Italy Part IV: Southern Italy

Southern Italy is more agrarian and less industrialized than the northern portion of the country, and it has been slower to develop infrastructure. Farther from the rest of Europe—geographically as well as culturally—it is also more isolated by mountains and seas. Although it is home to large cities, such as Naples and Palermo, and popular tourist destinations, such as the Amalfi Coast, the south has more poverty than, and over double the unemployment rate of, the rest of Italy. Some of its regions are not widely known outside the country, except perhaps to descendants of Italian immigrants who left those regions seeking opportunity.

During the unification of Italy in the 19^th century, the Risorgimento government was largely composed of northerners. The south was hurt by heavy taxation, high protective tariffs on northern industrial goods, and a mandatory seven years of military service, which had a particularly significant impact on the farm labor force in rural areas. As late as 1900, the illiteracy rate in southern Italy was 70%, 10 times higher than that of England, France, or Germany. More than four million Italians—over 10% of the national population—immigrated to the United States between 1880 and 1924, most of them from the rural south and the island of Sicily.

Yet despite its hardships, southern Italy has a long and rich history with viticulture and was likely one of the world’s earliest centers of vine domestication, after the Caucuses, Levant, and eastern Mediterranean. A 2017 archeological discovery of wine residue in terra-cotta jars inside a cave at Monte Kronio, in southwestern Sicily, suggests that winemaking in this area goes back 6,000 years.

The arrival of the Phoenicians and then the Greeks led to the expansion of vine cultivation. The Greeks reached southern Italy in the eighth century BCE and called this part of the peninsula Oenotria—“the land of trained vines.” They brought viticultural knowledge with them and enhanced the local wine-drinking culture, introducing both the alberello (bush vine) training method and the Greek symposium. The region along the coasts of southern Italy and its islands became known by the Romans as Magna Graecia, meaning “great Greece,” for its Greek settlers.

There are also Spanish and Arabic influences throughout southern Italy. The south can be a paradox: a melting pot of cultures resulting from centuries of rule by outsiders alongside fiercely independent regions with local identities, dialects, and customs.

Southern Italy is colloquially referred to as Mezzogiorno, Italian for “noon,” referring to the intensity of sunshine there at midday. Like the rest of Italy, the south has diverse climates and topography, from the colder, mountainous terrain high in the Apennines to gentler coasts and flatter plains. The two largest islands in the Mediterranean Sea (Sicily and Sardinia) are also part of the south. Many of southern Italy’s wines and grape varieties are found only in their local areas, providing an exciting opportunity for exploration.

The Grapes and Grape Families of Southern Italy

Several key grape varieties of southern Italy—including Aglianico, Montepulciano, Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria), and Cannonau (Grenache)—are covered in the Introduction to Italy Expert Guide. Below are additional grapes and families that are important to southern Italy, while others are discussed in the regional sections that follow.

White Grapes

Greco: The Greco group, like the Malvasia varieties, is one of the most confusing sets of grapes in Italy. Many unrelated grape varieties in Italy were given Greek-sounding names—Greco, Grecanico, Grechetto—either because they were thought to be of Greek origin, or because they were used for wines made in the “Greek style” of air-drying grapes, concentrating musts by cooking, and adding resin or other flavorings.

The most important Greco grape of southern Italy, known simply as Greco, is found mainly in Campania and the volcanic soils of Greco di Tufo DOCG. It is late ripening and susceptible to vineyard diseases, with low vigor and productivity, and it is prone to oxidation and volatile acidity in the cellar. Its wines are ageworthy and complex, with full body, an oily texture, high acidity, and flavors of peach, pear, tropical fruit, and honey. It is not widely grown outside Campania and pockets in neighboring regions, such as Lazio and Puglia, but it is both heat and drought resistant and may be successful in warmer and water-challenged environments in the future.

The unrelated Greco Bianco, also called Greco di Gerace, is found mainly in Calabria and is genetically identical to Malvasia di Lipari and Malvasia di Sardegna. It is used for both dry wines and sweet passito wines. Greco Moro and Greco Giallo are white grapes grown mainly in Lazio, and Greco Nero is a red grape used in Calabrian blends.

Catarratto: Although grown almost exclusively in Sicily, Catarratto is one of Italy’s most planted white grape varieties. Named for the cataracts, or waterfalls, of wine it produces, Catarratto is a highly productive grape and has long been a dependable variety for making simple, quaffable Sicilian white wines and inexpensive, fortified Marsala.

Two main biotypes are often interplanted and are genetically identical but have separate entries in the Italian national registry: Catarratto Bianco Comune has higher sugar and lower acidity, and Catarratto Bianco Lucido has more-compact bunches and can be more refined. Producers often distinguish the latter by simply calling it Lucido. Both grapes are offspring of Garganega. Plantings have been in steady decline, but Catarratto still represents nearly one-third of the Sicilian vine area. Grown almost everywhere in the western and central parts of Sicily, Catarratto also plays a supporting role in Etna Bianco, adding fruitiness to Carricante’s minerality.

Carricante: Another variety named for its high production, Carricante derives its name from caricare, “to load”—as in loading up a cart or donkey with a large volume of grapes. Despite this reference to quantity, Carricante is considered one of the highest-quality, most ageworthy, and most complex Italian white grapes. It has low alcohol, high acidity, a lemon flavor, and pronounced minerality, with TDN-based flavors of petrol and kerosene, like those of some dry Rieslings.

Some producers harvest Carricante as late as possible to curb its high acidity, and malolactic fermentation is commonly used as a softening method. Carricante tolerates climatic extremes, such as rain and humidity, and thrives at the higher elevations of Mount Etna, especially on the eastern slope, which is the coolest and rainiest side of the volcano.

Falanghina: One of the oldest varieties of Campania, Falanghina, along with Aglianico, is thought to be among the grapes used in the revered Falernian (Falernum in Latin) wines in ancient Rome.

There are at least two distinct Falanghina varieties: Falanghina Beneventana, which has more structure, alcohol, and floral character; and Falanghina Flegrea, which has fruitier flavors of peach, yellow apple, cherry pit, and apricot. These grapes have naturally high acidity and are generally co-planted in vineyards, and the resulting wines reflect characteristics of both. In addition to its primary home of Campania, Falanghina can also be found in Lazio and Puglia.

Fiano: One of Italy’s oldest and most ageworthy white grapes, Fiano was nearly extinct in the 1940s when it was revived by the work of the Mastroberardino estate. Fiano is late ripening and low yielding, and its thick skins can withstand rot and moisture in the cooler and rainier parts of Campania. It is versatile and site specific, yielding steely, smoky, ageworthy wines from volcanic soils, and lighter, fruitier wines for early consumption from sandier soils.

The typical Fiano has flavors of hazelnut, green apple, and pear, developing notes of beeswax and acacia honey with age, and tasters often identify a smoky, flinty character. Some producers use skin maceration to increase the aromatics, weight, and richness of the wine. Fiano is found in Campania, Sicily, Puglia, Molise, and Basilicata. The aromatic Puglian variety called Fiano Minutolo, or Fiano Aromatico, is unrelated.

Grillo: A natural crossing of Catarratto Bianco Lucido and Zibibbo, Grillo first appeared relatively recently in western Sicily, in the late 19^th century. It is resistant to heat and drought but sensitive to sunburn, and it oxidizes easily. With high acidity and full body, Grillo is known for higher-quality Marsala production as well as crisp, herbal, dry white wines.

Winemakers generally favor reductive winemaking for Grillo and are careful to preserve the variety’s thiols and the resulting flavors of cassis, grapefruit, and passion fruit, which sometimes evoke comparisons to Sauvignon Blanc. There are two biotypes, Grillo Vecchio and Grillo Nuovo, the latter of which is more commonly planted, as it is less susceptible to millerandage. In addition to its presence in Sicily, Grillo can be found in Puglia, and some Rossese Bianco vines planted in Liguria have been shown to be genetically identical to Grillo.

Red Grapes

Frappato: An offspring of Sangiovese and half-sibling of Nerello Mascalese and Gaglioppo, Frappato is found primarily in southeastern Sicily, in the areas surrounding Vittoria, Ragusa, and Siracusa. It is very late ripening, withstands hot and dry conditions, and performs best in red, sandy calcareous soils, resulting in more fragrant wines. Frappato is less vigorous than other Sicilian varieties and is often pruned with the Guyot system to increase production.

Because Frappato is a reductive variety, winemakers generally use frequent pumpovers or rack-and-return to increase oxygen flow and avoid off-flavors. As a varietal wine, Frappato is pale colored, light bodied, and low in tannin, with flavors of strawberry, violets, and dried herbs. Refreshing and juicy, it can be served chilled. Frappato is a common blending partner with Nero d’Avola. In Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, for example, it performs a softening role. Frappato is also grown in Puglia.

Nerello Mascalese: A natural crossing of Sangiovese and Mantonico Bianco, Nerello Mascalese is often compared to Sangiovese and Nebbiolo as one of Italy’s best and most refined red grapes. It is named for the Mascali plain, in northeastern Sicily, and it is the signature grape of Mount Etna, Faro, and other areas in northeastern Sicily. Thin skinned and large berried, Nerello Mascalese is late ripening and very vigorous; old, pre-phylloxera vines, which are prevalent in the area and produce less fruit, and the use of alberello training help limit yields.

Nerello Mascalese is light colored and high in tannin, with flavors of sour cherry, tobacco, aromatic herbs, and minerals. The higher altitudes of Mount Etna are key to its full phenolic ripening and development of floral finesse. At lower elevations where it is harvested earlier, the variety makes wines can show riper fruit but more vegetal and bitter astringency. Nerello Mascalese is also grown in western Sicily at much higher yields and authorized for Marsala production, and it can be found across the Strait of Messina in Calabria.

Nero d’Avola: Officially listed as Calabrese in the national registry, this red grape is more commonly called Nero d’Avola, named for the town of Avola, on the coast of southeastern Sicily. It buds early and ripens late (although two weeks earlier than Frappato), and it is planted primarily in warm, dry areas, including most of Sicily. Nero d’Avola tolerates heat and highly saline soils and retains acidity even in warm temperatures. It is often trained low to the ground to absorb heat.

Rich in anthocyanins, Nero d’Avola has the deepest color of the main Sicilian red varieties. There are many clones and biotypes that have adapted over the centuries to Sicily’s terroirs. Nero d’Avola wines generally have rich texture, ripe fruit, and salinity, with flavors of dark cherries and spicy and aromatic herbs. A range of varietal wines are produced, including some with new oak and sweet passito versions. In Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, Nero d’Avola is blended with Frappato, elevating the blend’s richness, structure, and color.

Primitivo: One of the top five most planted red grapes of Italy, Primitivo is found primarily in Puglia, with some plantings in Campania. It is genetically the same as Zinfandel in California and Crljenak Kaštelanski, or Tribidrag, in Croatia, where it originated. Primitivo ripens unevenly within individual bunches, and it is one of the first grapes to be harvested in Italy (its Italian name refers to its early maturation).

