Was this comment meant to appease a specific group of people at a Sauv Blanc Convention or is he trying to start a revolution?
I guess I understand some of what he's saying about generalizations not necessarily matching people and specific dishes, but then he goes off topics and starts talking about arrogant categorization, so I'm having trouble following his entire argument. Having spent hours finding the best pairing for a dish at times, I think I can comfortably say I disagree with this type of sentiment.
I'm also having difficulty with that argument. Yes, to an extent there are no "food and wine pairings" exclusive to France, or Italy, or Spain for that matter, but if you look at the wine they produce in a specific area, and then look at the food that is produced in the same area, there is something to be said about those "Pairings" If you are in Alsace and ordering any local specialties at a restaurant, say any pork dishes like Choucroute Alascienne, or one of their lovely savory tarts, the wines that are made there represent a traditional pairing. If I'm in Alsace and ordering these dishes, I'm not looking for Cote Rotie or Super Tuscan bottle. So to flat out say there is literally no wine pairing happening there I feel is absurd. The food and wine by their very nature are a Pairing. Same goes with Italy and Spain, and any regions with a long, long growing history. I'm not visiting Sicily and while eating locally caught and prepared seafood ordering a wine from Alsace.
Some foods and wines just pair together much, much better than others. If a guest wants a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc with a steak, I'm not going to say no. But do I think that there is something better to enhance the experience for the guest, absolutely.