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Northern Italy is considered the financial and economic hub of the country, generally more industrialized than the agrarian south, with historic centers of wealth and influence, such as Milan and Venice. After the unification of most of the peninsula in 1861, Rome was designated as the capital, but Italy’s first leaders came from the north: King Vittorio Emanuele II was from Turin, and Italy’s first prime minister, Count Camillo Benso, from Barolo.
Northern Italy borders France, Switzerland, Austria, and Slovenia, and the area has a history of trade and cultural exchange with various European kingdoms and duchies. The rich cuisine tends toward heavier meats, butter, and cream, reflecting northern Italy’s history of wealth and French and Germanic influences—in contrast to the olive oil, pasta, and red sauce of the south.
Some parts of northern Italy did not become annexed to the country until the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire following World War I, and the regions across the north remain culturally and linguistically diverse. German, French, and local dialects are as likely as Italian to be heard on the streets and seen on signs. Three of Italy’s five autonomous regions—granted a greater degree of local governance by the Italian Constitution to help preserve regional and cultural identity—are in the north: Aosta Valley, Trentino-Alto Adige, and Friuli-Venezia Giulia.
Northern Italy’s diversity extends to its land and climate. The topography ranges from the high elevations of the Alps and Dolomites to the flat plains of the Po River valley, and from the rivers and glacial freshwater lakes to the coastline of the Ligurian and Adriatic Seas. Dramatic differences in elevation, temperature, and soil types lead to an exciting range of grape varieties and wine styles produced across the top of Italy’s boot.
Many of the key grape varieties of northern Italy—Pinot Grigio, Glera, Vermentino, Barbera, Nebbiolo, and several international ones—are covered in the Introduction to Italy Expert Guide. Below are additional grapes and families that are important to northern Italy, while others are discussed in the regional sections below.
Arneis: From the Piedmontese dialect meaning “rascal,” the name Arneis likely refers to the challenges the grape presents in the vineyard, or to its characteristic early ripening, which makes it the first grape sweet enough to attract birds—sparing the more expensive, later-ripening Nebbiolo often planted alongside it. Arneis has low and irregular yields and is sensitive to disease and pests. Its vines grow tall and erect like those of Nebbiolo, and it has also been called Nebbiolo Bianco and Barolo Bianco. Arneis has always had an association with producers more famous for their Nebbiolo; it was resurrected in the 1960s by winemakers including Vietti and Bruno Giacosa, and it became Italy’s most popular white wine in the 1980s largely because of Ceretto’s Blangé bottling.
Arneis has a round, creamy texture. The grape performs well in the sandy soils of Roero DOCG and needs to be harvested early to retain its acidity. Some producers blend wine from multiple pickings to ensure a range of acidity levels. Arneis oxidizes easily and requires care in the cellar for freshness to be retained.
Garganega: One of the oldest and most important white grapes of Veneto, Garganega is the principal grape of Soave and Gambellara. Despite being grown almost exclusively in Veneto, it is the 12th most planted grape in Italy. It is also one of Italy’s most ancient varieties and a parent of many others, including Trebbiano Toscano, Albana, Malvasia Bianca di Candia, and Catarratto. Garganega has many clones and biotypes, some of which have loosely packed bunches that are suitable for air-drying and sweet recioto wines.
Garganega is thick skinned and very late ripening, and it produces reliable and generous yields. Garganega can be a varietal wine in Soave and is also often blended with Trebbiano di Soave (Verdicchio) or Chardonnay. The sweet recioto wines based on Garganega are rich, honeyed, and floral, usually without any botrytis.
Ribolla Gialla: Ribolla wines have a long history of trade along the Adriatic, but, as with Malvasia, there is confusion around the many Ribollas. Historically, the name likely referred to a generic brand or blended wine rather than a grape variety, and its popularity spawned many imitators. Ribolla Gialla, believed to be of central European origin, is a high-quality and important grape grown primarily in Friuli Venezia Giulia; it has the name Rebula across the Slovenian border. It is not the same as the lesser-quality Ribolla Verde and is unrelated to Ribolla Nera (Schioppettino); Ribolla Spizade (Prosecco Lungo); Rèbola (Pignoletto) of Emilia-Romagna; and Robola of Cephalonia, Greece.
Gialla, Italian for “yellow,” refers to the deep yellow color of the berries. The highest-quality wines come from old vines planted on hillsides. In the glass, Ribolla Gialla has very high acidity and flavors of white pepper, lemon, and tangerine. It is made in a wide range of styles but is often associated with orange wines produced using extended skin contact and oxidative winemaking practices. Because of its high acidity, some winemakers are experimenting with sparkling Ribolla Gialla.