Primitivo accumulates sugar easily and results in high-alcohol wines. Historically, the grape was used as vino da taglio, the “cutting wine” included in blends to boost body and alcohol in poorer vintages or lighter wines from the north. It suffered because of the European Union’s vine pull incentives in the late 20^th century, when many of Puglia’s centenary Primitivo vines were removed. New plantings have been rebounding, however, based on the commercial success of Primitivo and Zinfandel, with an increase of nearly 40% in the first decade of the 21^st century. Red and rosato wines are made, as are sweet passito and fortified wines.

Abruzzo

Located about halfway down the eastern side of the Italian peninsula, between the Apennines and the Adriatic Sea, Abruzzo—like its northern neighbor Marche—is a transitional region from north-central to southern Italy. The climate becomes more Mediterranean, Sangiovese gives way to Montepulciano, and the territory of the Etruscans and Papal States transitions into Magna Graecia. The ancient Greeks went as far north on the Adriatic coast as the city of Ancona, in the Marche.

Abruzzo was originally called Aprutium, named after the Praetutii, an Italic tribe that lived in the early city of Interamnia (modern-day Teramo). The wines of Abruzzo were well known during the Roman era. During the Middle Ages, the Medici bankers of Florence ruled over parts of Abruzzo. Some suggest these close ties were a reason for Sangiovese’s migration from the south to Tuscany, and for the connection between Abruzzo’s Montepulciano grape and the Tuscan town and Sangiovese-based wine region of the same name.

Abruzzo is mostly mountainous and hilly. It is one of the greenest parts of Europe, with much of the region forested and conserved as national parkland. The snowcapped mountains of the Gran Sasso d’Italia massif include the highest peak of the Apennines, Corno Grande, at over 2,900 meters (9,500 feet) above sea level, the highest point in Italy outside the Alps and Mount Etna.

The mezzadria system, in which sharecropper tenants farmed the land and split the profits with landlords, was common here until it was dissolved in the mid-20^th century, and many farmers grew wheat, olives, cereals, and other crops in addition to wine grapes. Phylloxera significantly reduced vineyard land, and many people left rural areas to escape poverty and seek employment in new industries. Today, Abruzzo is a major contributor to Italy’s bulk wine production, and its wine industry is dominated by co-ops. Most of the region’s production is table wine, and less than one-third is at the DOP level.

Abruzzo has two DOCGs, seven DOCs (four of which cover nearly the entire region), and nine IGPs (with one that covers the entire region). Production has been increasing in recent years, with more than 3.1 million hectoliters (34.8 million cases) of wine made from 32,650 hectares (80,700 acres) of vineyards in 2022. The most planted grapes are Montepulciano (57%) and the Trebbiano varieties (29%), including both the common Trebbiano Toscano and the higher-quality Trebbiano Abruzzese.

Montepulciano

Montepulciano, Italy’s second most planted red grape, considered a workhorse variety, most likely originated in the mountainous Peligna valley of Abruzzo and plays a starring role in most of the region’s DOC/Gs. Because it accumulates sugar easily but its pip tannins ripen very slowly, colder, mountainous terroirs are preferred for achieving slow, even ripening and for avoiding unripe flavors. Montepulciano is planted nearly everywhere, however, including areas that are much warmer, and the wines range from simple and cheerful to concentrated and ageworthy.

The region-wide Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC requires a minimum of 85% Montepulciano, with some subzones requiring higher percentages or monovarietal wines. Two well-regarded subzones, Terre dei Vestini and Terre di Casauria, both in the province of Pescara, require at least 90% and 100% Montepulciano, respectively, along with higher minimum alcohol, lower maximum yields, and longer aging. Within Vestini is the important wine district Loreto Aprutino, home to one of Abruzzo’s iconic producers, Valentini.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo has a maximum elevation of 600 meters (1,970 feet) generally, or up to 700 meters (2,300 feet) for vineyards with direct southern exposure. Riserva wines require a minimum aging of two years, with at least nine months in barrel, while some subzones have stricter aging requirements.

The Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane subzone was elevated to its own separate DOCG in 2003 and was recently renamed Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG to emphasize the place rather than the grape variety. It covers a large area with clay-based soils in the northern province of Teramo. Wines must be made from a minimum of 90% Montepulciano, with the remainder exclusively from Sangiovese; in the broader DOC, several red grapes are allowed.

Colline Teramane requires lower maximum yields and higher minimum alcohol than the general DOC. The DOCG requires a minimum aging of one year, with at least two months in bottle; the Riserva level requires at least three years of aging, with one year in barrel and two months in bottle. Abruzzo’s most famous producers, Valentini and Emidio Pepe, eschew the DOCG and bottle their reds under Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC instead.

Montepulciano is high in anthocyanins, resulting not only in deeply colored red wines but also in a dark style of rosato that is more pale red than pink, obtaining its color with little or no maceration time on the skins. Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC, named for this cherry color, is for rosato wines based on a minimum of 85% Montepulciano. A Superiore version requires at least 90% Montepulciano, with slightly higher minimum alcohol and aging.

Trebbiano

While Italy’s widely planted Trebbiano Toscano can be high yielding and indistinctive, lending itself to wines and products of process, such as vin santo, balsamic vinegar, and brandy, the unrelated Trebbiano Abruzzese is one of Italy’s highest-quality white grape varieties. The name of the grape, however, is not equivalent to the wine made in the region-wide appellation Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC, which can come from a minimum of 85% combined Trebbiano Toscano, Trebbiano Abruzzese, and/or Bombino Bianco, with up to 15% other authorized grapes.

Trebbiano Abruzzese has been mistakenly identified as Bombino Bianco, Passerina, and other varieties. Some producers estimate that only 20% of the so-called Trebbiano grapes grown in Abruzzo are truly Trebbiano Abruzzese, which is typically co-planted and blended with Trebbiano Toscano and Bombino Bianco. The variety has high acidity, but the acidity drops if the grapes are overripe. Pick timing is crucial and has been misjudged in the past when Trebbiano Abruzzese was mistaken for other white grapes or simply harvested along with them.

While Montepulciano performs best in cooler, mountainous terroirs, where longer hanging times can be achieved, Trebbiano Abruzzese is better suited to the gently rolling hills closer to the coast, where there is more sunlight and less humidity. Although the DOC does not require it, some producers and iconic bottlings, such as Valentini’s Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and Tiberio’s Fonte Canale, focus exclusively on Trebbiano Abruzzese. When made well, it has delicate aromas of orchard fruits and white flowers, a creamy texture, and a mineral edge.

Other Regions of Abruzzo

Abruzzo DOC, which has the same boundaries as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, is an overarching DOC for a wide range of dry, sparkling, and sweet passito wines. Varietal wines from grapes such as Passerina, Pecorino, Cococciola, Malvasia, and Montonico are permitted to be labeled with the name of the grape variety before the DOC name (for example, Passerina d’Abruzzo DOC), giving the misleading impression that they have their own denominations. Sparkling wines made from native grape varieties using the tank method can be labeled Trabocco, an unofficial term trademarked by the consorzio and named for trabocchi, the fishing platforms at the end of piers that are common on the Adriatic coast.

In 2023, four DOCs—Abruzzo, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo—simultaneously launched new subzones, largely based on Abruzzo’s four provinces. They are Colline Pescaresi (Pescara province), Colline Teramane (Teramo province), Terre di Chieti (Chieti province), and Terre Aquilane or Terre de L’Aquila (L’Aquila province). There is an exception for Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, because the name Colline Teramane is already used for a separate DOCG there. In Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, the Colline Teramane subzone is instead called San Martino sulla Marrucina, named for the commune of the same name. Other changes were also introduced, including adding Superiore and Riserva levels where they did not already exist, and making those levels exclusive to, and required for, the subzones. Abruzzo DOC also introduced a new rosato category, based on a minimum of 85% Montepulciano, making it a parallel to Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo.

Abruzzo received its second DOCG in 2019 when Tullum DOCG, also called Terre Tollesi DOCG, was elevated from a DOC. Tullum DOCG is near the coast of the southern Chieti province and focuses on varietal white wines made of Pecorino or Passerina, reds made of a minimum of 95% Montepulciano, and sparkling wines made of a minimum of 60% Chardonnay. A Riserva level for reds requires at least two years of aging, including six months in barrel. The DOCG has only 19 planted hectares. Two small DOCs also in the Chieti province, Ortona DOC and Villamagna DOC, require a minimum of 95% Montepulciano for their red wines, with Ortona also allowing whites based on the Trebbiano varieties.

Molise

The region of Molise is the second smallest in Italy (after Valle d’Aosta) in both population and land area. It was administratively part of the Abruzzo region until the 1960s and has much in common culturally, historically, and geographically with its northern neighbor. Like Abruzzo, it is very mountainous, and, although it has a coastline, the heights rise swiftly inland. Molise’s most planted grape varieties, like Abruzzo’s, are Montepulciano (51%) and Trebbiano (12%).

Molise makes a significant amount of wine considering its small size, producing 513,000 hectoliters (5.7 million cases) of wine from 5,450 hectares (13,400 acres) of vineyards in 2022. An overwhelming majority is table wine, and Molise is tied with its southern neighbor Puglia for the lowest percentage of wine at the DOC/G level (7%). Co-op and bulk production are common. Molise has no DOCGs, four noncontiguous DOCs, and two IGPs.

While Molise is not widely known in the wine world, even within Italy, it is the home of the important local Tintilia grape. This red grape, named after the Italian word tinto (dyed) for its deep color, appears to be genetically related to grape varieties in Spain and Sardinia, and some believe it originally came from the Iberian Peninsula. It is very low yielding and was nearly abandoned in Molise in favor of more productive varieties, but several old vines survived. Tintilia has been propagated by dedicated producers who see its quality potential as a signature grape of Molise, and more than 100 hectares (250 acres) are planted.

Tintilia wines are typically high in acidity, full bodied, deeply colored, and lightly aromatic, with spicy, floral, and herbal flavors. The grape performs best above 400 meters (1,300 feet) in elevation. Tintilia del Molise DOC, established in 2011, allows red and rosato wines based on a minimum of 95% Tintilia and mandates a minimum elevation of 200 meters (650 feet). A Riserva version for reds requires a higher ABV, at 13%, and a minimum aging of two years.

Molise’s other denominations include Biferno DOC, in the eastern province of Campobasso, toward the Adriatic coast; Pentro di Isernia DOC, in the western Isernia province, farther inland; and the overarching Molise DOC. More than 70% of Molise’s production is red wine, and the DOCs authorize a wide range of wine styles and both varietal wines and blends from international and native grapes, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Aglianico, Montepulciano, Chardonnay, Fiano, and Falanghina.

Puglia

Puglia (or Apulia) forms the southeastern spur and heel of Italy’s boot, with a long stretch of coastline along the Adriatic and Ionian Seas. It is less mountainous than most of Italy and, like the northern Po River valley, is one of the only areas of the country with flat and fertile plains. It has long been an agricultural region, focused on exports of olives, wheat, barley, oats, table grapes, almonds, figs, and cash crops. Puglia produces nearly half of Italy’s olive oil. Wine has historically been defined by co-op production of bulk wine, high volume, and vino da taglio.

