatswein (which has its own style categories), and Sekt Austria g.U. All build upon the basic rules laid out for Qualitätswein. For example, a Kabinett wine can be labeled as such if it has not been chaptalized, achieves a must weight of 17 degrees KMW or above, has a potential alcohol maximum of 13%, and unfermented sugars do not exceed nine grams per liter of residual sugar. DACs must adhere to the rules established by the protected region, which typically reflect stricter guidelines for viticulture, accepted grapes, winemaking, and labels.

The DAC system was meant to simplify the consumer’s understanding of a region by limiting grapes and styles to those that epitomize the location and reinforce its character. The two most significant styles are klassik and reserve. The former is an unofficial term that refers to dry, unchaptalized, medium-bodied styles that are often crisp, fruity, unoaked, and moderate in alcohol. Conversely, the latter is an official term given to fuller styles; it requires higher must weight and minimum alcohol (13%). DAC Reserve wines often exhibit more extract on the palate and frequently experience oak aging.

Prädikatswein is a category of Qualitätswein defined by must weight at harvest and has the most overlap with its German heritage. (However, unlike in Germany, Kabinett does not qualify as Prädikatswein in Austria but instead as Qualitätswein.) Final sweetness can only be achieved through an interrupted fermentation; chaptalization and the addition of unfermented grape must are forbidden. A certificate, or mostwägerbescheiningung, is required to verify the grapes’ quality. For Spätlese and Auslese, wines cannot be submitted to the tasting commission until January 1 following harvest. For all other styles (Beerenauslese, Eiswein, Strohwein, Schilfwein, and Trockenbeerenauslese), wines can be submitted beginning April 1 after harvest. 

Austrian Sekt

Austrian sparkling wine can be traced back to 1842, when Robert Alwin Schlumberger came to Vienna after working as Ruinart’s cellar master and head of production. His expertise at one of the finest Champagne houses of the era gave him confidence in Austria’s potential—and particularly in Vöslau, just south of Vienna. In chalky white soils that reminded him of France, he began to plant vines in 1844. By 1859, the first Austrian sparkling wine brand was born. Called Goldeck, it was named after the Goldeggen Vineyard and remains one of the largest sparkling wine brands in Austria, today owned by the Schlumberger Wine and Sekt Company. Other formative figures behind the rise of sparkling wine production in Austria were Johann Kattus, who launched the Hochriegl brand in 1890, and Karl Inführ, who introduced the Charmat method in 1949.

Only a handful of large companies were permitted to manufacture base wines and set the price for sparkling wine. By 1976, the argument over estate production of sparkling wine became a great debate, headed largely by grower and vintner Gerald Malat in Krems, who felt wineries should be allowed to use their own grapes for base wine . Permission was granted, and sparkling wine producers rose in number. Use of the term hauersekt, meaning “grower’s sparkling wine,” on the label indicates that a wine was made with fruit that was estate grown and produced.

In 2013, the Austrian Sekt Committee formed to enhance the image of Sekt and work for more organization to differentiate high-quality sparkling. It proposed a plan that, with the assistance of other groups such as the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, was approved by the National Committee in 2015 and made law in 2016. Under this law, Austrian Sekt could apply for PDO g.U. designation. In 2022, three distinct Sekt Austria PDOs representing different quality levels were established: Sekt Austria g.U., Sekt Austria Reserve g.U., and Sekt Austria Grosse Reserve g.U.

All PDO wines must be made from the 40 permitted varieties for Qualitätswein and pass a sensory panel test that indicates they are free of defect. Sekt Austria PDO wines are derived from grapes that come from one federal state but can be vinified anywhere in Austria. Grapes for Sekt Austria Reserve wines must be grown and pressed in a single Austrian federal state (commune may appear on the label, but no vineyard designation is permitted). Sekt Austria Grosse Reserve grapes must be harvested and pressed within one municipality (if registered, a single vineyard is permitted on the label). 

Austrian Sekt

• No PDO
• Produced from the 40 grape varieties permissible for Qualitätswein
• “Austrian Sekt” allowed on label if grapes or base wine comes from Austria
• “Produced in Austria” allowed on label if production takes place in Austria 

Sekt Austria PDO g.U.

• All sparkling methods, dosage levels, styles, and colors permitted
• Minimum nine months on the lees for traditional method or six months in the case of tank method
• Grapes must be harvested within a single state

Sekt Austria Reserve PDO g.U.

• Hand-harvested and whole-cluster pressed
• Grapes must be grown and pressed within a single state that must appear on the label
• Only traditional method
• Minimum 18 months on the lees
• Maximum Press Yield of 60% 
• Village source may be stated on the label
• Maximum dosage 12 g/l

Sekt Austria Grosse Reserve PDO g.U.

• Hand-harvested and whole-cluster pressed
• Grapes must be grown and pressed within a single village that must appear on the label
• Same methods, dosage levels permitted as for Reserve
• Minimum 36 months on the lees
• Vineyard source allowed on the label
• Maximum Press Yield of 50%

Sparkling wine represents about 5% of Austria’s production. Grüner Veltliner and Welschriesling are the preferred varieties, but Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir are also utilized. Nearly 75% of the fruit is grown in Lower Austria, particularly the northern part of the Weinviertel, and Vienna, with just under 20% from Burgenland. Over half of production takes place in Vienna. Though many winemakers have small sparkling wine projects, about 25 wineries form the core of this industry. Major producers include Hugl Weine, Weingut Steininger, Weingut Bründlmayer, Weingut Schloss Gobelsburg, and Weingut Stift Klosterneuburg (the abbey’s estate production). Domestic Sekt generates €55 million in value for Austria, employing 1,300 workers, sustaining 114 businesses, and sourcing grapes from 3,000 vintners.

The Grapes of Austria

Through Europe’s long history of grapegrowing, superior varieties (known as Fränkisch) emerged, as well as those valued for their fertility and high yields but not their quality (Heunisch). Crossings took advantage of the traits of both groups, resulting in widely appreciated international grapes like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Riesling. Monks introduced these varieties to Austria, and indigenous grapes were also produced from such crossings, including Grüner Veltliner, Blaufränkisch, and St. Laurent. The historic practice of growing and pressing numerous grapes together in Gemischter Satz (mixed set) field blends undoubtedly contributed to Austria’s many crossings. As a result of phylloxera as well as powdery and downy mildew, cross-cultivation of vines also became a widely adopted and prioritized science in the early 20^th century, leading to new varieties like Zweigelt and Blauburger.

White Grapes

Grüner Veltliner: Grüner Veltliner is the most widely planted variety in Austria, accounting for nearly a third of vineyards. Though documentation traces its existence to the 18^th century, it was not until 1855 that Grüner Veltliner was first recorded by name, and it didn’t become popular until the 1960s and 1970s, when Moser introduced the Hochkultur training system. Trained high, Grüner Veltliner provided ample yields during an era when output was crucial. Like many of Austria’s varieties, Grüner Veltliner is indigenous to the country. It is not, however, related to the Veltliner family, as the name might imply. As it looks nearly identical to Blauer Veltliner, it was only with the advent of DNA diagnostics that it became clear the two are not related. Traminer (Savagnin) is one of Grüner Veltliner’s parents, and the other is likely St. Georgen, from Eisenstadt in Burgenland.

A thirsty grape, Grüner Veltliner finds nourishment in the deep, water-retaining loess soils of Lower Austria, where almost 90% is planted, and in some parts of Burgenland. It is a mid-ripening variety that wouldn’t fare well much further north. In Lower Austria, it benefits from the moderating influence of the Danube, which draws in heat from the Pannonian Plain. 

Grüner Veltliner’s small greenish-yellow berries, for which it was named, offer flavors that range from citrus and stone fruit to more exotic spicy notes. Rotundone, referred to locally as pfefferl, is the distinctive white pepper aroma associated with this grape. Due to its thick skins, winemakers must be careful not to over-extract in order to avoid producing overly spicy or phenolic wines. 

Depending on where it is grown and how it is handled in the winery, Grüner Veltliner offers varied expressions. Even as a dry wine, Grüner Veltliner can range from more whimsical, light styles of Weinviertel to intense, phenolic examples from top rieden, or single vineyards, in Wachau. Both stainless steel and neutral barrels are employed for fermentation and aging. Grüner Veltliner rarely goes through malolactic fermentation but does have an affinity for lees aging to achieve more texture. Thanks to its loose bunches, Grüner Veltliner can be ideal for Eiswein production in Burgenland as well.

14,548 hectares in 2022
47.8% of white varieties planted (32.5% overall)

Welschriesling: Welschriesling can be found in warm, nutrient-rich sites throughout Austria and offers a variety of styles. In the Weinviertel, Welschriesling delivers neutral base wines for the production of Sekt; in Burgenland, it is used for some of the most reputable dessert styles. In Styria, Welschriesling is the favorite for casual dry wines at the local taverns. A late-budding, late-ripening variety, Welschriesling can withstand cold temperatures. It is generally a very vigorous grape, but results prove intriguing when yields are controlled. At their simplest, Welschriesling wines are dry and unoaked, with spritely acid, green apple flavors, and diminished length. With extended ripening and in the right conditions for botrytis development, Welschriesling can display intense tropical fruit and honeyed organoleptic notes.

