This is the first installment of a three-part series on the wines from Southwest France, a huge area that begins at the Basque border and runs northeast past Toulouse, all the way to Rodez in the Aveyron department. Driving on the autoroute at 70 miles an hour, this west-to-east journey of 360 miles would take approximately 5 hours. To put this into perspective, driving from Chablis to Mâcon in Burgundy takes about half that time on the autoroute, and driving from Strasbourg to Mulhouse in Alsace takes about 2 hours. The only other wine region in France of similar expanse is the Loire Valley.
The Southwest is often erroneously associated with appellations that run along the Mediterranean. While often lumped together, the Southwest has absolutely nothing in common with the Languedoc-Rousillon or Provence and should never be compared to those regions. The soils do not resemble each other, the climate is extremely different, and the varieties of grapes could not be further apart. Attempting to compare the Southwest with the Languedoc or Provence is about as ludicrous as comparing Châteauneuf-du-Pape with the Mosel. Lumping them together is akin to associating Arizona with North Carolina simply because they both lie in the southern part of the United States!
The Southwest can be divided into three distinct regions:
All told, within the diverse Southwest expanse lie 27 appellations, the majority of which use grapes not found elsewhere. The fact that both the appellations and the grapes are largely unknown is but one of the problems the region experiences. The names of the regions are often hard to pronounce, and the highly acidic and tannic nature of its grapes create other complications. A final difficulty is the remoteness of the region for importers and visitors alike: eight hours from Paris and two hours from Bordeaux, the area is simply isolated from many other wine regions in France.
Yet wines from the Southwest appellations exhibit tremendous personality, distinction and value. There are bottlings from Madiran made from pre-phyllorera Tannat vines and aged in new oak available for under $25 a bottle. Old vine Petit Manseng, harvested in November along impossibly steep slopes, for half the price and twice the interest of Sauternes. Or full-bodied rosés from Irouléguy whose richness makes you consider how frivolous many pink techno wines actually are.
In the interest of full disclosure, I do import many wines from Southwest France into the US, including some of the recommended producers below.
Madiran: The Prince of Darkness, Harvester of Sorrow
All roads lead to Madiran.
Over the past thirty years, Madiran is the appellation of the Pyrénées that has experienced the most worldwide acclaim. Mostly located in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques département (but also spilling into Gers and Hautes-Pyrénées), the landscape is covered with varied polycultural squares, including green cornfields, golden wheat plots, deep green vines and yellow sunflowers spread along the rolling hills. While most grape growers no longer have cows or ducks as a source of income, many still practice polyculture and have parcels of land cultivated for crops other than grapes.
Madiran is the name of a town that lies about 35 miles from the Pyrénées range, and on a clear day the peaks along the chain are clearly visible. Their influence is felt mostly at the end of the growing season when warmer temperatures continue through October and even November. Heading west, the Atlantic Ocean is about 50 miles away, and its proximity attracts a good amount of rainfall during the winter and spring.
Madiran achieved appellation status in 1948, but in the next few ensuing decades, very few producers bottled their own wines and the majority of them were sold in bulk to négociants, who usually blended them with wines from other parts of France. Their deep color and dense structure added body and grip to lighter, over-cropped wines from elsewhere. Locals appreciated the way Madiran worked with the local cuisine—wild pigeons, cèpe (porcini) mushroom stews and, of course, duck.
Madiran experienced a revolution in the 1980s, driven by Alain Brumont at his Château Bouscasse and Château Montus. He employed higher percentages of the local grape Tannat and paid more attention to the raw materials in the vineyard and the winery, managing to produce wines that caught the attention of the worldwide wine press. Before long, many young producers were following suit. New barrels married well with the rustic grape. The molecular chain of Tannat, when exposed to new oak, polymerized its tannins into larger molecules to create a wine that the palate perceived as being softer, more accessible and less rustic.
Micro-oxygenation (micro-ox, micro-bullage), the slow addition of oxygen to either a tank or barrel of wine, was developed in the Madiran region in the early nineties by Patrick Ducournau with help from his cousin Jean-Luc Laplasse. Originally the concept was used to keep the lees fresh, thus avoiding reductive aromas and the need for excessive racking. It later became a method to promote the aging of tannic red wine so that it was more accessible at a younger age. While the technique is now used all over the world, most Madiran producers no longer use it in their barrels, preferring to inject doses of oxygen into their tanks, thus avoiding the risk of prematurely oxidizing their wines.
In the current millenium, health studies have shown that Tannat, because of its exceptionally rich content of polyphenols, plays an essential part in protecting against cardio-vascular disease. The message is clear: drink Madiran! You will live forever!
Stats: The Madiran appellation covers 1,273 hectares, making it about the same size as Pauillac. Maximum yield is 55 hl/ha. All grapes must be destemmed before vinification. Madiran may not be marketed until the first November following the harvest. Annual production is just under 62,000 hectoliters (7,750,000 bottles).
Soil: Clay is the major soil-type in Madiran. Clay retains water well and provides a perfect base for rich, fleshy wines. Three different variations of clay exist in the region: nearly pure clay with very little stone is found in the western part of the appellation; the eastern terrain has clay mixed with iron and magnesium, which often give the wines a more meaty character along with solid tannin; and other areas have sand mixed with clay and small chunks of limestone, which helps give rounder wines that are evolve faster. An impenetrable subsoil called greppe (huge limestone slabs) underlies the entire region.
The Grapes: Four grapes are grown in Madiran, led by Tannat. Once spelled "Tanat," the word means tanned in the Occitan language, in reference to either its deeply-hued leaves or intensely dark grapes. As its name implies, Tannat’s deep skins and small grapes produce wines with high tannins (as well as high acids). Tannat (one of two palindrome grapes!) necessitates careful pruning to limit yields and must be harvested late in order to achieve phenological ripeness (typically during the first couple weeks of October). When mature, red fruit notes may surface but the flavors are normally dominated by brooding black fruits. Tannat must compose at least 50% of a Madiran wine. Cabernet Sauvignon is also widely grown in the region. Part of the Carmenet family and Cabernet Franc x Sauvignon Blanc crossing, Cabernet Sauvignon also produces wines with ample color, tannin and acidity, and a distinctive blackcurrant flavor. Cabernet Franc (which some locals call Bouchy) is also a member of the Carmenet family. Cabernet Franc ripens a little earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat, and usually has a perfume that evokes raspberries—something that adds both lightness and perfume to the beefy Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon. However, many producers now feel that Cab Franc overly dilutes Tannat and have replaced it with Cabernet Sauvignon. The final grape grown in Madiran, although so much in decline that it now makes up just 1% of the plantings, is Fer Servadou, known locally as Pinenc. Fer Servadou was once widely grown around the Southwest but has largely been abandoned everywhere except in Marcillac, where, under the name Mansois, it is the dominant variety. Fer is part of the Carmenet family of grapes and, when ripe, gives aromas of red fruits, cassis, pepper and spice. When under-ripe, its aromas are vegetal, like those of underripe Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc.