While largely warm, flat, and fertile, Puglia has some cooler, higher-elevation areas, such as the Daunian mountains in the north. Valleys are formed by rivers that rise in the Apennines and empty into the Adriatic Sea. The Fortore River forms the border between Molise and Puglia in the north, and the Ofanto River borders the Murge plateau in central Puglia.

The ancient Apulian tribes most likely arrived from Illyria across the Adriatic Sea at the end of the Bronze Age and beginning of the Iron Age, around the first millennium BCE. When the Greeks arrived on the Salento peninsula, they established city-states that became some of the most important wealth centers and military ports of Magna Graecia. The Romans had strongholds and built roads, such as the ancient Appian Way, stretching from Rome to Brindisi, Puglia.

After the fall of Rome, Puglia was an area of dispute and conquest by the Normans, Lombards, Aragonese, Ottomans, Saracens from North Africa, and others. It was ruled by the Byzantine Empire in the Middle Ages, and, during this period, its monks were responsible for sustaining viticulture. Puglia’s famous trulli, cone-shaped dwellings made of limestone, were present by the 14^th or 15^th century CE. It is believed that residents would quickly dismantle these structures when representatives from the Kingdom of Naples came to collect taxes.

Today, Puglia has the third-largest area under vine of any Italian region, with 94,250 hectares (232,800 acres) of planted vineyards. Many growers took advantage of EU financial subsidies to pull up vineyards, and many old bush vines were lost in the process, in favor of high-yielding varieties. With these higher yields, the region is second only to Veneto in wine production, making more than 10.8 million hectoliters (120 million cases), much of it basic table wine. Like Molise, only 7% of Puglia’s production is at the DOC/G level. The region has 4 DOCGs, 28 DOCs, and 6 IGPs, and Puglia produces a higher volume of IGP wine and vino da tavola than any other region.

Castel del Monte

Puglia was particularly prosperous under the rule of the13^th-century Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, who built the octagon-shaped Castel del Monte, a mystical-looking fortress that is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. The castle sits on a hill of the Alta Murgia, the highest part of the Murge plateau, in north-central Puglia, south of the Ofanto River. The surrounding area has higher elevations, a rugged landscape, and calcareous limestone rock formations. Castel del Monte lends its name to three of Puglia’s DOCGs and one overarching DOC.

The most important grape of the Castel del Monte area is Uva di Troia, also called Nero di Troia. Plantings have increased in the 21^st century, both for monovarietal wines and for adding freshness and finesse to Puglian blends. Uva di Troia yields wines that are medium bodied and well structured, with flavors of red cherries, red currants, orange blossom, black pepper, tobacco, and underbrush.

Castel del Monte Rosso Riserva DOCG requires a minimum of 65% Uva di Troia, while Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserva DOCG is for varietal wines with at least 90% of the grape variety. Both DOCGs require a minimum aging of two years, including at least one year in wood, and a minimum 13% ABV.

Castel del Monte is also home to a unique rosato-only DOCG based on the red grape Bombino Nero, which is required at a minimum of 90% in Castel del Monte Bombino Nero DOCG. The fragrant Bombino Nero has thin skins and a crisp and racy acidity, making it more suitable for rosato than many of Puglia’s bolder red grapes. The rosato wines are fresh, fruity, and floral, with flavors of red berries and citrus, and the DOCG sets a maximum of 10 grams of residual sugar per liter.

The overarching Castel del Monte DOC is for white, rosato, red, and sparkling wines made from a wide range of international and native grape varieties, including Aglianico, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and the white Bombino Bianco (unrelated to Bombino Nero).

Tavoliere DOC, or Tavoliere delle Puglie DOC, is to the north of Castel del Monte and also focuses on Uva di Troia. Its red and rosato wines require a minimum of 65% of the grape, and, if labeled Nero di Troia, they must have a minimum of 90%. Red wines at the Riserva level require a minimum aging of two years, including at least eight months in wood.

Gioia del Colle and Manduria

Moving south from Castel del Monte, past the capital city of Bari and toward central Puglia, Primitivo gains prominence. While the grape previously existed here under different names, it was named Primitivo by Don Francesco Filippo Indellicati, a priest and amateur botanist, who encouraged its planting in the Gioia del Colle area in the late 18^th century. From there, it spread farther south to the area around the town of Manduria, in the Taranto province, the other main region known for Primitivo today.

The Gioia del Colle area, just south of Bari, sits on the Murge plateau, and vineyards are planted on hillsides at elevations between 250 and 500 meters (820 and 1,640 feet) above sea level. There is a wide diurnal temperature range, and the soils are calcareous limestone with some red clay. The wines can be lighter and more graceful, with higher acidity, than those coming from the flatter, warmer lands around Manduria, which are weightier and rounder, with more ripeness and higher alcohol.

Primitivo di Manduria DOC is for red wines with a minimum of 85% Primitivo. The Riserva level requires a minimum aging of two years, with at least nine months in barrel, along with a minimum 14% ABV, up from 13.5% ABV for Normale. The separate Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale DOCG, elevated in 2011, is for sweet passito wines based on 100% Primitivo. The grapes must be air-dried to achieve a minimum potential alcohol of 16%, and the final wines require a minimum 13% ABV and at least 50 grams of residual sugar per liter.

Gioia del Colle DOC allows varietal wines made of 100% Primitivo, as well as red and rosato blends based on 50%–60% Primitivo, along with Malvasia Nera, Montepulciano, Negroamaro, and/or Sangiovese. Primitivo Riserva requires a minimum aging of two years and a minimum 14% ABV, up from 13% ABV for varietal Primitivo. White blends in the DOC are based on Trebbiano Toscano, and sweet dessert wines here are based on Aleatico rather than Primitivo. These wines may be passito or fortified (in a style similar to the region-wide Aleatico di Puglia DOC).

Salento Peninsula

In the southern third of Puglia on the Salento peninsula, the most important grape variety is Negroamaro. It is named for the dark color of its berries and was originally thought to be a Greek import, although there is little evidence that it is related to any Greek varieties. Negroamaro is an abundant and dependable grape that withstands heat extremely well and doesn’t lose acidity in warmer temperatures, making it suitable for this southern climate.

There are several different Negroamaro clones that yield many different styles of wine, from structured and full-bodied reds intended for longer aging, to finer and less structured styles ideal for rosato production. The red wines are typically full bodied and high in tannin, with flavors of black fruit, tobacco, and black licorice. The rosato wines can be as deeply colored as a pale red, and flavorful, sometimes with residual sugar.

The most well-known denomination for Negroamaro is Salice Salentino DOC, which for red and rosato wines requires a minimum of 75% of the grape variety, or a minimum of 90% if varietally labeled. It also allows varietal and sparkling wines based on Chardonnay, Fiano, and Pinot Bianco, and sweet passito and fortified wines based on Aleatico. The red Riserva wines based on Negroamaro require a minimum aging of two years, including at least six months in wood.

A number of other DOCs in the area feature Negroamaro, such as Brindisi DOC, which requires a minimum of 70% Negroamaro for red and rosato wines, or a minimum of 85% if varietally labeled. The DOC also allows white and sparkling wines made of Chardonnay, Malvasia Bianca, Fiano, Sauvignon Blanc, and other grapes.

White Grapes in Puglia

While Puglia is mostly known for red and rosato wines, it does have white grapes of distinction. Verdeca was historically known as a base wine for vermouth production but is increasingly used for standout monovarietal wines and white blends. Named for the green color of its berries, it is genetically identical to the Greek variety Lagorthi. Verdeca is also a parent, along with Zinfandel, of the Croatian red grape Plavina. Verdeca white wines are fresh and crisp, with delicate herbal and green apple flavors.

Bombino Bianco is unrelated to Bombino Nero, but both are so named because they have clusters that resemble the shape of a cuddling infant (bambino in Italian). Bombino Bianco has long been confused with other Italian white grape varieties, such as Trebbiano Abruzzese, but has potential for high-quality wines that are creamy and fresh, with high acidity and flavors of peach, almonds, and anise. Pampanuto is a lower-acid white variety found in northern and central Puglia. It is usually blended with higher-acid grapes such as Bombino Bianco in DOC and IGT wines. Other white grapes gaining attention in central Puglia include the aromatic Minutolo, also known as Fiano Minutolo or Fiano Aromatico, and Bianco d’Alessano, which is often blended with Verdeca. Much of the Trebbiano Toscano in Puglia is used for vermouth production.

Campania

Home to Naples, Italy’s third-largest city, Campania is the most populous and industrialized region of the south. It is known for the ancient ruins of Pompeii, in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius, and the tourist resorts along the striking cliffs of the Amalfi Coast and on the island of Capri, in the Tyrrhenian Sea. This was the first part of Magna Graecia on the mainland settled by the ancient Greeks, who founded the city of Neopolis, today’s Naples. Two of the last remaining active volcanoes on Italy’s mainland—Vesuvius and Campi Flegrei—are on the Gulf of Naples.

The Romans referred to the area south of Rome as Campania Felix (“blessed country”) for its fertile soils and abundant agriculture. The legendary Falernian wine came from here, and distinctions were made between wines grown in vineyard sites of different quality levels, elevations, and classifications. Pompeii was an important wine production center and wine market outside Rome. Excavated artifacts of the city preserved under volcanic ash by the eruption of 79 CE indicate the vibrant wine culture that existed: thermopolia, taverns that served wine and hot food; dolia, large terra-cotta jars for fermentation; and frescoes depicting Bacchus, grapes, vineyards, and wine consumption.

Campania is still a major wine producer, with an output of 1.5 million hectoliters (16.4 million cases) of wine from its 25,600 hectares (63,250 acres) of planted vineyards. The wines of Campania are almost evenly split between red and white, and the region’s top grape variety is Aglianico, with 34% of all plantings. More than four-fifths of Campania’s production is IGP and table wine, with only 19% at the DOC/G level. The region has 4 DOCGs, 15 DOCs, and 10 IGPs.

Aglianico-Based Denominations

While Campania is known for its Mediterranean coastline, the inland provinces of Avellino and Benevento are cooler and more mountainous. Although its name likely derives from the Spanish llano (plain), Aglianico is generally grown on hillsides and steep mountainous slopes, near volcanoes and ski resorts that receive significant snowfall in the winter. Far from the image of the warm coast, this pre-alpine area has a continental climate, with risks of spring frost and fall rains.

The highly structured and ageworthy Aglianico is the focus of two of the region’s DOCGs, earning it the nickname Barolo of the South. Aglianico is an ancient grape variety that has adapted to its terroirs over time. There are three main biotypes associated with its three main growing areas in Campania and Basilicata. The most famous of these, Taurasi DOCG, covers 17 communes in the Avellino province, an area known as Irpinia. It became southern Italy’s first DOCG in 1993 and remained the only one for a decade.