3,883 acres in 2022
9.4% of white varieties planted (6.4% overall)

Riesling (Weisser Riesling, Rheinriesling): While it only comprises a small portion of Austria’s vineyards, Riesling is undoubtedly one of the country’s highest-quality performers. Riesling has an ancient past, mentioned in numerous historic texts under a wide variety of synonyms. It is part of a larger family of grapes that has a parent-offspring relationship with Gouais Blanc (Gamay and Chardonnay are among its relations). Most Riesling is planted throughout Lower Austria. While there are some noteworthy vineyards in the Weinviertel, the most consistently complex expressions come from the north bank of the Danube, home to steep, south-facing slopes with deep primary granite soils that facilitate warmth for this later-ripening, cold hardy variety. 

The best Austrian Rieslings are often dry, higher in alcohol, textured, broad, and even spicy, with a petrichor note. Vinification and aging tend to take place in stainless steel and/or neutral barrels. These wines can be almost creamy but with electric acidity. Examples from regions like the Wachau can sometimes be confused for Grüner Veltliner. 

2,040 hectares in 2022
6.7% of white varieties planted (4.6% overall)

Weissburgunder (Klevner, Pinot Blanc): Weissburgunder, a Pinot Noir mutation, is part of the prolific Gouais Blanc family and was misidentified as its genetic relative Chardonnay until 1868. Early to bud and ripen, Weissburgunder is cold hardy but needs optimal conditions—warm soil, ample nutrients, and lower disease pressure—to achieve high quality. It is often used as a blending partner. Alone, Weissburgunder can take on very fleshy, full-bodied expressions that have an almond-like finish with diminished acidity, which is sometimes related to vinification in small barriques and undergoing malolactic fermentation.

1,872 hectares in 2022
6.1% of white varieties planted (4.2% overall) 

Müller-Thurgau: Müller-Thurgau was created by Hermann Müller in 1882 at the Geisenheim Research Institute in the Rheingau. His original intent was to cross Riesling with Sylvaner for the latter’s early-ripening tendencies. Recent DNA studies have revealed, however, that Müller-Thurgau has no relation to Sylvaner. Rather, it is a cross between Riesling and Chasselas de Courtillier (Madeleine Royale). Associated with mass production due to its yields, which can be as high as 150 hectoliters per hectare, Müller-Thurgau was a very important grape after World War II, reaching its apex in the 1970s. In recent decades, though, it has lost ground. With rather soft wood, it is less hardy through winter, and its early ripening has become a disadvantage for growers in light of climate change. Further, it has a propensity to disease, including Roter Brenner and peronospora. 

Nearly two-thirds of Austria’s Müller-Thurgau comes from Lower Austria, and while some later-harvest Prädikat examples can offer high-quality dessert styles, these tend to have softer acidity and lower alcohol, with very little character and complexity overall. 

1,272 hectares in 2022
4.2% of white varieties planted (2.9% overall)

Chardonnay (Morillon): Chardonnay, also the offspring of Gouais Blanc and Pinot Noir, can be found throughout Austria, though it arguably finds its most compelling expressions in Styria, where it is known as Morillon. A diverse array of soils exists in Styria, including limestone, with which Chardonnay has proven success. In the same way, the limestone hills of Leithaberg in Burgenland produce more intense, Burgundian expressions.

Early to bud and ripen, Chardonnay is easy to grow, despite its susceptibility to botrytis bunch rot and powdery mildew. Managed yields and careful winemaking allow this grape to achieve greater heights. Styles in Austria range from fruity, unoaked international expressions that forgo malolactic fermentation to more serious, barrel-aged renditions that display almost Meursault-like creaminess and decadence on the palate. Chardonnay is also used in TBA blends, such as Weinlaubenhof Kracher’s #6 Grande Cuvée Nouvelle Vague.

1,934 hectares in 2022
6.3% of white varieties planted (4.2% overall)

Sauvignon Blanc: Sauvignon Blanc was introduced to Austria in the late 19^th century, then known as Muscat-Sylvaner. It was finally promoted as Sauvignon Blanc in the 1980s, which helped raise its profile in the global marketplace. Sauvignon Blanc is likely a crossing of Traminer and Chenin Blanc, and thus of some relation to Grüner Veltliner. Though it is found throughout Austria, Styria is its most celebrated region, where it is the most planted variety. Here, leading wineries have experimented with style and sites in search of a unique expression.

Sauvignon Blanc can be quite vigorous, showing its signature herbaceous methoxypyrazine character if care is not taken to manage the canopy. It is a mid-ripening variety with small, compact bunches that are susceptible to botrytis bunch rot, peronospora, and powdery mildew, demanding vigilance in the vineyard if striving for excellence. Two styles have emerged in the past 30 years: klassik and lagen. Unoaked, zippy klassik versions are grassy and youthful, with a mouthwatering acidity. Lagen (site-specific) wines are more ageworthy and often experience barrel aging as well as partial or full malolactic fermentation. Lagen wines offer more texture and nuanced aromatics. 

1,170 hectares in 2022
5.5% of white varieties planted (3.8% overall) 

Other Varieties: Additional white grapes in Austria include Rotgipfler, Sämling 88 (Scheurebe), Neuburger, Traminer, and Muskateller (Gelber Muskateller, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains). 

3,637 hectares in 2022
12% of white varieties planted (8.3% overall) 

Red Grapes

Zweigelt: Zweigelt is a crossing of Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent produced by Fritz Zweigelt at the research center at Klosterneuburg in 1922 and originally called Rotburger. Planted throughout Austria, it is largely found in Lower Austria, where it has gained popularity for its adaptability to Moser’s high training. By the 1980s, Zweigelt was the most common red in Austria. It yields well, withstands many common disease pressures, and presents bright fruit. Even simple, unoaked klassik styles are charming. Informed by red fruit characteristics, these wines can achieve more complex expressions in lower-yield examples, where some darker black cherry notes can develop and compliment oak-derived spice on the finish. The greatest risks with Zweigelt are excessive yields and berry shrivel or wilting (traubenwelke), which can be avoided through extensive leaf pulling for vine balance and overall vine nutrition. 

6,129 hectares in 2022
46.1% of red varieties planted (13.7% overall)

Blaufränkisch: An autochthonous variety, Blaufränkisch is a crossing of Gouais Blanc with Zimmettraube. While its exact origins are still unclear, it appeared under this name at a grape exposition in Vienna in 1862. Fränkisch is a term for high-quality grapes that dates back to the Middle Ages, implying that this grape has possibly existed much longer than that. Early to bud and late to ripen, Blaufränkisch needs warm sites and soils to reach its fullest potential. It thrives in Burgenland, the warmest region in Austria, where all but 150 hectares are planted. 

Blaufränkisch varies in its expressions, as Burgenland offers a plethora of mesoclimates and soils. Some of the most complex, site-specific examples arguably come from the limestone and schist hills of the Leithaberg DAC. In more recent years, the Eisenberg DAC has been offering equally impressive examples, where leaner, mineral-driven expressions are attributed to the iron-rich soils. Still, in Mittelburgenland DAC, producers such as Velich, Weninger, and Moric have shown that their Blaufränkisch can rival the best in the market. The simplest klassik styles of Blaufränkisch show bright blue fruit and moderate tannins with refreshing acid. More complex reserve renditions often see barrel aging (from neutral to some new) and can demonstrate concentrated black fruit, notes of cassis and licorice, and prolonged spice on the finish. 

2,597 hectares in 2022
19.5% of red varieties planted (5.8% overall)

Blauer Portugieser: It has long been believed that Blauer Portugieser came to Austria from Portugal. Not all scholars support this, however, even with clear documentation of Baron von Fries, an Austrian ambassador, bringing it from Porto to Bad Vöslau in 1772. This disagreement is in part because DNA identification seems to trace Blauer Portugieser to a crossing of Sylvaner and the Friulian Sbulzina, derived from an even older grape, Blauer Gänsfüsser, which has Austrian origins. Wine Grapes, for example, asserts that Blauer Portugieser is actually of Austrian origin and that its genetic twin Português Azul might actually be a translation of Blauer Portugieser—not the other way around as many texts indicate. 

Nearly all Blauer Portugieser can be found in Lower Austria, with the vast majority in the Weinviertel. As with many varieties once valued for their high yields, Blauer Portugieser is quickly declining in plantings and overall importance. While low yields can bring more concentration and appeal, most examples are grown in volume and yield lighter-colored reds that are low in acidity and personality.

483 hectares in 2022
3.7% of red grape varieties planted (1.1% overall)

Blauburger: Blauburger is a crossing of Blauer Portugieser and Blaufränkisch created in 1923 by Fritz Zweigelt, who was seeking an early- to mid-ripening red variety that could fare well in areas better suited to white grapes. It is seldom seen alone, as it offers little in the way of acid or tannin. Rather, it is valued for its deep color as a blending grape. Most Blauburger is found in the Weinviertel, with a few plantings speckled throughout Lower Austria and a small amount in Burgenland. 

