Anyone drink a bottle of Clos de Mesnil over the holidays after our last discussion? I hope you did! Thanks to Xoel Cantero Alvarez, Brandon Ford, Dustin Chabert, guildsomm user, Jill Zimorski and Mark Shipway for breaking it down for us.
This week let's keep up the theme: Clos de Goisses
Tell us its history. Where is it located? What are the soils like? Who makes it? What is the current release? What was the first vintage? What grapes is it composed of?
Clos de Goisses is referred to as the "greatest vineyard site in all of Champagne" by Peter Liem. The Philipponnat house was established in 1910 when the family acquired its 18th century cellars. The first vintage of Clos de Goisses was 1935. Not only does it emphasize intensity and freshness, but it comes from a single, completely walled 5.5 ha vineyard with south-facing 45 degree slopes above the Marne river. "Gois" is local dialect referring to a "steep slope." This bottling was significant because it argued that Champagne can be made from a single site with expressive terroir as opposed to blending of vineyards as has been the tradition for centuries. This was and still is a statement wine.
Philipponnat emphasizes Pinot Noir in their cepage due to its historical significance in the region as well as to offer character, complexity, and intensity to the wines. They farm lutte raisonnee and are certified H.V.E.
Soils: pure Chalk
Who Makes It: Charles Philipponnat (took over in '99, family growing in Champagne since 1522)
Current Release/Cepage: Clos de Goisses 2009 (61% PN, 39% Chard, 19,000 bottles made, typically extra-brut dosage, malo blocked)
Clos de Goisses "Juste Rose" 2007 (55% PN, 45% Chard, 2-3k bottles made each vintage, malo blocked)