The volcanic soils of the Taurasi area resisted phylloxera until the 1930s. Phylloxera was followed by World War II and major earthquakes that compounded its devastation in the area. Producers were encouraged to replant with more prolific grape varieties, such as Trebbiano, Sangiovese, Montepulciano, and Barbera. Largely because of the efforts of Mastroberardino, Aglianico remained a focus of the Irpinia region. There are still ungrafted Aglianico vines in the area, including some that are 200 years old—perhaps the oldest vines in Italy. Cordon spur and Guyot training are common, although the old methods, such as alberata training of vines to live trees, are still used as well.

The Taurasi biotype is the most floral of the Aglianicos and, with an aroma of red rose, is the most frequently compared to Nebbiolo. Taurasi’s hilly terrain, also inviting comparisons to Piedmont, is bisected by the Calore River, with wide diurnal temperature variations, warm summers, and cold winters with heavy snowfall. Most vines are planted between 300 and 600 meters (980 and 1,970 feet) above sea level, although some are at nearly 800 meters (2,620 feet) in elevation. While there are no official subzones, the DOCG covers a large area, and the differences in elevation, soil type, and climate result in diverse styles of wine, giving producers options for showcasing the character of a particular commune or blending wines from various sites across the denomination.

The northwestern communes of Venticano, Pietradefusi, and Torre Le Nocelle are at the lowest elevation, on calcareous marl soils, and their temperatures are warmer. Grapes are generally harvested the earliest here, and the wines are rounder and fleshier. The western area, around the communes of Lapio, San Mango sul Calore, Montemiletto, and Montefalcione (overlapping with Fiano di Avellino DOCG), has steep slopes and clay and volcanic soils, with wines that are refined and flinty. The northernmost area, around the communes of Bonito, Fontanarosa, Luogosano, Mirabella Eclano, and Santangelo all’Esca, has more gravel mixed with clay and volcanic ash. The greatest concentration of volcanic material is around the hamlet of Taurasi, an area that is less rugged and has excellent drainage. It is about 350 to 400 meters (1,150 to 1,300 feet) above sea level, and the wines produced here have great depth and balance.

The southernmost area, around the communes of Castelvetere sul Calore, Paternopoli, Castelfranci, and Montemarano, has the highest elevation and coolest climate and is the last to harvest. The soils have more loam and clay, and the wines are among the most powerful and ageworthy produced in the region.

Taurasi DOCG is for red wines only, requiring a minimum of 85% Aglianico, although monovarietal bottlings are common. The Normale wines require a minimum aging of three years, with at least one year in wood, while the Riserva level requires four years of aging, with 18 months in wood.

To the northwest of Taurasi in the Benevento province is Aglianico del Taburno DOCG, elevated to DOCG status in 2011 and covering 13 communes, mainly on the eastern side of Mount Taburno. This limestone massif has calcareous clay soils, and, compared with Taurasi, the area is generally cooler, with considerably more rainfall (up to 1,600 millimeters, or 63 inches, annually) and even wider diurnal variations. Taburno is less famous than its neighbor and has historically been dominated by co-op production.

The Aglianico wines from Taburno typically have high acidity, with great freshness and notes of tobacco and herbs. The Aglianico biotype associated with this area is often called Aglianico Amaro, referring not to bitterness but to its particularly high acidity levels.

Aglianico del Taburno DOCG allows both red and rosato wines, made of a minimum of 85% Aglianico. The Normale reds must be aged for a minimum of two years, while Riserva versions require three years of aging, with at least one year in barrel and six months in bottle.

Other Wines of Irpinia and Sannio

The Avellino province roughly corresponds to an area known culturally and geographically as Irpinia, named for the ancient Hirpini tribe, and the Benevento province corresponds to an area called Sannio, named for the ancient Samnites. In these cool, inland, mountainous areas, in addition to Aglianico, there are several important white grape varieties and denominations, including Campania’s two white wine DOCGs.

Overlapping the western edge of Taurasi is Fiano di Avellino DOCG. By the mid-20^th century, Fiano had largely been forgotten and abandoned until Antonio Mastroberardino sought out old vines of Fiano remaining in some vineyards around Avellino. Mastroberardino produced its first vintage of Fiano in 1945, making only 30 bottles. The grape’s presence slowly grew from there, but it remained little known and extremely rare through the 1970s. Fiano di Avellino was first established as a DOC in 1978, then upgraded to DOCG in 2003. It is a large area, covering 26 communes around the Sabato and Calore River valleys and the foothills of Mount Partenio, in the Apennines. Some of the snowcapped mountain peaks reach as high as 2,000 meters (6,600 feet) above sea level, and the Fiano vines are generally planted on slopes between 300 and 650 meters (980 and 2,130 feet) in elevation.

The soils of Fiano di Avellino are mostly calcareous clay with some volcanic elements, although given the large size of the denomination, they vary in composition. The eastern part of the DOCG has clay-dominated soils and yields pristine, mineral, lacy Fiano wines. The southern sector is at the lowest elevation and has loosely packed sand. The wines made in this area are lighter bodied, fruity, and best for earlier consumption. The northern section is rich in volcanic tuff and clay, and the Sabato River has a more moderating influence here, resulting in bigger, more savory wines. The northwestern area is higher up in the foothills, with very poor, rocky soils and a thin layer of volcanic ash. The Fiano wines produced here are richer, more powerful, and the smokiest and most ageworthy examples of the grape.

Notable crus for Fiano include Lapio and Candida in the east, Montefredane in the north, and Summonte in the northwest. Winemaking and viticultural decisions, such as harvest timing, length of skin maceration, and time spent on lees, contribute to the diversity of styles.

Fiano di Avellino DOCG requires a minimum of 85% Fiano, and the remainder of the blend may include Coda di Volpe, Greco, and/or Trebbiano Toscano. Riserva wines require a minimum aging of one year and a minimum 12% ABV, increased from 11.5% for Normale wines. The DOCG allows still white wines only.

In the northern portion of the Avellino province is Campania’s other white wine DOCG, the smaller Greco di Tufo DOCG, also authorized in 2003. It spans eight communes on both sides of the Sabato River, up to the border with the Benevento province, and is known for volcanic soils with alluvial deposits from the river. The town of Tufo was named after the soft volcanic rock used for construction. The area around the commune of Tufo has extreme viticulture on very steep slopes, with vineyards planted between 500 and 600 meters (1,640 and 1,970 feet) above sea level. The volcanic soils are rich in clay, limestone, and gravel, with chalk and sulfur elements, and very poor in nutrients. The highly regarded communes of Santa Paolina and Montefusco are at slightly lower elevations, with less-steep slopes, and the soils have larger amounts of clay, organic matter, and iron.

Greco wines have a deeper yellow hue when compared with wines made with other Campanian grapes, such as Fiano, and they are more opulent, with higher alcohol, fuller body, and an oily, tannic texture—often described by locals as “a red dressed like a white.” Greco di Tufo DOCG allows still and sparkling wines made with a minimum of 85% Greco and the remainder Coda di Volpe. The white Riserva wines require at least one year of aging. Spumante wines must be made in the traditional method (metodo classico) and can range from sweetness levels of extra brut to extra dry. Normale sparkling wines must spend at least 18 months on the lees, and a minimum of 36 months is required for Riserva.

Although Falanghina is grown all over Campania and authorized in many DOC blends, it is most closely associated with the northern Benevento province. Here, the Mustilli winery, in Sant’Agata dei Goti, resurrected ancient varieties from old vineyards that were facing extinction, identified the local Falanghina Beneventana variety, and bottled the first monovarietal Falanghina in 1979. Falanghina has surged in popularity over the past few decades, with modern fermentation techniques designed to preserve its aromas and produce clean, fruity, easy-drinking wines. The number of planted hectares of the two Falanghina varieties nearly doubled between 2000 and 2010, and, in 2010, 4.8 million bottles of Falanghina were produced in the province of Benevento alone.

Falanghina del Sannio DOC, established in 2011, covers the entire Benevento province, allowing still white, sparkling, and sweet late-harvest and passito wines based on a minimum of 85% Falanghina. The spumante wines can be made using the tank method, in which case they must range from extra brut to extra dry, or they can be made in the traditional method, requiring a minimum of 12 months on the lees and a final sweetness level of extra brut or brut. All styles can be labeled with one of four subzones: Guardia Sanframondi (Guardiolo), Sant’Agata dei Goti, Solopaca, or Taburno.

The overarching Sannio DOC, with the same four subzones, is for a wide variety of white, rosato, red, sparkling, and sweet wines in the Benevento province. They may be blends or varietally labeled, or they may feature dual varieties on the label (for example, Aglianico-Piedirosso). The white blends must include a minimum of 50% Malvasia Bianca di Candia and/or Trebbiano Toscano, and the red and rosato wines a minimum of 50% Sangiovese.

The overarching Irpinia DOC, elevated from IGT to DOC in 2005, serves the same purpose for the Avellino province, with white wines that must include both Fiano and Greco; red and rosato wines based on a minimum of 70% Aglianico; and other sparkling, sweet, and varietal wines. Red wines from 24 communes can be labeled with the subzone of Campi Taurasini if they include at least 85% Aglianico. These wines might be considered more youthful versions of Taurasi.

The white grape Coda di Volpe Bianca, named for clusters shaped like a fox’s tail, may be bottled as a varietal wine in Sannio or Irpinia DOC, but it is more often used as a blending grape. It has lower acidity and a round, creamy texture that can soften the structure of Fiano or Greco.

Coastal and Island Areas

Closer to the coast in the province of Napoli, Vesuvio DOC is named for the famous volcano and allows a wide range of white, rosato, red, sparkling, and sweet passito and fortified wines. The white wines must include a minimum of 45% Coda di Volpe and/or Caprettone and may also include Falanghina, Greco, and other white grapes. The red and rosato wines must include a minimum 50% Piedirosso; these can also include Aglianico, Olivella, Sciascinoso, and others. The white, red, rosato, and spumante wines may be labeled Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio if they have a higher minimum 12% ABV.

Some experts believe that Coda di Volpe and Caprettone are the same grape variety, although they are very different in both the vineyard and the glass. The vines called Coda di Volpe in the Vesuvius area, for example, are more likely Caprettone, which is the more common variety. Caprettone, named for the shape of a goat’s beard, has much smaller berries and clusters. It also has higher acidity than Coda di Volpe, leading many producers to make Caprettone-based sparkling wines.

The red grape Piedirosso (“red feet”) is named for the red color of its stalks. It’s the second most planted red grape in Campania and the top red in the Napoli province, appearing in a number of DOCs and IGTs. It has a pale red color, flavors of red berries and tar, and floral and herbal notes. Because of its lower acidity and softer tannins, Piedirosso is often used as a blending grape with Aglianico.

On the island of Ischia, off the coast of Naples, Ischia DOC allows red blends based on Piedirosso and Guarnaccia, the local name for Grenache. The white and sparkling wines of Ischia rely on the local grapes Forastera and Biancolella, which are both herbal and saline. Forastera has a richer mouthfeel, and Biancolella is brighter and fresher. Varietal and passito Piedirosso wines are also made.

