When Francis Percival wrote recently about the rise of the “American ‘Somm’” in the new online drinking-culture online magazine Punch, likening American sommelier communities (largely online) to college fraternities, it sparked plenty of discussion and undoubtedly ruffled a few feathers. And although there may be a grain of truth in there somewhere, his characterization is probably more representative of limited research. At least it seems like only a small clique of hip restaurants in New York were surveyed. The result would probably have been very different if he had visited Chicago, Miami or for that matter Napa Valley, just like he could find plenty of bearded and inked sommeliers with tattoos working in trendy bars in Europe too.
As a sommelier myself, I work fairly extensively with American wine and cross the Atlantic a few times a year to visit producers, taste the new vintage and secure allocations. While there, exploring the restaurant scene is almost as important though, seeking inspiration and studying the trends.
Now, I don’t claim to have made a better job of research, and I am probably just as guilty of generalizing as Percival is. Certainly, my view of American sommeliers is skewed. I rarely see small-town America (unless you count places like Walla Walla or Newberg) or places far off the coasts, so forgive me if my perception is overly simplistic. But I would like to delve a little deeper into the similarities and differences that seem to exist between the sommelier culture in Europe and USA, because I believe there are plenty of things the “sommeliers” could learn from the “somms” and vice versa. Understanding where we come from is the first step. In many ways this is no more than an opinion piece and I welcome contrasting views and discussion.
First off, let’s dispel any notions that the sommelier profession is an ancient and noble one and that Europeans have some sort of natural upper hand by mere seniority.
King Philip V first recognized Sommellerie as a proper trade in the 14th century, and it was at the courts of Europe, especially France, that the sommeliers first made their appearance. As the aristocracy lost power, either violently in revolution or more gradually as the merchant classes surpassed the blue bloods in wealth and started demanding the same level of luxury goods and services. With their masters beheaded or impoverished, the former servants spread out amongst the commons and became entrepreneurs and employees, starting the first restaurants (at least as we know them) in the final half of the 18th century. Most of these establishments were fairly simple places with little choice of beverages (or food for that matter). For the next hundred years, we can safely assume that the number of restaurant employed sommeliers were no more than a handful in all of Europe. More likely, the trade evolved and lived on through butlers who stocked and served at the personal homes of the upper classes.
By the end of the 19th century the industrial revolution had cared for improved means of logistics and better storage capabilities. Now restaurants could stock something other than whatever beverages were available locally. Increasing amounts of “wealthy” people flocked to the cities and were anxious to show their sophisticated tastes publicly. If we could travel back in time to this period and visit a luxurious restaurant in Paris, we would no doubt be able to ask for the sommelier and ask his advice on this or that vintage of Hock or which fine Madeiras to drink with dessert. By no means was this widespread though and few cites apart from the main cultural centers of central Europe; Paris, Vienna, Rome and London could boast more than a small handful of professionals working as sommeliers or cellarmasters. And it would stay this way for a long time.
Economic depression and brutal wars devastated Europe’s appetite for luxury in the first half of the 20th century. The gastronomic scene took until the 1970’ies to reach the same level it had fifty years prior. With cheap air travel and personal vehicles tourism became the main driver for the industry. Gastronomically more bland cultures like Britons, Scandinavians and Americans brought colorful impressions of French cuisine and service with them home. Ambitious restaurants sprung up everywhere as a result. The sommelier profession was however, with few exceptions, unheard in most of Europe until the 1980’s, mirroring the history in USA. As an illustration of this, most of the European national sommelier associations were born during this period, inferring that a certain critical mass had been reached. For example, the Austrian Sommelier association was founded in 1982, the Swedish in 1988, the Hungarian in 1992.
In many ways post-war USA, with a large middle class with ample means to spend on luxuries like fine dining and an infrastructure unharmed by the wars has as much of a history in modern sommellerie as most of Europe.
In Europe the decision to go in to hospitality is traditionally one made early, generally at around 16 years of age, when the education system separates those meant for higher studies from those meant for more simple labor. As Percival notes in his article, the hospitality route is one not taken by the most ambitious of students and hospitality school serves as a way to catch kids who aren’t really interested or apt to pursue more general education. This is true in France, Germany and a handful of other nations but a major shift seems to be taking place, perhaps paradoxically fueled by the financial crisis. We are now seeing far more (relatively) older sommeliers, oftentimes with an academic background, just like in USA. They have made a decision to pursue this career, and they are proud of it.