459 hectares in 2022
3.3%% of red varieties planted (1% overall)

St. Laurent (Sankt Laurent): St. Laurent currently has no verifiable parents, though it seems that one has genetic proximity to the Pinot family. St. Laurent was reintroduced to Austria in the 19^th century by the Baumann brothers, who ran a tree nursery in Bollwiller. A finicky grape, it is rarely a first choice for growers. Susceptible to early-season flower drop and coulure as well as botrytis bunch rot and downy mildew, it must be grown in dry, warm regions with good drainage. If soils are extremely nutrient rich, excessive vigor focuses too much energy into the shoots. St. Laurent does well, however, in the free-draining warm soils of the Thermenregion, and Northern Burgenland is another haven. St. Laurent’s naturally high pH levels can also be an issue for winemakers, who must take precautions to avoid undesirable Brettanomyces. Despite this, St. Laurent retains acidity even after malolactic fermentation and has moderate sugars and alcohol. It has great potential for quality and has been compared to red Burgundy for its elegance, red fruit profile, and tertiary woodsy traits.

596 hectares in 2022
4.3% of red varieties planted (1.3% overall)

Other Varieties: Austria’s other red grapes include Merlot, Blauburgunder, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Blauer Wildbacher. 

3,061 hectares in 2022
23% of red varieties planted (7% overall)

Lower Austria

Lower Austria (Niederösterreich), Austria’s largest federal state, is in the northeast portion of the country. It is home to over 28,000 hectares of vines and responsible for over half of Austria’s total wine production. There are eight distinct regions: Wachau, Kremstal, Kamptal, Wagram, Weinviertel, Thermenregion, Traisental, and Carnuntum. All are recognized DACs. Within this large state, there are three climatic areas. One is centered in the north around Weinviertel, a region vast enough at 100 kilometers across that it could be further broken down into a range of microclimates. A distinct climate also defines the regions west of Vienna along the Danube (Wachau, Kremstal, Kamptal, Traisental, and Wagram), which are greatly influenced by the river as well as the cool winds from the northern forests and the warm Pannonian Plain to the east. The final climatic area is southeast of Vienna (Carnuntum and Thermenregion), a territory more directly impacted by heat from the plain. 

It is difficult to generalize the complex soils of Lower Austria. Broadly speaking, there are two types: loess and granite. Deep, chalky masses of wind-swept calcareous-dolomitic loess make up over half of the vineyards in Lower Austria. These mineral-laden soils, blown in from the Alps, provide ample water retention, which is crucial for Grüner Veltliner. Granite deposits, dating back to the Neogene period (23 million to 2.6 million years ago), come from the Molasse Basin and consist of thin soils over primary rock (called urgestein and derived from the Bohemian Massif). Granite is found in the higher vineyards along the Danube—a prime area for the region’s best Riesling. A third kind of soil is created from weathered metamorphic rocks, such as  slate, schistic paragneiss, and amphibolite. 

Grüner Veltliner makes up nearly half of plantings in Lower Austria. Still, many other grapes are grown here, most significantly in terms of hectarage Zweigelt (12.5%), Riesling (6.1%), Welschriesling (4.7%), and Müller-Thurgau (4.4%). There are also various local varieties such as Blauburger, Blauer Portugieser, Scheurebe, and Rotgipfler, as well as a number of French grapes including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Weissburgunder, and Pinot Noir.

For many, it is the Wachau's prominent producers and iconic vineyards that come to mind at mention of Austrian wine. The overall quality of these wines is unparalleled, setting the bar for what Grüner Veltliner and Riesling can achieve. This westernmost region of Lower Austria has long enjoyed accolades for its wine, with recognition for its distinctive qualities as early as 830 CE, when it began its golden age under Carolingian rule. 

Archaeological evidence traces the origins of Austrian winemaking to the Wachau. Monks fastidiously documented observations about the region’s soils, mesoclimates, and grapes. When secularization took place in 1790, vineyards were turned over to private landowners, and holdings became more fragmented over time. Because the small parcels were difficult to monetize, in the 1930s, Coop Dürnstein (now Domäne Wachau) was formed. This cooperative has remained central to the region and now claims a third of its vineyard land and over 250 of its growers. Only in more recent years have grapes replaced orchard fruit as the primary crop, as prices for the latter plummeted in the 1950s. 

The Wachau extends for roughly 32 kilometers between the Benedictine monasteries of Melk and Göttweig in Krems. Its viticultural area is smaller, stretching about 20 kilometers from the western village of Spitz to Mautern in the east. The region’s boundaries have shifted significantly over time. For centuries  , the Wachau referred only to the area from Spitz to Weissenkirchen; Dürnstein, Loiben, and Mautern were added later. Even into the 1960s, there was little delineation of Danubian winegrowing regions in general. Many were centered around towns and named accordingly. This became problematic from a marketing standpoint, and heated debates rose about how to divide. Some went so far as to argue for splitting the Wachau into two regions, using the Danube as the partition between north and south, with all winemaking villages to the north referred to as Wachau. Others, like Franz Hirtzberger Sr., reasoned that neighboring vineyards in Stein, Krems, and Senftenberg should be included as part of the Wachau for their environmental similarities. This suggestion  caused much discontent among vignerons in the rest of Kremstal as well as Kamptal and Traisental, eventually leading to the boundaries as they are today.

Wachau is a relatively recent addition to the DAC system. As with other DACs that joined since 2018, the Wachau introduced a three-tier hierarchical system for its wines. All grapes, regardless of level, must be hand-harvested. At the base of the system are regional wines called Gebietsweine. These are the most inclusive, allowing 17 grapes including Gemischter Satz blends; they can be presented as monovarietal wines or blends and often represent a youthful, crisp style. The mid-tier, called Ortswein, must be produced in a recognized village (there are 23), with a more focused selection of permissible grapes including Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Weissburgunder, Neuburger, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Muskateller, and Traminer. The top wines are known as Riedenwein, or single-vineyard wines, and can only be made from Grüner Veltliner and Riesling grown in 1 of 157 exceptional named vineyards. Though more complex and sometimes reflective of botrytis character, Ortswein and Riedenwein are not to have any noticeable aromatic oak influence. Wachau producers may also still adhere to the rules set by the Vinea Wachau, a regional protection association formed in 1983, and classify their wines using the stylistic categories of Steinfeder, Federspiel, and Smaragd in addition to, or instead of, applying DAC on the label. Where Vinea Wachau necessarily implies dry styles, with specific minimum alcohol and must weight parameters, DAC is less defined. With so many permitted varieties, there is potential for confusion with DAC labeling, making a strong case for Vinea Wachau’s relevance despite this new schematic.

The Wachau has roughly 1,350 hectares—only 3% of Austria’s vineyard land—planted across its 20-kilometer length. Over 600 producers grow grapes in the quaint villages of Spitz, Joching, Weissenkirchen, Dürnstein, and Loiben on the north bank of the Danube, and the town of Mautern on the south. Grüner Veltliner claims just over half of plantings with nearly 800 hectares; Riesling accounts for about 200. Most of Austria’s other grapes can be found here as well, but in tiny amounts—often less than one hectare. Vineyards are generally planted on the north side of the bank, as there are less-optimal expositions and access to sunlight on the south side, with the exception of a few notable sites. Unique parcels are carefully outlined, with over 150 rieden and more than 900 unofficial subzones. 

The Wachau is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Nearly three million square meters of hand-built granite walls mark steeply terraced vineyards, primarily on the northern bank, facing south. Despite the financial burden of maintaining these walls, their effect is both aesthetic and functional—they help preserve the humus that sits atop the bedrock, hold in heat and moisture, and contribute to vineyards’ individual microclimates and sense of terroir.

One of the driest of the Danubian regions, the Wachau often receives under 500 millimeters of rain annually. It is also more affected than other regions in Lower Austria by the pre-Alpine Atlantic winds from the west. Still, warmth from the Pannonian Plain stretches as far as the eastern section of the Wachau, with a particularly notable impact in Loiben. Cool, northern winds are essential at night to help wines develop tension despite a long ripening season, high sugar development, and elevated potential alcohol.

The Wachau is considerably hillier than neighboring Danubian regions. This provides a range of exposures and elevation differentials, resulting in myriad mesoclimates despite the relatively small growing area. Slopes in the Wachau rise as high as 600 meters, though many of the best are around 400 meters, with an average 30-degree gradient (some vineyards in Spitz are as steep as 70 degrees). This makes the Wachau a poor subject for Lenz Moser’s training system, as mechanized farming is nearly impossible. For every 150 meters or so in elevation gain, another degree (Celsius) drops for average yearly temperature, making conditions close to the river remarkably different from those toward the top. Volcanic soils, which inform much of the Wachau’s geology, have a propensity to drain quickly and hold heat. Historically, these factors, combined with an already dry climate in the peak of summer, would stunt the vine’s growth, leading to less-ripe expressions in the warmest vintages. Irrigation was authorized in 1983 and, though strictly regulated, is common in warmer years. As a result, quality has improved dramatically. 