Costa d’Amalfi DOC, best known for the wines of Marisa Cuomo, allows a wide range of white, rosato, red, sparkling, and passito wines. Whites are based on Biancolella, Falanghina, and other grapes, while red and rosato wines are primarily based on Piedirosso, along with Aglianico, Sciascinoso, and others. The wines may be labeled by one of three subzones: Furore, Ravello, or Tramonti, which is especially renowned for its centenarian vineyards.

North of Naples toward Lazio is Falerno del Massica DOC, named for the famous Falernian wine. The DOC features Falanghina-based whites, Aglianico-based reds, and varietal Primitivo.

Basilicata

Southwest of Campania, Basilicata is a mountainous and nearly landlocked region, with small coastlines on the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Gulf of Taranto. This region represents the instep, or arch, of Italy’s boot. There is very little industry here, and agriculture on the rocky, rugged terrain is generally low yielding. In the 20^th century, Basilicata was marked by poverty and emigration from the Italian south. Today, it is perhaps best known for the ancient city of Matera, a UNESCO World Heritage site and the 2019 European Capital of Culture, where caves are carved into the calcareous stone of a steep ravine.

Basilicata produces about 85,000 hectoliters (958,000 cases) of wine from 2,050 hectares (5,000 acres) of vineyards, making up less than 0.2% of Italy’s total wine production. It has one DOCG, four DOCs, and one region-wide IGP. More than four-fifths of its wine is red (82%). As in neighboring Campania, the leading grape variety is Aglianico, with 56% of all plantings.

North of the capital city of Potenza, Basilicata’s most important wine region, Aglianico del Vulture, is adjacent to Campania’s Irpinia. Mount Vulture, named for its seven peaks that resemble the bird of prey with its wings outspread, is an extinct volcano and geologically older than Mount Taurasi and Mount Taburno. The side of the volcano is dotted with scescio, grottoes built into the tuff, first constructed by Albanian refugees fleeing the Ottoman Empire in the 15^th century and later used as wine cellars. Old vine training methods introduced by the Albanians can still be seen in the area, including a capanno (shed or hut), in which three posts are tied together like a tripod. The posts can be positioned to create a canopy and provide protection from sun and wind.

Aglianico del Vulture DOC, established in 1971, represents about a quarter of Basilicata’s total wine production. Unlike Campania’s Aglianico-based denominations, Aglianico del Vulture requires all wines to be made of 100% Aglianico. In addition to red wines, it allows Aglianico-based traditional method sparkling wines, which must spend at least nine months on the lees.

A Superiore version was elevated to a separate DOCG in 2010, as Aglianico del Vulture Superiore DOCG. The DOCG is for red wines made of 100% Aglianico, with a minimum 13.5% ABV, compared with 12.5% ABV in the DOC. The Superiore wines must be aged for at least three years, including one year in barrel and one year in bottle. A Superiore Riserva version must be aged for a minimum five years, with at least two years in barrel and one year in bottle.

Mount Vulture is the only Italian volcano east of the Apennines. The mountain blocks hot winds from northern Africa and is open to the cool breezes of the Adriatic Sea, resulting in a climate that is cooler than that of Taurasi. With less-fertile soils and a large diurnal shift— at higher elevations, it can be up to 20 degrees Celsius (36 degrees Fahrenheit)—the Aglianico grown here has high levels of tannin, acidity, sugar development, and anthocyanins. The Vulture biotype of Aglianico has the highest intensity of fruit expression and flavors.

While Vulture is a large area, covering 15 communes, the key towns for wine production include Barile, Venosa, and Maschito. The volcano’s highest point is just over 1,320 meters (4,330 feet), but all vineyards in the denominations must be planted between 200 and 700 meters (660 and 2,300 feet) above sea level.

There are several different altitudes, expositions, calderas, craters, and lakes on the volcano, providing a variety of terroirs and microclimates. The effusive volcanic activity created many different layers over time. The areas closest to the volcano’s summit have more tuff, while other areas formed from deposits of a large lake have more sedimentary and calcareous soils. Recognizing these different expressions of terroir, there are 70 official contrade (hamlets or districts) that may be listed on labels, although they are not widely known and some producers prefer to label with the name of a commune instead.

Basilicata is also home to varieties from the Malvasia group, including the spicy and aromatic Malvasia Bianca di Basilicata, which some experts believe is the same as Malvasia Bianca Lunga and Malvasia Bianca di Candia, as well as the lightly aromatic but very rare red Malvasia Nera di Basilicata, which is used mainly as a blending grape. Basilicata’s lesser-known DOCs allow wines based on these Malvasias, as well as Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Primitivo, and other grapes.

Calabria

Just south of Basilicata is the region of Calabria, the toe of the Italian boot. This rugged peninsula extends toward Sicily and separates the Tyrrhenian and Ionian Seas. Because of its large coastline, it was the location of several important settlements of Magna Graecia. Cremissa, the ancient name for the city of Cirò, was famous for its temple devoted to wine, and its wines were said to be the reward for winners of the ancient Olympic games. The Greeks moved farther inland in Calabria than they did in other regions, where their settlements were largely coastal.

Today, Calabria’s level of wine production is minimal. Most of the wine regions are on the two coasts. In recent decades, the industry has suffered because of the degradation of ports and infrastructure, an aging workforce, and the EU’s vine pull scheme, which resulted in a 30% decrease in plantings in the first decade of the 21^st century.

With production declining, Calabria now has 8,900 hectares (22,000 acres) of vineyards, producing just 270,000 hectoliters (3 million cases) of wine, the fourth smallest of any Italian region. It has 1 DOCG, 9 DOCs, and 10 IGPs. More than three-quarters of its wine production is red, and its top grape is Gaglioppo, which makes up 48% of all plantings. Calabria is largely focused on bulk and table wine, with only 12% of production at the DOC level.

Of Calabria’s nine DOCs, Cirò DOC, named for the city on the Ionian coast, has the most market relevance. White wines must include a minimum of 80% Greco Bianco, while red and rosato wines require at least 80% Gaglioppo. In 2025, Ciro Classico, was elevated to a DOCG, which requires a minimum of 90% Gagglioppo aged for a minimum of 36 months with 6 in wood.

Gaglioppo is one of Italy’s most ancient native varieties. It is an offspring of Sangiovese and Mantonico Bianco, and therefore a sibling of both Frappato and Nerello Mascalese. Gaglioppo retains its high acidity in this warm southern region and is resistant to frost but less so to drought. It oxidizes easily and can have a pale red-orange color, with rough tannins and flavors of red berries, dried herbs, and underbrush. Poorly made wines can be astringent, with harsh tannins and acidity, but the best can be reminiscent of a lighter, more saline Nebbiolo or a fresher Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

In the late 1980s, Librandi, the dominant producer in Calabria, introduced its Gravello wine, a so-called Super Calabrian blend of Gaglioppo and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in French barriques, and labeled as an IGT wine. Later, Cirò DOC was amended to allow Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot in blends; these deepen the color and add international appeal. For monovarietal Gaglioppo wines, some winemakers use longer maceration times at cooler fermentation temperatures to help polymerize tannins and stabilize color.

Calabria’s Greco Bianco, unrelated to Campania’s Greco, has a lighter body, is not as tannic, and has a sweeter aromatic profile than Greco. Studies show that it is genetically identical to Malvasia di Lipari and Malvasia di Sardegna, but it is not yet recognized as such in the national registry. Greco Bianco is used only for dry white wines in Cirò DOC but reaches its best quality expression in the sweet passito wines of Greco di Bianco DOC. (Note that Greco Bianco is the grape variety and Greco di Bianco is the denomination.) Named for the commune of Bianco, at the southeastern tip of Calabria, Greco di Bianco DOC requires a minimum of 95% of the Greco Bianco variety and at least one year of aging for the air-dried wines.

Sicily

Separated from the Italian peninsula by just 3 kilometers (2 miles) at the narrowest point of the Strait of Messina, Sicily (Sicilia in Italian) is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, at more than 25,000 square kilometers (nearly 10,000 square miles) in size. Only a 20-minute ferry ride from the mainland, the autonomous region of Sicily often feels entirely separate from the rest of Italy. Perhaps more than any other Italian region, Sicily is a mix of cultural influences.

The earliest tribes were the Sicani on the western side of the island and the Siculi (the source of Sicily’s name) in the east. These tribes likely came from the Iberian Peninsula and Calabria, respectively. The Elymi, believed to be from ancient Troy, were in the far northwest. When, in the eighth century BCE, the Phoenicians settled on the western coast and the Greeks on the eastern coast, they brought viticultural knowledge and greatly expanded plantings, although evidence of winemaking in Sicily predates their arrival. The earliest winemaking in Sicily was likely from wild grapes, and the Greeks criticized these wines as weak and unrefined compared with Greece’s best examples.

With its fertile soils, sun-drenched climate, and strategic position in the Mediterranean Sea, Sicily was a frequent target for conquest and rule by outsiders. As a province of the Roman Empire, Sicily served as Rome’s granary for almost six centuries. After the fall of Rome, Sicily was controlled by Vandals, Goths, and Byzantines. The Muslim conquests began in the ninth century CE as armies from northern Africa and Spain invaded the island, and Islamic control of Sicily lasted for nearly two centuries.

Norman rulers from northwestern France arrived in the Middle Ages, succeeded by a line of German (Swabian) kings, most notably King Frederick II. The Spanish crown of Aragon claimed Sicily after overthrowing the French house of Anjou and eventually united it with the Kingdom of Naples, collectively calling the area the Kingdom of Two Sicilies. Periods of rule by the Piedmontese house of Savoy, the Austrian house of Habsburg, the Spanish house of Bourbon, and others culminated with Garibaldi’s forces conquering the island in 1860, when Sicily became part of a united Italy.

A common thread throughout Sicily’s history is that it has been valued—and often exploited—for its abundant agricultural resources, including wine. The British merchant John Woodhouse arrived in Marsala in 1770 and saw an opportunity to make cheaper fortified wines in the style of Port and Madeira, investing in the expansion of viticulture and winemaking infrastructure. The vineyard boom continued when phylloxera hit France in the 1860s, and French merchants increasingly turned to Sicily for inexpensive vino da taglio. In the 20^th century, Sicilian wine co-ops were among the first in Italy, and their focus was on large quantities of bulk wine.

A renewed focus on quality wine emerged in the 1970s and 1980s. An important figure in this era was Diego Planeta, who became president of Cantine Settesoli, a high-quality co-op based in Menfi, in 1973, and president of the state-owned Istituto Regionale della Vite e del Vino (IRVV) in 1985. Planeta believed that the Sicilian wine industry had to be exposed to what was happening outside Sicily, sending Sicilian enologists abroad to study modern viticulture and winemaking techniques. The IRVV also planted experimental vineyards to study both native and international grape varieties.

A new wave of Sicilian wineries, winemaking consultants, and quality-minded producers emerged during this period, with the founding of new wineries and younger generations of historic family wineries refocused on quality production, including Marco De Bartoli, COS, Donnafugata, Planeta, and Benanti. While international varieties helped to expand the appeal of Sicilian wine to global export markets, more recently the focus has returned to Sicily’s unique native grapes, including Nero d’Avola and Nerello Mascalese.