The Wines: Madiran wines have a color that is nearly impenetrable and, even with some age, show very little lightening along their rims. A glass filled with a third Madiran and two-thirds water will generally have a darker color than most red wines on their own. The aromas of Madiran are rarely precise: they will display notes of deep, brooding fruit with a nod toward blackcurrant or perhaps blackberry. If we scratch the surface of the dense fruit, an iron- and blood-like richness usually becomes evident. When aged in oak, some vanilla and mocha-like notes will add complexity. Here are some aromas that one might look for when attempting to identify Madiran: Blackcurrant, cocoa, graphite, blackberry, red cherry, prune, blood, iron, menthol, orange peel, sandalwood, tobacco and spice.
Food Pairing: Madiran is not a wine for those interested in elegance and finesse; Madiran is a wine about power, weight and density. Madiran is not a second serve with topspin: Madiran is Novak Djokovic coming at you with a 150-mile-an-hour blast that you attempt to get a racket on. Madiran is not a dancer, it’s a rugby player. I bet that if cavemen drank wine when they were standing around a fire half-naked, ripping raw shards of meat off a freshly killed, prehistoric animal, they would drink wines like Madiran. Madiran attacks, Madiran stains, Madiran takes no prisoners…
Let’s understand that Madiran is not a wine that you have as an apéritif. Madiran might not be the best wine with a chicken breast or veal chop either. But Madiran is a wonderful match for high-protein foods that have a lot of fat around the edges and plenty of flavor. The département in which Madiran lies is the largest producer of duck in France, and the number one producer of foie gras. Foie (liver) is one part of the bird, but the rest is also used: legs for confit, breast for magret and wings in bean preparations like cassoulet. Its cracklings are frequently spread on toast and its carcasses grilled over coals. Because the duck in the Southwest has been force-fed at the end of its life to enlarge its liver, its layer of fat and richness of meat develops more than ducks raised by other means, with a deeper, gamier flavor and chewier texture than duck ordinarily found in the United States.
With a thick, rare slice of duck breast topped with a half inch of crispy fat, wines with a lighter structure (Pinot Noir, etc.) quiver and cry out for mommy. These richly structured proteins require richly structured wines, whose forward tannins converge and allow brooding fruit to surface, bloom and glide across the palate.
Try to think nose-to-tail with Madiran. Serve it with organ meats (liver, tripe, tongue), blood sausage, wild hare, venison, wild boar or game birds. For a bit more mainstream approach, try cuts of lamb that are stronger in taste and fattier, like the leg or shoulder, or cuts of beef like the tri-tip or flank (preferably grass-fed). I think Madiran works extremely well with barbecued brisket or smoked sausage, provided they are not too spicy. Let’s go further: hearty bean dishes like cassoulet, a fatty duck breast or a bubbling lamb moussaka. Just because Madiran is big and mean-looking doesn’t mean you need to be afraid of it. It could become your best friend.
Aging Madiran: Because of the high acidity and tannin of Tannat, Madiran has what it takes to age over the course of a couple of decades. The question remains: “does the wine age gracefully during that period?” My experience is that the wine begins to lighten gradually at the rim and some tannin begins to shed away, leaving us with fruit that is still dark but less brooding. The wines seem to follow the path of a Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux, like an Haut-Médoc, with complex, earthy elements that complement its black fruits. I tend to prefer younger Madiran, that is between three and ten years old—especially when made with riper grapes and a judicious amount of oak. These show dense fruit enveloped by more tamed tannins and sexy vanilla notes. Big wines, yes, but those that can revitalize the senses, awaken the palate and display fruit that is not only rich but also creamy.
Recommended Madiran Producers
Domaine Capmartin: Guy Capmartin had certain ideas that he wanted to pursue during the early 1980s (higher percentages of Tannat in the blend, longer macerations, more new oak) that his father wouldn’t permit, so he decided to create his own domaine just up the road. It now covers 18 hectares and became certified organic in 2010. His Vieilles Vignes cuvée, made with Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon vines between 60 and 150 years of age, and aged in second- and third-use oak, is big and spicy and offers excellent value. The Cuvée de Couvent, named after the old convent next to the winery, is made with pure Tannat and aged entirely in new oak. This is a great wine to put away for ten years to see what will develop. Imported by Charles Neal Selections (various states).
Domaine Labranche-Laffont: Christine Dupuy is one of the few women winemakers in Madiran and she owns the 20-hectare Domaine Labranche-Laffont in Maumusson (Gers). Fresh out of enology school, she took over the domaine in 1992 after the death of her father. As the harvest nears, she continuously tastes grapes and their seeds to get the ripest tannins possible. She makes a couple of red wines and a couple of white Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh as well. The Vieilles Vignes cuvée, made with the oldest vines on the property (including some vines planted before phylloxera), is deep in both color and fruit and has big but manageable tannin. Importers include Barrique Imports (WA), Vintage 59 Imports (CA), Wine Without Borders (NC), MS Walker (NY and NJ), Bacchus (DC area).
Domaine Berthoumieu: Didier Barré was one of the new wave of vignerons inspired by Alain Brumont in the early 80s. He sustainably farms 26 hectares of vines in Viella, along the Gers/Pyrenee Atlantique border. His Charles de Batz cuvée, named after the muskateer D’Artignan, is made with 90% Tannat and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. A 30-day fermentation with punchdowns is followed by a year in new and second-use barrels. It shows brooding dark fruit, vanilla and prune flavors. MCM, made with Tannat grapes planted in 1900, is dense yet savory. Importers include PS Wines (OR), Charles Neal Selections (various states), and Aventine Hill (CT).