Cellar techniques are varied in the Wachau. Most winemakers destem their fruit and use a pneumatic press upon reception. Temperature-controlled fermentations in stainless steel are popular, but some prefer the texture achieved with ambient yeasts, no temperature control, and neutral barrels, including Weingut Emmerich Knoll. Nearby forests supply the wood for locally crafted Stockinger barrels, a favorite in the Wachau. Some producers employ a little skin contact, others opt for extended lees aging, and various vessels can be used for fermentation and aging. Most winemakers actively avoid malolactic fermentation. Botrytis is infrequent and seldom welcome, leading to severe sorting when present. New oak is rarely used, nor is it allowed for those who are seeking to achieve wine of Ortswein, Riedenwein, or Vinea Wachau status.

Spitz, the village furthest west, sits at the base of the well-known Tausendeimerberg Vineyard, which yields delicate, easy-drinking wines. Just below, the steeply terraced rieden of Singerriedel and Hochrain contain sandier loam over gneiss, and both are excellent sites for Riesling. Further west, in the tributary valley of Spitzer Graben, some of the most celebrated rieden sit within high-reaching hillsides with notable amounts of slate and schist. This valley funnels air from the Weinviertel through to the Danube. Set apart from the river, it is the coolest region and experiences the latest harvest, sometimes extending into December. Even then, fruit expression is more austere than in other regions in the Wachau. Rieslings can be exceptional, with tension and a leaner frame, particularly those coming from the southwest-facing, slate-driven sites of Bruck (which sits at 500 meters), Schön, and Kalkofen. Donabaum, Högl, Veyder-Malberg, and Muthenthaler are the major players here.

The areas of Joching and Wösendorf have deeper paragneiss soils, and both begin to catch the loess sediments blowing in from the Alps. Ried Hochrain is one example. Downriver, Weissenkirchen yields wines with a more balanced expression overall—more generous in fruit on the palate than those from the west but a bit more focused than some of the opulent styles from further east. Rieden Achleiten and Klaus to its north are two of the most well-known sites. The west-facing Achleiten extends from about 200 to 400 meters, and soils go from mica schist to Gföhl gneiss, which characterizes Klaus soils as well. Prager and Rudi Pichler offer bottlings from Achleiten, and the site’s Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are known to carry a kind of petrichor minerality referred to locally as stinkerl. 

Moving further east, in Dürnstein, wines offer more weight on the palate. Ried Kellerberg, home to one of the oldest parcels (Schmidl’s Küss den Pfennig), is among the most revered sites, with sandy loess soils over crystalline gneiss and slate. Across the river in Rossatz to the south, weightier styles are typical.

As the Danube dips south then north again, a sheltered swell in between defines the Schütt, one of the first named vineyards (1379), shared by Dürnstein and Loiben. This site is largely noted for its deep loess soils, and although it is lower in elevation, a small crevasse allows cool air to enter in the evenings. Some of the most powerful wines come from Loibenberg, a huge south-facing hill to the north of the village that offers a wide range of expressions, as the soils, elevation, and producers vary. Knoll, Dömaine Wachau, and Alzinger are among those making wine from this heralded site.

Furthest east and slightly south, on the other side of the river, Mautern is quite flat, with sandy and gravely soils. It is thought that this is where viticulture began for Austria in the ried Im Weingebirge, documented back to 470 CE. It is also home to the country’s oldest winery, Nikolaihof, owned by the Saahs family since 1894 and famous for its biodynamic practices. Vom Stein, a parcel in the ried Silberbichl, holds some of the oldest vines in the Wachau.

In the heart of the Danube River Valley, Kremstal is a bit more exposed and open to the Pannonian Plain’s warm air current, though more protected than the Wachau from cooler northerly winds. Riper styles come from this region, which is also capable of producing full-bodied reds. With around 500 millimeters annually, Kremstal receives more rainfall than the Wachau; in the stretch that leads to Senftenberg in the Krems River Valley, it can be as high as 720 millimeters. This, along with less wind, means that botrytis is more common as well. Kremstal can be divided into three distinct areas: the region around and north of Krems, villages to the east and northeast en route to Kamptal, and those south of the Danube that border Traisental.

Krems is an old town that serves as the cultural center of Lower Austria. It retains a medieval character, with narrow windy roads and old churches. Krems is home to many museums, such as the Kunstmeile Krems Stein, and three universities, including Wein und Obstbauschule, an important enology school second only to Bundesamt für Wein- und Obstbau in Klosterneuburg. Also near Krems is the Göttweig Abbey, built in 1072, which reflects viticulture’s monastic origins here.

Centered around the twin towns of Stein and Krems, the vineyards have the same primary soils and high terraces as the Wachau. Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are again the focus, but the wines have a softness compared to their neighbors from the west, with exotic spice and a ripe, yellow-fruited character. A handful of producers still grow vines on the borders of Wachau and Kremstal. One example is the Pfaffenberg Vineyard. Salomon Undhof, a highly respected family estate since 1792, is one of the holders of this parcel and also farms two other acclaimed sites in Stein: Hund and Kögl (known for its pure glimmerschiefer, or “mica slate,” soils). Traveling north along the Krems River, bluff-like mounds of loess buffer a seven-mile stretch of windy roads on the way to Senftenberg. Here, Nigl and Proidl work well-known sites including Hochäcker and Pellingen. 

To the east and northeast are the winemaking communities of Strazing, Rohrendorf, and Gedersdorf. Deep swaths of water-retaining loess make this area ideal for Grüner Veltliner, which accounts for 55% of Kremstal’s land under vine. The warmer, flatter vineyards to the south, from the village of Furth to the edges of Traisental, offer a mixture of water-retentive gravels, sand, and loess, allowing a wide variety of grapes to thrive. Zweigelt accounts for even more hectarage than Riesling in Kremstal, with 12.9% to Riesling’s 10.5%. Malat is among the more reputable producers in the area.

The Kremstal DAC, achieved in 2007, allows only wines made from Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Basic Kremstal DAC with no vineyard mention must have a minimum of 12% alcohol and show no oak influence or botrytis; these wines are occasionally referred to informally as klassik. With mention of a vineyard, Kremstal DAC must meet 12.5% alcohol. Reserve DAC wines must have 13% minimum alcohol, cannot exceed nine grams per liter of residual sugar, and allow oak and botrytis character. Any wines that fall outside these requirements are labeled Niederösterreich. The terms klassik and reserve are no longer used widely. Most of the well-known growers have abandoned them altogether (particularly klassik) in preference for distinctions outlined by the Österreichische Traditionsweingüter, an association that identifies distinctive sites and quality levels throughout participating regions in Lower Austria. Wines can be labeled Gebietswein (regional wine), Ortswein (village wine) and Lagenwein (single vineyard), much like labeling in the DACs established after 2018.

Many believe that the wines of Kamptal rival those of the Wachau. Kamptal is home to some of the most revered Riesling sites in Austria and also offers world-class Grüner Veltliner, a wide range of complex reds, and premium Sekt. Despite its relatively small size, Kamptal follows only Weinviertel and Neusiedlersee in production volume. Much of the viticultural activity is centered around Langenlois, though the neighboring towns of Zöbing, Gobelsburg, Kammern, and Lengenfeld are significant as well. 

While Kamptal shares many of the geological and climatic aspects of Kremstal, it differs in a few important ways. For one, it is less humid and, as a result, doesn’t experience as much botrytis. (When it does, some producers experiment with sweet wines that can have racier acidity than those from Burgenland.) Kamptal is also slightly cooler at night, influenced less by the Danube and more by the Kamp tributary, which passes through its center, as well as the cool nightly winds coming in from the Waldviertel (Forest Quarter) to the west. The region is slightly warmer than the Wachau, particularly in the east near Kammern, and some Reserve offerings can achieve higher alcohol levels and denser styles. Overall, however, the wines offer more freshness than those from the Wachau or Kremstal. 

The Kamp River created a gorge-like valley within the Bohemian Massif, which largely defines Kamptal. While there is more loess, unique rock formations and conglomerate soils typify some of Kamptal’s higher-reaching sites, which near 350 meters. In the warmer, lower-elevation sites, gravels, sands, and clays are more common—an ideal combination for red grapes. In Langenlois specifically, Gföhl gneiss and slate are overlaid with sand, clay, and cambisol (brown earth at an early stage of soil formation); throughout the Kamptal Valley, gravel deposits make for crystalline formations in the hillsides, with more loams and clays in the lowlands. 

One of the most remarkable and treasured geologic formations in Kamptal, and home to an important vineyard, is the Heiligenstein. Located near the village of Zöbing, this massive rock is composed of 270 million-year-old Permian desert sandstone—a type of sandstone with volcanic conglomerates not found in any other vineyard in the country. It is regarded as one of the most special vineyards for Riesling in Austria. Rising 345 meters in elevation, its terraced, 36-hectare vineyard faces south and west. Among the producers with vines here are Bründlmayer, Schloss Gobelsburg, and Hirsch.

