The sentiments of this article will obviously not be shared by everyone (it’s still ok to like different things, I think), but a few of my favorite lines:
“By their nature, these wines very much open up as they breathe, slowly revealing subtle glories, or else gradually becoming slightly less bad.”
“A wine with a finish like sucking on a grapefruit rind is not a wine to drink for enjoyment. It is a wine to suffer through—the suffering is proof that the drink is morally improving—and then to enjoy talking about. The talking is the proof of the drinker’s good taste.”
My favorite quotes.
"Its finish prompted the question, “Is that a note of melon or is it a hint of Goodyear rubber?”
"Recently, in Food & Wine, a bar owner in Boston complimented an offering with a comparison to the morning-after mouthfeel of a tobacco binge: “It tastes like you spent the entire night before just ripping cigarettes.” The severity of orange wine’s structure and taste presents an especially dramatic example of aggressions against taste buds.
I found it hard to pick a favorite quote. I don't have strong feelings about orange wine, but the writer really captured some of the off-putting attitudes that seem to orbit the beverage with sentences like "...but her tasting companions, being hard-core orange-wine guys, dissed its extreme pleasantness as unserious."
Unsurprisingly it has offended people who are professionally invested in promoting natural wine at all costs.
I've had skin contact wines that I've scored at 95 points and others that have literally make me feel like vomiting. It's a broad range and much is made about wines that are little more than a sloppy pile of grapes tossed into a kvevri or even a plastic tub and passed off as something transcendent.
But more than anything, it's an honest opinion from a regular, non-industry wine drinker in a sexy wine market and there's a lot to take away from that.
Pretty damn funny. Honestly, though, you could pretty easily replace every instance of orange wine in the article with “Barolo” and it would still likely ring true. Not every wine is supposed to glau glau.
Totally trade you a case of orange wines for a case of Barolo!
I guess I just don't get it. Honestly, I feel like wine consumers are being marketed the must and being told they should be interested in it. The "slightly less bad" has been my reaction to every "good" orange wine I've tried. Then again. maybe it just isn't for me. :-)