Timorasso: Once one of the most planted white grapes of Piedmont, Timorasso was nearly abandoned because of viticultural challenges. Its berries ripen unevenly, its thin skins make it susceptible to gray rot, and it is subject to coulure. It is very late ripening and can struggle to achieve full ripeness. Today, however, there is a Timorasso renaissance among quality producers. It is an ageworthy white, characterized by very high acidity, a rich and powerful body, and an intensely herbal and mineral character, exhibiting TDN-based flavors of petrol and kerosene, similar to those of some dry Rieslings.
Corvina: Found in Veneto and Lombardy, Corvina means “little raven,” a reference either to the dark color of the berries or to the birds’ attraction to the ripe grapes. It is best known as the principal grape in the blend for Amarone and other red wines from Valpolicella. Corvina is thick skinned with small berries, making it suitable for air-drying and the appassimento process. In the vineyard, it is vigorous, high yielding, and sensitive to botrytis and sunburn. Corvina brings elevated acidity, fine tannins, and flavors of red cherry, violets, and herbs to blends.
Corvina is an offspring of Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, a parent of Rondinella, and related to Oseleta and Marzemino. But it shares no relation with Corvinone, its frequent blending partner. Corvinone was given its name, meaning “big Corvina,” because it was once thought to be a Corvina clone with larger berries and bunches.
Croatina: Rarely seen on labels but widely planted across northern Italy, Croatina is usually in a supporting role, as a blending partner with a range of grapes, including Barbera, Nebbiolo, and Corvina. It is grown in several regions but is the top-planted grape (with 17% of plantings) in Lombardy and among the top 15 red grapes in Italy overall. It is confusingly called Bonarda in some regions but is not the same as other Bonarda-named grapes, such as Bonarda Piemontese or Argentina’s Bonarda. It is also called Nebbiolo di Gattinara and Spanna di Ghemme but should not be confused with the Nebbiolo (Spanna) found in Alto Piemonte.
The thick-skinned Croatina is an irregular producer, buds later, and is resistant to frost and powdery mildew. It succeeds best in clay soils, where it can achieve higher quality, with smaller bunches and more concentration. Croatina can lighten the sharp acidity of Barbera and add soft tannins and a round, creamy texture to Amarone wines. Some producers use shorter macerations and barrel aging to soften Croatina’s tannins.
Dolcetto: Meaning “little sweet one,” Dolcetto is the everyday wine of Piedmont, often overshadowed by the more famous Nebbiolo and Barbera. Although the wines are dry, the grapes are sweet and, historically, were often eaten as table grapes. Dolcetto is the earliest ripening of the three main Langhe red varieties and difficult to work with in both the vineyard and the cellar. It is sensitive to frost, storms, and cold temperatures and grows close to the ground, making picking difficult. It can also be reductive. Given these challenges, Dolcetto plantings have steadily decreased in recent years, as more vineyard space has been planted to Nebbiolo, and to Chardonnay and Pinot Nero for sparkling wines made in the traditional method (metodo classico). Dolcetto plantings decreased by 18% between 2000 and 2010.
Dolcetto yields medium-bodied wines with a purple hue that tend to be relatively low in acidity and high in tannin. They have “grapey” flavors, with notes of lavender, orange peel, and black tea. When harvested earlier, Dolcetto retains acidity and is more floral. The wines are usually monovarietal.
Dolcetto is called Dosset in the Piedmontese dialect and Ormeasco in Liguria. It is not the same as Douce Noire of Savoie (called Charbono in California and Bonarda in Argentina), though once believed to be identical. Although on the decline in Italy, Dolcetto is being grown in the United States, Australia, and other New World countries.
Schiava: Schiava, Italian for “slave,” references vines that were “enslaved” on trellises in ancient Rome, rather than supported by trees or other crops as other vines were. The Schiava group includes several similar but genetically unrelated varieties that are often blended and, when combined, represent the most planted grape in Alto Adige. The DOC regulations do not specify which Schiava variety must be used, so the wines are usually a blend of two or three of the main varieties.
Schiava Gentile, also called Schiava Piccola because of its small bunches, is the lightest bodied and most perfumed of the Schiava varieties, and it is especially prized for rosato. Schiava Grigia, referring to the gray bloom on its berries, is the most refined. Schiava Grossa, with large berries and bunches, has the most delicate aromas and is a parent of Kerner and Malvasia del Lazio. In addition to these three main Schiavas found in Alto Adige, Schiava Nera is found in Lombardy. The Schiava group is also known as Vernatsch in Alto Adige and Trollinger in Austria and Germany.
These wines are typically light colored and light bodied, with high acidity and fragrant strawberry, violet, and sweet almond flavors.
