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Burgundy (Bourgogne) is a holy grail for wine geeks: a region impossible to master, impenetrable to the casual observer, and endlessly fascinating.
A simple premise—red Burgundy is generally Pinot Noir and white Burgundy is generally Chardonnay—belies a maze of appellations, fractured vineyards, scores of variable producers, and erratic vintage swings. Just getting the right information can be a chore: the vignerons (winegrowers) of Burgundy are an insular lot, and will not readily impart their wisdom and experience to outsiders—and even they are rarely experts beyond the walls of their own domaines or the confines of their own communes. To new students of Burgundy: keep in mind that understanding this region is a lifelong pursuit. Burgundy's modern vineyards and wines are products of 2,000 years of winemaking history. Yet the capacity to both disenchant and overachieve remains inherent in every bottle. Burgundy can be a sensual pleasure unlike any other, but it is frequently an expensive disappointment. Despite—or perhaps due to—its mercurial nature, the wines of Burgundy enliven the imaginations of sommeliers and connoisseurs worldwide, and show great versatility at the table.
Winemaking in Burgundy is not a new phenomenon: archaeological evidence of production dates back to the late 1st century CE, following the Romans' conquest of Gaul. The first Burgundians—Germanic barbarian tribesmen—arrived in the 5th century as the Western Roman Empire was crumbling and embraced viticulture. But Europe plunged into dark ages after the fall of Rome, and the Catholic Church rose as a powerful political force, becoming a shepherd of culture—and