British Columbia (BC) is a small but rapidly evolving wine region in western Canada. Despite grapes being planted and wine made for decades, the modern industry only really got underway with the signing of NAFTA between Canada and the United States and the subsequent planting of quality vinifera varieties from 1990 onwards.
There are five official wine regions within BC, known as Designated Viticultural Areas (DVAs), with three located close to the maritime influence of the Pacific and two in the very continental climate east of the Coast Mountain Range. It is the interior regions of Okanagan Valley and Similkameen Valley that house nearly 90% of all the Province's vineyard acreage (Okanagan Valley 82%, Similkameen Valley 7%).
The Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys produce the majority of BC's wine. The Okanagan Valley is by far the largest region and contains all of the Province's larger wine producers (who are still small on a world scale). The climate in these interior regions is very unique in the world. Being so far north, a very cool climate would be expected. Instead, the region is one of vast extremes. Temperatures can dip below -20°C (-4°F) in the winter and then hit +40°C (104°F) in the summer. The northerly latitude means long daylight hours and with the cloudless, dry, desert like conditions the grapes soak up long hours of sunlight. The diurnal temperature range on a summers day can be as high as 30°C.
With 82% of production, the Okanagan Valley would benefit from being divided into sub-regions to reflect the varying climate and grape varieties that are successful in the different parts of the valley. The possibility for sub-regions does exist in the legislation and while some areas are working on the criteria, none have yet been created. A simple initial breakdown into South, Central and North Okanagan would be a good start to separate the different styles of wines that are produced but no official sub-regions have yet been created. In spite of no official sub-regions existing, the British Columbia Wine Institute (winebc.org) breaks the Okanagan down into (from south to north) Black Sage/Osoyoos, Golden Mile, Okanagan Falls, Naramata and Kelowna. These unofficial sub-regions were identified based on climatic studies by scientists at the Pacific Agri-food Research Centre (PARC).
The growing climate for the Okanagan and Similkameen is best described as a short, hot growing season. Budbreak often doesn't occur until early May and harvest takes place from mid-September to early November. The region is dry thanks to the moisture stripping Coastal Mountain Range leaving annual precipitation (combined rainfall and snow) levels between 318 mm (12 inches) in Osoyoos on the USA border and 415 mm (16 inches) in Kelowna, 100 km (62 miles) to the north. The vineyards are mostly planted on the low slopes of the, often steep, valley walls.
The dry, scrubby, desert region of the south Okanagan Valley is the northern point of the network of deserts that stretch right through the USA and into Mexico. Weather patterns are similar to those of the Columbia Valley and surrounding regions of Washington State. These very dry conditions make irrigation essential. Pest and disease pressure is low due to the low humidity and organic viticulture is increasingly popular. A series of lakes provides some moderation of the harsh climate, protecting vineyards from spring and fall frosts and extremes of winter cold.
The south Okanagan is home to most of the Province's red grape acreage. Osoyoos, in the far south, has average growing degree days of 1492. Heading north, the Golden Mile area around Oliver has 1484 and at what is considered to be the transition area from south to central Okanagan, Okanagan Falls has 1407 growing degree days. In the Central part of the Okanagan Naramata averages 1319 degree days with the Kelowna area further to the north averaging just 1200 degree days.
Other than temperature differences, the climate throughout the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys is largely the same - dry, sunny and hot in the summer. The most successful varieties follow the patterns of the growing degree days with Syrah, Merlot and the Cabernets in the south, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling in the centre of the valley and aromatic whites, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Pinot Gris in the cooler northern parts. The Similkameen Valley is successful with a wide range of varieties from Riesling and Chardonnay to Gamay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
The most successful varieties, however, are not just linked to latitude. The north-south direction of the Okanagan Valley results in vineyards on both the east and west sides of the valley. The east side is much warmer than the west side of the valley as it receives the hot sun long into the evening. There can be ripening difference of as much as two weeks for the same variety at the same latitude depending on which side of the valley it is planted. The different sides of the valley may be suitable for breaking down into further sub-regions as the region matures.