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Piedmont, or Piemonte in Italian, meaning “foot of the mountain,” is surrounded on three sides by the Alps and Apennines. The Po River valley extends to the east, with many tributaries of the Po River and lakes nestled in the foothills. Piedmont is the most mountainous region in Italy, with 43% of its land covered in mountains and another 30% in hills.
Piedmont’s climate is largely continental. The warm air from the Po River valley meets the humid air from the Mediterranean Sea, creating precipitation and fog. The central band of foothills is protected from the most extreme weather by the Alpine and Apennine ranges. The hilly terrain provides a wide range of slopes and aspects for grape ripening.
What is today Piedmont was originally settled by Celtic tribes and was part of the Cisalpine Gaul territory. The Taurini people likely dominated this area until their capital city, Taurasia, was destroyed by Hannibal during the march of his Carthaginian army in 218 BCE. The city was reestablished by the Romans in 25 BCE as Augusta Taurinorum, which is today Piedmont’s capital city of Turin.
The region was important during ancient Rome as a trade route with the Gallic provinces. In contrast to the Greeks and Etruscans, who used ceramic pottery and amphorae to store wine, the Gauls used barrels, and the Gallic influence helped facilitate the transport of wine beyond alpine areas. The Etruscan viticultural influence reached this area as well, particularly the maritata or alberate system of training vines high on trees or other live supports to provide protection from humidity.
In the Middle Ages, Piedmont was an important stronghold of the House of Savoy. The Holy Roman Empire awarded the House of Savoy ducal status in the 15th century, and the region’s role in commerce led to increased prosperity as well as exposure to new ideas of the European Enlightenment. The Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia, with its capital in Turin, was influential in the 19th-century campaign for Italian unification, with Vittorio Emanuele II, who was born in Piedmont, becoming the first king of Italy.
Piedmont has 18 DOCGs, the most of any Italian region, and 41 DOCs, tying with Tuscany for the most. Many of these denominations are overlapping, with multiple names referring to the same places, such as Alba, Asti, Acqui, and Monferrato. Perhaps owing to its cultural relationship with eastern France, Piedmont is often divided into many subzones and single-vineyard sites with fractured ownership. Piedmont has no IGT for less strictly controlled wines, although its large regional denominations, such as Piemonte DOC and Langhe DOC, are broad enough to allow for a wide range of wine styles as well as international varieties.
Piedmont’s wine production is at a very high quality level overall: nearly all (94%) of its wine is DOC or higher, the highest percentage of any Italian region, compared with the national average of 44%. About 60% of Piedmont’s production is red wine, but the region is known for high-quality examples of red, white, sparkling, and sweet wines. Its most planted grape varieties are Barbera (31%), Moscato Bianco (22%), Dolcetto (13%), and Nebbiolo (10%).
An ancient grape most likely originating in Lombardy or northern Piedmont, Nebbiolo has great clonal diversity, with at least 30 documented biotypes. It has adapted to different terroirs in northwestern Italy and is distinguished for its ability to reflect the sites in which it is grown.
Nebbiolo is believed to take its name from nebbia, the Italian word for “fog,” either because it is traditionally harvested in the late autumn, when thick fog engulfs the Langhe, or because of the fog-like bloom that appears on the dark berries. Synonyms for Nebbiolo date back centuries. Here are some of the most important biotypes and synonyms to know.
Chiavennasca: The name for Nebbiolo used in Lombardy’s Valtellina region and dating to 1595. Thought to come from ciù venasca in the local dialect, referring to a grape of great vigor.
Nebbiolo Lampia: The most common Nebbiolo and most dependable producer.
Nebbiolo Michet: A virused form of Lampia that causes the vine’s canes to fork, producing smaller berries, lower yields, and a higher concentration of aromas and flavors.
Nebbiolo Rosé: A separate but closely related variety once thought to be a clone of Nebbiolo. Prized for its aromatic perfume and pale color.
Picoutener/Picotendro: The French and Italian names for the smaller-bunched and darker-berried Nebbiolo in Valle d’Aosta and Carema.
Spanna: The local name for Nebbiolo in Ghemme, Gattinara, and other parts of Alto Piemonte, first documented here in 1466. It is possibly the grape Pliny the Elder referred to as Spionia or Spinea.
Located in the Cuneo province in the Langhe hills, on opposite sides of the city of Alba along the Tanaro River, Barolo DOCG and Barbaresco DOCG are two of the most respected wine regions in the world, renowned for their powerful, complex, ageworthy Nebbiolo wines.
The Celtic-Ligurian Statielli tribe settled in the Barolo area in the fifth century BCE. The Romans conquered the Statielli in the first century BCE and established Alba Pompeia, which is today modern Alba. There is documentation of Nebbiolo in this area since the Middle Ages. The wealthy Falletti family is credited with promoting Barolo wine in the courts of Napoleon Bonaparte in Paris and the House of Savoy in Turin—earning Barolo the nickname “the king of wines and the wine of kings.”