The academic route is one I went down myself, at least for a while, before coming to terms with my destiny. I did fairly well in grade school and had the possibility to choose from a wide variety of paths to go down at high school age. From an early age I loved cooking and wanted to be a chef. But I knew enough of the deadbeats and potheads that attended the local culinary and hospitality school to scare me off. Instead, I took a long detour via general studies in natural sciences and then nanotech engineering. I went on a hiatus about halfway when I realized my future would be spent running simulations on a computer or staring into a microscope (albeit a pretty cool microscope!). Instead I got stuck in the wine business, but the experience of academic studies was still valuable. As many CMS students can probably relate to, being able to sort and structure facts is a valuable skill, also when the subject is wine.
The title “sommelier” is not protected or restricted, not even France, meaning that anyone employed as a sommelier is a sommelier. No education or certification needed. And while autodidactic knowledge was very much the norm only 10 years ago in much of Europe, almost all professional sommeliers today have some sort of specific education in wine.
These studies can be done through public education system in some countries (like France or Spain) or through privately owned schools, that may be funded by the government, allowing the students to take out subsidized loans to fund their education. Some of these courses are fully independent, but quite a few are affiliated with the British-run Wine & Spirit Education Trust. This means that the school shapes their course around the WSET curriculum, using their reading materials and allowing the students a chance to take a separate exam and use the widely recognized WSET levels of certifications on their CV (usually what is known as Advanced Certificate: Level 3).
The WSET curriculum is well thought-out and gives a comprehensive yet sometimes shallow knowledge of the whole world of wine and spirits, but at higher levels it becomes apparent that it is geared towards what the British refer to as the “trade” (meaning those who work with imports, distribution and retail) and not sommeliers. There is no service methodology in their courses (most of the sommelier schools add a few classes on decanting and so forth) and a lot of focus is places on parameters like “value for money”. Blind tasting methodology even includes “price level” in the conclusion. I have to say that, to this day, I find it almost impossible to get this right in a blind tasting by any other method than by piecing together what I can deduce about grape, region, possible producer and so forth.
To both the trade and to the general public, the Master of Wine (MW) certification is by far the most widely recognized in Europe. To start down this route, one usually goes through the WSET education and the lengthy Diploma examination (Level 4), although the Institute of Masters of Wine does accept other candidates on special grounds as well. A handful of great sommeliers have managed to attain this title (most notable are perhaps Doug Frost MS, Gerard Basset MS and Marcus del Monego, the latter two also crowned World’s Best Sommelier). The Master of Wine exam is thoroughly academic, and it has been implied that due to this nature, it is not really meant for sommeliers. I find this quite denigrating. What matters more is the required financial commitment. Going through with the MW exam requires not only close to full time studies but also hefty bills at the local wine shop to prepare you for the tastings as well as frequent flights to London. Few restaurants have the sort of capital to go through with that sort of commitment, and looking at some recent topics of MW dissertations, I am not even sure the pursuit is worthwhile for an active sommelier.
Although prominent in its home country, United Kingdom, the Court of Master Sommeliers remains largely unheard of in the rest of Europe. Although I will have a hard time proving this, it also seems like the title holds a lot more cache in the US, often leading to well-paid and prestigious assignments. This is not the case, at least not to the same extent, in Europe. There is a rising trend of candidates from other European countries enrolling in the CMS gaining traction (especially after the popular SOMM-documentary), but as all the courses, exams and tastings are held in the UK it requires a hefty personal financial investment, with little reward for success back home.
Another title that pops up with some frequency is Wine MBA (another one that Gerard Basset can put on his long CV) that is run by the Bordeaux Wine Institute. Its courses include “International Wine Economy” and “Management and Company Strategy”. Although certainly serious and usable if you are going into business, it is not exactly geared towards the average sommelier either.
Being a member of the national sommelier association is in many ways the most relevant and recognizable certification across Europe. Although the requirements vary from country to country, usually some sort of test of theoretical and practical knowledge as well as blind tasting is involved to become a member. These associations provide a network and a base for recruiting staff or seeking jobs. In some countries they are actively involved in education for aspiring sommeliers and the public. They also organize competitions for ambitious sommeliers, where they get to test their knowledge and skill. National winners move on to international competitions, held every few years. Although it will probably never be front-page stuff, there is a fair amount of media interest for these competitions. With the globalization of media and information, the winner of an international competition can look forward to quite a bit of attention and opportunity for interesting work. It also generates headlines that can help bring interest to the trade itself.
Now, at this point it should be noted that there are competing groups claiming to be the one and only sommelier association of the world and both host “Best Sommelier of the World”-type competition. These two are the ASI (Association de la Sommellerie Internationale) and WSA (World Sommelier Association). The ASI is by far the more senior and widespread, while the WSA is an offshoot of an Italian organization, with far fewer members. All of the WSA board members are Italian and most associations connected to them seem to be controlled by Italian ex-pats, (including the North American Sommelier Association). As of today, there is no American association that is officially connected to ASI, although there does seem to be something in the works as Alexander LaPratt (of Jean-Georges, NY) and Ian Cauble MS competed in the last ASI Best Sommelier of the Americas (in 2011), and the aforementioned LaPratt was the American Candidate for the Best Sommelier of the World competition, held in Tokyo, Japan in early 2013.