Château d’Aydie: Frederic Laplasse founded this domaine in 1927 and his four grandchildren now run this large 58-hectare domaine in the central part of the appellation. Jean-Luc Laplasse is one of the more innovative producers in the region: he helped develop micro-oxygenation, and introduced high-density plantings to allow for more concentrated grapes. The domaine produces a number of different wines that hit a wide variety of price points and structure levels. Made with 100% Tannat grown on clay, limestone, gravel, and stony soils, the Château d’Aydie Madiran is aged in tank and barrel for 12 to 15 months then held for another six months before being released. It is dark, solid and has a glycerin-rich texture that oozes notes of black fruits, coffee and vanilla. Possible to drink now with the appropriate foods, this wine should age gracefully for a decade. It is worth mentioning that the Laplasse family also vinifies the wines from Patrick Ducournau’s properties, Chapelle Lenclos and Domaine Mouréou. Ducournau, along with his micro-oxygenation company, also has a warehouse that produces wood chips (from which he makes more money than he could ever imagine as a winemaker). Importers include Cream Wine (IL), LVDH (metro DC area), Polaner Wines (NY and NJ), The Wine Company (MN) and Vins du Midi (OR).
Domaine Bouscassé and Château Montus: One can’t ignore the importance that Alain Brumont has had on the Madiran appellation. In fact, a strong argument could be made that if it weren’t for Brumont, the Madiran appellation would be about as well known as Saussignac. Son of a vigneron, young Alain inherited the 17-hectare Bouscassé property in 1979. Largely self-taught, he began employing Bordeaux techniques into his winemaking, and started to include new oak and higher proportions of Tannat. The following year, the driven Brumont purchased the nearby Château Montus. Brumont presented the 1982 to the Madiran syndicate who barely awarded it the appellation because of its lack of typicity. Nevertheless, Brumont followed his instincts and released the 1985 Montus to high acclaim. His fame exploded when an independent panel sliped the wine into a Grand Cru Bordeaux tasting, where it finished in the top three. Since that time, Gault-Milau magazine selected him as their 1980s Winemaker of the Decade (following Guigal in the 70s) and Revue des Vins de France chose him as Winemaker of the Year in 1995. Since his start, Brumont has acquired 355 hectares in Madiran and also vinifies 220 hectares in the Côtes de Gascogne, marketing 23 different wines from his properties. He has several modern wineries, some 80 employees and, at 67 years old, still sleeps only five hours a night while inspiring those around him during the day. His tireless efforts to promote the region and his wines have brought worldwide attention to the appellation from writers and sommeliers who have come to view the regional wines as world class contenders rather than rustic country wines. Highlights include Torus, an openly fruity blend of the three grapes made at a coop that Brumont unofficially directs, Bouscassé Vieilles Vignes, made with 100% Tannat and showing profound black fruits that glide along an elegant texture, and the Montus Cuvée Prestige, another 100% Tannat wine that, because of its stonier soil, is highly structured and built for the long haul. Imported by Vigneron Imports (various states) and J & J Importers (various states).
Chateau Barrejat: Domaine Barrejat was founded by Maurice Capmartin, but with his older son’s departure, it is has been run for the past couple of decades by his other son Denis. 80% of the domaine’s vines produce red grapes, and some of them easily predate the phylloxera period. The Vieux Ceps release comes from 80- to 200-year-old vines and is made with 80% Tannat and 20% Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc. Aged in new oak, it has notes of preserved black fruits, exotic vanilla and ripe tannin that builds on the finish. Imported by Europvin (various states).
Top to bottom: Alain Brumont, Pre-phylloxera vines at Domaine Barrejat, Jean-Luc Laplasse
Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh
Also established in 1948, this curiously named appellation shares the exact borders with Madiran, but is only for white wine. As we’ll see in Jurançon, dry wines are released as Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec, and sweet wines as Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Doux. Most claim that the name Pacherenc comes from the phrase piques en rang ("poles in a row"), in which vines along the rolling hills were attached to wooden stakes in rows, instead of being planted in the random, haphazard traditional style. Vic-Bilh derives from the local patois and means "old country." Alternatively, some claim that Pacherenc is a synonym for Arrufiac, which was once the most important white grape in the region. Today, Pacherenc is greatly overshadowed by Madiran production, and only 20% of the region’s wine is white. None of the 45 producers in the region make only Pacherenc; they all make Madiran as well.
Like in Jurançon, sweet wines traditionally dominated the appellation, but dry wines have become more important in concert with consumption trends. Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng (more on these later) are almost always employed, along with a hefty percentage of Petit Courbu and the local Arrufiac. Part of the Carmenet ampelographic group, Arrufiac can bring fine floral aromas and bright acidity to blends, along with a hint of tannic grip. Its bunches are big, yet its grapes are quite small, and it is susceptible to mildew and gray and black rot. While it has been greatly overshadowed by Courbu and the Mansengs, some producers like the masculine complexity that Arrufiac lends to their blends. In addition, Sauvignon Blanc can be employed in the wines, but its usage cannot exceed 10% of the wine.
Dry Pacherenc is less racy than dry Jurançon. These wines can be quirky, with flavors reminiscent of the white underripe part of a pineapple, a hint of flowers and plenty of citrus-tinged acidity. They are usually aged in stainless steel; however, when oak is judiciously employed an extra layer of complexity can be achieved. Sweet Pacherenc delivers similar flavors to the wines of sweet Jurançon, albeit with less acidity and cut. They are normally less expensive than Jurançon as well, which certainly has appeal to many consumers. The wines ordinarily exhibit caramelized pineapple notes, moderate sugar levels (60-80 grams per liter), and enough acidity to support the sugar. The wines will age well for several years, but are generally to be drunk within five years of release.
Stats: The Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh vineyards cover the same territory as the Madiran appellation, but 260 hectares are currently planted with white grapes (about the same amount as Quincy in the Loire). Maximum yield is 60 hl/ha for the dry wines and 40 hl/ha for the sweet wines. Production is about 10,500 hectoliters (1,312,000 bottles) a year.
Recommended Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Producers
Château d’Aydie: The Odé d’Aydie Pacherenc Sec is made with 60% Petit Manseng and 40% Gros Manseng. Aged in both tank and barrel, it shows notes of exotic fruit and vanilla, and possesses a lovely, elegant texture, finishing with good length.
Domaine Bouscassé: Alain Brumont makes his dry Pacherenc from 100% Petit Courbu and ages it in stainless steel, letting it rest for two years on its fine lees. It is fresh, medium- to full-bodied, and refreshes the palate with pineapple and citrus notes before finishing with excellent length. His sweet Pacherenc, from pure Petit Manseng harvested in November, is aged in new oak and shows preserved pineapple and crème brulée flavors, with enough supporting acidity to invite another sip.
Domaine Berthoumieu: Didier Barré’s Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Symphonie d’Automne, made with 90% Petit Manseng and 10% Petit Coubu (grapes harvested between November and December), shows notes of acacia flowers, pineapple and toast.