Nebbiolo from the Barolo region was historically known as a sweet wine. It would often stop fermenting in the cold Piedmont winters, refermenting in the spring to make a slightly sparkling wine. The first dry Barolo wines are often credited to either French enologist Louis Oudart or Italian General Paolo Francesco Staglieno in the 1840s. The first Barbaresco wine appeared in 1894; before that time, grapes grown in Barbaresco were likely sold to nearby Barolo houses.
In the Langhe, unlike many other Italian wine regions, a large number of small farmers owned tiny parcels of land (as compared with Tuscany, for example, which was dominated by wealthy landowners and sharecropping). After the French Revolution, Napoleon marched his army over the Alps, and Piedmont came under Napoleonic rule. Napoleon’s government confiscated and sold church property, ended primogeniture rights, and implemented reforms similar to those taking place in France. By the time Piedmont was once again ruled by the House of Savoy, there was a new class of landowners and entrepreneurs, with continued vineyard fragmentation as new generations inherited land.
With some exceptions, most small farmers and grapegrowers did not produce wine themselves but sold grapes to large négociant houses in Alba. They were hindered by the poverty in rural areas after World War II and a lack of accessible water. This began to change in the 1970s when several young grapegrowers, including Elio Altare and Enrico Scavino, traveled to Burgundy, searching for new ideas on cellar hygiene, vineyard management, and the production of fine wine.
In the decades that followed, two camps were sharply pitted against each another in what is known as the Barolo wars. The “traditionalists” generally favored long macerations in large, old barrels of chestnut or acacia that were often passed down for generations, using practices such as stem inclusion, open-vat fermentation, foot trodding, and no temperature control. The “modernists” sought to create more accessible and less aggressive wines that didn’t need decades to soften before they could be enjoyed. Through exposure to other regions, these winemakers introduced new practices into both the cellar and vineyard, most famously using new French barriques for aging, using rotary fermenters, and lowering yields to increase concentration and focus on physiological ripeness and tannin management.
This riper, more concentrated, approachable style was popular with the public and wine critics, but it was highly controversial. Green harvesting to reduce yields was an affront to farmers who had been focused on quantity and selling grapes to earn a living. Elio Altare famously took a chainsaw to his father’s old barrels in 1983 and, after being disowned by his father, bought new French barriques and eventually bought back vineyard land from his family. In neighboring Barbaresco, producers such as Angelo Gaja were also experimenting with green harvesting and new French barriques.
The Langhe is generally composed of marine sedimentary soils in alternating layers of calcareous marls and sandstone, with varied percentages of clay and sand. The soils of Barolo are typically defined by their ages. The oldest, from the Serravallian era (formerly called Helvetian), are found in the south and east of the denomination and were formed 11–13 million years ago. Soils from the Tortonian era, in the western part of the denomination, were formed 7–11 million years ago. The youngest soils, from the Messinian era, are in the far northwest and were formed 5–7 million years ago.
During these ages, there were several principal geological formations. The Formazione di Lequio consists of gray marl and light yellow sandstone and is found primarily in Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga d’Alba. The soils here are higher in calcium carbonate, restraining vigor and yielding wines that are more austere, powerful, and structured. The Marne di Sant’Agata Fossili formation is found primarily in the communes of Barolo and La Morra as well as in Barbaresco. This formation consists of bluish-gray marls and is higher in clay content, resulting in wines that are more perfumed, rounder, and more elegant. The Arenarie di Diano d’Alba formation is found primarily in Castiglione Falletto, where the wines occupy a middle ground between structure and elegance. The youngest formations consist of gypsum-sulfur and are higher in sand content. They are found in parts of La Morra, Verduno, and Cherasco and yield the softest and most approachable Barolos for early drinking. .
Today, the divisions have softened, and many producers use a blend of practices associated with the traditional and modern approaches. New barriques may be used in moderation or in combination with used, untoasted, or larger barrels. Large Slavonian casks may be changed every 10 or 15 years and may be smaller in size than those used in previous generations. Fermentation and maceration times are generally about 25 days, balancing short-term approachability with long-term aging capability, although some still prefer to extend aging. Cellar hygiene and improved vineyard management are the norm. Many producers use the historic Albeisa bottle, which has shoulders that fall between those of Burgundy and Bordeaux bottles.
Barolo and Barbaresco were among the first DOCs in Italy, established in 1966, and part of the first group to be elevated to DOCG status in 1980. Both require 100% Nebbiolo. Barbaresco requires a minimum of 9 months in barrel, with 26 months total aging for Normale and 50 months for Riserva. Barolo mandates a minimum of 18 months in barrel, with 38 months total aging for Normale and 62 months for Riserva, making the aging for Riserva bottlings among the longest required for any wine in the world.