Either way, although I am partial (as I have competed and will continue to do so, at least once more in the competitions organized by ASI), it seems ASI is the more serious of the two worldwide sommelier associations.
I cannot recommend engaging in competition enough. Not only to further your own skillset and to keep yourself motivated to learn, but also to gain access to a rich network of other ambitious sommeliers and mentors.
So what jobs are available for the sommelier in Europe? In general, a line can be drawn between the northern, Lutheran countries (UK, Germany, Scandinavia and so forth) and the Latin South (France, Switzerland, Spain, Italy, Portugal etc.). Again, I apologize for painting with broad strokes here, as there are plenty of exceptions. It is also worth noting that Europe on the whole (not only in the world of wine) is rapidly becoming more and more homogenous.
In southern Europe labor is cheaper and the importance of hierarchy in the business place is stronger. This reflects in a compartmentalized policy of staffing. Sommeliers generally start fresh out of school as commis sommeliers, in essence; runners for the head sommelier, who deals with guest interaction and builds the wine list while the commis run to fetch bottles, polish glasses and unpacks cases in the cellar. Attaining the rank of chef usually involves not just talent and hard work but also seniority. Ambitious sommeliers quite often leave for greener grass, explaining for example why these days you would be hard pressed to find a British-born sommelier in many parts of the UK.
To illustrate the “southern style”, here is a story from a few years ago when I did a stage in the UK as part of an otherwise all-French sommelier team. On my first day in the restaurant, I dove in to help a petite female waiter who was clearly struggling with clearing a large table, while my sommelier colleagues stood back and hugged the wall. I was instantly reprimanded: “That’s not your job. They will get lazy if you do their job for them.” Conflicts between the different groups (and ethnicities) of employees were constant. A sommelier is a sommelier, not a waiter.
In the northern parts of Europe, where wages and labor costs are significantly higher, there are almost no “pure” sommeliers. You will generally only find sommeliers in the bigger cities as they are generally seen as an expense for the restaurant and when you do find them, they almost always fill a dual role. They are either waiter/sommelier, manager/sommelier or very rarely, although on the rise, bartender/sommelier.
Only a few years ago, the attitude within the industry towards sommeliers in northern Europe was rather patronizing: “You are lucky to get to work with what you actually enjoy” we were told, while being paid basically the same salary as a waiter but were expected to show up hours before service to unpack cases and stock up the cellar as well as maintaining the good financial health of the wine program (and in most cases the whole restaurant). Stocktaking was to be done on your free time. Let’s not talk about attending tastings.
Luckily this seems to be changing, as restaurateurs (usually coming from a chef background) begin to realize that wine sales usually make the lion’s share of an establishment’s revenue and that a competent sommelier can make the different between red and black, not to mention positively influence the return rate of guests.
With that said, usually the only way a sommelier can climb up the ladder is to take on the dual role of manager/sommelier. Being a leader has its charms and is something I have myself done for several years, but I can also say that I am content with focusing primarily on wine now. One can still lead by example, but my general advice to young sommeliers is to focus on one thing at a time. Becoming a good manager takes practice and you are unlikely to be both a great manager and a great sommelier. I have seen few, and I know I am not one of them.
As far as the contrasts: American sommeliers have better suits. No, really. Especially in the southern parts of Europe, it is not unusual to encounter the traditional black/white attire of short, open jacket combined with apron, bow tie and oversize pants that make you look like some sort of bullfighter. The tastevin is thankfully extinct.
The approach to hospitality is somewhat different across the pond however. Many Europeans consider “American service” overwhelmingly friendly, shallow and dishonest (no one really wants to know how you are doing, right?). While the distinctly surly French sommelier is generally a thing of the past, there is still a rather stiff mode of professionalism that can be found in the upper echelon of European restaurants. As a violent counter-reaction to this you can find wine bars and trendy restaurants everywhere where the staff go a little too far to eschew any trace of stiffness. But are we ready for communal tables, sommeliers who kneel down and lay their arms around your shoulders to talk to you? I am not so sure. I find Americans are so far, better at achieving a balanced approach. They seem friendly, laid back and casual, yet communicative, service-minded and poised. This goes both for the double Windsor-type and the t-shirt and full tattoo sleeve crowd.