Domaine Laffitte-Teston: This venerable producer, located next to Chateau Bouscassé, also makes excellent red wines. His dry Cuvée Ericka, named after after proprietor Jean-Marc Laffitte’s daughter, is made with 70% Petit Manseng, 20% Gros Manseng and 10% Petit Courbu, all of which are harvested late and vinified dry. Aged in a good proportion of new oak, this wine explodes with pineapple and citrus notes, given complexity by accompanying vanilla and toasty flavors. Imported by Wine Traditions (various states).
Jurançon
If Madiran is the king of red wines in the Pyrénées, then Jurançon is the king of whites. In fact, Jurançon has regal connections: legend claims that in 1553, Henry IV, later King of France, had garlic rubbed on his lips followed by a few drops of Jurançon sweet wine during his baptism. The ritual was said to enhance his vigor and catapulted Jurançon to became known as the noble wine of French kings.
Jurançon is also the name of a town that sits a few miles south of Pau, the city known as the gateway to the Pyrénées. Cycling fans are often treated to a Tour de France stage start or finish in this city of 85,000 people, who consider themselves Bearnais rather than Basque or Gascon. Local cuisine combines the two regions, with plenty of duck-based dishes echoing Gascony, and plenty of ham and sheep’s milk cheeses recalling the Pays Basque.
Most producers divide Jurançon into two zones which lie at opposite sides of the appellation: La Chapelle de Rousse and Monein. Along the ridges above the town of Jurançon, around a third of the appellation’s producers are located near the village La Chapelle de Rousse. Many of the vineyards in this area are carved into the hillsides, creating what looks like amphitheaters curving along the slopes. This helps give the vines maximum sun exposure along the steep pitches. Because of its higher altitude (vineyards are often at 300 to 400 meters), wines from this area tend to have the highest acidity in the region. Soils around La Chapelle de Rousse are arid, with layers of baseball-sized pudding stones embedded into the soil. These provide excellent drainage for the vines, and also help promote considerable structure and acidity.
About 30 kilometers northwest lie the vineyards surrounding the town of Monein, around which the majority of Jurançon's winemakers are located. Many of these producers also grow other crops or raise cattle, and sell their grapes to the cooperative in Gan. Soils around Monein are richer than La Chapelle de Rousse, composed of clay mixed with limestone galets and sandstone molasse. Monein has an altitude about 150 meters lower than La Chapelle de Rousse, and the vineyards generally follow the contours of the hills rather than being dug into them. The lower altitude allows for a milder climate and also gives the wines slightly less acidity than those from the more southerly La Chapelle, with harvest occurring two to three weeks earlier here as well.
The vines in both zones usually face south and are trained six or seven feet high, to avoid damage from spring frosts and to maximize sun exposure within the sometimes gray and moist foothills. The appellation decree warrants, as in Irouléguy, that the grapes are harvested by hand.
Jurançon, like the other appellations in the Pyrénées, is influenced by both an oceanic climate (with some 1,200 mm. of annual rain) and a mountainous climate (with warm winds from North Africa traversing the mountains during the months of September, October and early November). These Foehn winds allow growers to leave fruit on the vines late in the season until it shrivels and concentrates the sugar within the grapes, creating some of the world’s finest and unique dessert wines. About 60% of Jurançon’s production is sweet (released as Jurançon), with the remaining 40% of the grapes vinified dry and released as Jurançon Sec.
Stats: The Jurançon vineyards cover 932 hectares (about the size of Tavel). Maximum yield is 40 hl/ha for the sweet wines and 60 hl/ha for the dry wines. Hand-harvesting is obligatory. Production is about 50,000 hectoliters of wine a year (6,250,000 bottles).
The Grapes: Out of all the Pyrénées appellations, Jurançon has the most rare and unique grapes, seldom seen elsewhere. Petit Manseng makes up 40% of the plantings and is a grape capable of developing high sugar levels without losing its crisp, refreshing acidity. Petit Manseng can either be picked earlier for dry wines or later for sweet wines. Its versatility (and often its aromatics) remind many tasters of demi-sec or sweet Chenin Blanc, albeit with less apple nuance and chalky minerality. The hallmark of Petit Manseng is its balance of exotic sweetness and elevated acidity that rarely make the wines come across as cloying. Typical aromas include pineapple (often the white rather than golden part of the fruit) and, with aging, more tropical notes including papaya, mango, and truffles. A grape used principally for late-harvested sweet wines, its small yet loosely-formed grapes combined with thick skins inhibit the botrytis fungus from developing. In fact, the because of the region’s high altitude and lack of fog-attracting rivers, noble rot never affects these late-harvest wines. Instead, concentration is gained through the technique of passerillage, when the vine stems are pinched (often with a pair of pliers) to cut off circulation, allowing the grapes to stay on the vine and further dehydrate. While most grapes for sweet wines will be harvested in October, some are harvested as late as November or early December. Gros Manseng is a grape whose existence was documented in the late 1700s and today makes up 55% of the region’s plantings. Its leaves are larger than those of Petit Manseng, and its larger grapes are also more susceptible to mildew and esca (the wood-rotting fungus). Gros Manseng is largely used today for dry wines aged in stainless steel, wherein its golden color offers aromas of passionfruit and flowers with plenty of buttressing acidity. Many producers make their basic dry wines from pure, tank-aged Gros Manseng, and another, more gastronomic cuvée blending the two Mansengs, often aged in oak. Gros Manseng is to be found more and more in the nearby Côtes de Gascogne, where its higher alcohol tends to flesh out and add complexity to those wines made with Ugni Blanc and Colombard. Petit Courbu produces small grapes in very tight bunches that resemble pine cones. Petit Courbu grapes are more tightly packed than the Mansengs and are highly susceptible to gray rot. While difficult to find in the region nowadays, some growers like it because its lower alcohol and acidity tames that of the higher Mansengs. Gros Courbu, often abreviated as simply Courbu (a variation of the French word courbe or curve, a reference to its curved vine shoots), gives less alcohol and higher yields than its sibling Petit Courbu. Although not much is planted anymore, Courbu Blanc can be recognized because of its darker leaves, especially during the spring season. It can be used for either sweet or dry wines. Camaralet (Camaralet de la Soube) is another grape not often seen, but a few winemakers have recently replanted this grape; it gives good levels of alcohol and good body but less complexity than the Mansengs. It is very susceptible to rot during flowering, and thus very irregular in its production. Producers who have this grape often claim its planting may have been a mistake as they only get one decent harvest every few years! Lauzet, a highly productive vine that has good resistance to gray rot, is another grape that has nearly disappeared. Never seen on its own, it works well in blends because of its rich alcohol and spice notes. Like Camaralet, Petit Courbu and Gros Courbu, Lauzet is harvested before either of the Mansengs.