The Langhe has marine sedimentary soils of calcareous marl and sandstone, with varying percentages of clay, sand, and calcium carbonate. Approximately 90% of Barolo DOCG is in the five core communes of Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, and Serralunga d’Alba, with small parts of the denomination in six other communes: Diano d’Alba, Novello, Verduno, Grinzane Cavour, Cherasco, and Roddi. Barbaresco DOCG primarily includes the three communes of Barbaresco, Neive, and Treiso, with a smaller piece in a fourth, San Rocco Seno d’Elvio.
Barolo is the larger of the two denominations, with 1,980 hectares (4,900 acres) of vineyard area (2019), compared with Barbaresco’s 680 hectares (1,670 acres). The southeastern part of the Barolo denomination is cooler, as the narrow Serralunga valley funnels cool air from the Apennines, and the warmest crus are situated on south-facing ridges. The northwestern part is warmer, with a low-lying amphitheater in the village of Barolo and the highest altitudes in the commune of La Morra. The slopes are generally steep, with hand-harvesting the norm and erosion a constant issue for growers. Barbaresco’s hills generally have gentler slopes and are lower lying, with the exception of the higher-altitude commune of Treiso. Barbaresco is closer to the Tanaro River and receives more of its moderating influence, resulting in a warmer climate where grapes are generally harvested two weeks earlier than in Barolo. In both denominations, classic Guyot training is the norm; with Nebbiolo, longer canes with more buds are needed for production, as the buds closest to the plant are typically sterile.
The Langhe has long designated exceptional specific vineyard sites, or crus. The oldest surviving bottle from the region is simply labeled Cannubi 1752. Nebbiolo, early budding and very late ripening, was typically planted on hillside vineyard plots where the snow melted first, indicating to growers that these areas would receive the most sun. The sites called sorí, Piedmontese dialect for a hillside vineyard with full southern exposure, were most desirable.
In the 1970s, Renato Ratti produced the first detailed maps of Barolo and Barbaresco. As the regions’ popularity soared and Nebbiolo plantings expanded to some less-desirable sites, efforts were initiated to codify the concepts of crus or subzones. In 2007, Barbaresco unveiled its menzioni geografiche aggiuntive (MGAs), or “additional geographical mentions,” now totaling 66. Barolo unveiled its 181 MGAs in 2010, including 170 geographic sites and 11 commune designations. (Interestingly, Barbaresco does not include designations for its four communes.) This dizzying array of named sites, some of which never appear on labels, can be confusing. Further, fantasy names are still allowed, as are vigna designations of specific vineyard names found within the larger subzones. (To use the vigna designation in either denomination, yields must be lower and vineyards must be at least seven years old.) Find lists of Barolo’s MGAs and Barbaresco's MGAs in the Compendium.
Because the designation of the MGAs was also left up to the individual communes, there is a lack of consistency. Some remained faithful to the historic boundaries of famous crus, while others expanded them to huge proportions, and there have been contested legal battles over boundaries. Some MGAs are monopoles, such as Francia, owned by Giacomo Conterno, and Falletto, owned by Bruno Giacosa.
In modifying the DOCG disciplinari to allow MGAs, Barbaresco and Barolo also took the opportunity to prohibit plantings on valley floors and areas with northern exposures. Barolo vineyards must be planted between 170 and 540 meters (560 and 1,770 feet); there is no minimum altitude for Barbaresco vineyards, but they cannot be higher than 550 meters (1,800 feet). Expansion and new plantings are also limited in both denominations. The measures aim to ensure that Nebbiolo is planted on the most appropriate hillsides, with adequate sun exposure, limiting soil erosion and other challenges in the vineyard.
Classic Barolo and Barbaresco wines are firmly structured, with elevated tannins and acidity, and complex flavors, such as tart red fruit, tar, and roses. Barbaresco can be slightly softer than Barolo, owing to its closer proximity to the Tanaro River, as well as soils that tend to be more fertile and sandier, with less calcium carbonate. Even so, these lines are blurring, and the differences in both denominations vary by commune, vineyard, and producer style.
Also in the Cuneo province but north of the Langhe, Roero DOCG is on the left bank of the Tanaro River. The climate is semiarid and slightly warmer, and the region is farther inland. Harvest usually takes place one or two weeks earlier than in Barolo. The Roero is marked by le rocche, steep sandy cliffs formed by slow erosion from the Tanaro River. The soils here are sandier compared with those of the Langhe and much lower in calcium carbonate.