There are many famed rieden throughout Kamptal, including Gaisberg, Loiserberg (a cooler, elevated vineyard at over 400 meters in altitude), and Lamm, an excellent site for Grüner Veltliner. Some of these rieden are further recognized as Österreichische Traditionsweingüter-designated erste lage sites.

Kamptal became a DAC in 2008. Basic DAC wines must have a minimum of 11.5% alcohol by volume. Wines may only come from Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Chardonnay, Weissburgunder, or Grauburgundergrapes. While these two varieties reflect 60% of the hectarage (Grüner claiming most of this at 50%), there is still a substantial amount of wine in Kamptal bottled as Niederösterreich, though some of this percentage is presumably Niederösterreich g.U. Sekt. 

The sizeable Traisental region has relatively little area—only 815 hectares—under vine. It is peppered with historic villages that harbor heurigen, local taverns that traditionally serve fresh, recently released young wines from nearby growers. It is also home to St. Pölten, the capital of Lower Austria, in the south. One of the few regions growing in size, it serves as a hub for eager young vignerons to explore new grapes and styles—though the DAC, achieved in 2006, only allows for Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Neumeyer, a prominent grower in Traisental, was a key figure in advocating for this region’s recognition as distinct from the umbrella Donauland designation it was under until 1995.

Traisental is tucked within the Mostviertel region south of the Danube and Kremstal, separated from the Wachau by the Dunkelsteinerwald, an extension of the Bohemian Massif, in the west. The vines are mostly clustered in the north, closer to the Danube but primarily alongside the left bank of the Traisen River, where active limestone and conglomerate soils are unique to this region. Terraced vineyards sit on east-facing slopes that reach as high as 400 meters in elevation, offering cooler conditions. Loess with conglomerate soils dominates Traisental, particularly on the right bank, and Grüner Veltliner is the leading grape with 475 hectares under vine. Grüner Veltliner from Traisental balances decadence and spice with distinctive structure and verve on the palate. The region receives more rain than its neighbors but benefits from a constant breeze that comes in from the forest. Vines are often trained high to avoid rot and counter frost. Reichersdorf and Inzersdorf are important winemaking villages.

Wagram sits on the eastern edge of the Danubian regions, nearest to Vienna. Until 2007, it was known as Donauland and included Traisental; since then, each has gained its own boundaries. Wagram extends on both sides of the Danube. The vast majority of grapegrowing occurs on the north shore, and quite far from the river itself. Here, a ridge about 40 meters high lines the northern end of a grand plateau that was an ancient shoreline nearly 150 million years ago, when much of Central Europe was beneath the Paratethys Sea. The Ice Age brought layers of cakey loess, a significant component of the soils today, extending as deep as 20 meters atop primordial sea fossils. With steady southern exposure, Grüner Veltliner thrives, often yielding full-bodied, spicy wines with an identifiable creamy texture. Roter Veltliner and ageworthy Eiswein from Grossriedenthal are standouts as well. Other noteworthy villages include Feuersbrunn, Fels, and Kirchberg.

There are a few hundred hectares planted to the south, including around the 900-year-old Klosterneuburg Monastery, just outside of Vienna. The monastery’s wine institute, established in 1860, was formative for most of Austria’s leading winemakers in the late 19^th and much of the 20^th century. Vines are planted on mixed soils that include flysch rocks, a kind of layered shale embedded with greywacke-sandstone.

Wagram has long resided in the shadow of its more prominent western neighbors, but, much like Traisental, it is beginning to receive more respect for its rise in quality and overall value. Wagram was elevated to DAC status in 2022. A handful of dedicated and curious vignerons have reenergized the region in recent decades. Anton Bauer is experimenting with concrete eggs for his old vine Weissburgunder, Ecker-Eckhof ages reserve wines in acacia barrels, and Josef Fritz has made a name for his Roter Veltliners, the best from 60-year-old vineyards and aged in large casks. Trials with extended lees aging are also common, including with Bernhard Ott, who is among the most revered winemakers and a pioneer of biodynamic practices in Wagram.

The Weinviertel offers open spaces, generous hilltop vistas, and quaint villages. In terms of winemaking, however, it was historically considered the land of bulk production and mediocre quality. Throughout recent centuries, this was an agricultural community that primarily focused on polyculture, with grapes one of many crops and the Gemischter Satz blend a utilitarian product. But by the mid-1980s, the Weinviertel, like so many regions throughout Austria, was rethinking quality, identity, and reputation. Led by individuals like Roman Pfaffl, a younger generation began to see the potential of the Weinviertel, which is home to more than 4,500 hectares of vines over 30 years of age. A commitment to quality was made more official when the Weinviertel became the first wine region to apply for and receive DAC status in 2002. That same year, 15 wineries formed the Premium Weingüter Weinviertel, an association dedicated to lifting the region’s reputation across several grapes and styles. Today, Grüner Veltliner comprises nearly half of the vines in the Weinviertel, and it is the only variety that qualifies for DAC consideration—despite ongoing debate.

The Weinviertel extends 80 kilometers east to west and claims nearly half of the vines planted in all of Lower Austria. It is bordered by the Danube River to the south, the Czech Republic to the north, and Slovakia to the east. The region’s western frontier sees some of the primary granitic soils of its more prestigious neighbors, allowing for more structured Riesling. In and around the northwest area of the Pulkau Valley, there are some notable red winemaking villages, such as Haugsdorf and Jetzelsdorf; red wine is also produced further east in the warm town of Mailberg. Grüner Veltliner and Weissburgunder are successful in the loess-and-granite soils around Röschitz. To the south, Hohenwarth, on the Wagram border, has chalkier soils. Here, exceptional whites from Grüner Veltliner, Weissburgunder, and Roter Veltliner have been celebrated since the 1960s for their intensity and complexity.

The eastern half of the Weinviertel can be roughly divided into north and south in considering its wines. The northern stretches, centered around Poysdorf and Falkenstein, experience more wind and produce fresh, vibrant whites as well as fine examples of Sekt. Further south and closer to Vienna, the Pannonian Plain dictates warmer, softer expressions. The stretch from Korneuburg to Wolkersdorf, otherwise referred to as the flysch zone, yields very powerful, spicy styles of Grüner and Weissburgunder.

Throughout much of the late 18^th century and into the 19^th, Carnuntum enjoyed a quiet but respectable grapegrowing tradition. Yet its position on the borderlands of Slovakia and then Hungary’s Burgenland made it a popular crossroads for troops. By the end of World War II, Carnuntum had diminished in reputation. In response, a cooperative was established in the east, near Prellenkirchen, to process many of the region’s grapes. It wasn’t until the 1990s that Carnuntum’s potential, especially for red grapes, would be acknowledged again. In 1992, 25 producers formed the Rubin Carnuntum Wine Producers association and spelled out standards for high-quality Zweigelt—a grape that still dominates today, at over a quarter of the region’s vines. The Rubin designation falls within but goes beyond DAC regulations (received in 2019), mandating 100% Zweigelt, a minimum must weight of 18 degrees KMW (about 12.5% alcohol by volume), and a minimum of six months in wood. This group still exists and today has about 40 members.

Carnuntum is the only region in Lower Austria where red grapes lead, at nearly 55%, with Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch on top. But the region grows nearly all of Austria’s grapes, including impressive examples from French varieties like Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. If bottled monovarietally, DAC white wines must be 100% Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, or Weissburgunder; in a blend, two-thirds of these varieties must be present, along with other Qualitätswein grapes. Primary red varieties for DAC wines are Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch, and the same rules apply for red blends.

There are three regions that can be considered in Carnuntum: the Leitha Mountains, Arbesthal Hills, and Hundsheimer Mountains. Some of the freshest wines come from the Leitha Mountains, where limestone-accented vineyards are protected by forests from the warm winds coming up from the Pannonian Plain. The isolated and steep sandy hillsides of Stixneusiedl are the source of much of the activity in the region. Most production comes from the Arbesthal Hills, roughly in the heart of the region around the villages of Göttlesbrunn and Höflein, where Gerhard Markowitsch, Walter Glatzer, and the Artner family have been pioneers. Warm, western-facing vineyards on deep, loamy soils and gravel are foundational for the area’s red wines, the best coming from hilltop sites cooled by winds from the Danube that offset the warmth from the south. In the east, particularly around Prellenkirchen and Spitzerberg, there is a renewed sense of enthusiasm, with leaders like Muhr-van der Niepoort and Johannes Trapl offering prime examples of elegant Blaufränkisch.

Thermenregion has enjoyed a long winemaking tradition, but the Cistercian monks are primarily responsible for establishing its reputation in the Middle Ages. In the 15^th century, sweet styles from the village of Gumpoldskirchen grew in popularity, going on to rival those of Rust and Tokaj through the 19^th century. Thermenregion is widely recognized for its many heurigen, which attract the Viennese and tourists but have made it difficult for the region to progress in terms of quality. The tide is starting to turn, however, and Thermenregion is attracting accolades for its aspirational wines and inspiring excitement among young winemakers.