The Dry Wines: Dry Jurançon was not seen in the region until the 1960s and 1970s, when consumers began demanding drier wines and the cooperative realized that immediate consumption made the appellation more financially viable. Jurançon Sec was granted status under the appellation in 1975. Two types of cuvées are often made by producers. The first type, pure Gros Manseng aged in stainless steel, is usually quite simplistic with notes of passionfruit and apple flavors balanced by very taught acidity. These wines, like Muscadet or Txocholi, are excellent with shellfish or white river fish. The second type of Jurançon Sec is much more interesting, both aromatically and texturally. These wines usually see two or three grape varieties blended together and are often aged in barrel, which marries their exotic fruit nuances to the vanilla and spice flavors imparted by the oak. These are kinky wines; they smell sweet but intense acids enable the wines to finish completely dry. Food accompaniments here move up a notch: meaty white fish in a sauce, scallops, lobster, veal sweetbreads, pork roast with exotic fruits, or a veal tajine.
The Sweet Wines: The region’s most traditional wines are normally made with 50-80% Gros Manseng. These wines generally have 40-50 grams per liter of residual sugar and are referred to locally as vins de l’apres-midi (wines of the afternoon). The Béarnais might drink these wines while playing cards on Saturday evening or after an afternoon walk on Sunday. They are the most common apéritif wine in the region, with aromas ranging from spicy apple to pineapple, and acids that keep the texture from becoming too heavy (think somewhere between Spätlese and Auslese Riesling). A glass of this style of Jurançon is very pleasant with biscotti or almond cookies. More modern styles are usually much richer in sugar than their traditional counterparts (90 grams per liter or so) and have a thicker texture. Usually made with pure Petit Manseng and aged in newer oak, these wines have deeper and more exotic fruit nuance, and their weight is always buttressed by the lovely Manseng acids. Most of these cuvées are given a proprietary name by their producers, such as Supreme, Magendia or Extreme, and they have long potential lifespans, normally up to 25 or 30 years when cellared properly. Flavors in Jurançon sweet wines, which must be considered among the world’s elite, include dried pear, tea, nougat, caramel, golden raisins, preserved lemon, dried fig, vanilla, hazelnuts, preserved mandarine, black truffles, white truffles, almonds, mango, papaya, guava, pineapple, brown sugar, creme brulée, preserved orange, cinnamon, clove, acacia and honeysuckle.
A growing trend in years (when weather allows it) is for growers to push the late harvest card and leave the grapes on the vines until the end of November or early December, arriving with wines in the 135-150 g/l range of residual sugar, whose viscosity and sweetness never feels too heavy or cloying. Such wines can be labeled "Vendanges Tardives."
Food Pairings for Sweet Jurançon: The classic match for foie gras is a sweet wine. Sauternes is the usual suspect but, because of its bright acids, Jurançon actually works better because it is able to cut through some of the foie’s richness. It would obviously work as well with many desserts containing some of the above flavors, provided that the dessert is less sweet than the wine.
Recommended Jurançon Producers
Clos Lapeyre: Jean-Bernard Larrieu is a well liked and frequently written about vigneron located in La Chapelle de Rousse. In the past decade he has converted his 17-hectare property from sustainable to organic viticulture—not an easy task with the region’s tremendous humidity. Jean-Bernard makes three dry whites, including Vitage Vielh ("old vine" in Occitan), the product of 65-year-old Manseng(s) and Courbu vines. Aging takes place in 400-liter barrels and foudre, yielding a wine with bright pineapple, vanilla and mineral complexity. Montoulon is made with 70% Petit Manseng, along with Petit Courbu and Camaralet, and is grown in a more recently planted, high-density vineyard. Aged entirely in new oak, this wine is full-bodied, complex and very long. The sweet Magendia is made with pure Petit Manseng, harvested after passerillage, with the ripest bunches cut after several passes through the vineyard. Bursting with exotic fruits (guava, dried pineapple) and a hint of creme brulée, this wine retains great acidity that prevents it from being cloying. Imported by Charles Neal Selections (various states), Savio Soares and Fruit of the Vine (New York) and Oz Wines (MA).
Carmin Laredya: This 9-hectare domaine is located next to Clos Lapeyre in La Chapelle de Rousse. Jean-Marc Grussaute has assumed control over the forty-year-old vines his father had planted on terraced, amphitheater-shaped slopes. His dry wine, called La Part Davan, is made with 60% Petit Manseng, 25% Gros Manseng and 15% Petit Courbu aged in foudre. It has bright acids that help lift the white peach and floral aromas. His Jurançon sweet wine is delicious, made with a bit more Petit Manseng than Gros Manseng. Emphasizing peach more than pineapple, its 60 grams of residual sugar make it a great apéritif or partner to brebis cheese. The moelleux Au Capceu is made with 100% Petit Manseng and fermented and aged in new barrels. It shows thick pineapple fruit buttressed by bright acids that will ensure a graceful development in bottle. Imported by Wine Traditions (various states).
Domaine Cauhapé: Henri Ramonteu is a bit to Jurançon what Alain Brumont is to Madiran—a pioneering producer and a very talented winemaker whose exceptional sweet wines were among the first of the appellation to enjoy worldwide press. He was the first in the appellation to make white wines in oak and to barrel-ferment his sweet wines, and has always been open to ideas from outside the region that might make his wines better (his son owns a winery in New Zealand called Dada). With 43 hectares, Cauhapé (pronounced Cow-ho-pay) is two or three times the size of other Jurançon domaines. Cauhapé often employs maceration pelliculaire (cold soak) with plenty of skin contact to augment aromatic potential for his dry whites, and uses attractive modern packaging. The Chant des Vignes Sec, made with Gros Manseng and 40% Camaralet, has plenty of grapefruit and primary aromas, with just a hint of residual sugar. The Seve d’Automne Sec, made with Gros and Petit Manseng, is harvested later and aged in older barrels, with grapefruit and candied-fruit flavors. The Ballet d’Octobre is old-school Jurançon with great balance between sugar and acid and is a nice partner to spicy Asian-influenced dishes. The Nobelsse du Temps is made with pure Petit Manseng, picked in December. Dried pineapple, brown sugar, creme brulée, hazelnuts and vanilla highlight this awesome sweet wine. The top wine, Quintessence, harvested around Christmas with yields under 10 hl/ha, is a meal in itself, with rich, syrupy fruit buttressed by gentle acidity. Importers include Arborway (MA), Michael Skurnik Wines (NY and NJ), Wine Company (MN), Planet Wines (CA), Bandol Wines (TX).