The coastal regions of Fraser Valley, Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands together account for just 8% of vineyard acreage. Here climates are heavily moderated by the proximity to the ocean and growing degree days are low. Only certain grape varieties in the best sites will ripen to produce quality wine. Rainfall around harvest can be a major risk factor for these small regions. Pinot Noir, in warm years, can produce quality wines on Vancouver Island and Zweigelt can be successful in the Fraser Valley. Only small quantities of wine are produced by a large number of small producers. Most wine is sold directly to the local markets.
The number of wineries has increased rapidly in BC from just 17 in 1990 to in excess of 215 in 2012. Total production (2011 figures) is estimated at approximately 15 million litres (3.96 million gallons, 1.66 million 9 litre cases). This figure is still shy of production levels in 2008, despite the fact that acreage increased from 6,632 in 2006 to the 10,000 acres of 2011. This illustrates the effect that cold winters can have on production. Production in 2008 was over 15 million litres but dropped to 12.9 million (3.4 million gallons) in 2009 and 11.5 million litres (3 million gallons) in 2010 after severe cold temperature damage in the winter of 2008/9 and 2009/10.
Interesting for such a northern climate, just over half (52%) of the grapes are red. The most planted varieties are Merlot (16% of total acreage), Pinot Gris (11%), Pinot Noir (10%), Chardonnay (9%), Cabernet Sauvignon (8%), Gewurztraminer (7%), Syrah (6%), Cabernet Franc (5%), Riesling (4%), Sauvignon Blanc (4%). Being such a small region, the wines are little known outside of Canada. They are typically quite successful in international competitions and regularly take home trophies against much more lauded regions. The best wines tend tom come from Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Bordeaux varietal blends. With over 60 grape varieties planted there are other success stories, albeit on a small scale.
Flavour Characteristics of BC Red Wines
Flavour Characteristics of BC White Wines
The overall small production means that most of the wine produced in BC is sold directly in the Province. Locally grown and produced wine only accounts for a little over 20% of wine sales in BC. Small amounts of wine are shipped to other Canadian Provinces and a very small amount to the United States and internationally. Some of the top producers exporting to the USA are LaStella Winery, Le Vieux Pin, Mission Hill Family Estate and Quails' Gate Winery. Other quality producers who are looking into exporting to the USA include CedarCreek Estate Winery, Joie Farm Winery, Meyer Family Vineyards and Tantalus Vineyards.
With the combination of intense fruit, high natural acidity, high tannin and high alcohol levels, it would make sense if the wines of the Okanagan and Similkameen would have long cellar potential. Although there is only a short history, the quality wines seem to age very well with many of the top red wines still looking and tasting relatively youthful even at a decade of age. The red wines are typically better with 3-5 years of age as the, often high, tannins start to soften. Bordeaux varieties, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Chardonnay have all shown a great ability to age.
The standards for BC wine production are set out in the Wines of Marked Quality Regulation. The regulation covers what is and isn’t allowed in winemaking and labeling of BC wines including grape varieties, vintages and the use of the Designated Viticultural Areas (DVAs). The BC Wine Authority (BCWA) is the body that oversees the standards set out in the Regulation. The BCWA brings all BC wineries under a single set of regulations and creates a single body charged with enforcing those regulations. All wineries have to register and meet a core set of standards regarding winemaking and labeling. There is a mandatory level of ‘Wines of Marked Quality’ for all wineries.
A further “Appellation of Origin” system for BC is known as BC Vintners Quality Alliance (BC VQA). BC VQA is designed to guarantee authenticity of origin and stipulate minimum quality standards for Canadian wines and is also regulated by the BCWA. Participation in the BC VQA program, however, is voluntary and not all producers choose to be part of the system. Another key group is the BC Wine Institute (BCWI). The BCWI is a voluntary trade association with member fees based on wine sales. The BCWI members produce 95% of the Province's wine.
Rhys is a wine educator, consultant, judge and freelance writer through his company Wine Plus+. In 2010 Rhys became Canada’s youngest Master of Wine (MW). In 2008 Rhys was named as one of the “Top 40 Foodies Under 40” in Western Canada by Western Living magazine. He writes for a number of publications, judges internationally and is increasingly becoming recognised as one of Canada’s leading experts in the wine business. His career plan is to wait for Robert Parker to retire so he can finally claim back his initials RP for wine reviews.
Really well written Rhys. Thanks