In 2023, the region was granted the DAC designation. The DAC features a three-tiered system of Gebietswein, Ortswein, and Riedenwein. At the Gebietswein level, producers are allowed to feature Rotgipfler, Zierfandler, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Neuburger, Pinot Noir, St. Laurent, Blauer Portugieser, and Zweigelt as blends, monovarietal wines, or Gemischter Satz. At the Ortswein or village level, producers can use Gebietswein varieties except for Blauer Portugieser as blends or varietal bottlings hailing from the villages of Gumpoldskirchen, Wiener Neustadt, Perchtodsdorf, Bad Vöslau, and Tattendorf. Also at the Ortswein level, producers are permitted to make sweet wines from Auslese to Trockenbeerenauslese. Lastly at the Riedenwein (single-vineyard) level, the DAC focuses on Rotgipfler, Zierfandler, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and St. Laurent. The first wines within the structure will be released in 2024. 

As Thermenregion sits over a fault line, bubbling hot springs can be found around the villages of Baden and Bad Vöslau. The region can be divided into two growing areas, with Baden as the dividing line between north and south. There are over 42 different winegrowing areas, though the greatest activity is centered around Gumpoldskirchen to the north and Tattendorf in the south. On the easternmost stretches of the Alps in the north, the vineyards of the Anninger Hills reach as high as 450 meters, clinging to marine limestone fossils over 19 million years old atop brown loamy soils. These well-protected hills face east and south, receiving ample sunshine and producing the best wines mid-slope. The northern wineries are prized for their Rotgipfler and Zierfandler. Both grapes have an affinity for desirable botrytis and can achieve high levels of sugar and extract, but where Rotgipfler has an expansive palate and dense, tropical fruit, Zierfandler tends toward more balance, with pointed acidity and focused yellow fruit. It is not uncommon for dry versions, such as those from Johanneshof Reinisch, to experience some skin contact and extended aging in neutral wood. 

Though it appears flat as compared to the north, southern Thermenregion sits upon a plateau of gravelly, alluvial material, fully open to Pannonian warmth. Though less celebrated than the Anninger Hills, the southerly vineyards are nonetheless finding renewed attention for their Pinot Noir and St. Laurent. The best reserve reds tend to see new oak aging regimens. In 2003, a group of eight wineries established the Burgundermacher association—less a rule making establishment and more an outlet to exchange ideas and methods for achieving higher quality with Weissburgunder, Pinot Noir, and St. Laurent.

Vienna

Winemaking within the city walls of Vienna (Wien in German) predates the Romans. Yet after the Turkish siege in 1683, grapegrowing was pushed beyond the walls and toward city limits—a fortunate shift, as the soils and climate there would prove to be more suitable for viticulture. Following a period of diminished sales after the city’s reorganization, Emperor Joseph II reinvigorated the local heurigen tradition, encouraging wineries to open up their doors. Wien is now recognized for its active, if not sometimes overly touristy, heurigen culture.

While some winemaking occurs south of the city in the warm areas of Mauer and Oberlaa, most of Vienna’s grapegrowing is to the north, on both sides of the Danube. The river is a critical moderating feature for vineyards subject to extreme frost in the spring and persistent heat from the Pannonian-Hungarian Plain in the summer. Wine from the Danube’s left bank is largely from the Bisamberg, a hill reaching about 350 meters in elevation and composed of well-drained flysch soils. This hill supplies winemakers in the surrounding villages of Jedlersdorf, Strebersdorf, and Stammersdorf with both white and red grapes. Across the river, fossil-laden limestone characterizes the soils in the 19^th district and on the Nussberg hill, widely considered the most prominent area for quality grapegrowing. Nussberg accounts for about 200 hectares with south and southeast exposure, ranging from 175 to 360 meters in elevation. The best rieden are found mid-slope and include prized erste lagen such as Ulm, Rosengartel, and Preussen. Old Gemischter Satz sites are among the most sought-after vineyards in Vienna. Other noteworthy villages in the 19^th are Nussdorf, Grinzing, Neustift am Walde, and Heiligenstadt.

In 2006, a group of six winemakers from across Vienna came together to form WienWein, with a mission to raise quality standards and showcase the region’s potential. Their effort culminated in obtaining DAC status in 2013, with a sole focus on Gemischter Satz. Fritz Wieninger has long been recognized for his transformative role in Vienna and was one of the first to demonstrate the potential for Gemischter Satz. Viennese crop reports document a three-fold rise in the category between 2009 and 2016, from 53 to 179 hectares. Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC requires a minimum of three white varieties; no single grape can exceed 50% of the blend, nor can one grape represent less than 10% if only three varieties are used. Those without a vineyard designation must be under 12.5% alcohol and made in the trocken style. Those with a stated ried on the label must be above 12.5% and are not required to be trocken.

Burgenland

Records suggest that there were vineyards around the town of Illmitz in the 16^th century, and Donnerskirchen alleges that it produced a Trockenbeerenauslese style in 1526. Yet the citizens of Hungarian Burgenland (with the exception of Sopron) only joined the Austrian Republic in 1921, and the area’s wine industry didn’t truly develop until after the Russians ceased their occupation in 1956. Today, Burgenland is an agricultural state with an ideal climate for growing a wide array of crops. It is an extension of the Pannonian Plain and thus the hottest region in Austria. The land is highly fragmented and the villages less populated than those in Lower Austria. Burgenland was the greatest beneficiary of grants when Austria joined the EU in 1995, which allowed for capital improvements and a subsequent rise in wine quality. Though its GDP per capita is still the lowest compared to other federal states, Burgenland has been on a healthy rebound since the late 1990s. 

Burgenland’s defining geographic feature, at 36 kilometers in length, is Lake Neusiedl, which could more appropriately be called a grand marsh, as its average height rarely exceeds one meter. Lake Neusiedl has even dried up completely, though not since 1866. The lake extends across the border into Hungary, which holds about one-quarter of its area. It is a protected natural preserve and a sanctuary for birds and other wildlife. The water has been monitored and managed since the middle of the last century. Lake Neusiedl is a moderating influence and acts as a heat reservoir in the summer, reaching as high as 30 degrees Celsius. It contributes to the misty mornings responsible for some of the country’s most sought-after botrytized Beerenauslese, Ausbruch, and Trockenbeerenauslese wines from Rust and Seewinkel, two historic villages across from one another at the narrowing of the lake. 

Burgenland is home to six DACs: Neusiedlersee, Leithaberg, Mittelburgenland, Eisenberg, Rosalia, and most recently, Ruster Ausbruch. The sunny, warm climate allows a greater range of grapes than in any other winegrowing region in Austria. White grapes represent an important portion of plantings, particularly for historic dessert styles from Welschriesling, Muskateller, Muscat Ottonel, Grüner Veltliner, and Chardonnay. Red grapes, however, surpassed white in 2009 and now constitute over 55% of the vineyard area, thriving in the limestone, clay, and schistose soils. Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt compose nearly three-quarters of red varieties. The best examples come from Gols, Leithaberg, and Eisenberg, though leading producers in Mittelburgenland are also rising to the fore.

Upon the eastern shores of Lake Neusiedl, vineyards stretch from the northern towns of Neusiedl and Gols down to the dessert wine-focused villages of Illmitz and Apetlon in the Seewinkel sector. Together, this vast and varied region is referred to as Neusiedlersee, which became a recognized DAC in 2011 for its boisterous Zweigelt-based reds. Its coveted dessert wines are what originally drove the industry, and the DAC was expanded in 2020 to permit these styles. Neusiedlersee is the largest of Burgenland’s six regions and also its warmest, sitting east of both the lake and the Alps and collecting unobstructed heat from the Hungarian plains. 

In Neusiedlersee, dry wines are generally grown to the north and sweet wines to the south. North of the lake is the village of Neusiedl, where soils are accented with limestone and schist, carried over from the Leitha Mountains to the west. More typically, though, gravels, sand, and clay dominate, including in the band of villages that begins just southeast of Neusiedl and includes Weiden, Gols, Mönchhof, and Halbturn. Gols is home to the most significant rieden. 

The appellation mandates that DAC red wine is Zweigelt-based, while DAC Reserve wine must contain at least 60% of the grape. Zweigelt leads plantings with nearly a quarter of the hectarage. Blaufränkisch, St. Laurent, and Pinot Noir are represented as well, and Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah collectively make up just over 5% of planted hectarage. 

Winemakers may also choose to use the Pannobile classification on a label if they follow specific guidelines laid out by the Pannobile association, formed by producers in 1994. There are currently nine members, including Judith Beck, Paul Achs, Gerhard Pittnaur, and Claus Preisinger. Together, they identified the best sites and varieties and shared ideas in an effort to produce more distinctive wines. To qualify, a red wine must incorporate Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, or St. Laurent; for whites, Chardonnay, Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder, and Neuburger are the only grapes allowed. This opens up quality-focused credentials for wines that fall outside of DAC requirements.