Sicily is at the southernmost end of Italian viticulture, stretching below the 37th parallel, farther south than the northern tip of Africa. It has a Mediterranean climate, with abundant sunshine and warmth, but its climate is also the most variable of any Italian region. The average elevation on the island is more than 500 meters (1,640 feet) above sea level, and much of the climatic inconsistency is because of altitude. On this mountainous, hilly island, some areas are blasted with the hot sirocco wind coming from Africa, while others are sheltered by mountain barriers. Most of the island is semiarid, with only the northeastern corner receiving considerable rainfall, and snow is common at higher elevations. The generally warm and dry environment makes organic viticulture possible, and 34% of Sicily’s vineyards are organic.

Today, Sicily has the most vineyard area of any Italian region, with 119,250 hectares (295,000 acres) of plantings. Yet, because of lower yields, lower planting density, and the prevalence of old bush vines, it is only fourth largest in wine production, making 5.9 million hectoliters (65 million cases) of wine in 2022. Only about 20% of Sicilian wine is bottled on the island; much of it is still shipped in bulk to the mainland to be bottled or blended into other wines.

Sicily has 1 DOCG, 23 DOCs, and 7 IGPs, and today 38% of its production is at the DOC/G level—a number that has surged since the island-wide Sicilia DOC was promoted from IGP in 2011. About two-thirds of Sicily’s production is white, and one-third is red and rosato. Sicily’s most planted variety is Catarratto, followed by Nero d’Avola. The largest concentration of plantings is in the western part of the island, particularly the provinces of Trapani, Agrigento, and Palermo, with fewer vines in the eastern provinces.

Mount Etna

On the eastern coast of Sicily, just north of the city of Catania, Mount Etna is the largest active volcano in Europe, at about 3,350 meters (11,000 feet) above sea level. It is also one of the world’s most active volcanoes and is almost constantly erupting, with its exact height varying based on periodic deposits from eruptions and collapsing of the crater rims.

Documentation of volcanic activity dates to 1,500 BCE, although evidence of eruptions goes back much further. Mount Etna was formed by the collision of the African and Eurasian tectonic plates and began as an underwater volcano about 500,000 years ago, gradually rising above sea level as layers were added by eruptions over time. While viticulture on an active volcano may sound like a dangerous proposition, Etna’s eruptions are generally considered effusive rather than explosive, meaning gases escape easily rather than building up pressure, and lava flows are relatively gentle and slow moving.

Viticulture has taken place on Etna since well before the Greeks arrived. In the 19^th century, Etna was a major source of vino da taglio and the most planted area of Sicily, with about 50,000 hectares (123,600 acres) of vineyards producing wine. Its output declined through the impacts of poverty, war, the loss of the rural labor force, and the shrinking of the bulk export market. Fortunately, interest in Etna wines reemerged before its old bush vines, stone terraces in the vineyards, and ancient lava stone palmenti were entirely lost.

Etna became Sicily’s first DOC in 1968. The DOC covers 20 communes and forms the shape of a backward C along the northern, eastern, and southern slopes of the volcano. Sicilian producers, including the Benanti family and the winemaker Salvo Foti, conducted important research and brought attention to Etna in the 1980s and 1990s. This was followed by foreign investment and the arrival of outsiders in the 2000s—Frank Cornelissen from Belgium, Marco de Grazia from Florence, and Andrea Franchetti from Rome—which sparked a planting boom and the emergence of Etna wines on the global stage.

Often called an island on an island, Etna’s climate differs from the rest of Sicily’s, more closely resembling that of northern Italy: higher altitude, more rainfall, cooler temperatures, a larger diurnal shift, and harvest as late as October. Vineyards begin at about 300 meters (980 feet) above sea level, and the DOC allows plantings up to 800 meters (2,600 feet) on the northern slope, which has the largest number of producers and is most renowned for red grapes. Vineyards can be planted above 900 meters (3,000 feet) on the eastern slope and above 1,000 meters (3,300 feet) on the southern slope. Partly because of these higher altitudes, more white grapes are grown in these areas.

At higher altitudes, the diurnal temperature variation can exceed 30 degrees Celsius (54 degrees Fahrenheit). Wind currents blow up and down the mountain slopes, and Etna’s average wind speed is 2 to 4 meters (6.5 to 13 feet) per second, twice that of Barolo. The eastern grecale and southeasterly sirocco winds bring precipitation to those sides of the mountain; Etna’s eastern slope, the closest to the Ionian Sea and the most exposed to wind and rain, receives an average 2,000 millimeters (79 inches) of rainfall annually, compared with 800 millimeters (31 inches) on the northern slope—another reason for more Nerello Mascalese in the north and more Carricante in the east.

Alberello vine training is common on Etna, and bush vines, because they are freestanding, can tolerate the high winds. At higher elevations, where it is cooler, the vines have 360-degree exposure to sunlight, which aids grape ripening. They are trained lower to the ground, absorbing heat that is stored in and radiated from the black volcanic ash. The volcanic soils are generally dark, coarse, rocky, and well draining, restraining vigor in the vines, although they differ throughout the area based on the layering of lava flows.

The great diversity in geology, elevation, and climate within Etna has resulted in a closer examination of its terroir and comparisons with the differences found in vineyard sites within Burgundy or Barolo. Etna’s contrade were officially authorized beginning with the 2011 vintage, but many producers had begun labeling their Etna wines by contrada in the years prior. Contrade are largely based on geological formations established by different lava flows. They are not single vineyards but districts, zones, or neighborhoods, similar to frazioni or menzioni geografiche aggiuntive (MGAs). Today, Etna DOC recognizes 142 official contrade, and awareness of them is growing.

Red wines make up 55% of the production in Etna DOC, which also authorizes white, rosato, and spumante wines. White wines require at least 60% Carricante, and the remainder can include the Catarrattos, Minella Bianca, Grecanico Dorato, and other white grapes. Etna Bianco Superiore must include a minimum of 80% Carricante and can come only from the commune of Milo, on the eastern slope. Red, rosato, and spumante wines require a minimum of 80% Nerello Mascalese, and the remainder may include Nerello Cappuccio and even white grapes. A Riserva category for red wines requires at least four years of aging, including one year in wood. Sparkling wines must be made in the traditional method, with at least 18 months on the lees, and may be brut or extra dry.

While Nerello Mascalese, representing 79% of Etna’s red plantings, is the star for red wines, the addition of Nerello Cappuccio (locally Nerello Mantellato) to the Etna Rosso blend can contribute fleshy fruit and darker color and soften acidity and tannins. Nerello Cappuccio is used in higher percentages in the southern sector, where many old vine plantings are found, and some producers are bottling monovarietal Nerello Cappuccio wines labeled as Sicilia DOC or Terre Siciliane IGT.

Etna Bianco wines show a wide range of stylistic diversity depending on growing area, vine age, the blend added to Carricante, and winemaking decisions, such as malolactic fermentation, lees contact, and type of aging vessel.

Other Regions of Northeastern Sicily

Northeast of Etna, at the tip of Cape Peloro, in the province of Messina, is Faro DOC, where Nerello Mascalese is the featured grape. The small DOC is for red wines only, requiring a blend of 45%–60% Nerello Mascalese, 15%–30% Nerello Cappuccio, 5%–10% Nocera, and the optional inclusion of up to 15% Nero d’Avola, Gaglioppo, and/or Sangiovese.

The coastal area has soils of sand and clay. Surrounded by both the Tyrrhenian and Ionian Seas, it is exposed to rain and humidity from the sirocco wind, with fewer and lower hillsides to provide protection as compared to areas farther west. Plantings are minuscule, and the appellation was in danger of extinction in the 1990s, but producers such as Palari and Bonavita have reinvigorated it.

Nocera was the most important variety here in the 19^th century, when the area’s strategic location near the ports made it a ready source of darkly colored vino da taglio for France. Nocera adds lush richness, full body, deep color, acidity, and smooth tannins to Faro blends, and some producers are making monovarietal bottlings.

Nocera was thought to be the main grape of the famous Mamertinum wine favored by Julius Caesar and Pliny the Elder in ancient Rome. The wine’s name lives on in Mamertino DOC, near the port town of Milazzo, with white wines based on Grillo and Inzolia (the Sicilian name for Ansonica) and reds based on Calabrese (Nero d’Avola) and Nocera. The soils have more iron and a brown tint, and the area is more protected from wind and rainfall than Faro thanks to the north-facing foothills of the Peloritani and Nebrodi mountains.

Off the northern coast of Sicily in the Tyrrhenian Sea, a short ferry ride from Milazzo, are the Aeolian Islands, also referred to as the Lipari Islands, named for the largest and most populated island. In addition to Lipari, the principal islands are Salina, Vulcano, Panarea, Stromboli, Alicudi, and Filicudi. The archipelago was formed by volcanic activity, and the islands of Stromboli and Vulcano still have ongoing eruptions. Salina has the most vineyard plantings.

Malvasia delle Lipari DOC covers all the islands and allows for sweet white, passito, and fortified wines based on 92%–95% Malvasia di Lipari. (Note that Malvasia di Lipari is the grape variety, and Malvasia delle Lipari is the DOC.) The wines must also include 5%–8% Corinto Nero, a local red grape that some believe is a mutation of Sangiovese and that gives the wines a coppery tint. Studies indicate that Malvasia di Lipari is genetically identical to Calabria’s Greco Bianco, Sardinia’s Malvasia di Sardegna, Madeira’s Malvasia Candida, Croatia’s Malvasia Dubrovačka, and Spain’s Malvasía de Sitges.

The passito wines are the most classic expression of Malvasia delle Lipari DOC and represent about 80% of production. After being harvested late in the season, the grapes are dried on cane mats outside in the sun for about 7 to 15 days. The bunches are turned over at least twice a day for even drying and covered at night to prevent mold, dew, and rot. The wines are delicate and fresh, with flavors of honey, peach, apricot, and orange peel. The passito and fortified versions require a minimum of 60 grams per liter of residual sugar. Dry Malvasia di Lipari wines are made under Salina IGT.

Other Regions of Southeastern Sicily

The southeastern corner of Sicily is generally flatter, with lower hills and sandier soils. It includes the ancient city of Siracusa, settled by the Greeks in the eighth century BCE, as well as the towns of Noto and Ragusa, celebrated for their baroque architecture. Historically, there was abundant and varied agriculture here, including tomatoes, citrus, olives, and wheat.

The plain between the Dirillo and Ippari Rivers was highly regarded for viticulture by the Romans. The city of Vittoria was founded in this area in the early 17^th century CE. Vittoria became one of the most important ports for the export of Sicilian wine, before the impact of phylloxera and the weakening of export markets in the 20^th century.

Today, the area surrounding the city of Vittoria is home to Sicily’s first and only DOCG, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, established in 2005. The red wines must be a blend of 50%–70% Nero d’Avola, with 30%–50% Frappato. Wines labeled with the Classico subzone, which surrounds the most historic growing area, require longer aging, until March 31 of the second year following harvest (about 18 months).