Clos Uroulat: Son of a vigneron, Charles Hours became the enologist at the cave coopérative in Gan where his father sold grapes. In 1983, Charles bought 3.5 hectares of vines, and within a decade doubled his holdings, built a new chai de vinification, and become one of the region’s producers most touted by France’s wine press. He now organically farms a total of 16 hectares along with his daughter Marie and another partner. Marie has taken a decidedly modern approach to her wines, employing trendy labels and giving her wines names like Happy Hours. Charles is more traditional, making a dry cuvée named after his daughter with pure Gros Manseng aged in oak. Full of juicy fruit, peach, vanilla and bright acids, this is reminiscent of a white Crozes Hermitage and makes a wonderfully accompaniment to rich fish dishes in sauce. The Clos Uroulat sweet wine, made with pure Petit Manseng, is full of pineapple sauteed in butter and vanilla flavors, delicately lifted by bright acids. Imported by Martine’s Wines (various states).
Domaine Bellegarde: A couple of kilometers from Monein, along the same slope as Clos Uroulat, Pascal Labasse sustainably farms 15 hectares covered with silt, clay and pudding stones. He produces two dry and three sweet wines. Pierres Blanches sec, made with 70% Petit and 30% Gros Manseng, has focused pineapple and vanilla flavors and finishes with a touch of spice. Thibault, named after his son who now works alongside him, is his top sweet wine produced in most vintages. Made with pure Petit Manseng and fermented and aged in new oak, this wine offers up flavors of mandarin orange, peach, mango, pineapple and a hint of red fruit. A bottle of 1988 was deep in color, with aromas of roasted pineapple, black truffle and brown sugar, with enough acidity left to warrant a second glass. Imported by Charles Neal Selections (various states).
Vineyards near La Chapelle de Rousse; Jurançon Moelleux from the late 1980s
Irouléguy
When most people think of Basque country, they usually think of Spain. But 15% of the Pays Basque lies within the current French border, running from the coastal towns of Bayonne, St-Jean-de-Luz and Hendaye inland along the Pyrénées. This amazing part of France includes white sand beaches where international surfing competitions take place, as well as sparsely traveled, twisting mountain roads that offer wild, breathtaking views.
The French side of the Basque country has one wine appellation, Irouléguy, tucked within the valley that runs between St-Jean-Pied-de-Port and St-Étienne de Baïgorry, about 50 kilometers from the ocean. This area is famous for its dried Bayonne ham, brebis sheep’s milk cheese and piment d’espelette, a spicy powder made from ground small red peppers.
Romans have made wine in this mountainous region since the 3rd century. Subsequent centuries saw the development of several monasteries in the region, which provided wine for pilgrims traveling along the Route de Saint Jacques that runs from central France and through Northern Spain to Santiago de Campostello. The region’s peak production came during the 17th century, when more than 500 hectares were covered with vines. Mining in the 18th and 19th centuries kept production and consumption levels high. During this period, a wide range of local grape varieties were planted, including Bordelesa Beltza (Tannat), Axeria (Cabernet Franc), Axeria Handia (Cabernet Sauvignon) and white grapes Xuri Zerratia (Courbu), Izkiriota Ttipia (Petit Manseng) and Izkiriota (Gros Manseng) along with the more obscure Kroxenta, Pikapota, Kamalua, Mantzinga, Erre Mantxaua and Pino Beltza.
Phylloxera wiped out many of the vineyards and a decline in industry gave little reason to replant the land. Raising sheep became the preferred livelihood for most farmers, yet many continued to grow grapes and make wine that was either sold in bulk or kept for home drinking. A cooperative was set up in 1958, offering more modern production facilities and an outlet to market the region’s wines. But even the cooperative sold most of its wines in bulk to third-party négociants, who blended them with wines from other regions of France. Just about all the grapes grown were red and included the southwest stalwart Tannat along with Bordeaux varieties Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.
In the 1980s, things began to change within the appellation. Etienne Brana, a wine producer, distiller and négociant in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, began carving terraces into the side of a hillside that followed the curve of the terrain. By creating flat land between the rows, tractors were able to work between the vines, something that enabled producers to double and triple the amount of land they could farm. Before long, terraces began climbing up the sides of the verdant hills, and wine production in Irouléguy dramatically rose. Today about 70% of Irouleguy’s wine is grown on horizontal terraces, while 30% is grown on vines that follow the slopes of the hills. The terraces rise from 100-450 meters above sea level. They cover a number of soil types, all of which give a particular character to the wines. These include limestone, a sedentary rock with calcium and iron that brings roundness and elegance. Orphite, a second soil, is a volcanic rock containing iron oxide that was historically piled under railroad tracks. It brings structure and power to the wines and is found mostly in the southwestern part of the appellation. A third soil, gres rouge, is a metamorphic rock composed principally of quartz and mica, often used to construct door and window frames that adorn the region’s houses. Hard, acidic and red in color, grapes grown on this soil always have bright acidity.
Irouléguy has a climate influenced by both the mountains and the Atlantic. Its hot and dry autumns marked by southern winds help prolong its growing season.
Stats: The Irouléguy vineyards cover 214 hectares (about the size of Volnay). Maximum yield is 55 hl/ha. Production is about 6,400 hectoliters a year (800,000 bottles), of which nearly 90% is red or rosé.
The Grapes: The bulk of production in Irouléguy is red. Most producers have a number of parcels scattered around their villages and their blends often vary widely from year to year, depending on climatic conditions. 2013, for example, will have less Cabernet Franc because of rot at the beginning of the campaign. The stone in the soils gives the reds a mineral quality and delicacy unlike those found in either Béarn or Madiran. The Cabernet Franc influence also makes Irouléguy wines a bit lighter on their feet than their neighbors. That is not to say that Irouléguy is a light, fruity wine—it is still hearty, earthy and somewhat rustic. It simply has more red fruit than its Pyrénées brethren, and is a bit less mid-palate.
The Wines: Red Irouléguy wines normally display a deeply-colored robe that is opaque in its youth. Aromas and flavors typically include wild raspberry, black currant, iron, black cherry, licorice, blood and prune. The wines are medium to full-bodied, with acidity that helps lift the fruit and lighten its tannin. Because of its lighter tannins and bright acids, Irouléguy reds usually work well at the table and are light enough to possibly pour by the glass. They don’t necessitate the strongly flavored meats that Madiran shines with, and make good partners for pork roasts, lamb chops or squab. Rosé has also been popular for some time in the region, aided by the summer demand from la côte Basque. Deep in color, full-bodied and capable of aging, its closest equivalent in France would probably be Tavel—albeit with slightly lower alcohol. These rosés have some tannin to them and are polar opposites to pale, delicate rosés from Provence. Like the Basques themselves, these wines are bold and rugged, characteristics that match perfectly with grilled meats and charcuterie, in summer or in winter.