The warm gravel soils of Seewinkel in the south are home to dry reds and whites, but the unique geography of this area makes it ideal for late-harvest botrytized styles as well as Schilfwein and Strohwein. In addition to Lake Neusiedl, 47 surrounding lakes (called zicklacken) to the east heat up throughout the summer and contribute to the climate. These bodies of water lose nearly 40% of their volume to evaporation and increase the overall humidity. Come autumn, when cool nighttime air passes over the warm water, evaporation becomes fog, which settles over the vineyards. Dry, sunny days break up the fog and allow for noble rot to develop. This consistent weather pattern makes this pocket of Europe one of the most reliable for creating ageworthy Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese wines. Welschriesling is among the most revered varieties for this style and accordingly leads white grapes in overall hectarage planted in Neusiedlersee (11%). But many others have been successful as well, such as Weissburgunder, Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, Muscat Ottonel, Muskateller, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sämling 88 (Scheurebe). Grapes within the Seewinkel sector are not affected by as much diurnal fluctuation in temperature as those across the lake in Rust, leading to softer acidity overall.

Alois Kracher was among the great advocates and influencers for Illmitz. Despite his family’s winemaking roots, he started his career as a pharmacist, then joined the family business in 1986, eager to right the world’s image of Austrian sweet wines after the 1985 scandal. His mentors included Pierre Meslier, then head winemaker at Château d’Yquem, and Egon Müller in the Mosel. His son, Gerhard, has carried the torch since his death in 2007. Seewinkel also had a number of key winemakers whose work in the early ’90s was essential for the industry. Willi Opitz pioneered the Schilfwein, or “reed wine,” technique in Austria, wherein dessert grapes that don’t appear destined for great botrytis are dried on reed mats for six to eight weeks after harvesting from the vine. Hans Tschida, who got his start in 1993, is known for his powerful yet balanced BAs and TBAs of Chardonnay, Welschriesling, and Scheurebe, but he also produces a unique Zweigelt Schilfwein in addition to Grüner Veltliner Eiswein, a style this area can achieve in most years.

Leithaberg served as the border dividing Austro-Hungary from the rest of Austria until the end of World War I. Situated on the western side of Lake Neusiedl, it experiences very different growing conditions from those across the water. Though still influenced by the lake and benefiting from its warm winds during ripening, Leithaberg’s vineyards begin about 15 kilometers away from the shore and are more stylistically impacted by the Leitha Mountains, which rise nearly 500 meters, separating the winegrowing area from Carnuntum and Thermenregion. Many of the vineyards are scattered upon south- and east-facing slopes in the foothills of the Leitha Mountains, though some are closer to the lake, where flatter lands are more suited to whites and dessert wines. The Pannonian Plain still heavily influences Leithaberg and enables a long, warm growing season. The elevation, however, allows for cooler nights and results in red wines that are more acid driven than those from Gols. Soils in lower areas are composed of sand, loam, and black earth, while in vineyards higher upon the slopes, soils contain more mica-schist, gneiss, and a crustaceous limestone referred to as leithakalk. The region receives more rainfall than Neusiedlersee, though there is less botrytis development as vineyards gain elevation. These higher-elevation areas, particularly surrounding Grosshöflein, produce some of the best reds in all of Burgenland.

The Leithaberg DAC was introduced in 2010 and includes reds starting from the 2008 vintage and whites from the 2009 vintage. Red wines must contain a minimum of 85% Blaufränkisch, which can only be balanced with the addition of Pinot Noir, Zweigelt, or St. Laurent. Red wines are fermented dry (no more than 2.5 grams per liter of residual sugar), and they must age two full years after harvest in modest oak. White wines must be composed of Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, Neuburger, and/or Weissburgunder. These, too, must be dry and age for a year after harvest before release in either stainless steel or neutral oak. All wines must achieve a minimum 12.5% alcohol.

The quiet region of Rosalia sits in the Alpine foothills of the Rosalia Range, along the state lines of Lower Austria and Burgenland. It is between Leithaberg to the north and Mittelburgenland to the south. The Wulka River flows to Lake Neusiedl and is responsible for the fluvial-rich deposits of brown earth and sandy loam that sit on top of loess in much of this region. These fertile soils, accented with limestone and clay, yield hearty, structured reds and are ideal for Blaufränkisch, which claims over half of all plantings. Prior to becoming a DAC in 2018, Rosalia was a grosslage. It is still a small community of less than a dozen winemakers. Many of its vineyards surround the central political district of Mattersburg, and some of the finest are in the northerly village Pöttelsdorf. DAC and DAC Reserve red wines are produced from Blaufränkisch or Zweigelt and must reach minimums of 12% and 13% ABV, respectively; red wines must not exceed four grams per liter residual sugar and are not to be blended. Rosalia was also the first region to legally protect rosé, which can be composed of any permitted Qualitätswein red variety (alone or as a blend) and must be vinified dry. A winemaker may indicate a ried on the label for Reserve reds and rosés. 

Mittelburgenland lies just south of Neusiedlersee in the heart of Burgenland, surrounded by the Sopron Mountains to the north, the Bucklige Welt hills to the west, and the Kőszeg Mountains to the south. Cradled in a kind of amphitheater, Mittelburgenland is protected from wind, enjoys over 300 days of sunshine, and collects heat from the plains to the east. It has an ideal climate for Blaufränkisch, which accounts for over half of vineyard plantings and has been important here since the late 1970s—some even call the region Blaufränkischland. Blaufränkisch is also the cornerstone and sole grape permitted for the three-tiered DAC, initiated with the 2005 vintage. A wine may qualify for Mittelburgenland DAC, Mittelburgenland DAC with stated ried, or Mittelburgenland Reserve. Mittelburgenland Reserve wines should carry a noticeable mark of new oak, where the others do not. New oak dominates the more aspirational wines of this region. 

Significant grapegrowing areas and rieden in Mittelburgenland can be found in four primary municipalities: Deutschkreutz, Neckenmarkt, and Horitschon in the north, and Lutzmannsburg to the south. Lake Neusiedl maintains some influence over wineries in the north, pushing warm winds from the water, especially in the autumn. Overall, though, this region is quite dry and hot throughout the summer. Soils are primarily rich clay and loam, though higher-elevation vineyards in Horitschon see some limestone and even traces of iron, and Neckenmarkt contains red slate. Lutzmannsburg has more sandy loam. Diversity of elevation, soils, and aspect contribute to a wide range of expressions and quality throughout Mittelburgenland. Some of the most celebrated rieden are Hochäcker in Horitschon, Hochberg in Neckenmarkt, and Goldberg in Deutschkreutz. 

Albert Gesellmann and Hans Igler were key figures in establishing this region. In more recent decades, single-vineyard expressions have become increasingly important, and winemakers like Franz Weninger, Paul Kerschbaum (and his son Michael), and Roland Velich of Moric have established a sense of seriousness for wines from this region. 

Prior to its entry into the DAC system in 2008, few people were familiar with wines from Eisenberg, and it was referred to simply as Südburgenland. Though the DAC raised awareness for a few particular wineries, the reality is that grapegrowing is not a primary pursuit for most producers in Eisenberg, and the vast majority of the wine is still sold in local heurigen.

Eisenberg is considerably different than the rest of Burgenland, as it is not affected by the moderating influence of Lake Neusiedl, nor direct Pannonian heat. It does, however, experience a slight Mediterranean influence from the south and receives more rainfall (750 millimeters annually) than any other region in Burgenland. Slightly cooler temperatures make for wines with notable acidity; growers need to take care not to harvest too early, as overly elevated acidity can cause problems in the winery and lack appeal for consumers.

The village of Rechnitz in the north produces satisfactory whites, largely from Welschriesling. Furthest south, Heiligenbrunn is known for the local specialty Uhudler, a foxy-scented, non-vinifera, hybrid rosé that authorities are attempting to phase out by 2030 but is still undeniably popular. Yet the region’s most significant winegrowing area, for which the DAC was named, sits on the Eisenberg hill and in the neighboring village of Deutsch Schützen. Eisenberg, meaning “iron mountain,” served as an iron ore mine in Roman times. It rises to about 400 meters in elevation, and its south-facing slopes are rich with iron and schist. At the base of the hill, in Deutsch Schützen, soils are more clay loam. Blaufränkisch is the primary grape grown in this area and Eisenberg’s most planted variety at over 35% of total hectarage. The DAC also allows for Welschriesling at the Ortswein and Reidenwein level.  Many attribute a distinctive earthiness and minerality to the Blaufränkisch grown here. The Eisenberg DAC only allows Blaufränkisch in two styles: Eisenberg DAC and Reserve. The former is a fresh, fruit-forward style, with a minimum of 12% alcohol and no signs of oak. Here, Reserve indicates longer time on the vine, with a minimum of 13% alcohol and perceptible oak influence. Of Eisenberg’s producers, Weingut Krutzler and Weingut Wachter-Wiesler stand out as leaders.