The heart of the Classico area, around the town of Vittoria, includes a plateau at about 175 to 300 meters (570 to 980 feet) above sea level, rising to higher elevations around the town of Chiaramonte Gulfi, in the foothills of the Hyblaean Mountains. While Nero d’Avola is grown here and throughout Sicily, this is the primary and best growing area for Frappato. The soils are terra rossa, red sand over limestone, resulting in Frappato with additional delicacy and aromatic lift. Winds are strong in this area, reducing disease pressure, but producers must consider planting orientation to prevent the winds from damaging grapes.

In Vittoria, cerasuolo is a red wine, with the name referring to the cherry flavors in the wine or the red color of the soils. Frappato contributes lightness and floral fragrance to the blend, while Nero d’Avola brings richness, structure, and color.

The Vittoria area is home to star producers such as COS and Arianna Occhipinti, and, outside the DOCG, monovarietal Frappato wines are drawing the attention of wine professionals for their light body, crunchy freshness, and versatility at the table. Vittoria DOC shares the boundaries of Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG and allows youthful novello wines as well as varietal wines made of Nero d’Avola (Calabrese), Frappato, and Inzolia.

Nero d’Avola is believed to have originated in the town of Avola, just a few kilometers east of Noto on Sicily’s coast, and it is still the most important variety in the surrounding area. Eloro DOC straddles the two provinces of Siracusa and Ragusa and authorizes red blends and varietal wines made of Nero d’Avola, Frappato, and Pignatello (Perricone). Its official subzone, Pachino, is considered a grand cru for Nero d’Avola, and red wines labeled Eloro Pachino require a minimum of 80% Nero d’Avola, although in practice most are monovarietal. South of Noto, Pachino is at the very southernmost tip of Sicily, at Cape Passero. It is one of the hottest parts of the island, with summer temperatures often above 30 degrees Celsius (86 degrees Fahrenheit), and harvest in Pachino occurs about two weeks earlier than in Noto. The land is flatter near the coast, rising to about 50 meters (165 feet) above sea level. Pachino is surrounded by the sea, and diurnal temperature variations are minimal. Rainfall is also minimal during the growing season, and alberello training is common. The expressions of Nero d’Avola from this area are powerful, concentrated, and full bodied, with intense aromas and flavors.

The soils of Pachino are generally brown in color, with calcareous clay and a high saline content. The darker soils radiate more heat to bush vines growing close to the ground. A key attribute of Pachino is that mineral content and soil types can vary greatly within short distances. Pachino has several contrade that—although not officially recognized on labels—are famous for their unique expressions of Nero d’Avola, including Baroni, Bufaleffi, Maccari, and San Lorenzo. Some producers, such as Gulfi, make bottlings from all four sites and embed the contrada name within the proprietary name of the wine. The Eloro contrade wines are among the most sought-after expressions of Nero d’Avola.

The rare sweet wines of this area, Moscato di Noto and Moscato di Siracusa, are made from Moscato Bianco and were absorbed into the broader Noto DOC and Siracusa DOC, respectively. The air-dried passito versions are best known. Unlike Zibibbo, Moscato Bianco has thin and delicate skins that burn in the sun. When the grapes are dried outside, the wine has a deeper color and riper flavors of dried fruit and caramel, and shows increased oxidation. When dried indoors in a cooler, temperature-controlled environment, the wines retain more fruit and floral freshness.

Another white grape of southeastern Sicily is Albanello, which makes wines that are bright and crisp, with floral, herbal, and white stone fruit flavors. Although there are only a handful of plantings, it is grown by key producers, such as Arianna Occhipinti and Gulfi. In Occhipinti’s flagship SP68 Bianco wine, it is blended with Moscato di Alessandria (Zibibbo).

Marsala

At the western end of Sicily in the province of Trapani, Marsala is a historic port dating to its founding by the Carthaginians in the fourth century BCE. Its present name comes from its time under Arabic rulers who called it Mars el-Allah (“Allah’s harbor”). Arabic and Spanish influences are strong in western Sicily, which is the most planted part of the island for viticulture, and the wines of Marsala historically were produced using fractional blending in perpetuum, the Italian name for the solera systems used in Jerez.

The British merchant John Woodhouse is generally credited with “inventing” the current style of Marsala, although winemaking was present here long before his arrival. Woodhouse introduced the process of fortification in 1773, aiming to create a less expensive fortified wine in the style of Port, Sherry, and Madeira. Another British entrepreneur, Benjamin Ingham, set up a rival company near Woodhouse in 1812 and furthered the industrialization of Marsala and the expansion of its export markets.

Marsala’s vineyards were historically dominated by Grillo, Inzolia, and Catarratto, but, after the attacks of powdery mildew in the mid-19^th century and phylloxera in the early 20^th century, the high-yielding Catarratto became the primary choice for replanting. Catarratto yields lower-alcohol wines that oxidize easily, and the industry developed a greater reliance on grape sugar, spirit, and other additives to mask the base wines. Marsala’s reputation suffered in the 20^th century, and it became primarily known as a cheap cooking wine.

The Marsala disciplinare was revised in 1984 in an attempt to restrict some industrial practices. The updated regulations limited the sourcing of grapes to the province of Trapani and restricted the use of mosto cotto (cooked must) and the addition of such flavorings as spices, fruit, and eggs. The regulations also added the use of Damaschino, another high-yielding and low-alcohol white grape variety, and reinstated a version made with red grapes.

Marsala DOC requires Oro (“golden”) and Ambra (“amber”) wines to be made from any combination of the white grapes Catarratto, Inzolia, Grillo, and/or Damaschino. The Rubino (“ruby”) wines must have a minimum of 70% of the red grapes Perricone (Pignatello), Nero d’Avola (Calabrese), and/or Nerello Mascalese. The Ambra wines require the addition of at least 1% mosto cotto through a process called concia. This is an inexpensive way to mimic the tawny color of barrel aging and is prohibited for Oro and Rubino wines.

All Marsala wines must be aged in barrels of oak or cherrywood, although the first four months may be in alternative types of vessels. To promote steady oxidation, the barrels are not entirely filled or topped off. The most basic level, Fine, requires at least one year of aging; Superiore requires a minimum two years; and Superiore Riserva requires a minimum four years. These styles can have additives of coloring or flavoring, such as sifone (a sweet and syrupy mistelle), mosto cotto, and rectified concentrated grape juice.

Additional labeling terms were developed to identify recipes that appealed to specific markets, such as Italy Particular (IP), Superior Old Marsala (SOM), London Particular (LP), and Garibaldi Dolce (GD). Nearly all Marsala falls into the Fine and Superiore categories; as of 2010, 80.7% of production was Fine and 18.6% Superiore.

At the higher quality levels, a Marsala aged in the perpetuum system and labeled Solera must be aged for a minimum of five years and does not carry a vintage date. A wine that has no additions other than grape spirit can be labeled Vergine; these must also be aged for a minimum of five years. If a Vergine or Solera wine is labeled Riserva or Stravecchio, at least 10 years of aging is required.

The grapes used for the sifone, mosto cotto, or fortification spirit must come from within Marsala DOC. The Fine wines require a minimum 17.5% ABV, and all other styles require 18% ABV or higher. Marsala is also designated by sweetness level, with secco having a maximum 40 grams per liter of residual sugar, semisecco between 40 and 100 grams per liter, and dolce having at least 100 grams per liter or higher. All Vergine wines must be secco.

Today, there is a reemergence of quality-minded producers, challenging Marsala’s reputation as an inexpensive cooking wine, with a focus on artisanal base wines, drier styles, and higher-quality grape varieties, such as Grillo. Marco De Bartoli is the standard-bearer in this area, having founded his winery in 1978. His most iconic wine, Vecchio Samperi, is named for the contrada where his family’s cellar is located, tying the wine to a sense of place—which was virtually unheard of in Marsala when the wine was first released, with the 1980 vintage. This vino da tavola does not qualify for Marsala DOC because it is unfortified and its ABV is lower than the minimum; it is made in the traditional solera style of Marsala that was used before Woodhouse’s arrival.

Pantelleria

About 100 kilometers (60 miles) southwest of Sicily, and 60 kilometers (35 miles) from Tunisia, is the volcanic island of Pantelleria. The island is nearly constantly whipped by winds of more than 20 kilometers (12 miles) per hour. The climate is hot, dry, and sunny; the soils are nutrient poor, sandy volcanic ash; and the topography is jagged and rocky, with varied slopes and elevations formed by different volcanic eruptions.

Zibibbo is at home here in the hot, dry, windy climate. Unlike Moscato Bianco, Zibibbo has large berries and thick skins and can withstand wind and sunburn. Historically, it was popular for both table grapes and raisins, and its Sicilian name is derived from zibibb, the Arabic word for “dried grape” or “raisin.”

The freestanding bush vines on the island are trained in the alberello system. For wind protection, the vines are buried low to the ground in circular, concave pits. The pits collect dew and moisture, preserving the limited water availability for the vines and preventing evaporation.

Vineyard parcels on Pantelleria are small and highly fragmented, divided over the centuries under Muslim inheritance laws. Labor is expensive and time-consuming in this rugged terrain, and many goods need to be imported to the island. Since the cost of making wine is higher on Pantelleria than elsewhere in Sicily, where many inexpensive wines are produced, Pantelleria’s producers have distinguished themselves with premium products that can attract a higher price point.

While Pantelleria DOC allows many types of wine, from sparkling to fortified, its most renowned offerings are the sweet Moscato di Pantelleria and Passito di Pantelleria. These wines are made similarly, from late-harvest Zibibbo dried in the sun either on or off the vine. Moscato di Pantelleria is lighter, fresher, and less sweet, with flavors of dried herbs, fig, ginger, and dried apricot. Passito di Pantelleria is sweeter, lusher, darker, and more concentrated, with flavors of honey, orange marmalade, raisins, and dates.

The traditional method of making sweet wines on Pantelleria is to add dried grapes to a base wine of fresh grapes during fermentation (similar to the method of Tokaji Aszú but without botrytis). Grapes are dried either outdoors in the sun in a walled area called a stenditoio, or in drying tunnels called serre, which intensify the heat and accelerate the pace of drying. There are three stages in the process, including the harvesting of fresh grapes and two degrees of drying: passolata grapes are semidried, with about 25%–40% of their juice as sugar, and passa Malaga grapes are fully dried raisins, reduced to only one-quarter of their original weight, with 55% of their syrup becoming sugar. It is the use of the passa Malaga that gives Passito di Pantelleria its deeper color and more concentrated, raisinated flavors.

Wine styles can vary based on the ratio of dried grapes to fresh must, drying method, aging vessel, and vineyard area. Given the varied terrain and fragmented vineyards of Pantelleria, there are some well-known contrade used on labels. Marco De Bartoli released his first Passito di Pantelleria in 1984, named Bukkuram (“father of the vineyard”) for the contrada in which the grapes are grown. Donnafugata released the first vintage of its iconic Ben Ryé (“son of the wind”) in 1989, sourcing grapes from higher elevations on the island, giving this passito wine more acidity and freshness.