A tendency over the past decade has been for vignerons to plant more white grapes, notably Petit Manseng and Petit Courbu. These are used for dry white wines that are sometimes aged in older oak barrels. These wines have good texture, with high-pitched floral notes solidified by apple aromas. The dry whites normally take a number of years in bottle to show their best, as they are relatively austere in their youth, and often display apple-malic notes. With two or three years of bottle age, the palate expands to display riper apple, orange and pineapple fruit with an iodine-like salinity. Like many Jurançon wines, Irouléguy whites often have a nose suggests they have some residual sugar, yet on the palate the acids kick in and bring mineral and salty qualities to the very dry finish.
Recommended Irouléguy Producers
Domaine Etxegaraya: Joseph Hillau grew grapes and sold them to the cooperative beginning in 1976. In 1995 he built a winery and began making his own wine on his 7.5-hectare property. In 2006, Joseph unexpectedly died in a tractor accident, leaving his wife Marianne in charge of the domaine. His daughter Carolyne has recently joined her, although they have diminished their vineyard holding to 4.5 hectares. Etxegaraya, meaning the house above, farms sustainably and does not use oak barrels. Their red Classique shows round red and black fruits with integrated tannins and would make a fun glass pour. Lehengoa is made with 80% Tannat from 150-year-old vines. It has more structure and depth than the first wine, although Marianne still recommends drinking it in its first five years of life. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant (various states).
Cave Coopérative d’Irouléguy: The cave has played an important role in the development of wines from the region, making them available to a wider market at an affordable price. Its 130 members average just over a hectare of vines each, and a total of about 650,000 bottles are released each year, divided between 12 different wines. The Argi d’Ansa rosé, made with 80% Tannat and 20% Cabernet Franc, has a beautiful deep color and delicious red fruit and floral notes. The reds are solid, although most are a bit heavy-handed with their usage of oak. Like many co-ops, wines are made according to market tendencies, which perhaps accounts for an unusual sparkling wine, a pale Provencal- colored rosé, and certain bottles with rather shocking modern packaging. Imported by Chrissa Imports (CA).
Domaine Ameztia: Jean-Louis Costera and his nephew Guxan make just over 2,000 cases a year from seven hectares of vines that they farm sustainably. “The right path is the one in which we are not sure of its destination,” Jean-Louis poetically states, proud of the fact that he is often uncertain of the results he will have. His 2011 white wouldn’t ferment drier than 16 grams of sugar, thus denying it the appellation (although, in his opinion, it’s the best wine he’s made to accompany the local brebis). The tight winery is impressive, with a sorting table and a lineup of small stainless steel tanks alongside a few barrels. He used micro-oxygenation for several vintages but has since abandoned it. He looks for elegance in Tannat, stating that the grape is: “A bit like a Basque person. If you scratch it a bit, there is some tenderness underneath.” Imported by de Maison Selections (various states).
Domaine Arretxea: Michel Riouspeyrous began making wine from a couple of hectares of rented vines that he vinified at neighboring Domaine Ilarria in 1989. In 1993 he started his own domaine across the road at Arretxea ("house of stone"). Michel and his wife Thérèse now own eight hectares, and buy grapes from four more. They have been certified organic since 1998 and currently work biodynamically. While producing excellent red wines, they have gained an especially strong reputation for their whites, including Hegoxuri ("white from the south") made with 55% Petit Manseng, 42% Gros Manseng and Petit Courbu. It shows notes of apple and pineapple and, tasted blind, reminds one of Chenin Blanc. In an effort to further understand their terroir, they have also released three whites from the region’s three different soil types, aged in foudre. Vintages with three or four years of bottle age were more aromatic and exotic, with a more mineral and Riesling-like oiliness. The classic red, made with equal proportions of Cabernet Franc and Tannat (with about 15% Cabernet Sauvignon), has plenty of raspberry and strawberry fruit on the nose, a medium-bodied palate with bright acidity, and light finishing tannins. Haitza ("oak") is made with a heavier proportion of Tannat and is aged in 400- and 600-liter barrels for 18 months. It is more dense and has deeper fruit, along with a hint of cassis, mountain herbs, and oak. Imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant (various states).
Domaine Ilarria: Peio Espil founded his domaine in the late 1980s after returning from the peace corps in Africa, and now farms 10 hectares of vines organically. The majority of his vineyards lie on clay and limestone rather than gres rouge, something he feels adds finesse to his wines. Yields are low, usually in the 30 to 35 hl/ha range. His white is made with 60% Petit Courbu and 40% Petit Manseng and sees 12 hours of skin contact. Built to be consumed several years after the harvest, this wine has rich apple-scented fruit, an oily texture and a long, bright finish. His rosé is one of the benchmarks of the region, and is made with Tannat and about 30% Cabernet Franc. It has a deep color, cherry and blood orange-scented fruit and notes of river stones. It is a good rosé to reach for when the weather turns cold. Two reds are made with varying proportions of Tannat, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon (depending upon the harvest), Classique and Bixintxo. The Classique is aged in both tank and a small quantity of older oak barrels. It is weighty yet bright, with integrated tannins: a good by-the-glass candidate. Bixintxo ("St. Vincent") normally includes more Tannat in the blend and undergoes longer aging in older casks, resulting in a denser and more structured wine best reserved for grilled red meats. Imported by PS Wines (various states), Charles Neal Selections (various states).