Roero’s red wines must be a minimum of 95% Nebbiolo, while the denomination also allows white and sparkling wines of a minimum 95% Arneis. The red wines require shorter aging than Barolo and Barbaresco—20 months and 32 months for Normale and Riserva, respectively, including 6 months in barrel. White wines must be aged a minimum of 4 months for Normale and 16 months for Riserva. Roero has a vigna designation for single-vineyard wines with lower mandated yields, and there are 153 MGAs, including the 19 village designations. Arneis thrives in Roero, and several Barolo and Barbaresco producers bottle a white wine from this region. Though rare, sparkling versions are authorized in a range of sweetness levels.
Just east of Roero, extending into the Asti province, is Terre Alfieri DOCG, awarded in 2020, with just 40 hectares (100 acres) of vineyards. Its rules are similar to Roero’s, making these the only two Piedmont DOCGs that produce both red and white wine. Terre Alfieri requires a minimum of 85% for both Nebbiolo-based reds and Arneis-based whites, with superiore, riserva, and vigna designations.
Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC is a larger denomination covering much of the Roero and Langhe areas. Wines must be 100% Nebbiolo and can be made into still red, sparkling red, or sparkling rosato.
Piedmont has five denominations dedicated to Barbera, many of them overlapping, throughout the Langhe, Asti, and Monferrato areas. Barbera is the most planted grape variety in Piedmont (31% of plantings), and although it is found in other regions of Italy, it most likely originated in the Monferrato province of Alessandria.
Barbera is generally characterized by its deep color, high acidity, and very low tannins. It is vigorous and can produce quality wine at relatively high yields. Some producers argue that Barbera needs to have high alcohol to express its complexity, and bottlings of 15% ABV are not uncommon. Barbera is drought resistant and favors heat and warmer sites, such as those in Asti. Vintages that are challenging for Nebbiolo (such as 2003 and 2011) can yield excellent Barbera.
Barbera is subject to a range of stylistic interpretations and expresses itself differently depending on the site. Grown in sandier soils, the wine can have higher acidity, lower alcohol and tannin, and deeper color. Grown in soils with more clay, the converse is true. The grape’s stylistic diversity is exacerbated by the very large sizes of the Barbera denominations. Barbera d’Asti DOCG covers about 200,000 hectares (500,000 acres) of land, across more than 160 communes in the provinces of Asti and Alessandria.
Barbera d’Asti DOCG requires a minimum of 90% Barbera, and the remainder can be Dolcetto, Freisa, and/or Grignolino. The wines must be aged four months before release. To qualify as Superiore, the wines must be aged a total of 14 months, including at least 6 months in oak. There are two official subzones, Tinella and Colli Astiani, both south of the Tanaro River. Superiore with the addition of either subzone requires 24 months total aging, including 6 months each in barrel and bottle.
Nizza DOCG, formerly a subzone of Barbera d’Asti, was elevated to its own denomination in 2014. Its wines come from 18 communes, and there is a prevalence of old vines of 50 years or more in this district. Unlike the other denominations, Nizza requires 100% Barbera. Nizza wines must be aged at least 18 months, with a minimum of 6 months in barrel. The Riserva level requires 30 months total aging, with at least 12 months in wood. Nizza has diverse soils, with the northern part of the zone characterized by sandy and silty soils and the southern part by marl and sandstone.
Like Barbera d’Asti, Barbera del Monferrato DOC is a large area in the Asti and Alessandria provinces. It requires a minimum of 85% Barbera and has no aging requirements, generally reserved for lighter, fruitier, youthful Barberas that can even be frizzante. Its superiore designation was elevated in 2008 to become the separate Barbera del Monferrato Superiore DOCG, requiring a higher minimum alcohol as well as a minimum of 14 months total aging, including 6 months in barrel. There is overlap between Barbera del Monferrato, Barbera d’Asti, and Nizza, giving producers labeling options.
Barbera d’Alba DOC, in the Cuneo province, overlaps the more famous Langhe denominations of Barolo and Barbaresco. It benefits from the association with the name Alba but also suffers, because the best sites in this area are often planted to Nebbiolo, not Barbera. The DOC requires a minimum of 85% Barbera, with the remainder Nebbiolo. The Superiore designation requires a minimum aging of 12 months, with at least 4 months in wood. Barbera d’Alba wines tends to be richer, rounder, and fleshier than those from Asti.
Although its plantings are declining, Dolcetto has a long history in southern Piedmont, and there are seven Piedmontese denominations dedicated to the grape. All but one require 100% Dolcetto.
Dogliani DOCG, south of Barolo, extends to the south of the regional Langhe DOC. Dolcetto has been planted in some of the best vineyard sites here. It must be aged for a minimum of 12 months. A Superiore designation requires a higher minimum alcohol of 13% ABV, compared with 12% for Normale. Dogliani has vigna designations as well as 76 MGAs, including 21 commune names. It became a DOC in 1974 and a DOCG in 2005, and it absorbed the former Dolcetto delle Langhe Monregalesi DOC in 2011.