Styria

The rolling hills, panoramic alpine vistas, and lush forests of Styria (Steiermark) reflect stereotypical perceptions of Austria, but the region is actually quite distinct from the majority of the country’s winegrowing regions further north. Tucked into the southeastern corner of Austria, the federal state of Styria is second only to Lower Austria in terms of size, but just 0.2% of its land mass is under vine, representing 10% of the country’s vineyards. However, hectarage has increased by 78% since 2000. 

In the early 1800s, Archduke John disgraced his family by marrying a commoner and was banished to Styria. He introduced Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay (known as Morillon in Styria), among other grapes, which have become key to showcasing the region’s quality potential. John also established a viticulture school and nurseries, helping the region recover from its decline after the wars of the 16^th and 17^th centuries. Under the Habsburg dynasty, Styria was nearly twice its current size and included Slovenia, with over 27,000 vineyard hectares at its height. But following phylloxera and World War I, Yugoslavia claimed what is today Slovenia as one of its provinces, leaving Styria with about 8,000 hectares. 

Styria’s wine industry was rather quiet throughout the 20^th century, but a select few, including the Sattler, Tement, Polz, and Sabathi families, worked to revive the region. In 2008, they established the Steirische Terroir- und Klassikweingüter (STK) group. STK is dedicated to exploring the individuality of Styria’s higher and steeper vineyard sites, which produce the highest-quality wines, with single vineyard distinction (lagen). There are currently 12 estate members. Like similar organizations that formed prior to DAC introduction, STK relies on a hierarchy that identifies Erste STK Ried (premier cru) and Grosse STK Ried (grand cru) vineyard sites. Minimum vine ages, maximum yields, and aging requirements are compulsory.

In 2018, Styria’s three winegrowing regions, Südsteiermark, Vulkanland Styria, and Weststeiermark, entered the DAC system. They were the first to initiate the three-tier hierarchical system that has since been the direction for DAC classification. The most general tier is Gebietswein (regional), followed by Ortswein (village, or a cluster of villages indicated by a hyphen on the label), and Riedenwein (single vineyard). All wines must come from hand-harvested grapes from eight permitted varieties (Welschriesling, Weissburgunder, Morillon, Grauburgunder, Riesling, Muskateller, Sauvignon Blanc, and Traminer). Blauer Wildbacher for Schilcher wine is allowed only in Weststeiermark. All wines must be vinified dry (with a maximum of four grams per liter of residual sugar), with the exception of Riesling, Traminer, and Muskateller under certain conditions for sweet styles and when clearly communicated on the label. 

A range of styles is produced in Styria. Klassik wines are youthful and often fermented in stainless steel, with minimal lees influence and blocked malolactic fermentation. Conversely, lagen wines are characteristically more complex and full bodied, experiencing barrel age (new or neutral wood of varying sizes), skin contact, extended lees aging, and/or malolactic fermentation. There is also a budding community of young natural wine producers who call themselves the Schmecke das Leben group and are experimenting with ambient ferments, orange wine styles, and minimal to no additions throughout the winemaking process. 

Styria is considered continental, but unlike regions to the north, the climate is much more variable and influenced by wind patterns from all directions. The Adriatic sends its warmth from the south, intersecting with cooler Alpine winds from the north; warm Pannonian currents from the east collide with Koralpe Mountain airstreams from the west. Styria has very hot summers, while winters can reach low temperatures, threatening younger vines. It also receives the most rain, sometimes as much as 1,000 millimeters in a year. Frost, hail, and mildew pressure are key challenges. Most vineyards are between 300 and 600 meters in elevation and set upon severely graded inclines—ideal for ripening but further compounding complications for growers, as manual pruning, canopy management, and harvesting are compulsory for most. The Eastern Alpine Unit largely informs the remarkable diversity of soils here, which change from one vineyard to the next. Sand, gravel, limestone, slate, marl, and volcanic basalt are the primary soils.

Sauvignon Blanc is now the region's most-planted grape, growing from 177 to 948 hectares between 2005 and 2023. Welschriesing, the previously most planted grape, is now the second most planted at 753 ha. The third most planted variety, Weissburgunder, is also prominent. Morillon wasn’t even mentioned in older reports but now composes 325 hectares. Plantings of Grüner Veltliner are miniscule, and very little red wine is made, though Zweigelt and a few others are planted. The most important red grape is Blauer Wildbacher, which is used for the protected Schilcher rosés of Weststeiermark.

Südsteiermark is the smallest growing region in Styria but contains over half of its vines and some of its most esteemed rieden. The area’s Sauvignon Blanc can rival examples from the Loire Valley, and Chardonnay can achieve Burgundian parallels. Most production takes place in the southeastern territory, which stretches for about 40 kilometers alongside the Slovenian border in the DAC-recognized villages of Gamlitz, Ehrenhausen, Eichberg, and Leutschach. All of Styria’s soils are represented, varying from one village to the next. There is more sand and quartz in Gamlitz, fossilized limestone and clay in Ehrenhausen, conglomerate gravel pebbles in Eichberg, and a calcareous marl locally referred to as opok in Leutschach, the southernmost municipality. Further north across the dividing Sulm River is the reputable Kitzeck im Sausal region, where foliated slate and schist account for over 85% of soils. In Kitzeck, Riesling is exemplary; this is also home to the highest (650 meters) and steepest vineyards in Styria.

After establishing his estate in 1979, Manfred Tement was among the first to champion Sauvignon Blanc, which now leads in Südsteiermark. His most well-known holdings are from the Zieregg and Grassnitzberg rieden. He was also a pioneer for barrique aging, a trend that continued well into the early 2000s, when large neutral casks became popular for even top single-vineyard wines. Other forerunners for the region include Willi Sattler, who was among the first to bottle and promote high-quality dry wine in the 1970s, when many were still blending in Muskateller to sweeten their offerings. Obegg, Hochgrassnizberg, and Sernau are other important rieden to know. 

Vulkanland, known as Südoststeiermark until 2016, sits in eastern Styria, bordering Burgenland’s Eisenberg. It benefits from Mediterranean warmth and humidity from the south and dry, hot winds from the Pannonian Plain, making it the warmest of Styria’s regions. The wines that result are a little more weighty and ripen slightly sooner than those from the west. Impressive diurnal variations help maintain fresh acidity in the wines. “Volcano land,” as the name translates, contains several extinct volcanos, which have given the region basalt soils, accented with patches of loam, sand, and clay. 

Eight villages are acknowledged for DAC Ortswein, but most winemaking activity occurs in Sankt Anna am Aigen, Straden, and Klöch. Kapfenstein is another important village in terms of quality. Vulkanland is a hub for Welschriesling as well as Weissburgunder. 

Klöch is the most renowned village and particularly valued for its Traminer, which can be made in off-dry and dessert styles as well. Basalt dominates the west side of Klöch and tuff the east. Due to their high iron content, the soils of Klöch can appear red in color and gather significant heat, making the wines particularly powerful. 

Weststeiermark sits in the Alpine foothills of the Koralpe Mountains. It is the smallest region in Styria in terms of hectarage. Over 65% of plantings are dedicated to Blauer Wildbacher for Weststeiermark’s highly acidic Schilcher rosés. Documented back to the 16^th century, this regional specialty gets its name from schillern, referencing its ability to appear almost iridescent. Schilcher is most often a still wine, but it can also be lightly or fully sparkling. Crystalline gneiss, slate, and schist prevail in Weststeiermark. The steep vineyards are widely dispersed, though the best are grown between 420 to 600 meters to avoid frosts. There are four municipalities for DAC Ortswein classification: Eibiswald, Deutschlandsberg, Stainz, and Ligist. No STK wines are produced here. 

Bergland

Bergland consists of five winegrowing regions located on the western side of the country: Carinthia (or Kärnten, with 170 hectares), Upper Austria (or Oberösterreich, with 45 hectares), Salzburg (7 hectares), Tyrol (or Tirol, with 5 hectares), and Vorarlberg (10 hectares). Many of these areas historically enjoyed a prosperous wine industry, but shifts in climate and economy, phylloxera, and the rise of breweries changed their fortunes in more recent years. In 1999, there were only 21 hectares in Bergland. But today, this area is experiencing a kind of renaissance. A range of grapes, especially white varieties, are represented, and wines made from the 40 approved varieties may qualify as landwein when Bergland is given for the region of origin. 

Note: Data for the grape overview was taken from the AWMB statistical survey conducted by the Federal Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, Environment, and Water Management (BMLFUW) and combined with primary data to account for federal states of Bergland that were not represented in the BMLFUW survey. For regional overviews, 2017 data reported by the individual federal states of Lower Austria, Burgenland, Vienna, and Styria provides more detailed information concerning specific grapes under vine in those regions.

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Special thanks to Andreas Wickhoff MW and Dr. Bertold Salomon for their help in reviewing this guide.

Compiled by MW Ashley Hausman (August 2020)

Edited by Stacy Ladenburger