Domaine Brana: Jean Brana runs this domaine established by his father in 1984, several years before his untimely and sudden death. The Branas were the first to plant vines on steep terraces on a large scale, the first independent producer to sell their wine in bottle, and the first in the region to release a white wine. Just outside of St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the winery stands amidst 20 hectares of hillside slopes that they farm biodynamically. In addition to their own vines, they also incorporate 14 hectares of neighboring vines in their blends. Thanks to their négociant firm established in the late 1800s, the family has better means than most local producers to distribute their wines throughout France and the rest of the world. The Brana family was also one of the first to defend the identity of Cabernet Franc as the region’s original grape, citing historical records that identify the grape in the Basque country before it made its way north to either Bordeaux or the Loire. Because or this, Brana decided to plant large amounts of Cabernet Franc, rather than the popular Tannat, while carving out his terraces in the early 1980s. Since then other producers have ramped up their percentages of Cabernet Franc in their blends, something that has helped give modern Irouléguy a bit more aroma, personality and finesse. As one might expect, a large range of wines are available from chez Brana, including two excellent whites: Ilori and Albedo. The Ilori is a pineapple- and honey-brittle-scented dry wine made with 70% Gros Manseng and 30% Petit Courbu, and aged in tank. The other, Albedo, is made with a 50/50 blend of the Mansengs and is barrel-fermented; it is richer and more flattering. The Domaine Brana red is made with 60% Cabernet Franc, and Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon. It shows plenty of red fruit and a suave, vanilla-laden texture. Jean Brana also vinifies, bottles, and stocks the wine for former Pétrus winemaker Jean-Claude Berrouet, whose Henri Mina is made from just under 3 hectares of white grapes. Domaine Brana imported by Wine Traditions (various states). Henri Mina imported by Martine's (various states).
Marianne Hillau of Domaine Etxegaraya; Vineyards in Irouléguy
There are several other smaller yet distinctive AOPs in the Pyrénées region. While less commonly seen outside France, a few examples of the following smaller appellations are making their way stateside and are worth investigating.
Béarn
After driving about a half hour east of Irouléguy, one leaves the Basque country and enters another southwestern region called Béarn. While not many people have heard of Béarn, most have heard of Sauce Béarnais, which originates in the region. Made with clarified butter, egg yolks, white wine vinegar, shallots, chervil, peppercorns and tarragon, it’s a classic accompaniment to steak frites.
The wine appellation Béarn is surely one of the more unique AOPs in France, as producers in neighboring yet distant appellations can make wines and label them as Béarn. For instance, Madiran is solely a red appellation, but if a producer wants to make a rosé, he is permitted to release it as Béarn. Or if a producer in Jurançon, which is only for white wines, wants to release a red wine, he may do so with the Béarn appellation. Béarn central, however, is located around the thermal spa town Salies-de-Béarn. Here they make all three colors of wine, most of which are marketed by the Gan cooperative in Jurançon.
One independent producer exists in the region named Pascal Lapeyre, who studied winemaking in Bordeaux and worked at Cheval Blanc in St. Émilion before returning to his parents' domaine. It has not been an easy road for Pascal, working on his own without a network of local producers with whom to share ideas or equipment, or to help collectively publicize the appellation (imagine producing wine in South Dakota, for instance). Pascal makes wine from two different properties, one called Domaine Guilhemas and another called Domaine Lapeyre. In both domaines, he cultivates the red grapes Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Soils around Salies-de-Béarn have a harmonious blend of clay and limestone that helps create red wines that are more flattering and accessible than either Madiran or Irouléguy. Pascal’s white grapes include Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, and Raffiat de Moncade, a light-skinned grape variety that has lower acidity than the Mansengs and gives floral aromas along with crisp pear, melon and apple flavors. Pascal makes what must be the world's only 100% varietal example of Raffiat de Moncade. While the rare grape is sometimes confused with Arrufiac, DNA testing has proven that the grapes are not related.
Tursan
Tursan is not an appellation that many people of heard of, but for those who have eaten at Michel Guerard’s three-star restaurant Les Prés d’Eugénie in Eugénie-les-Bains, their dining experience was actually spent within Tursan. Located mostly in the Landes department, Tursan’s production zone covers some 4,000 hectares, but only about 1,000 are planted with grapes. As parts of the appellation are within the giant pine forests that extend from the Armagnac region to the Atlantic, the soils for the most part are covered with sand and silt, with some of the vineyards spread across the rolling hills also including a bit of limestone. In general, these poor soils tend to give lighter wines that are pleasant to drink young but don’t provide much capacity for aging.
The reds are made with Tannat and the two Cabernets. While red grapes outnumber whites two to one, it is perhaps the whites that display the most originality, mainly because of the Baroque grape. This indigenous grape's name comes from the Occitan word Varoc, a derivative of Vara—a long wooden pole, referring to the grape's long, straight rootstock. The grape is rustic, and resistant to oidium, mildew, and black rot. It reaches decent levels of alcohol (13%) and, while somewhat neutral in flavor, always retains refreshing acidity. Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, and Sauvignon Blanc are also permitted in the appellation’s white wines.
Production is dominated by the cooperative in Geaune, although a few independent producers also release wines. Most notable of these is Michel Guerard himself, who owns the Château de Bachen and hasn't spared much expense in making the wines—Jean-Claude Berrouet of Chateau Pétrus and Denis Dubourdieu of Clos Floridene are both consultants. A red made entirely with Merlot (not allowed in the appellation and therefore an IGP Terroirs Landais) and two whites, one in tank and one in oak barrels, are sold, mostly at the restaurant to accompany Guerard’s three-star cuisine.
Saint Mont
Saint Mont is located just west of Madiran and is dominated by the well-run cooperative Les Producteurs de Plaimont. This region was a VDQS until 2011 when it was granted appellation status and its name changed from Côtes de Saint Mont to Saint Mont.
The large, well-organized and modern co-op has gained enormous international success with the Colombelle brand, a Côtes de Gascogne blend made in a bright, refreshing style whose popularity has spread to most wine-consuming countries of the world. The coop also makes a few more serious white wines made with blends of Arrufiac and Petit Courbu, along with Gros and Petit Manseng. Often aged in oak, they provide enjoyable drinking alongside mussels, paella, or cold chicken salads. The reds include a substantial amount of Tannat, usually blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and a bit of Fer Servadou. Unlike Madiran, the appellation allows Merlot—although this grape is slowly being phased out. The co-op releases a number of different red blends, all of which are highly drinkable and some of which are worth remembering. As is often the case with co-ops, however, the eventual consumer is usually one who is not only less demanding, but also tends to buy with price being an important criteria; at times, this can diminish the potential character that the terroir can express, yielding good rather than profound wines.
Can somebody clarify the quote about Micro-Ox "While the technique is now used all over the world, most Madiran producers no longer use it in their barrels, preferring to inject doses of oxygen into their tanks, thus avoiding the risk of prematurely oxidizing their wines."
how does introducing ox in tank vs the barrel avoid premature oxidation?
Love this article about my favorite region! Looking forward to the other 2 installments - fascinating, and great to see some coverage about a region that deserves more attention.
Very thrilled to have some material about this area of France. Thank you!
Great stuff, thank you Charles.
Terret is the other palindrome grape correct. Amazing article