Dolcetto d’Alba DOC covers 25 communes surrounding the town of Alba, overlapping the Barolo and Barbaresco areas. Superiore wines require a slightly higher minimum alcohol and at least 12 months of aging. Diano d’Alba DOCG, also known as Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba DOCG, is based in the commune of the same name on the northeastern edge of Barolo. In 1974, Diano d’Alba was one of the first denominations in Italy to undertake a serious study and mapping of its geological subzones and terroirs; it now has 75 MGAs, which require a slightly higher aging minimum. The Normale wines must be aged 2–3 months, while the Superiore requires a minimum of 10 months.
Moving east, Dolcetto d’Asti DOC, in the Asti province, and Dolcetto d’Acqui DOC, in the Alessandria province, have no minimum aging for Normale but require a minimum of 12 months for the Superiore designation, which also requires a slightly higher minimum alcohol of 12.5% ABV. Farther east in the Alessandria province, Dolcetto di Ovada DOC requires a minimum of 97% Dolcetto and has no minimum aging requirement. The overlapping Ovada DOCG was formerly part of Dolcetto di Ovada but was elevated to a separate DOCG in 2008. It requires 100% Dolcetto and a minimum aging of 12 months for Normale wines, 20 months with a vigna designation, and 24 months for Riserva.
In Piedmont, sparkling wines are produced in a wide range of styles. The region’s largest denomination in total production volume is Asti DOCG, with 765,000 hectoliters, or 8.5 million cases, in 2021. Of the two principal styles, the fully sparkling Asti, also called Asti spumante, accounted for 59% of production, and the semi-sparkling, or frizzante, Moscato d’Asti accounted for 41%. The large Asti DOCG spans 52 communes not only in the province of Asti but also in Cuneo and Alessandria. It requires a minimum of 97% Moscato Bianco, known outside Italy as Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, which has been planted here since at least the 14th century.
Unlike the tank method (also known as the Charmat method or the metodo Martinotti) and the traditional method, both of which use the fermentation of a still wine followed by a second fermentation into sparkling wine, the Asti method has a single fermentation phase. The grape must is chilled and stored at low temperatures to prevent fermentation from starting. It is then used in batches as needed, warmed up in autoclaves to ferment and create its sparkle at the same time. The fermentation is stopped when the desired alcohol and sweetness levels are reached, allowing for different styles.
Asti spumante is typically between 4.5 and 5 atmospheres of pressure, and the traditional muselet wire cage and cork are used for fully sparkling wines. The minimum alcohol is 6% ABV. Prior to 2017, all Asti spumante was required to be dolce, but today all sweetness levels, including secco, are permitted, and there is no maximum alcohol requirement. Traditional method versions are rare but authorized with a minimum of nine months on the lees.
Moscato d’Asti is typically regarded as higher quality, and the better selection of grapes is reserved for this frizzante version. It cannot exceed 2.5 atmospheres of pressure and is typically topped with a regular cork or Stelvin closure. The alcohol must be between 4.5% and 6.5% ABV, and it tends to be sweeter, requiring a minimum of 4.5% potential alcohol, or about 80 grams of residual sugar per liter. Vendemmia tardiva versions are also authorized, requiring a minimum of 11% acquired alcohol and at least one year of aging.
There are currently three subzones of Asti DOCG, the most famous of which is Canelli. The wines of the Canelli subzone must be 100% Moscato Bianco and in the Moscato d’Asti style only. A Canelli DOCG has been approved locally and is awaiting final approval from the European Union. The other two subzones, Strevi and Santa Vittoria d’Alba, are also authorized for the Moscato d’Asti style and, like Canelli, require a higher potential alcohol and lower maximum yields. Santa Vittoria d’Alba has the additional category of vendemmia tardiva, which requires a longer minimum aging of two years.
One of Moscato Bianco’s many offspring is the highly aromatic red grape Brachetto, which is featured in the wines of Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG. The DOCG is centered around the town of Acqui Terme, in the Alessandria province. The wines can be made in still, sparkling, and passito styles, all of which require a minimum 97% Brachetto. The off-dry sparkling red wines have boosted the variety’s popularity and helped it survive. Brachetto d’Acqui is typically frizzante and light in alcohol, with residual sugar and flavors of candied strawberries and roses. A less sweet rosato version is also authorized, but production is minimal.