Other Regions of Western and Central Sicily

In recent years, there has been a resurgence of unfortified dry wines in western Sicily, from varieties such as Grillo, Zibibbo, and Pignatello, bottled under the island-wide Sicilia DOC or Terre Siciliane IGT. Inzolia is a rare example of a tannic white grape variety, with low natural acidity, and, in the past, it was well suited to the oxidative character of Marsala. Today, a better understanding of the grape has led to its use for bright, crisp, citrusy, and lighter-bodied Sicilian whites, and it is authorized in most Sicilian DOCs.

In the lagoon off Sicily’s western coast, across from the salt pans of Marsala, is the tiny island of Mozia, which was once a major port and trading post for the Phoenicians. Joseph Whitaker, the nephew of the Marsala producer Benjamin Ingham, first planted Grillo on the island in the 19^th century. It’s a low-lying area with a unique microclimate, and the topsoil in the vineyards is composed of seashells and shards of ancient Phoenician pottery. Tasca d’Almerita purchases the grapes from the island and makes a dry Grillo wine that is light, delicate, and salty.

In addition to the island-wide denominations, there are other large DOCs of note. Menfi DOC, on the southwestern coast, in the Trapani and Agrigento provinces, is noteworthy as the home of Planeta and the Settesoli co-op. The southwestern part of the island is hot and arid, affected by the strong sirocco winds. Harvest here is the earliest in Sicily, as early as mid-July. The hot, dry, and windy conditions make organic, biodynamic, and sustainable viticulture popular in this region. The DOC allows a wide range of white, red, rosato, sparkling, sweet, and varietal wines.

Central Sicily has higher elevations, generally about 400 to 900 meters (1,300 to 3,000 feet) above sea level, and has one of Sicily’s only truly continental climates. Vineyards are far apart, surrounded by wheat, mountains, and valleys, with cooler temperatures and extreme diurnal variations. The very large Contea di Sclafani DOC, in north-central Sicily, where the provinces of Palermo, Agrigento, and Caltanissetta meet, is home to some of the island’s major producers, including Tasca d’Almerita, Castellucci Miano, and Feudo Montoni. It was originally a catchall DOC, like Menfi, allowing many different styles and grape varieties, but it was modified in 2017 to focus on white wines based on Catarratto and reds based on Nero d’Avola and/or Perricone, including dry and late-harvest versions of both.

Sardinia

After Sicily, Sardinia (Sardegna in Italian) is the second largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. It is closer to the French island of Corsica, with which it has much in common culturally and geologically, than to the Italian peninsula. Like Sicily, it is an autonomous region with a mix of cultural influences.

A dominant feature of the island is the presence of thousands of nuraghi (plural of nuraghe), truncated conic towers built with basalt stones by early Sardinian peoples during the Bronze Age. The Greeks tried to penetrate the island but were largely unsuccessful because of the earlier Phoenician settlements. A strategically located island, Sardinia was a frequent target of conquest and came under periods of rule by various groups, including Romans, Vandals, and Byzantines. Sardinia also has the most enduring Spanish influence of any Italian region, a result of four centuries of rule by the house of Aragon and the Spanish crown. Both the local dialect, Sardo, and Catalan are officially recognized languages on the island. The link to Spain is reflected in the presence of grapes such as Cannonau (Garnacha) and Carignano (Cariñena). Sardinia’s tie to Italy began when it was given to the Piedmontese house of Savoy in the 18^th century.

Sardinia has rocky, rugged terrain, and its geology is one of the oldest and most diverse in Italy. Formations dating back 500 million years, and long periods of erosion and metamorphic activity, have resulted in a mix of volcanic lava, basalt, granite, schist, sandstone, limestone, marls, and other soils. The mountainous and hilly interior of the island is home to about four million sheep raised for milk and cheese—half of the total Italian sheep population—and is where 80% of all Italian cork is produced.

Sardinia’s wine production is a smaller part of its agricultural economy. While Sardinia is nearly the size of Sicily in total land area, it produces less than one-eighth of Sicily’s wine volume. Sardinia makes just about 684,000 hectoliters (7.6 million cases) of wine annually from its 26,700 hectares (66,000 acres) of vineyard plantings. About two-thirds of its wine production is red and the remainder white, with 57% at the DOC/G level. The island has 1 DOCG, 17 DOCs, and 15 IGPs. Its top grape varieties are Cannonau (35%) and Vermentino (28%). Both grow all over the island, but Vermentino is more prevalent in the north and Cannonau in the center and south.

Vermentino-Based Denominations

Sardinia is home to about three-quarters of Italy’s Vermentino, with 4,500 hectares (11,100 acres) of the total 6,000 hectares (14,800 acres) planted in Italy. Compared with Vermentino grown in other areas, such as Liguria and Tuscany, Sardinian Vermentino can be creamier, waxier, and fuller bodied. The igneous soils of the island are nutrient poor and restrain vigor, and the harsh winds thicken the grapes’ skins.

Sardinian Vermentino reaches its peak of complexity, austerity, and ageworthiness in the region’s first and only DOCG, Vermentino di Gallura, which covers the northeastern corner of the island. The soils here are pink granite, rare in Italy, with high acidity and mineral content along with some sand and clay. The area is sunny, surrounded by Mediterranean scrub, and exposed to constant, salty sea winds. The poor, rocky, granitic soils reflect heat, which promotes ripeness, and the wines have a pronounced minerality, aromatic richness, and saline character.

The DOCG requires a minimum of 95% Vermentino, and, for Normale wines, a minimum 12% ABV; wines with a minimum 13% ABV can be labeled Superiore. The Superiore versions are often aged on the lees and in barrel, and they are riper and more full bodied. Sparkling, late-harvest, and passito versions are also authorized.

The island-wide Vermentino di Sardegna DOC requires a minimum of 85% Vermentino, and the wines tend to be fruitier and best for earlier consumption, although the diversity of soils and elevations throughout the island allows for a range of styles. Sparkling wines are also authorized and can be made at a range of sweetness levels, from brut nature to demi-sec.

Cannonau-Based Denominations

Sardinia’s most planted grape variety, Cannonau, is identical to Spain’s Garnacha and France’s Grenache. It likely arrived on the island with the Aragonese conquest in the 14^th century. There are many Cannonau biotypes throughout Sardinia, resulting from its mutation and adaptation on the island over centuries, and many producers prefer to use massal selection from very old vines for genetic diversity. Cannonau is productive and resistant to drought and heat, and it thrives on sandy and granitic soils.

Cannonau is grown throughout the island in the region-wide Cannonau di Sardegna DOC, which requires a minimum 85% of the grape variety, and it is made in various styles, from light and simple to structured and complex. Sardinia’s version of Grenache can be earthy, rustic, and spicy, with ripe fruit, full body, and high alcohol, but it can be pale in color because of its easy oxidation. Red, rosato, fortified, and passito wines are authorized.

Cannonau di Sardegna DOC includes three high-quality subzones. From north to south, they are Oliena (Nepente di Oliena), Jerzu, and Capo Ferrato. For red wines, a Riserva level requires a minimum aging of two years, with at least six months in wood. A large Classico subzone covers the entire Nuoro province (which absorbed the former Ogliastra province in 2016) in the east-central portion of the island and requires a higher minimum of 90% Cannonau as well as a minimum aging of two years, with at least 12 months in barrel.

Other Varieties and Regions of Sardinia

Another principal red grape of the island is Carignano, also a Spanish transplant that is well suited to Sardinia’s climate, as it is resistant to both drought and wind. It is concentrated in the Sulcis area, at the southwestern tip of the island, and on the island of Sant’Antioco, which is connected to southwestern Sardinia by a bridge. Carignano performs well in the sandy soils of this area, and there are many old, ungrafted, pre-phylloxera vines.

Carignano del Sulcis DOC requires a minimum of 85% Carignano. Red, rosato, novello, and passito versions can be produced. Red wines of Riserva level require a minimum 12.5% ABV, and Superiore wines must have a minimum 13% ABV; both require a minimum aging of two years, with at least six months in bottle. These wines, typically from old vines on sandy soils, are powerful, ripe, fleshy, and concentrated.

Carignano is genetically identical to Bovale Grande, which some believe is a separate Sardinian biotype or closely related variety. It is not the same, however, as Bovale Sardo, which some studies indicate is identical to the Spanish variety Graciano.

Another prominent red grape on the island is Monica, the name used for a group of unrelated varieties that make light-bodied, easy-drinking wines, with flavors of red berries and fresh herbs. Monica is typically a blending grape used to add freshness to Cannonau or the Bovale grapes, but it is increasingly prized for monovarietal examples in Monica di Sardegna DOC and other DOCs.

The white grape Nuragus shares its name with the prehistoric stone structures on the island. It was favored for its extreme drought resistance and, as recently as 1990, was the most abundant grape variety in Sardinia. When yields are too high, the wines are uninteresting, but quality is improving for these fresh, lightly aromatic, low-alcohol whites. Nuragus grows best in the marly calcareous clay soils near Sardinia’s capital city of Cagliari. Nuragus di Cagliari DOC requires a minimum of 85% Nuragus and allows still and frizzante wines, which can be dry or amabile.

The white grape Torbato is minimally planted but known through the bottlings of one producer, Sella e Mosca. It performs best in the chalky, marine soils called terre bianche around Alghero, in northwestern Sardinia, yielding fresh, light wines in both still and sparkling versions in Alghero DOC.

Nasco is one of Sardinia’s oldest grape varieties and is prized for its high quality. Its name comes from the Sardinian nuscu (musky), referring to the strong herbal aromatics of the wine. It is mostly found in the calcareous-marly hillsides near Cagliari. Dry, sweet, and fortified wines can be made in Nasco di Cagliari DOC, which requires a minimum of 95% Nasco. The sweet wines are the most interesting and complex.

Moscato Bianco, known as Moscadeddu locally, is used for sparkling, passito, fortified, and late-harvest wines in DOCs such as Moscato di Sorso-Sennori DOC and the island-wide Moscato di Sardegna DOC. Malvasia di Sardegna, which is identical to Sicily’s Malvasia di Lipari and Calabria’s Greco Bianco, is found in the sweet white, sparkling, and passito wines of Malvasia di Bosa DOC. The wines are more powerful and less aromatic than other Malvasias, and a Riserva level requires a minimum aging of two years, including one year in wood.

Vernaccia di Oristano is a white grape unique to Sardinia and unrelated to Italy’s other Vernaccias. It is grown near the central-western city of Oristano. It thrives in two soil types: gregori, which have low fertility and low limestone content and are found at higher altitudes, and bennaxi, the more fertile, alluvial soils at lower altitudes that are rich in loamy clay. Vernaccia di Oristano DOC wines are made in an oxidative style and can be dry or sweet and fortified or not. They are aged in a solera system of chestnut or oak barrels, which are not completely topped up, encouraging the best wines to develop and age under a layer of flor for a minimum of two years, or three years for Superiore and four years for Riserva. These rare wines can be beautifully complex, with flavors of almond paste, dried apricot, hazelnut, orange rind, fresh herbs, and white chocolate.

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Compiled by Michael Markarian (November 2023)

Edited by Stacy Ladenburger