Salary seems like a major contrast (although the differences in costs of living, taxation, tipping customs make a direct comparison sketchy). Just going by the Guild’s Salary Survey results from the last few years, it definitely seems like Americans would be wise to stay back and try to attain the MS degree. Although the initial compensation might be on par or even a tad higher for a junior sommelier in the north of Europe than in the US, the salary is distinctly lower in southern Europe. Add to that the fact that most Euro somms would count themselves lucky to be able to add 50% to their starting salary over the course of their entire career even if they do rise in the ranks. A rare handful ever double up on the salary they started in the business with. It seems the American system is much better at promoting striving for excellence.
Also, if the Salary Survey numbers paint a true picture, then I must congratulate the American Guild of Sommeliers on attaining that very special position of trust in the industry and successfully raising the status of the sommelier profession in the US. Bravo!
The main difference in the cultures probably lies in confidence. American sommeliers know they have fought to be where they are. They have usually taken a clear decision to leave some other field behind, go into hospitality, endured countless hours of self-studies and tough exams. This has instilled them with a confidence that European sommeliers seldom possess.
Prior studies in other fields might also help in reinforcing their sense of worth; they know how to analyze and control economic data, have an easier time around spreadsheets and budgets. They know what their work is worth to their employer as well, and can leverage this in negotiations.
Its not that Europeans are more humble, but they have beaten a system of mediocrity and compare themselves with those they’ve left behind. If they make more money and have a better suit than the waiters they went to school with, they’re content. Americans strive for the top spot in a different way and compare themselves to top chefs and bartenders. A helpful dose of the media coverage portraying sommeliers as rock stars, has probably helped to promote this sense of self-worth and also strengthened their position within the industry.
This confidence can spill over into arrogance, and for sure there are stories all over the net about cocky sommeliers, but I personally have never encountered an American sommelier that wanted to put him- or herself in the spotlight instead of the experience they were conveying.
Another particularly healthy contrast is that there seems to be a place for older professionals in the US. A head sommelier, especially with the MS pin attached to his lapel, can stay in this line of business for a long time. He has earned his stripes and probably fetches a salary that can support a family. Although you can still find the grand old men working service in some of the more luxurious establishments in Paris or Monaco, most have historically gotten out of the business at first opportunity, often heading to other parts of the wine trade, becoming salesmen or retailers.
It might be too early to say definitely, but I believe that the financial crisis has changed this paradigm. With people in their mid-20ies or even 30ies with years of studies (and thus loans) still living at home, unable to get jobs in their academic field, a career in hospitality is not seen as a failure anymore. Especially not if you have wine as a specialty. This seems to mirror the evolution of the trade in USA, although we are a few years behind the trend.
A revolution in the perception and appreciation of our trade has taken place over the last decade, and its epicenter has no doubt been in America. Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. I am hesitant to call it the “Somm” revolution though. Perhaps the image of the “sommelier” in public perception as a scary, arrogant type set out to skim you for as much as possible needed a reboot and the casual bearded, tattooed Somm filled that position perfectly. But in order to make sure that this boost in status and perception remains something we can keep building on, we Sommeliers also need to convey that this is actually pretty hard work and has little to do with being fashionable or cool.
As for Europe, it seems evident that we are heading down the same path USA has already gone down, although we are a few years behind. The restaurant scene in a place like Stockholm already has more in common with New York than Milano. One problem however is a lack of a common certification. There are so many pins and badges of different colors that no one really knows what you are getting when the sommelier approaches. With a serious and widespread certification, employers and guests would know roughly what level of professionalism to expect. From there we can let personality and style shine through. Judging by the international course schedule, the next step for the CMS seems to be to conquer Asia, but I hope a general campaign in Europe lies somewhere in the future as well.
If anyone wants to try a stint in Europe (with the added bonus of being closer to some pretty decent vineyards) we would be happy to have you!
Arvid Rosengren is a Swedish sommelier currently living and working out of Copenhagen, Denmark as Wine Director for a restaurant group Copenhagen Concepts, that has eight restaurants in Denmark and the United Kingdom. He won the title ”The Best Sommelier of Europe” in San Remo, Italy in 2013 and is in training for the next Best Sommelier of the World competition which is to be held in Mendoza, Argentina in 2016.
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We should also compare the differences between Canada and the two, as there are numerous differences that we see even with CMS. Great article though. Very insigtful
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Great article, Arvid. Balanced and well thought out. As someone who has straddled both sides of the Atlantic in my personal and professional life (although not in the wine business), I can see similar parallels and confirm many of your observations in other business, cultural and social settings. Thank you for the post!
Interesting and very true article!
However, the CMS don't organize all the courses in the UK. In 2013 they held courses in Austria, Germany and Turkey and are planning to organize more courses outside the UK soon.
Thanks for the post!
Piotr