Although Italy’s first traditional method sparkling wine originated in Piedmont, more modern efforts took hold in the 1990s when producers planted experimental vineyards of Pinot Nero and Chardonnay in an effort to distinguish a Piedmontese sparkling wine from the sweeter, aromatic styles based on Moscato and Brachetto. Alta Langa DOCG, awarded in 2011, after becoming a DOC in 2002, is dedicated to traditional method sparkling wines made from a minimum of 90% Pinot Nero and/or Chardonnay, with the balance from other nonaromatic grape varieties.
Alta Langa DOCG wines must be made in the traditional method and vintage dated. They can be white or rosato, range from zero dosage to extra dry, and require a minimum 30 months of aging, or 36 months for the Riserva level. All vineyard plantings must be 250 meters (820 feet) above sea level or higher. While Alta Langa can be made in 146 communes, only 180 hectares (450 acres) are currently planted.
Southern Piedmont has an array of native grape varieties and denominations. Gavi, based on the white grape Cortese, was one of the most famous wines of Italy in the 1960s and 1970s but diminished in popularity when the market was flooded with inexpensive, neutral white wine. Today Gavi is reemerging, as young producers are focused on quality and lower yields. Gavi DOCG, also called Cortese di Gavi DOCG, must be 100% Cortese and can be still or sparkling.
Cortese is nonaromatic and very high in acidity. The Gavi area is cool, rainy, and close to the Ligurian coast. The best quality expressions are labeled Gavi di Gavi or Gavi di Tassarolo, coming from those two communes, or from the frazione of Rovereto within Gavi, which is known for especially powerful and concentrated wines. The chalky soils around the town of Gavi help produce more structured and ageworthy wines.
The white grape Timorasso was saved from the brink of extinction in the 1980s, primarily thanks to Walter Massa, and plantings have dramatically increased in recent years. Many compare its very high acidity, rich and powerful body, and intensely herbal and mineral character to those of a dry German Riesling. Found primarily in Colli Tortonesi DOC, in the Alessandria province, the best examples are those labeled Derthona, the ancient Roman name for the town of Tortona. Colli Tortonesi DOC allows a range of styles and varieties and has two recognized subzones: Monleale (for Barbera only) and Terre di Libarna.
Nascetta, also called Anascetta or Nas-cëtta, is another white grape saved from the brink of extinction, credited mainly to the efforts of the Barolo producer Elvio Cogno. Only about 21 hectares (52 acres) are currently planted. Nascetta is a semiaromatic grape with an herbal and saline character. Though it is challenging in the vineyard, many producers see great promise in the variety. Wines labeled Langhe DOC must be a minimum of 85% Nascetta, like other varietal wines; but with the subzone Nascetta (or Nas-cëtta) del Comune di Novello, the still or passito wines must be 100% Nascetta and exclusively grown in the classic Novello zone.
Beyond the big three of Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Dolcetto, there are several other important red grapes in Piedmont. Like its parent Nebbiolo, Freisa is light in color and high in acidity and tannin. It has a rustic character and, true to its name, flavors of strawberries along with roses, violets, and tobacco. Freisa was historically a key part of Piedmont blends but today occupies only about 2% of Piedmont’s vineyard area. Freisa di Chieri DOC, in the Torino province, requires a minimum of 90% Freisa, while Freisa d’Asti DOC requires 100% Freisa, both allowing still and sparkling wines in a range of sweetness levels.
Grignolino is a red variety with three or more pips per berry, giving its wines high tannin even by Piedmont standards. Grignolino is typically a very pale red or pink color and light in body and alcohol, but it has powerful acidity and structure, along with delicate fragrance. Grignolino d’Asti DOC, with sandier soils, and Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese DOC, with more calcareous clay, both require a minimum of 90% Grignolino.
Ruchè is one of the few examples of an aromatic red variety. It used to be made into sweet wines or added to Piedmont blends to enhance the perfume, but, in the 1960s, a local parish priest, Don Giacomo Cauda, saw its potential for making dry wines. He resurrected a church vineyard and made Vigna del Parroco (“the priest’s vineyard”), long considered a top Ruchè bottling. Most Ruchè production is centered around the commune of Castagnole Monferrato, in the province of Asti. Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG requires a minimum of 90% Ruchè, with the remaining balance from Barbera and/or Brachetto.
Pelaverga is a name used for two distinct Piedmont red grapes. Pelaverga Grosso is found near the towns of Saluzzo and Chieri. It is used in varietal wines and red blends in Colline Saluzzesi DOC and Collina Torinese DOC, as well as rosato wines in the former. The variety receiving more recent attention is Pelaverga Piccolo, which is grown primarily around the communes of Verduno and Roddi. It makes up a minimum of 85% of Verduno Pelaverga DOC. It is a light-colored red with freshness, high acidity, and herbal flavors. Currently 19 hectares (47 acres) are planted.
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Compiled by Michael Markarian (June 2023)
Edited by Stacy Ladenburger